| Sep 15, 2017 - 5:34 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #1093063 · Replies: 1 · Views: 868 |
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Enthusiast  Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline 
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I'm so glad this site is still going!  My gave up my '97 GT a while back after a decade of good times together, came across some odds and ends. Original rear strut covers, and foot rest https://ibb.co/idHQuQ I'll take $10 for all of them, just to cover the shipping |
| May 30, 2009 - 1:05 AM | Forum: Off Topic · Post Preview: #776653 · Replies: 0 · Views: 990 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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I just ran across this beast, I know they dont come up for sale too often so i thought i'd alert the community http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/1194024426.html |
| Jan 7, 2009 - 8:29 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #745829 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,452 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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ENGINE SOLD sorry guys, just helped load it in the back of a van. Its going into and MR2, hes gonna keep me in touch thanks for all the feedback |
| Jan 7, 2009 - 7:42 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #745815 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,452 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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i kno right, if this guy doesnt show its pretty much yours joe |
| Jan 7, 2009 - 7:09 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #745807 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,452 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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some guy from Arlington called and said he'll be here in 15min with $300 cash, not a 6GC member :-/ we'll see.. |
| Jan 7, 2009 - 6:15 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #745794 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,452 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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thanks im sorry to see my baby go! Due to chaotic number of calls in the past ten minutes, im adding some rules 1. no one can come between 1am and 7am tomorrow, i need sleep! 2. if two or more people show up show up at the same time, the bidding starts at five dollars 3. make sure if you live far away i get your name and number to call you back if someone scoops it up before you get here. |
| Jan 7, 2009 - 5:14 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #745778 · Replies: 16 · Views: 3,452 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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I have some very old for sale posting on here but I'm not going to go find it. I am moving out on Friday and this engine must go. The motor also just went up for sale rather cheap on craigslist and im already getting calls. Heres the deal. I want to see this engine go to another celica enthusiast that will give it a good home. If you are an active member on this site, and you want the motor.. its FREE But you MUST COME PICK IT UP, and soon First come first serve. YES the motor is in sound running condition NO I will not ship it under any circumstances! Its a gift to the community, im going to want to see pictures of your car, your plans for it, and I gotta see your profile in here :-) Im in Northern Viriginia call the cell 571-214-8236 if you are truly interested.   |
| Oct 12, 2008 - 6:44 PM | Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #718925 · Replies: 6 · Views: 2,205 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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Hey guys So when Im driving straight, my steering wheel likes to be slightly cocked to the left. Its annoying. I just did an alignment and everything is in spec, all the tires are good and balanced and have the same pressure. I dont think the Ujoints have ever been replaced, but i dont think its them, the steering doesnt really feel loose or anything. Brake rotors and pads are all new and in great shape. Maybe it is the wheel bearings? Also my rear sway bar links are bent outta shape, i guess i could be that. |
| Aug 6, 2008 - 12:28 AM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #699535 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,537 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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BUMP lol, how bout i throw in a Weber too, grill up some burgers and dogs while you swap! Someone throw out an offer, i may let it go for less. Shipping is from 22308 |
| Aug 3, 2008 - 8:27 PM | Forum: Buying/Selling · Post Preview: #698870 · Replies: 2 · Views: 1,537 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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This is the 185hp 3S-GE (w/o beams) 2.0L out of a '94+ celica or mr2. Iron block, and aluminum head designed by Yamaha. The N/A series 3S features a resonance tuned intake (ACIS) and a 4-1 header right from the factory. This motor was running as of spring 2007, with less than 40,000 miles. It has the alternator, full wire harness with sensors, and header. There is no ecu, A/C compressor, or P/S pump (though i think its the same as 5S). Im also throwing in the Toyota technician's ST202 repair manual, straight from the UK. It been an invaluable tool. I got this motor off a friend cheaply because he was moving, he paid more than a grand. It pains me, but I dont have the time or money to swap it into my daily driver and make it OBDII emissions legal. Im selling the motor for $800 + shipping OBO. I'll even throw in the charcoal |
| Jun 4, 2008 - 10:29 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #680188 · Replies: 3 · Views: 1,457 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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I think ive read the sound mostly comes from the catalytic converter just cooling down. After a hard drive its more noticeable from my car. |
| Jun 4, 2008 - 10:19 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #680172 · Replies: 5 · Views: 2,134 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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I have that kit, but i ordered mine straight from centerforce. Its decent; pedal feel is the same, and it engages smooth as butter. Yes our cars have throwout bearings, you dont need to buy the centerforce bearing just any one thats made for a 5sfe celica, they are transmission specific |
| May 15, 2008 - 9:31 AM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #673834 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1,373 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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So i was under the car yesterday, investigating some steering slop (which just needed some bolt tightening). I know when youve got the car off and and you put it in gear, you can turn one front wheel one way the other turns the opposite direction, open diff is all good and well. What about when i turn boths wheels the same way.. theres a couple degrees of rotation each way before they lock. Theres that metal tapping metal sound, like "kirsshh." Is that i guess just the dogteeth in the tranny? Im only concerned because i replaced my clutch on my own recently, and i want to kno theres not soemthing loose in there. |
| May 15, 2008 - 9:12 AM | Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #673831 · Replies: 46 · Views: 9,484 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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Our cars do seem to have an unusual amount of space from radiator to firewall, gotta keep the dream alive! |
| May 11, 2008 - 3:47 AM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #672326 · Replies: 21 · Views: 3,923 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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That crossmember is a pain! A trick i used when getting mine back in: those bolts on the rear mount are just pressed into their holes, if you set it against the ground and tap the bolts with a hammer they will pop up out of position so you have more room to work with. They will set back in just fine when you tighten everything down. Also, be sure to lube up the outer surfaces of the poly inserts with some axle grease so you can maneuver the mount easily in the bracket. |
| Apr 26, 2008 - 7:01 PM | Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #668482 · Replies: 77 · Views: 9,672 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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great reading material Tech article from Pop. hot rod mag the brake bible i don't know how legit this author is, but its interesting sry for my previous harsh response The brake's only purpose is to convert kinetic energy into thermal energy and dissipating it. When your brakes are warm before stopping, its just that much less energy they're capable of removing. The disk can only handle so much heat at a time, and then you feel brake fade. Back in the day, bake pads had resin in them that would vaporize when they were extremely hot, it could be trapped between the pad and the disk and limit friction. Cross drilling gave the gas a place to go, also lightened and weakened the disk Now days, pads aren't made like that, no gases, but they do transfer heat to the caliper now, and like Jason said, this causes boiling brake fluid, which decreases hydraulic pressure. brake fade. Either way, heat is the enemy And your right jason, F1 brake disks and pads are made of carbon, which... ironically.. grips harder the hotter it gets  |
| Apr 25, 2008 - 6:36 PM | Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #668231 · Replies: 77 · Views: 9,672 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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QUOTE(playr158 @ Apr 25, 2008 - 9:39 AM) [snapback]668012[/snapback]  at last 2 postingsB-R-A-K-E-S are different than clutches. reducing the surface area of the disk is not going to give you more bite at fewer places. it gives you less braking power in less places. That and I'm really going to assume you don't know clutch theory and it doesn't apply to braking. colder rotors = bad. BRAKING power works off of heat + friction. Drilling is PURELY ASCETIC there is no functional benefit from them, Porsche and Benz already said they do it for "style". as well as where you live has ZERO to do with the type of BRAKE pads you need. CITY driving has to deal with INITIAL BITE of your brake pad. This is an issue that comes down to COMPOUND construction. You don't need "performance" BRAKEs to drive there, you need to not follow so close to people/drive slower in traffic. but this is now a dead horse. Do your research on B-R-A-K-E-S and you will learn about how they work and what is effective. (Thus I mean research from scholarly documentation, not ricerRus.com ) here is a shot of our race car (front 3 series 4 door) @ the track http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6965/85sigiq4.jpg look closely, solid rotors  much faster than any swap here and endures much more braking demands.ok ok the clutch comparison was sketchy i agree, i was just thinkin "ehh friction material.. spinning metal disk.. kinda close!" They have similar jobs, just brakes take far more abuse. playr ur right i didnt research brakes at all, i was just throwin **** out there, but now ive researched, touche. This is a great article http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf10312.htm and heres some math http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Dri...isk_Brakes.html "braking power works off heat"???? Im going to save you some face and let you google the word "brake fade" before posting again so if you read the articles turns out everyone is right  1) cross drill and slotted cool faster, great for racing (porsche and benz do it for style cause you dont race them but they are SPORTS CARS) 2) grip is dependent almost entirly on pads and rotor diameter 3) rotors crack because of ****ty metallurgy (bad casting), so buy expensive ones |
| Apr 25, 2008 - 8:53 AM | Forum: Suspension/Handling/Braking · Post Preview: #668005 · Replies: 77 · Views: 9,672 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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Sorry if im beating a dead horse  , but i am in the market for new front rotors too, so ive to throw in my 2 centsIt seems the big gripe about drilled and slotted rotors is that they decrease the frictional surface area for the pads to make contact with. Isn’t that the same concept as those four and six puck clutch disks? By limiting the surface area you greatly increase the clamping force at four or six points, while sacrificing lifespan of the friction material and smooth engagement. So Drilled and/or Slotted = lots of bite but short lived pads Also, holes and slots increase surface area of the rotor as a whole, therefore it must cool faster than a standard rotor. whooo knooowws |
| Apr 14, 2008 - 12:17 AM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #664303 · Replies: 4 · Views: 2,578 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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ive actually had E3 plugs in my car for about a year now i took two of them out to check on them the other day and they are still in great shape. Ive never used anything fancy before like iridium, or platinum plugs, but i noticed when i put these in i had better startups and smoother idle. You dont have to gap them, so right off the bat i think they're great! Any plug that can make a spark will do the job. E3 use the same concept as side gapping technique to make power, and its outrageously more reliable. |
| Apr 1, 2008 - 2:47 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #660541 · Replies: 9 · Views: 2,386 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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sure enough! A couple hard jerks with a pry bar between that first knuckle and the differential casing and it finally popped out thanks guys |
| Mar 31, 2008 - 12:43 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #660082 · Replies: 9 · Views: 2,386 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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 Do i want to pry underneath that metal ring? It looks important, its a soft metal and you can see i already bent it up a bit already. |
| Mar 31, 2008 - 10:43 AM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #660042 · Replies: 9 · Views: 2,386 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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Ive got the tranny out of the car right now, because im replacing the clutch (centerforce stage 1, comes on wednesday) The passenger side axle popped right out of the differential no problem. But the driver side axle is STILL on there! I had to pull the transmission with it still attached. Brute force wont bring it free, is there some clip on there? some magic spell maybe? yaaarg! |
| Mar 27, 2008 - 2:10 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #658707 · Replies: 34 · Views: 7,496 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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thank you penkka for bringing some LHD st202 representation to 6GC! i dont think enough people noticed that from ur engine pic. |
| Mar 24, 2008 - 9:51 AM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #657268 · Replies: 34 · Views: 7,496 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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Yea the OBD-II is a bunch of exta sensors stuck on the engines after 1996 to make sure we dont mess with any of the emissions stuff here in the US. I guess you SS-II guys dont have any of that? they dont plug ya into a comptuer to see if you are running clean? 6G96GT i say if you dont have emssions testing in NH, you should go for it, the 2nd and 3rd gen have loads of potential for NA power and are a third the cost of a Beams But if you do have emissions inspection, just forget about it if youve got a '96. It will be more headache and money than its worth, trust me ive been researchin the swap for my car for months now. |
| Mar 10, 2008 - 12:08 PM | Forum: Engine/Transmission/Maintenance · Post Preview: #651433 · Replies: 6 · Views: 2,450 |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 22, '07 From alexandria, VA Currently Offline
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QUOTE(Kwanza26 @ Mar 7, 2008 - 7:52 PM) [snapback]650491[/snapback] The MOST MAJOR IMPORTANT THING!!! Piston speed. Good call kwanza, lol i definitly should have mentioned that, piston speed creates a complete barrier in terms of tweaking the redline. Guess thats why you hear about these high horsepower Formula one engines with a nice wide bore, but a rediculously short stroke. Maybe we need to look to the old toytota R series engines, and see how they coaxed horsepower out of them. The blocks have a little more displacement, but they suffer from the same 90mm of stroke that the 5S does, and were run for many succesful years of circiut racing in the late 80s in the old celicas. Granted they were truck engines, and the bottem assembly was bulletproof. http://www.toysport.com/Technical%20Inform..._tech_notes.htm |
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