6G Celicas Forums

Hi Chacha thanks for the info if you have got some happy snaps of yours that would be awesome.

I wanted that almost draggin on the floor look as my car isn't lowered, there are other holes on the flaps so mabe i'll try reporsitioning

i guess your right but i am being greedy and want both

if i can fabricate a bracket to lower them it will look the muts nuts

ok i've fitted them and they look well ok but not quite the dangling low rally look i was hoping for

Front Left


Rear Left


Front Right


Rear Right


Here is the rest of the pix

i'm thinking of fabricating something that the flaps can attach to that can be attached to the arch lower down but will see how it wil goes

Hi Guys,

I have a set of TRD mudflaps that i want to fit to my 6GC but where i have the TRD kit fitted they dont sit as i expected.

The TRD logo's on the flaps sit's quite high up almost obsured by the kit.

I was wondering if any one had already done this and if so had pictures of that it looks like?

Thanks

You guys are bang on the money as i have a set of TRD skirts to go on wanted to get these on first then the skirts.

The pictures don't do it justice, need to get a better camera first

I bought an undercar LED kit last year but only got round to fitting them recently just thought i'd share the results:



It has multiple flash programs:
Flash pattern Videos

Its hopefully the start of a bigger project, in the end i want the arches lit so there is a continuous blue light all round

Totally Amazing hats of to you guys the end results are amazing

Good skillz man, i like your work keep it up and keep us posted

I would trace the wire see where it goes and check the shething hasn't crack and the wire is touching the body work. is it possible it got nicked/pinched or trapped when the engine was changed?

It sound like the wire making a circuit somewhere in your car and the extension piece you are putting in is becoming the fuse so to speak and burning out.

I also agree with what the others have said about gauge's of wire.

Hope you get it sorted buddy

i'm still using 2 12"s that i got in my early 20's







More bass is great but then brings more rattles = not so great and they certainly add lots of weight

Here's my smiley grill



Standard Celica SR Grill (UK limited edition)

Hi nathan76, nice looking mota very tidy

The only thing with SSS is there are 3 major components figure of 8, drop links and banana arm if one of these needs replacing you really should do all four corners and is about £1000 job if you do the work your self. Get your self on CCUK and check out wiki pages packed full of useful info

Mine look just like your when i bought it


And just over a year later with GT4 spoiler and facelift bumper and fogs


TRD kit on the way

Just read the post from start to finish and it was like an orgasmic roller coaster for my eyes, i love the work you have done. An unbelievable level of effort and attention to detail with zero compromise

Your partner is one very lucky lady

Hi Spider77

Check out this Wiki entry for the CCUK site loads of us have done it me included.

It does require a positive feed from the front to the boot if you don't already have one set up its a simple job

Hope it helps

hope i'm not throwing the cat amongst the pigeons but i thought that the "running the positive feed next to the RCA's cause a whine" was a myth? Spent a lot of time reading talk audio forum the alternator whine is a common question and every time the positive/RCS thing is mentioned they say not.

Most faults are cured by one of the following

• Improving the grounding in the engine bay refered to as The BIG 3
• Making sure you have a good grounding spot for you amps i.e. paint sanded off, bolts connects to the chasis and not a panel
• The gauge of negative feed needs to be equal to the positive feed both from battery to chassis and from chassis to amps
• Finally running a direct negative feed from the battery to the head unit and running some bare copper wire round the RCS terminals


Hope this helps and doesn't offend

It's not the most expensive of installs but suites my needs and budget:

Here are all the parts that make up my install


Wiring Kit (0 Gauge)


Head Unit (bit old but does the job)


Boot Install (the Business end)


Tweeters in doors


Component boxes under front seats and 10 CD Changer under passenger seat


Will get some pics up when the boot is finished

Hi Guys n Gals,

I would like some help on tracking down a part, I followed the brilliant Riser block guide by azain_advanced and decided to go the whole hog and get the riser block gaskets too.

Armed with the part numbers 76881-20090 (Right) and 76882-20090 (left) i went to my local Toyota dealer here in the UK and order the parts. Few days later collect part get home only to find i have 2 for the same side, back to Toyota to be told that Toyota have superseded the part so i can no longer get a left and a right i can only get 2 of the same side

If this is right i would have to stick one to the riser block as normal and one to the bodywork which is just nuts as to get it to line up perfectly is 1:1000000 chance.

I would love to tell this jumped up twerp that he's got his facts wrong and to use his brain and not just read off a computer so if anyone happens to be going to their local Toyota dealer this weekend could you inquire bout this for me

Thanks in advance

Ben

Wolfie is a highly regarded member of the uk owners club as i am part of it too

Trust me he's sound

Also if you go above 17" your odometer reading will go out the bigger you get as the wheel revolutions get bigger always worth considering especially if the cops are hot on speeding