6G Celicas Forums

already taken by me

Hey man check your inbox. Sent the payment like 2 weeks ago. Haven't heard back from you since.

i am not my dad. he does not pay my bills. how would he know about my finances any more than i do?

Now please grow up and stop cluttering these forums with all your unhelpful remarks.

i didnt just "throw in the towel". simply put, when it came down to it, the car was not a priority. i had to make the responsible choice and put my bills and debts first.

why yes it is very fun to drive. it has always been my car and in my name. next time leave your comments to yourself.

That being said, i would like to thank everybody else on here for helping out, even long after i had given up on the car.

We noticed tonight that the belt was moving as it went around the tensioner. It just bolts to the block, or am I missing something that would cause it not to set flush?

Hello,
I just put a new timing belt on because my last one ( a few months old) shredded.
It now looks like my new one is doing the same. It looks like it is rubbing against the block and badly against pump. I made sure to try and center it on the pully's when I installed both of them.

Any ideas why this is happening?
Thanks

yes a Greddy profec b spec II

Hello,
I think I am running my boost too high, causing the knock sensor to throw a code. Is this possible?
How do I lower the boost?
Thanks

BUMP

yeah i was quoted 750 from kansas to california. so if anybody is wanting shipping done that should give you a rough idea on costs.

pm'd

it doesnt sound dumb. it wouldnt surprise me if this has happened to somebody. but yes it is plugged in.

up for sale is my celica. just rebuilt the engine due to knocking but the knock sensor is still going off. cant find the time or money to fix it right now.

-2nd Gen JDM 3sgte
-greddy profec b spec II electonic boost controller
-Precision Turbo FMIC
-Upgraded CT26 (T04E 46 trim and 10* clip)
-2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-3" High-Flow Cat
-3" Magnaflow Muffler
-Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
-Denso Iridium spark plugs
-NGK plug wires
-Centerforce stage 3 dual friction clutch
-Invader body kit
-shortshifter
-17" scion TC wheels






engine just rebuilt and overbored .020 over.
wiring redone by pheonix tuning
asking 3000 OBO located in Topeka, Kansas.

ok thank you very much for your help. its gonna have to wait a month or two then before i can dyno it. for now while i gather up the money, its going up for sale/ possible part out. hopefully i can get another stock GT

if a gauge wont tell me anything then how else could i watch the a/f ratio without taking it to a dyno? i understand that i need to spend big money to fix problems like these. But dynos get fairly costly (especially in Topeka, Kansas where there is virtually no real performance shops) and my car fund is running low.

before it was 12psi.

okay thanks for that explanation. didnt know they actually "blew". that kind of sounds like a strange way to design an overpriced sensor but whatever lol. are you talking about my air flow meter or air-fuel mixture or both? i never thought about either of those. would a cheapo gauge from autometer work fine for what i'm needing?

just checked timing a few days ago and it was correct.



i havent took it past 8psi since the rebuild. i rebuilt it bcz it spun a bearing and started knocking. everything was machined to spec. and/ or replaced except for now being bored .020 over.

it will throw a code even if i'm not boosting. as soon as i hit 1800rpm the cel comes on.

No. after reading over the wonderful discussion regarding Fastbird's swap (LINK) and a few others besides that one, i was wanting to stay with a sensor made for the 3s.
i was also wondering, once a KS detects knock, is it no longer capable of being used? or in other words once i get a code, do i need to buy another KS?

for quite some time i've been having trouble with my knock sensor. it keeps throwing a code even after i have replaced the sensor,rebuilt the motor, and redid my wiring( thanks tweak). we just rechecked the timing and its set at 10degreesTDC. i cant possibly think of anything else that could be causing a problem. could a bad ecu cause this to happen? if it was bad wouldn't the car not run at all? i've tried searching but all people ever say is to replace the sensor.... i'm really needing some more ideas on what else i need to check. Thank you.

Thanks,
I was going to call you tomorrow about this
I still need to call though about the starting issues(removing push button).
Thanks Again, Lee

OOPS I meant .....4 wires total 2 white 1 gray 1 black-- I edited my first post to correct wire colors

o2 wasn't hooked up when we got the car, and wire(s) was cut/missing. After getting harnes rebuilt, we noticed that we had forgot to about o2 sensor. The person that did the rewire of the harness directed us to which wire to hook to , the shield wire. He said hooking up to the sensor with 4 wires was fine, but I am not sure which one. And as it is a weekend, I can't reach him.

I am getting codes 21 and 51. I was getting a 43 but that is because he has a push button add to start the car-we are going to change this.
Thanks Lee (Turboman23's dad)

Hello,
I am working on my son's (Turboman23) car.
I just had the wiring harness redone (Great work DR Tweak) and need to wire in the o2 sensor.

The original o2 had single wire, but new o2 has 4 wires (2 white, 1 gray, and 1 black). Dr Tweak sent a new single wire connector (plug) to wire them together.

I can not remember which one of the 4 wires to use to connect to the wire coming from the ECU?
Can any one help with this?

2nd question, prior to the new harness, my son's codes showed Knock sensor, he has replaced wiring and knock sensor what elso could cause this? Also CEL stays on all the time.
Thanks,
Lee

i was going through a box of extra parts and i came across this. pretty sure it goes to a gen2 3sgte but wasnt sure what it is for. anybody have an idea?