6G Celicas Forums

update Car is running great! Thanks for all the help, added new knock sensor after fixing wastegate. Knock sensor codes gone as well as CEL is off.
Put on new coil pack, which solved the not re-starting when warm issue.
Thanks Again for all the help

He said, that is what he has done before, but it seems to be getting worse.
He thinks its the coil, when it does not start there is no spark until car sets (cools down?) a bit. Then it starts again

yes, from what i understand this is what he is running into. I will ask for more detail when he gets home. As mentioned just having surgery i have not been able to mess with the car, so what i know is second hand.

UPDATE- Been down from shoulder surgery, My other son, added new knock sensor and opened wastgate 9to stay open) and code went away. Thanks for the help.
Now we just have to find out why sometimes it doesn't want to restart after driving. New battery- but jump always does the trick, although seems to take longer at sometimes then others.
Anyways, Thanks Againn

How did you know i did his taxes lol

Bitter and Bcccentaur,
Thanks for the help. I ran into I few things.
For boost control he has a Greddy Profec B-specII.

After looking at the manual http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf It said to disconnect the connector and vaccum lines from selonoid valve, plug vacuum ports. Then connect a wire from the Greddy to a supplied valve (i think it controls wastgate), and 1 vaccum line from the valve to the actuator , and another to a port or nipple on intercooler pipes before the intercooler.

He does not have the selonoid disconnected. Nor does he have the wire from the Greddy to the supplied valve connected, it's just hanging there, in fact I do not see the supplied valve anywhere.

The Greddy also has a vacuum line that should be teed into the vaccum line for the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line that you cut to attach the tee.
Instead he has the vacucum from the Greddy going to the back of the Intake manifold.

I know this is not the correct setup- But could this be part of or contributing to the problems with this car?
Thanks for the education Guys.

Thanks Bitter,
I will give that a try.
I should have mentioned the 43 is probably because he has a push button wired up to start the car-thats going to go.
When you said "plumb the wastegate up like how it should be." I am not sure what you meant.
Thanks

I got the codes, they are 52 and 43.
I am not sure where to go from here,
So any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Guys, I didn't get to the codes tonight loooong day, just now sitting day to rest.
I should have no problem tomorrow, Thanks again for the help.

Actually that is the plan... but the 10 speed is a good Idea.

Thanks for the help,
What are you asking for the wastegate?

My wife laughed and said "we know that! I told him not to buy the car in the first place"

Will do tomorrow.

This is where I am unfimiliar with the car and Turbos. I copied this from one of his earlier post, not sure if it will help or not:
-greddy profec b spec II electonic boost controller
-Upgraded CT26

Thanks for the info on the wastegate, I do remember the guy at the import shop saying something about oil in the lines and it not opening correct or at the right time...or something like that. My son said "well thats not the problem, and it did not over boost"

If it is a CT26, are wastegates availale for these?
Is it hard/costly to convert an external ?
Thanks again for the help,
Lee

update 12/6 Car is running great! Thanks for all the help, added new knock sensor after fixing wastegate. Knock sensor codes gone as well as CEL is off.
Put on new coil pack, which solved the not re-starting when warm issue.
Thanks Again for all the help

UPDATE- After reading codes I got Codes 52 and 43
Hi,
Well, I have "inherited" my sons Celica problems. Some of you may remember the car. His screen name was Turboman23. It's a 95 Celica with 91 or 92 3sgte (not sure which at the moment).

I am trying to work on this with car with pre 1970 Chevy knowledge!
Anyways on to the history/problem(s): (Sorry for being so long)

He blew the engine. He had the bottom end rebuilt.
Dr. Tweak redid his wiring harness.
Check Engine light stays on.
When we read codes (can't remember number, sometime ago) it said Knock sensor.
He refused to drive it, has had my car for a year. I want it back. (sorry had to get it out)

I took it to a local import shop, they said they could not pull the codes, and that they had to pull them manually(???) and said the wastegate was bad causing knock sensor to "go off".

My son said they were wrong. And refused to work on it did not want to "chase parts" in trying to fixi it. He also said he did not know where to get a wastegate for it or if one was available. It has an internal wastgate.

So now to the questions:
Can a bad wastegate cause knock sensor code?
Any idea where to find one? Price?
Other reasons/fixes to correct code being thrown so CEL goes off?
Can the car be driven?[size="3"][/size]
Thanks for any help,
Lee

Hello,I am new on the list and am working on my sons 1995 Celica ST with 3SGTE swap.

His exhaust donut is shot between where the front downpipe and exhaust pipe bolt together. I went to part store to buy the donut and they sold me an Fel-Pro "Exhaust Flange Gasket" which just looked like a thin round ring about 1/8 in thick. I am new at working on these Celicas and am used to old Chevy's with the thick cork looking "donuts".

Did they sell me the wrong part? It looks awfully thin to be an exhaust donut.

Numbers on package...sku#19780433 MFG# 60915 replaces number 90917-06056

Any help would be appriciated.
Thanks.