6G Celicas Forums

Sorry, didn't mean to alarm you there. I'd say just check the filter and drain plug to make sure they are tight and keep an eye on the level then.

Maybe I should clarify more on the shade of brown. Like the 5 dots of light brown in the picture below or the rest of the dark brown/black? Light brown = bad. Dark brown/black = good.

The last time you pulled your dipstick...what color was the oil? If it was brown or spotty, then your head gasket would be to blame.

Fill the coolant reservoir with 50/50 antifreeze/water to the full line while the engine is COLD.

As for the oil, definitely keep an eye on it. Check the ground under the car as well as the frame rails and axles to see if you are dripping.

I had to turn the pass side axle a little to get the splines to line up in the diff. It should slide in a little, then line up the splines and push hard. It will slide in some more and then I used a pry bar to force the snap ring in place. There is a definite pop that you will hear to be sure the snap ring is seated.

Change them with both trannys. You can borrow a seal puller from a local auto parts store. It looks like a "T" with a claw on one end. It takes a little prying but the hardest part is trying to find a way to get the handle to rotate over center with everything in the way. Don't use a flat head screwdriver or anything of the sort or you will scratch the housing. Talking to the tech, he said that you can cut the seal with a knife, pull the spring out, and yank on the seal that way...just be sure not to gouge the walls or you might have a leak later on.

Got the new shafts in. I only took off the three ball joint nuts/bolt and pried the lower arm down. I didn't need to disconnect the tie rod or sway bar so that saved a lot of time. I used a large pry bar set between the dust shield of the drivers side shaft and the tranny and with one hit of a mallet the shaft came right out. I did have a bit of a time getting the passenger side bearing to break free from the mount though. 2 and a half hours from start to finish minus putting the splash shields back on...I broke a few rusted bolts so those will stay off until I can get some new nut plates and machine bolts. Thanks for the DIY thread...helped a lot!!

Guess that'll do it huh?

I found a set of 195/55/15 (more popular size) on tire rack for $55US per tire shipped and I know those fit. According to tire rack the 185 is too skinny for a 7" rim. Check out tirerack.com and discounttiredirect.com.

Ok, after posting here I am almost certain that is my problem as it is more of a "ticking" sound than a grinding sound. Next question, I'm pretty mechanically inclined and am pretty pissed at myself for not checking the boots well enough every tire rotation. They were dry so I figured they were good. Anywho, how tough is it to swap out the shafts? It looks like the left side is pretty easy -- LHD car -- and the right side is going to be a bit harder. Is it as easy at it looks as far as tie rod off, axle nut retainer and nut off, rotate hub and pull shaft out of the tranny...or are there some clips I have to deal with?

So I was driving down the wonderful Missouri roads last night and hit a massive puddle. After I got back on asphalt, I noticed that the steering wheel had a BAD shimmy at all speeds. It was very difficult to keep the car straight. I made it home and took a gander at the drivetrain and suspension. I noticed that both my CV boots at the hub are torn and need to get them replaced. I checked the tie rod ends, ball joints and sway bar brackets and all is secure. I put everything back together and took a test drive. I noticed a grinding sound whenever I turn while accelerating or decelerating and the wheel shimmy is intermittent. I think replacing the half shafts (the boots look like they have been torn for a while now) would fix my problem. Any other ideas?

Anyone know where to get a twin entry to a single entry adapter for the CT26?

OK, a little more about my situation. I have a CT26 single entry from a Supra and a 5SFE. I was wondering if I got a T-28 manifold if the single entry would hook up. I guess not. I'll check out what options baktasht has to offer. Thanks.

I have been searching away and either I'm missing every post regarding this or it hasn't been talked about in a while. What I'm wondering is what are the stock flange types for the 3SGTE CT26 turbos. From what it looks like, I have guessed the single entry is a T-28 and the dual entry is a T4. How far off am I? Thanks!

Very true...I'll be taking them off again soon to check the wear so I'll throw some on at that time. I doubt they will seize in a week or two. Thanks.

I wasn't going to put that on there because I've seen caliper bolts come off before. Granted you should be checking them every time you rotate your tires so they shouldn't migrate that far without being cought but yeah. I didn't put any on...I'll just back them out every now and then and clean them up every once in a while.

I got the new bracket in today and installed. I'm going to drive a week getting on the brakes pretty heavy (I usually downshift and hit the brakes around 10MPH) and see how the wear pattern looks. The caliper piston looked fine and wasn't cocked at all. Both pads were worn but the piston side was wearing at an angle so that leads me to believe I have a caliper problem. I'm also going to bleed the brakes this weekend. I have half a gallon of brake fluid laying around so I figured it wont hurt anything to do it...as long as the bleed ports aren't fused to the caliper.

Well, while taking the caliper bolt off, it broke in the caliper bracket so now I'm royally facked. I'm going to try and drill it out and tap a slightly bigger bolt but I'm not sure how well that will work. I do have a little sign of a heat problem. Not on the rotor but on the old pads. They were cracked and pitted but they are organic pads so I wasn't expecting much from them in the first place. Time to go find a caliper bracket. If anyone has one laying around...that would be awesome!!


EDIT: Nevermind about that bracket...it is only $40 from the dealership so instead of worrying about shipping and waiting the week for it to get here, it will be there tomorrow at the dealership.

Now I just have to find out why the pad is wearing more than the others. While on hold waiting for the parts department, I was thinking. Based on my aircraft technology background, logic would tell me that I possibly have air in the three brakes that aren't wearing as much and instead of the fluid extending the calipers, the air is compressing and the one line without air (right rear) is stopping the majority of the weight. Thus the hotter brake pads and the faster wearing. Does that sound possible?

I changed my pads a few years ago and I just started hearing the wear sensor squeel. I only drive about 5000mi a year so I took the tire off to see what was up. Only one pad is worn down and the rest are still new. My question is, do I just need to bleed the brakes or is there more that I'm not seeing here? If I just need to bleed, do I bleed the three that aren't stopping or the one that is?

Thanks,

Don

Just make sure you aren't getting hosed and they are replacing every seal that holds oil in the engine.

Too bad everything on his site is on back order.

Player-
What is with all those lowerd minivans up there?!?! Soccer moms driving in style!!!

A very common thing to go are the front and rear main seals (the seals around the crank). Look at your CV boots and see if they have oil on them. Also, check the inside of your front rims for oil. Usually once main seals start to leak, it will be a slow leak until you change them. I'd make it a good habbit to start checking your oil every time you fill up or every Sunday...whichever comes first. Start looking from the bottom of the oil pan and move up slowly to see where the oil stops...that should give you an idea of what may be going.

Another thing you can do is push down on your dip stick holder...those can come loose.

Aren't you afraid to hit that IC piping hanging under the bumper on debris or something?

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in the 80's.