6G Celicas Forums

Try to get it fix ASAP cause even if the 5S is nearly indestructible and free wheeling(non-interference engine)
a retard or advance timing (exagereted) could possibly cause auto-combustion and/or ping (bad sound from internals due to a bad combustion timing) that would permanently damage Crank,ConRods & Main Bearings and in the worst case scenario it can poke a hole through a piston!(by overheating with bad ignition timing)
-If not nesssary don't use the car if you say thoses sounds are reccurent.(use on emergencies only on very short distances and don't floor the throttle,be decent avoid overheating by constantly keeping an eye on Temp.
-Get it repaired right away; if you say the sounds are that scary,might as well tow it away to the shop than blow up internals.($$$)
hope the update's helps on your decisions keep it up, with courage.

Sorry about the situation my friend, but not knowing the level of competence of the guy you've deal't with is'nt really your fault and we alltend to save money every now and then but from a distance far away by network cannot help you more then this,Sorry . stick with my last reply and if you have the possibility to prove that you had the same job done twice maybe then he'll admit with proof (like photos of miss timing) from the other shop or whatsoever he'll admit the lack of competence and knowledge and refund labor if honest.

off to bed for a little bit of rest before classes tomorrow (sorry off topic) please keep me informed of the story endings by PM or so.

-Rear Crankshaft seal is'nt a problem unless it's leaking a lot leaving oil spot's everywhere you go and/or making slip the clucth unvoluntaraly (a lot like when you were learning to drive stick shift ) from the oil absorbed in clutch lining making it slip and glaze/blue(ish) your friction surface on either one or both flywheel and pressure plate.
-try finding a TOY specialist around town or at least a Japan import specialist who won't charge you your pink slips to fix LoL (no need to go to the dealer !)
Cause probably the mech where you first started out this legacy won't admit fault or will try to fix up error
by probably worsting things up and charging labor anyways(I guess so??)

Hi NaderG,
I'll try to help you to the best of my knowledge and skills here?! 1st: When changing a T Belt on S series (Manufacturer says 60k miles), Dealer Techs usually only change: T. Belt, Water Pump , Tensioner Pulley w/Tension Spring (little spring 2'' long attach to Tensioner Pulley back plate who presets tension on new belt when installing), they also inspect Idler Pulley for free wheeling,weird noises (bearing), end play and/or axial distortion . Second Time changing T. Belt (Manufacturer say about 120k miles),Dealer Techs will change:T. Belt,
Water Pump (second time;a water pump has a limited lifetime that's important to check up(shaft end play,bearing of pulley squealing,axial distortion of the pulley and most importantly a little orifice located often beneath the shaft of the pump which leave often debris (spill lines) of coolant most of the time cristallized redish pink coloured (Red Toyota's coolant spills when the bearing is tired and the inner seal can hold off the coolant in the W.P. housing) when this happens after a certain time,the pump will self-destrust (without letting notice since the shaft overheated and sliced in two but pulley still turning steady and freely without rotating impeller in the W.P. housing) and cause overheating if the engine is'nt turned off.(Happened to my friend GT hardtop '96 result of negligence OEM W.P. was never been changed at 176 XXX KMeters ). Back to the parts: (sorry wanted to close the loop on w.p. question ) Tensioner and spring again, this time Idler, Crankshaft Seal, Camshaft Seal, Oil pump Seal and finally The overall inspection for leaks (oil&coolant)
2nd: Possibles causes but hard to say without seeing and hearing;
-T. Belt shifted one teeth before aligned Cam & Crank T. Marks?!
-Bad Tension on T.Belt (bet they binded it too much;Some Mechs don't know the correct procedure for binding T.Belt on Toys until informed).
-Forget the lifter thing bad excuse for bad timing job since there were no such noises before went in the shop!(sometimes better off with costier labor then cheap unexperienced wannabes who pretend knowing, no disregards friend )
Finally I'll wrap up with specs:Easiest way to don't mess up and make sure T. Belt job perfect goes like this;
after everything in place (T. Marks A-1 and other components torqued) bind the little spring of the tensioner,slightly fasten the tensioner pulley bolt in place,Do at least one OttO cycle (4-stroke cycle which involves 720 degrees at the crankshaft with a ratchet and box),Verify if the Timing Marks will still perfectly align the Cam Mark and the 0 Mark at the Crank, if OK you're tension is theoricaly setted but I always untighting the tesioner pulley bolt keeping the same pressure on it, to give an extra 32th or 16th of a inch linearly in the slot tensioning the belt for the extra tension to set down and finally torque the tensioner pulley bolt.(because a new belt always stretches a bit with time and heat and sets up in the little bit worned Cam&Crank pulleys teeths; personal finition )
Hope this helps even if it's highly techs descriptive?!
(Father's 3S-FE '97 Rav4 1st T.B. job done at 134 XXX KMeters runs like manufactured set)
(Mom's 4A-FE '97 Corolla 2nd T.B. job done at 202 XXX KMeters runs like a new engine)
(My Own 5S-FE GT 2nd T.B. job done at 206 XXX KMeters runned liked hell for 2&½ years even on drag strips and street racing until clutch lining scorched off one side because of faulty clucth master cylinder )
(Next my Bros 4A-FE '96 Corolla 2nd T.B. job)
(Then eventually my '94-'95 JDM 3S-GTE on a skid (what a wonderful place to work on a T.B. ) it's supposed to have between only 30 and 45 K Miles on it according to the Japaneses Importer Guys in Montreal shop ; so I won't take chances I'll do it like it was the second time to be done, because of the age of the components! (and also the beatings it will take after the swap's done!!!)

Hi,
I've bought an E153 transaxle from a Camry Solara '99(1MZ-FE) for my 3S swap, but I have no clue which axles that could be eventually fitted. I really don't want to have to build my own hybrid axles out of my GT outboards and buying axles from a E153 just for the inboards and then balancing them in a specialized axle rebuilding shop.(because of the different lenght and different spline/diameter in tranny and wheel hubs?) Secondly will my shifter cable/links fit. (same lenght?)
Thanks for your swapping knowledge in advance!

Thanks Death, I've seen Dr. Tweak' s ebay store and I've got to say he's the master when it comes to engine swap wiring harnesses; he must be really patient when it comes down to the twin wiring diagrams (both stock and upgraded engines) paperwork(quite impressive!). Personally this is not my strenght, since I'm studying automotive mechanics I would like to practice this kind of work in my swap so that I can grow up stronger from this everending legacy that's my project car(Lucky my girlfriend is'nt reading this cause she thinks the car a cash blackhole ), but I need motivated people who think like me(That's all this time and money is worth the sacrifice in the end; being proud of your own and unique 6GC that reflects your self achievements ),to guide and help me, following their own experience and knowledge. THANKS AGAIN FOR CARING Keep in touch...

By the way nice ride DEATH! (I'll be updating my first profile photos soon, but nothing special awaits; exterior's stock!)

Hi Folks,
I've just purchased a complete '95 UK specs uncut engine wiring harness with the fuse block, and I own a 3s-gte '94 or '95 (not sure). I want to known if there's a big difference between them including ECU pinout and/or fuse display. I'm swapping the 3S in a '95 USDM GT, the big connector for power distribution at the end of the wiring harness near the engine fuse block seems identical then for the 5S. Is it plug and play ready???
Thanks for caring!

Hi Folks,
I need help finding theses ignition part numbers cause the guy who sold me the engine at the JDM warehouse did'nt know how much missing parts there were so he sold me all that he could find for a reasonable price.By the way, I think he gave me the wrong ECU 89661-2B280 (ST185) instead of 89661-2B840 (ST205),
anyway I would like a reliable source of information on this case, if possible someone who purchased a JDM ST205 Front Clip '94 or '95 with the OEM ignition parts, could guide me or somebody that's 100% sure about thoses JDM numbers. Thanks for your help in advance!