6G Celicas Forums

i think your talking about the color called anthracite, it is a pretty nice color, i was going to do my car that color but i decided to go with the quicksilver color found on the WOTM supra, which is one bad larry of a car i like to think

quicksilver - http://news-images.caradisiac.com/IMG/jpg/...upra-WOTM-2.jpg

anthracite - http://www.vipimports.com/images/carsforsa...racite_side.jpg

thats about as far as i got lol. closest thing i found was that its 125lbs with the crank. anyone know how much a crank weighs

i dont know what exactly went wrong but when i replaced my head thinking thats what my oil burning problem was i noticed my pistons had some wiggle room.

thats what i wanted to do but i am having trouble finding a block. and i would bring it to a machine shop to get it done right, luckly i have a friend that said he would do it for a pretty good price so im not worried there.

And smoking is exactly what my motors doing now, thats why i want a new block. its rather embarrasing i dont know what exactly went wrong but when i replaced my head thinking thats what my oil burning problem was i noticed my pistons had some wiggle room.

so i guess im just getting a new block, no one has said to stick with the one i got lol. so thank you

would i be able to get the 5s block? bare block nothing else.

thats the thing lol. i am looking for the small budget route, i dont have much money to play with. and the reason i wanna stay with the same motor is because its practicly brand new ( head, crank, bearings, oil & water pump ).

so all i wanna do is just get my cylinders redone with right size pistons. just wanna know if it would be ok to redo my cylinders or just get a used block

i got a bone stock 5sfe with piston slap now .... would it be safe to just get to block honed out and get right size pistons for it? or should i just get a new block?

how much shipped to 06331?

what is does the FG mean for the raiser blocks?

check your timing, belt may have jumped a couple teeth or so. i know its unlikely but its possible. i replaced the head on my car and my belt jumped on me and sounded choppy, kind of like a high compression engine with some nasty cams.

Checking the timing isnt too hard, there is a sticky on here that shows you how to replace it, same basic concept, but if that is the problem it could save you a few hundred.

Timing Belt Sticky - ( http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57712 )

try doing a dry then wet compression test.

prolly around $300. im short on money and am going to get a rebuilt one off ebay

Ive been burning oil horribley, and im pretty determined that its the head causing my problems

where in CT are ya?

im actually looking for a rebuilt head myself. and through my searching i have found that there is a diff between the two. on the cali spec head on the intake side there is a hose nipple in between the injector ports. easy to notice.

^^^ greatest movie ^^^

def the silver top. 20v with ITBs, obvious choice. just pop the valve cover off when you get it. i got a used 5s from these guys and there was sludge like you couldnt believe, like mud everywhere. just fore warning you.

problem fixed. it was my glo gauges. just need a new dimmer switch now . glad its just that, i was scared i screwed up my car lol. thanks guys

today i was messing aroung with my dimmer switches, the one that all cars have for the needles ect. the other for my glo gauges. i was trying to see if i can control both with the stock one. obviously dumb choice looking back at it

now the problem. 10A gauge fuse blows, every one i put in. it goes out when ever i turn the key to the ON position.
even with dimmer switch unplugged and whole gauge cluster out, it blows. any ideas. how do i use a volt meter to check things? really need help on this one. thanks in advance. Also with car running and door open, buzzer goes off until door shuts. radio still works, dome light still operates, key ring still lights up. everything is fine but the fuse blowing.

ok.

if i were to take the head off would i be able to tell if the rings were bad?

and does any one know where i can get a leak down tester, i called my local advanced and napa and the dont carry them.

damn, got excited well im stumped

well the only thing i noticed was that my #2 cylinder plug was the only one that was oily.

so i took my valve cover off, and im hand cranking the motor over. on the compression stroke i can hear air hissing, not exactly sure where its from though.

what i did was pretty much set up for compression test but with valve cover off and hand crank, so i did one cyl. at a time.

after i rebuilt it and it was on the engine stand i hand cranked it for timing check purposes and i heard it hiss then, so that was with the new rings not even worn in. maybe i found out my problem?

dipstick reads a quart low. pcv valve works.

pretty sure im where i should be., and my pcv valve is fairly new. maybe i got too high of oil pressure? and thats causing the blow by? when i did the rebuild i took out the balance shafts, (camry motor). and i plugged the oil hole that supplies oil to them which is what i read to do. but i did read it didnt do much of difference in pressure.

even if it is a simple problem like that, doesnt that mean i caused damage?

so it is most likely my rings?

UPDATE(unsolved mysteries ): unscrewed oil filler cap, sprays oil out,

(oil cap on)for the hell of it rev the motor & now have tons of smoke