6G Celicas Forums

Upgrade to my 7AGE with dyno sheet.

Ive changed to a ser3 smallport head (gasflowed and polished with 292deg 9mm lift cams) Comp ratio is past 12:1.

Here you can see the difference in the lobbes between a ser3 (232deg) cam and the yoshi 292 9mm cam.

http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/IMG_1078.jpg

The 16v dizzy gear fitted to a 20v exhaust cam.I had to send Dave Repsold 2 20v ehaust cams and 1 16v exhaust cam.Btw my intake cam was a 20v bt ehaust cam and my exhaust is a st exhaust cam

http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/IMG_1079.jpg

The smallport intake ports after Mike Dixon got hold of them.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/IMG_1083.jpg

The exhaust ports.
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/IMG_1080.jpg
http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/IMG_1081.jpg

I skimmed 0.65mm off the block so that the pistons are flush with the deck of the block this gives much better squish. Im using 20tho oversized pistons and a 0.4mm metal headgasket.To prevent the valves from touching the pockets in the pistons at high revs they got machined out 0.5mm.

I also got a custom set of headers and downpipe made with a 57 to 63 mm cherry-bend Stainless exhaust system

Here's the latest dyno graph on 95octane.

http://www.tolken.co.za/twincamforum/viewt...145&start=0

They do fit in the block,both are 81mm in std size.They how ever dont fit on the conrods as the 7a have press fit gudgion pins and the 20v have floating pins.

I used my 7afe's pully to get TDC with the mark on the oil pump and just swopped the pully again with a 4age pully.Made a new mark on it again for future rev.
Anyways,theres new plans again,bought a SilverTop 20v head,just need to match the intake ports on it to the BlackTop ITB's.Few otherthings I need to sort out then I'll remove the 16v head,swop the pistons with a set of 20v pistons and slap the 20v head on.I may even get my hands on a set of 288deg Cams for the 20v head but I'm still negotiating with the owner.
Will keep you guys updated on progress tho.

Not yet bro.
The engine did just over 2000km and had 3 oil changes.
The cams need to be advanced a bit as I cant seem to get it to rev past 7300rpm.I think that my crank is maybe 1 or 2 degrees off TDC.Then I still need to do the wiring of the Dicktator and need to get the ITB's adaptor made but I'm still considering whether I sould rather get a small port head.I'm not in a hurry tho.The car did a 1000km trip a weekend ago without any problems.
I'll post up the progress as things happen

Im not reving past 6000 YET,as the motor still feels stiff,but the motor will be reved to 8000 when ready

Thanx guys.

The engine has done 820km thusfar,changed the oil on 600km.Wil do another 1200km b4 I put it on a dyno.

I dont drive the car that much so the milage pics up slow.When the engine is run in,ITB's and ECU fitted I'll have it Dynotuned and will post up the numbers

I'm considering that but then vacume starts becoming a issue,on ITB's in std setup its already a tricky business.
The other option is to have a 10mm Aluminium adaptor plate made and match all 3 pieces,I'll see what I end up with and will post that up aswell.

Here's my write up on building a 7age using a ser1 Bigport head and opviously a 7afe bottomend.
I'm writing the build in 2 sections: section 1 is the history behind the build,the initial ideas and why I didn't end up with them.Section 2 is the actual build step by step with pics of before and after modifications.

Section.1

The overall feeling about the 7afe interals are that their weak espesially the rods and that they dont like high revs.Apparently their weakness is in the rod bolt assembly as their not like the 4age rods with a bolt end nut configuration but just a bolt going into tread on the rod side.

Well this scared me as my future plans for the 7age is a 7agte and I really dont fancy the idea of a broken rod causing a messed up engine so I did some research: In South Africa getting hold of aftermarket forged 7afe parts is like finding a 18year old virgin so I had to find other alternatives.So I went and bought a set of CA18DET conrods as their only 0.3mm longer than the 7afe rods and the small ends are the same exept that their floating pin as opposed to the 7afe being press-fit.The big ends are quite different but nothing machining can't solve.The Nissan rods are 24.4mm wide at the bigend and have a 48mm diameter.The toyota is 22mm wide with a 50mm diameter.so the plan was to modify the crank by cutting it to 46mm and nitrate harden it afterwards and shaving the nissan conrods thinner to the aquired 22mm.
But...

The 7afe have a cast iron crank and therefore can only be gas nitrated which only penetrates to 0.4mm below the surface.I prefer deep and proper penatration... Liquid Nitrating gives a deep hardening but can only be done on steel cranks.

That then forced me to scrap the Nissan rod idea.I've read on the G6 Celica forums of guys boosting their 7afte's on stock untouched bottom ends and some even accidently overboosting to as much as 20psi at 8000rpm without breaking anything.This got me thinking and I phoned Dave Repsold the old TRD Liftback builder as his known to know his stuff on the Toyota racing scene in SA.He's got lots of faith in the 7AFE rods as according to him their forged and much stronger than what they look like.He did however suggest some modifications done to them to keep them high-rev-happy.This mods include inserting 4age smallens bearings and modifying the rod bold setup so they can take ARP rodbolts.The crank also get polished 0.5thou to allow for a bit more oil layer between the crank and bigend bearings.Thus I ended up using 7AFE bottom-end goodies with ser3 TC pistons.

Section.2

The 7AFE donating its bottom end:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF0867-1.jpg

The block stripped,cleaned and honed:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird...aned7Ablock.jpg

My std 7AFE rods as I got them from Dave Repsold,he modified them and put 4age small-end bearings in as Im using ser3 4AGE pistons.He also re-tapped and threaded the rodbolt section to accommodate ARP bolts:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image342.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image343.jpg

The series3 pistons,donated by 88RSI (Dankie Marius vir al jou moeite met die rods en vir die pistons)
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image344.jpg

The Genuine Toyota Decoke set:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image350.jpg

The crank after being polished and balanced:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image346.jpg

My copper clutch made by Norbrake in Boksburg compared to the std clutch:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image341.jpg

The Walbro High flow 5bar 255l/h pump:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image332.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image334.jpg

The Renault Espace 116teeth cambelt,
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image349-1.jpg

The crank installed and torqued:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1115.jpg

I used a 4age waterpump with the 7afe rear section here's a pic of how I made it fit:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1118.jpg

The series3 pistons sitting snugly in the 7AFE block:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1135.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1136.jpg

Fitting the sump and pic-up:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1133.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1134.jpg

The engine bay after a high pressure cleanout,axiously awaiting the monster:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1137.jpg

The bottom-end and gearbox on its way to the engine bay:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1138.jpg

The engine installed and mountings tightened (halfway there):
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1139.jpg

The head torqued,intake and exhaust branch fitted:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1140.jpg

The cams fitted,I made small markings so that I can adjust it to the correct position after the cambelt is fitted.Due to the cambelt not really made for this motor the teeth forces the cams to be out by about 3deg:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1142.jpg

This is corrected by means of vernier camgears (Thx to Marius again for the camgears):
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1141.jpg

The renault belt is very tight fit,with the tensioner fully slacked its moer difficult to get the belt on so I Slotted the tensioner a bit more:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2312.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2311.jpg

I also hed to cut the extension off that the spring hooks on to,didn't take a pic of that tho

I used the 7AFE bottom cam cover as the 4age cover didn't fit.Using the 7A cover the alternator belt touches the timing marker so I had to cut it off and make my own markings;
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1143.jpg

Due to the 7afe block being a bit longer than a 4a block the alternator bracket doesnt fit as normal either so I just removed 1 bolt to allow for it to hang a bit.:
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/Image1145.jpg

The motor started after we had a lot of problems getting the camtiming perfect but we got there.The engine has done 400km thus far.

Here's the final pictures of what the engine now looks like:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2323.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2322.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2321.jpg

Hope this write-up will help guys out there wanting to do the same thing.

As soon as the engine is run in the Dicktator management goes in and this will sort the breathing...
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2353.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2/Ewird/DSCF2352.jpg

Can the Toyota and/or TRD metal headgaskets be re-used?

What rods are you using?

Ok.Found out from our local TRD tuner that the 7AFE have a cast iron crank and so do ALL toyota's

Can anybody tell me what type crank the 7afe have.
Is it steel forged or cast?

Ya I saw what you meant,and I agree with you.
I will try work it out but will have to do it with liquid or somethin as the ports on both are not perfect shapes.Will see what I can do though.

Some extra info and pics added on page 2 of the link regarding the intake tvis plate and fueling.
http://www.tolken.co.za/twincamforum/viewt...p=469673#469673

55mm

I have looked at his,very good read.
My build will differ in many ways but I'll post up a whole thread on it as soon as its running.Might still be a while as I'm not in a hurry.

I will bro.
Most of the parts I'm buying 2nd hand tho.
The CA180DET rods have small end bearing cause they're floating pin.Its 22mm wide same as 7afe.The pin diameter is 20mm so no mods needed there
The bigend journal is 48mm so that'll have to be enlarged to 51mm.
The bigends are 24.4mm wide so I'll have to shave 1.2mm of each side so their 22mm.Then its just the small groove that'll have to be re-cut for the bearings to fit snuggly again.

At last I sourced a set of CA18DET rods as soon as they ariveI'll compare the differences and get he mods done to make them work in the 7A block

Theres no difference on the block.
The tvis works like on the 4AGE (series1&2) with vacume from the intake to open and close and gets a electrinic signal from the ECU to do that.
There's no sensors extra sensors on the block either.The oilpump is a bolt on so the crank angle sensor is not realy mounted to the block and the Combustion temp sensor is on the head not the block.

Aaaahh Thanx man

Don't know what the currency is at he moment but I paid 4500 South African Rand for it which is quite reasonable around here.

I'm going to use my Bigport 16v head.
The block looks exactly like the normal 7AFE block.The section where the crank angle sensor fits is on the oilpump.
The head can take a "normal" adjustable distibutor.
I just bought the 7AFE because I wanted the block and its internals as I want to build a 7AGTE.Only after I bought it I discovered it have tvis on it

Sorry but what do you mean by OBD2?