6G Celicas Forums

Its not that noticable. Your speddo will only be thrown off by about 1-2mph if that. I am running 205/60/15 now. Just a point, snow ties should be skinny also, and not wide. if they have 195/60/15 try it as an alternative. I guess the physics with that is less contact patch, means less chance of slippage on icy surfaces. But a 205/60/15 set-up should be fine.

He means an adjustable suspension. Of course a fully adjustable race suspension cost in the thousands, but a nice set of adjustable suspension are about $1000-1500 USD. Konis and Eibach springs will be a nice street set-up, but will lack the adjustable height, which it seems that you might need down there. With a full suspension set-up, you can tune your suspension to the road and your driving. You can adjust shock dampining firmess, travel, ride height, coil rate, etc. In the long run, you can always adjust it to your needs. A shock coil pair limits you to its less advantage. Take into consideration what you are really going to use your suspension for and your answer will come easily.

CAI dyno runs hav eproven time and time again to have better gains in power, due to the fact that colder air leads to better fuel combustion (drive on a cold day, and drive a hot day). CAI have a longer lag in throttle response, as it takes more time for it to fravel from the filter to the engine. Not too much, but noticable. If you were to go this route, seeing tha tyou live in Utah, you might want to consider an AEM air by pass valve. This little device will prevent your engine from sucking up water. Soem people have short ram or pop chargers. They have reduce air travel time and like wise have better throttle response. If you run one of these, you will need to run a heat shield as it will suck the hot air in the engine compartment. I like your idea of drilling holes into the airbox. A trick that old school racers used before CAI and the sorts. I did this on my 92 integra, poped a high filtration panel filter, Drilled three big 1.5 holes onto the sides, and bottom of it, ran a good size tube to catch some ram air effect and closed the hood. Sounded evil, but when people poped the hood, everything looked stock. Which is kind of nice Plus it keeps the heat away from the air.

It is located towards the back of the firewall, on top of the mainfold, with small diameter vaccum hoses coming and going to it. It should be easily found. Make sure you double check to see tha tit is not the EGR Valve Moudlator that is throwing the code, a common problem with these Toyotas.

The 4AGE is a small displacement motor, try as you may, it is very hard to make a lot of torque with asmall motor. 4AGEs were meant to rev, and rev they do. Almost all their power and peak torque comes in at a very high RPM. Something 5SFE cannot do. What is different between the 4AGE and 4AGZE is the addition of a supercharger. A Roots type Supercharger to be exact. This unit helps the little motor make a good amount of torque in th elow end, which is why it is a better choice for daily driving. Either way, these motors are pretty strong. the 4AGZE's supercharger is usually taken off by many race teams and a turbo slapped on, because the internals are stronger then a regular 4AGE. The TRD Atlantic motor is an NA version of the 4AGE, and is rumored to produce 210+BHP from 1.6L without variable valve timing.

I ran the 5mm NGK's on my 5SFE and they were really nice. Everything fit so perfectly!! And they look so nice! If you are llooking for thicker racing 8mm wires...Magnecores makes them for the 5SFE also. Ebay it. It is as much if not more then the Nology's. I have heard, haven't experience, Nology's Hotwires. I heard that the built in capictators don't respond well to Toyota's like in Hondas. But check around. 5mm great if you are not running external coils. Anything other then that will be 8mm or you will risk melting your wires. You can buy a do it yourself set from Accel, but it won't have the square boot. Hope that helps.
OH BTW
D Sport Mag has some info on spark plugs this month. Stating that copper is most conductive...but needs a bigger conduct point (bigger electrode) then platnium or iredium (which can be amde thinner and use less energy). I run coppers...if they have gold...I would run gold. Anybody who has worked with electrical...knows that copper conducts energy very well. You just have to replace them more often...which is ok...because they are cheap and it forces you to check on the condition of your engine.

EPA milage are suppose to be off by about 7MPG on either end. This is to account for everything else in life such as type of gas used (certain mixture for different parts of the country), terrain (flat vs hilly), atmospheric pressure (more or less oxygen), etc. If you ever look at a posting for a new car EPA figures...it will give you a range in smaller print then the big numbers placed onthe window sticker. The big numbers like 22/34 is the avearge. So in reality, you might be getting 20/40. Everybody is from different places...and everybody's car is different maintience level. Just keep your car tuned and perfected and you will have close to the EPA results. Hope that helps clear up a few things.

Junk yard for OEM. Got one for about $7. Being an ST, you can eBay and your engine will have the option of a cold air intake. I have seen them around $50.

Yes. The PCV valve is located on the right side of the valve cover by the 2200 emblem and the throttle bracket mount. It little hose is connected to the metal PCV valve. It is not the long hose that is by the 16valve part of the valve cover.