6G Celicas Forums

gauge doesnt matter just so long as its no tooo small.

connect a wire from the chassic of the car, then run it to your neg.

Yes and Yes. Assuming your amp is in the trunk already it should be easy enough to hook up it's blue wire to the + on the lights and the black wire to the - on the lights

Edit: Listen for signal noise before and after this operation - there is a small chance the lights aren't shielded well enough and will change the sound

thats what i did, and my lights work.

It's usually not the same wire actually. There should be two blue wires back there one will be for the antennae [which only comes on with AM/FM radio - you wouldn't want to do this]. The blue wire with white stripe is your remaote which is already run to your amp so why not use that? One thing comes to mind - if the lights aren't shielded well you might catch some signal noise which would be bad - but try it first. If that doesn't work there should be an illumination [Orange IIRC?] wire back there that will turn the subs neons on when you turn at least the first click on your headlight stalk

yeah man, sorry i should of said that.. but yes that wire is the same.
hook it up and pics! interested!

your antenna power wire should be blue... the lil on that runs from the stereo to the amp for yur subs... thats your pos. and run your neg. is the base of the car.. i did it for the lights on my car..

the HU is the headunit

run speaker wire to your power antenna wire on your HU. and ground it so when you turn your HU on, the likes will turn on.

run speaker wire to your power antenna wire on your HU. and ground it so when you turn your HU on, the likes will turn on.

This is most certainly an issue of phase.

Switch the + and - on one of the subs and they will match phase and be significantly louder than the one sub

To clarify your mistake...

You likely wired one sub correctly:
Positive from the amp to positive of the sub
Negative from the amp to negative of the sub

And one incorrectly:
Positive from the amp to negative of the sub
Negative of the amp to positive of the sub

What happening is with the one sub wired different than the other (called out of phase), one sub moves in while the other moves out - effectively cancelling the sound out almost completely! Furthermore, its irrelevant whether the amp + is to the + of the sub and so on, you can wire properly or inverted and it won't matter - all that matters is when you have more than one sub they be wired the same way.

If you want to understand these sorts of things, read up on ohms law and the differences between A/C and DC (your amp takes 12v DC from the vehicles charging system and converts it to A/C to power the speakers).


Additional not so sub related info on phase:

In a car it is sometimes a GOOD idea to wire say, the front speakers out of phase with the rear... or in some rare cases even the front speakers out of phase! Since your not sitting in the middle of the 2 speakers, the pressure waves are not going to be getting to your ears at the same time... hence there is phase distortion regardless of how you wire the speakers. Given the length of the wave of lower frequencies, wiring subs and/or any speakers providing bass frequencies of phase with eachother will cause cancellation at the ear... but when dealing with the shorter waves of high frequencies sometimes wiring the speakers out of phase will make the sound arrive at your ears IN phase!

Thats to say, its not likely that you will want to wire your midwoofers (front door speakers) out of phase... but there is a possible gain from wiring the tweeters out of phase.

I have yet to really toy with phasing in the celica, but I have noticed there is (in my hatchback) a pretty big phase issue between the front and rear speakers. With just the front speakers on, the bass is clear and well defined - they actually play pretty low! With all the speakers on, the bass becomes muddied and there is big cancellation in the lowest frequencies. Since the arrangement in my yaris is the same, I'd bet wiring the rear speakers out of phase with the front speakers will actually IMPROVE bass response! I urge anyone who may read this to due some critical listening (car off in a relatively quiet place) and see if you can tell the difference.

Some radios (kenwoods) invert the phase when the crossover is turned on or off... some have the option to invert the phase, but most will only have direct phase control of the sub (worth playing with for sure!)... this is all equivelant to switching both of the speakers (be it front or rear) + and -, so they are both in an inverted phase, but not OUT of phase (hopefully by now you understand what I mean ).

Playing with the phase, crossover settings, and fader can make ALL the difference in regards to sound quality

I see ur new here, If you plan on boosting it to a point that you need such a big intercooler that u have to change the bumper your going to have to do such an extensive job on the parts of the 7a that u minus well just do a 4agze swap or just go all out and do a 7agze job on er and have some real fun....

Just do a little reaserch on what it takes to get what ur looking for out of the 7a....

Id recomend hurlys thread, as it has a lot of detail in the 7a area....

the intercooler just cools the air so the engine doesn't overheat,the turbo compreses the air making it hotter,without a intercooler the air would be to hot,big IC(intercooler)=cold air,little IC=warm air.If u run high boost you are compressing the air more making it hotter,if u run low boost the temp is not as high.SO if u run low boost u can get a small IC..personal message me if u have any other questions on turbocharging


anyone know who that is....
he he
thats the same bumper as u with a IC

No. It all depends on what size intercooler you buy. If you plan on running low boost, no point in getting a huge fmic.

Its a 7afe, 16 valve is just how many valves your engine has... EFI means electronic fuel injection