6G Celicas Forums

Just out of curiosity I decided to look-up HID laws around Michigan. The universal response I found was how "dangerous" they are and for that they are illegal. I guess with anything about 5000K, or sunlight-white in color, is blinding to traffic and prevents the driver from "seeing properly." I also found quite a few people bickering about how after these lights are installed no one seems to properly align them.

Have any of you felt the need to align them, had any trouble after installing them (people flicking their brights, getting out from in-front, legal or otherwise), or actually did fix their alignment?

I must admit that I haven't really had any troubles since I installed mine *knocks on wood* (let's keep it that way). I absolutely love 'em and can't imagine driving without 'em (thanks Ms. Griff!). I can see the road just fine and visibility seems 100x better in snow and rain. No problems with blinding people, unless the brights are on which is understandable since it's like shining the sun at the road. I haven't thought to give them the good ol' garage door line-up check but I may do that soon (actually, if the rain dies down I might do it in the next hour or two).

Yikes...4,000rpm?!?! Is this something that applies specially to the GT's?

I too shift at about 2500-2900 RPM. I thought this was actually a good point to shift so you're not putting too much wear on your engine or clutch. Hmm...

Can an ST be shifting at 3000-3500 or have even more lead added and shift at 4000+? Sounds kinda scary.

UGH...tell me about it. That's why I try to baby my car and, whenever I can, do maintenance and repairs myself. Not being the most auto mechanical person I know (I can usually handle the electric just fine, just not the "intimidating stuff") means that I usually have to take my car in when a major repair is necessary. I searched and searched for about two months trying to get one of my mates to take care of it but they were just too unreliable.

I must say that despite this small issue, this repair was the most "successful" one I have ever had. The mechanics didn't seem to create any new, $100+ repairs or pull anything shady like disconnect my airbox sensor (had these guys do that when the car sprung a brake fluid leak). And when the issues popped up, the guy who worked on my car actually stayed late and gave me his cell phone number in case I couldn't handle the issue. Nice guy, and desptie this, I would take my car to him again if I needed another transmission-related fix.

Alright, I got in there and took a look at every fuse. They were all just fine... I was a little worried until I decided to take my head unit out. That fuse was blown, replaced it and gained all my missing features back (cig. lighter plug, odometer light, and most interior lights). My sub wasn't working and I went back and checked the amp only to discover that its 40 amp fuse was blown. Replaced that as well and now everything is A-OK.

I am a little concerned as to why this happened though. I took the car in for a clutch replacement and got it back with several blown fuses. Could it be because they didn't disconnect the battery or maybe they touched the leads together?

Either way, it's back in business and I'm happy.

I took my car in and it seems like the gents blew some fuses. First, they claim that the speedo and tach wasn't working when I dropped the car off. Not true. They fix it saying that it was a blown fuse. I jump in the car (after the shop closes) only to discover that my radio isn't working. On closer look, most of the interior lights aren't working either. The gauges light up just fine, so does the clock, and my dome and door lights also work.

The lights for the odometer and trip gauge are out, the radio is out (as is my amp, though I suspect its because the amp lead isn't sending it's voltage), and I can't seem to figure out what fuse it is. Any ideas? Is there a fusible link somewhere that I am missing? I haven't pulled out every fuse just yet (weather has been horrible this weekend) but was hoping to get some insight before I do.

First, I wanted to say a quick thank you to those who helped me in my previous thread and those who have sent me PM's and put up with my total n00b questions. THANK YOU, gents (and lady).

Anyway...I have a gentleman who will be available to fix my slipping (well, if the gas is pressed to hard the RPM's go up but the speed does not; that's slipping, right?) standard transmission. Before he does, I will need to buy the parts for him to replace.

What places would you guys recommend and what parts/brands would you recommend? I am guessing that it will be best to get a clutch kit but want to be certain. Also, please note that this car is an ST and at this time I have no plans on turning into a crazy ricer with the turbo and incredible speed (although, if I had the money............). I am just looking for something that is quality and will either be the same or better than the OEM clutch. Although, if a "performance" clutch will last longer and is near the same price range, I don't see why I wouldn't want to get one.

Again, thank you for all your help thus far...and thanks in advance for the continued help you all have done. I used to be a Nissan Maxima fanatic because of the great community and I was quite excited when I found out that the 6GC has just as great of a community, if not wayyy more kind.

Okie dokie. That's what I thought. Only thing, I was checking the online catalogs for quite a few Toyota dealers and even they didn't have anything listed.

But if it's only gonna be $15-$20...visiting the place can't be too bad.

Power steering pump starting to make some squeeking so a friend insisted on checking it out. Well, he didn't bother to put the cap back on when he dropped the hood shut. So, the power steering cap is totally busted.

Where can I pick one of these up? I have searched everywhere online and haven't found a single listing for a power steering CAP.

Nah, I didn't skip over your post.

Looks like I am going to take it in and get it all fixed up. I am going to try and save up $800-$950 in hopes that that will be enough to get the bugger fixed.

Although I know I shouldn't, I am still driving it as I have to be at a doctor's office every morning for medication receipt (have to do it and this is the only car that's working since my other Celica JUST died). It gets there but I'm nervous as hell and tend to piss off the other drivers on the road whenever the thing crawls up to 35 and 45 MPH.

So, it looks like wherever I do take it, I am looking for a new clutch, new pressure plate, and to ask them rotate the flywheel?

I drove my mother's 1990 Celica ST to my doctor's appointment without any issues. I stopped to get gas on the way and still made it there without any problems. After an hour, I jumped in and started it and and pulled up to the road to make a turn. Just as I got ready to turn the car stalled out. I went to start it back up and it just wouldn't do it. I tried a few more times to start it but no luck. The battery is fine, the alternator is new.

I moved the car out of the way and then checked the oil. NOTHING showed on the dipstick. I poured a quart and a half in and finally it registered in the middle of the dipstick. I went to start the car again and still no luck.

When I turn the key it sounds SIMILAR to a car that wants to start on a low battery. However, the sound doesn't sound the exact same to me. It's very similar but for some reason I just feel like it's "different."

Any ideas? The gentleman that towed the car home for me said he thought it sounding like the timing belt needed to be replaced. Would low oil cause this? What can I do to check what the issue is or what likely needs to be repaired?

Yeah, with it being an ST I surely don't need any sort of special or performance clutch kit. Of course, when I finally obtain the funding to throw the turbo in... that's when I'll have to start askin' y'all about the performance clutch.

So, how hard would it be for someone who's a newb to tuning/fixin' cars to put in/swap out a bad clutch? What would I look for to purchase for the replacement (a kit, just the plate, just a disc, ???)? If I took it to a shop, would it be best to take it to a place that specializes in transmissions as opposed to a place that covers all parts of the car?

And finally... With $500-$800 in labor, what is the average price that I am looking at with parts and labor? $1000+??!?!?!?!

I've had this issue taking place for a little while now. When it began, I simply parked my little car in the driveway with hopes that the funding to get an easy repair would come along. But then my other Celica (a 1991) just died out on me and now I have to get one of them fixed... definitely has to be the stick.

I've noticed for a little while that when I would shift, any gear, after shifting I wasn't able to really hit the gas too hard. If I did, the RPM's would shoot up past 4k and very slowly the MPH would move. If I hit the gas pedal just right, the car would slowly accelerate and the RPM's would seem to travel in-sync with the MPH. Well, now it seems like that "just right" is just about gone and every time I shift or hit the gas pedal the engine screams because the car just isn't moving like it should.

I am not smelling any sort of burning or hearing any sort of grinding. The clutch pedal itself doesn't seem to be any different from the day when I first bought the car either.

What's going on? What needs to get fixed? Where do I take it?

Amazingly enough, I saw another Celica in a parking lot last night. I took a look at it and it obviously was newer than mine. My stylings and year factoids are likely a little weaker compared to some of you pro's out there. SOOO... I was looking for some assistance on what I can do to "upgrade" the appearance of my '95 ST.

I love the look of the GT4 and am a little bit of a fan at how the newer 6gen Celicas look. Now, what differences are there between say a '95 and a '99? It looks like the sideskirts are bit stylish with their bends and "stripes" and what not. Can these be applied to a '95? Are there any other noticeable changes in the '99 when compared to a '95?

This leads me to my next wonder, and it may be a bit broad, but I figure I'd shoot for it anyway: what upgrades have been made on the '94 and '95 to make it look more modern and just more "cool?" I've seen the GT4 hood, which is great but is it really worth the $2000+ for just the front end? What "reasonable" bodykits/ground effects kits look great with these cars (you know, ones that allow the Celica to still look like a Celica but at the same time helps to make it a 'car of your own')?

Ground effects? Body kits? Hoods? Lighting? ...Other? ....Pictures?

Jot me down for ANOTHER pair! I needs the hi-beams this time around.

3. (Supaneko) Bulb 9007, Color 8000k, Walled Lake, MI

(that is, assuming that 9007 is the correct bulb for high beams... if not, please correct my entry!!)

So, are these the same wattage or are they higher? I noticed on the box that there are two options listed: 35w and 55w. Would the high beams be the 55w?

Got my kit and installed it within twenty minutes! GriffGirl, you are awesome! The shipment went perfectly and I am currently looking for the funds to buy TWO SETS. I will need one for my brights and some hi/lo's for a 1990 Celica w/ flip-up lights.

I must admit... The installation is 100X easier than I ever could have imagined! You remove the old bulbs, install the new ones, connect the power lines to the ballast and new bulb, mount, turn on, and enjoy!

Much more blue than I had anticipated, I must admit, but I am still EXTREMELY happy! For the price, for the wait, for everything: it was all worth it!

Two questions for those regarding installation: what do you do with the black rubber (I just left mine to float and used wire ties to manage the wires neatly) and where did you mount the ballasts (right one was stuck to the wheel well, the left one is resting between the airbox and battery for lack of knowledge on a better location).

GotToyota, do you have any recommendations for a thicker tire?

RickJamesBish, I was thinking that may be an issue as well. I believe the recommended for our cars is 32psi? Right now that is what I have them filled to.

OUCH! I'm not sure if my teeth are chattering from it but it seems like my brain's bouncing around!

Is there anything I can do to help get a midly softer ride? Are there are certain type of tires or PSI that I could still maintain traction but get at least a mildly softer ride?

I was looking at Goodyear ComforTreads but I was unsure if the traction would counter the whole idea of getting more control with an upgraded suspension. I thought perhaps a lower PSI (like 30?) may help with a softer ride but again, I don't want to lose too much traction.

What about, sometime next year probably, upgrading to coilovers?

Any ideas? I was quite shocked after feeling how things changed.

I purchased some new headlights for my mother's '90 Celica. These cars use an enclosed unit for the bulb.

I installed the bulbs, get everything screwed back together, flip them on, and only the passenger side headlight was working. With the brights turned on, they both work. I checked the fuse and turned them on with the fuses removed. Once removed, both lights turn on but they are considerably dim.

I then popped the original headlight in and it stopped working as well.

Any ideas?

My guess is that it's the connector plug but I am not too certain. It's dark now so I will have to tinker with it tomorrow. But before I do, I would love to get some input from the <i>experts</i>.

If I wanted to have brighter lights or some sort of lights for the hi-beams, what would you all recommend?

My Celica is a "purple-blue." A little stumped though as far as what the color is actually called.


[Not my car but the color is the same!] Could someone let me know what color this?

That leads me to my next question: When looking for a place to get your car painted, what do you look for?

I am located in Metro-Detroit, Michigan. When I bought the car, I didn't realize at first that it was "two-tone." The driver's side is a lighter blue (seems like the driver's side was involved in a collision) than the rest of the car. Because of this, I want to get the thing painted. It does have a few nicks here 'n there and I figured that when I got the car painted, I could have those taken care of as well.

I am just not sure where to take it to. I know I don't want to take it to Maaco. I am also a little curious as to what good pricing is for having some minimal body work and a full paint job performed.

I have also heard that having it painted white is cheaper than normal paint (no one ever told me why so I don't know how true this is). If I wanted to keep the car the same color, would it cost any less?

Bahh, it looks sweet like that.

Of course, some paint on the hood is needed...

But seriously... Looks great. Good combo methinks! Love the color as well!

Fairly easy you say? Geniuses at the shop told me that there was a spring in there that will pop off as I remove it.

Looks like I should run out and get a Chilton's and possibly save myself some money.

BTW, the site is called 1st Toyota Parts (for future reference ).

OK. So I found a replacement control arm, OEM, from (correct me if the name is wrong, please) 1st Toyota. Excellent price; about $100 cheaper than what the dealership wanted.

Thank you, search tool!

I hate to be a thread digger but after reading the posts within here, I am a little concerned about the combination of suspension parts I purchased to lower my ST hatchback.

I bought the 1.5" Eibach Sportlines as well as a set (front/rear) of KYB GR-2's. Before I ordered them, I was assured that these would be just fine. If I replace the strut mounts (is this actually necessary?) and replace the bumper stops (can I use the Toyota OEM's?), would that help to lessen the chance to blowing my struts?

I recently purchased the necessary parts to lower my car (springs, struts). With every job like this the vehicle requires an alignment and to get the alignment, the car's suspension system was checked.

I was told that I could not have an alignment performed because a control arm bushing was worn.

I am a little frustrated because the bill for this is about $400 (parts & labor).

I was thinking of buying just the part and then taking it to a friend to perform the labor. My problem, it seems that you must purchase the entire control arm in order to replace the bushing.

Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do? Perhaps there is a better place to find the part (currently $175 from local Toyota dealer) or...?