6G Celicas Forums

Send it back, save yourself the trouble.

When I did the reading for how this unit functions exactly, I found that once it reaches the cutoff point for the limit you would like to set (assuming you bought it for launch control) it sends out one long signal to the ignition coil which will keep the coil from firing, but then as soon as your rev goes below the limit you set, it ends the signal and as such will cause the breakdown in the current in the primary coil in the ignition coil and will trigger the ignition coil to fire. The issue is that it does not take into account the position of your crankshaft and will fire the coil regardless of that.....aka....you could have been in the middle of a compression stroke....bee r will let the coil fire.....could have been at the start of the intake stroke...doesnt care....fires coil....it got me to crack 3/4 wiseco pistons...I always thought it took into account crank position but apparently it doesnt....it seems to take the NE signal only for the rpm reading and not the crank position as well....

Need you guys to help me identify that connector that just has a cap on it. It is found in the ecu area....you have the 3 ecu connectors, the circuit opening relay connector and then that last one im talking about. When removed, it looks like all pins are bridged together. What may i ask is the purpose of that connector? I assume one big ground that is bridged to the rest of the sensors or something??

ok, bought these camshafts, installed em and they work great...used some adjustable camgears and so they are set to 0 degrees (stock cam timing)...any tips for what advancement or retardation on either shaft to generate more power??

CATCAMS
7107175 prt#

Duration
258/242 degree

Max Lift
10/8.85 mm

lift at TDC
1.45/0.5 mm

im thinking small advancement (~2 deg) on the intake and medium retardation (~5 deg) on exhaust...then work from there...anyone with better starting point? or tips...

you sir, are a great help...Jim seems to have done what i was curious was possible....im just curious now how long his turbo lasted....

one other thing....its kinda interesting that "Jim" made 330whp @ 21psi using the ct20 while "cuts the pilot" two charts after made 355whp @ 22psi using a gt30...id have thought it would have made a bit more at that at that amount of boost......i can imagine though his turbo was prolly just yawning compared to the ct that prolly having close to a heart attack....lol

O yeah man, i have intentions at some point of going to a more capable turbo....like i said, i just happened to accidentally boost to 21psi on the dyno one day and saw that at like 4900 rpm the engine produced 315whp (graph fell off because i stopped accelerating when i saw the 21psi) which is like 30whp more than what i usually make at 16-17psi ...am i wrong to just be curious how much it wud happen to make if i fulfilled the conditions to prevent knock (especially since i have meth injection)...not saying i wanna run that as a daily setup...just wanna kno if the bearings, turbine wheel, shaft etc will survive a pull or two to 7000rpms at that boost....

I think youve gotten a little confused about what I'm saying man. Im asking....can the ct20 turbo actually hold 20 psi for extended periods...i understand that it wont stand in any of the efficiency islands...but will it surge or choke at 20.....and can i use the water injection system to bring the air temps back down. If you look at the parts list for my car, u'll see the only thing left to do is buy a larger turbo (just wanted to push this one really really far...just to see what it does)

I know i could very easily buy a gt30 or t series, run 16psi on that and make way more power....but im just choosing to use the ct20 out of curiousity...

I thought that as well, however i was tuning on the weekend and did a run at 16 psi...made 290whp....when I did my last run however i took off the air filter and in my run the car went to 21psi (filter was blocked up) i lifted off the accelerator when i noticed we hit 21psi but when we looked at the dyno sheet it was at 310 just before i came off....there was way more rev to get (i lifted as soon as i noticed the 21psi).

This is why i ask...because im intrigued by what happened....can you explain that....i havent found a compressor map for the ct20...if you have one can you post it for me?
Id love to do this again and have more to say, but i just wanna know if the turbo is structurally capable of maintaining 20psi....

How capable are these turbos at surviving pressure above 18psi. Ive heard "hot air" etc...but i have a water injection system....i can clamp the signal and tune beyond the 18psi fuel cut but what other than hot air should i be concerned about? and do you think the water injection can cover that?

nvmd, figured it out

Hello,

i been wiring in some new equipment and from looking on the ecu pinout for the st205 i saw the following relating to the distributor and would like some explanation on eachs purpose:

G2 - Distributor
G1 - Distributor
NE - Distributor
G- - Distributor

what does each do.... i imagine the G- is a ground or negative signal but what is the function of the others?

also, can IGF be used to provide the rpm reading for the car?

tell me you have the rear trd springs as well.

definitely wasnt boost cut....was doing 16psi.....and st205 is about 18...

yup...slip of the fingers...

so for real though, is that what i experienced because i do my own mechanical work and this had me confused....but im sure it is.

This morning I lost a race to this Audi S5 on my local track....now i never normally track my car and my speedo doesnt work. So we take off and my car pulls way off, top of 5th now and randomly it feels like my car shut off....so naturally i look down and the car is still on, just not responding to anything....i let go the accel and after a while the car seems to "start back up" and no check light, afr, boost (vacuum 21-22 in gear and 18-19 neutral) , oil and fuel pressure gauges read normal....temps normal and tank full of gas.....now i assume i hit the speed cut...cant tell how fast i was goin cause the speedo....

So....is that stuff what happens when you hit it??

ok i figured it out so if anyone needs to know after this.

Harness Side ----------> Sensor Side

Brown ----------> White
White ----------> Blue
White/Blue ----------> Black
Yellow/Black ----------> Black

the blacks dont matter the order.

Saying pin 1,2 etc wont help me, the connector (harness side) broke and i only have the 4 colored wires sitting. I get that two r for the heater circuit, one for o2 sensor and the last is ground. But apart from knowing the brown is ground. What r the others.

ST205

Just need a little help id-ing some wires.
The connector for the o2 sensor broke in my hands and now i need to know which wire (harness side) connects to which wire (sensor side), so if anyone could just pull theirs and let me know, that would be awesome.

Harness Side:

1. White
2. Black and Yellow
3. Blue and White
4. Brown


Sensor Side

1. White
2. Blue
3. Black
4. Black

I have tried a few combinations however am tired of blowing my efi (15A) fuse...

anyone seen those new smaller emanage blue units?

Hey guys,

I deactivated my ABS, does this affect my speedo, or is there a separate sensor in my gearbox.....

1995 Celica GT4 (ST205)

ok, moved on from the TPS to the MAP sensor.

Firstly, Is it correct to say the map sensor is what feeds the boost gauge (inside the stock cluster) info so that the needle goes up.

if so, I think the MAP Sensor is faulty;

* at 10 PSI the boost gauge needle goes above the last increment (almost looks like it wants to pop off....lol)

* anything above 10 PSI and at WOT once full boost hits the car misfires no matter the rpm (rich misfire...at 12psi boost - 54 psi fuel pressure)

* you can smell fuel

* gas mileage is horrible

...so i started testing the sensor. It is getting 4.97V fed to it. i only have a vacuum hand pump currently so i checked the vacuum side for errors in spec....all fell into good spec.

only to test it under +pressure now.

so while i wait to obtain a hand pump to test that....anyone have other advice on stuff to check....

U have a turbo sensor (map sensor) for sale??

89420-20310 or
89420-17050

May i ask what the correct range is, for the resistance that shud be observed in the plug wires (3rd gen 3sgte)

Lol u shud get the sleep man....i did short the wires in my description above, TE1 and E1 and got the constant flashing CEL....

Ok, so i position the tps based on the specs: engine is hunting at idle
I decided to check the base timing anyway: it was waaaaay gone not even in the area that has increments (car wont even drop its idle when the pins are shorted...it was still hunting between 1000-1300....but CEL was flashing so i imagine it was in the calibration mode)
I rotate the distributor to full retard: timing comes back as far as 16 btdc
So i loosen the tps (after marking the spot) and put it to full retard as well: timing goes to 5btdc and the car idles at 700-800 (the correct idle for base timing mode, i also cud move the distributor to the 10 if i wanted)

Instead

I turn the tps slowly to see if i cud catch the 10 using it (distributor is at full retard still): any movement at all away from the tps at full retard makes the timing advance back to 15-16

So i put the tps back to that full retard position and set the dizzy to get the right timing....got it to 10 btdc (pull out the shorting wire)

I go for a drive and get a few good pulls right up to redline but then after awhile, at WOT (running 10psi) i get misfires at 5000 and up rpm
It'll miss...continue pulling...miss some more...then continue pulling up to redline (i was so scared while doing it, but wanted to see if it wud clear up as i went higher)

But it isnt every time i go WOT this happens...sometimes it pulls perfectly up to red line and sometimes it does the other

I broke my laptop so i cant log info rite now to analyze, but from what i see right when it happens

AFR's in the 10's
Fuel pressure is ~54
Boost seems to hold steady (10psi)

If i raise the boost pressure to 12psi: Misfires happen right as it hits full boost @ WOT even before 5000

I put in new BKR6E plugs with 0.031" gap. Checked distributor and wires....

I used to run 16 psi and had BKR7E plugs with 0.028" gap perfectly fine.....sigh

Its the fact it doesnt always happen that is making it hard for me...