6G Celicas Forums

Hi Guys,

I have been going through the same issue for some time now (around 6 months) I had Fulcrum susspension have a look and they replaced the rack end. Issue wasn;t resolved so I thought it must be bearings or cv joint. I had someone else have a look and the rack end was in fact not replaced properly (not seated). Check the left rack end. These are notorious for "popping out". The noise I hear down low is a clunk when I turn the steering. At faster speeds I get continuous rotational vibration when steering is under load. That's my 2 cents, check it out

Awesome, thanks guys.

Hopefully won't oveboost anything today. lol

ok got the first bit. So i use the port that has the hose from the compressor. When does the other port from the actuator go to?

Hi Guys,

Installing a new electronic boost controller. Now, every one says it is the easiest thing, and I am sure I must have missed something simple.

On the CT-26 the are 2 ports coming off the wastegate actuator. One has a hose from the turbo and the other from the intake manifold. All images I can find for the installs on the net only have the one port.

Are both of these ports to be connected to the boost controller or is one port an in and the other an out?

Thanks

umm this is not true at all
20whp can be had up top with cams.
jim snoddgrass made 147whp tuned with cams.
a 5sfte with cams would be great, cause you really dont loose anything down low, and big gains are had up top.
[/quote]

So, what id the general consensus? Worth doing or not?

Seems to be worth it for an NA 5S-FE?

What would opinions be doing it for a 5S-FTE?

Alrighty then. Finally got the car back from the dyno after a 2 month wait.

Currently set up running 5psi boost. The 370cc injectors look like they will carry me all the way to 12psi. My ECU will only allow -25% correction on the injector pulse, so it is running a little rich at idle and cruise. Not to the point of any black smoke. Last dyno run, 116.5kw (156HP) at the front wheels. Will gradually start to wind it up further over the next few months. Waiting for run files to be emailed through. Will post in more detail and more pics in a few days.

Has to be turbo. I had a supercharger fitted for 8 months. wasn't happy with output. changed to turbo

I have used the same manifold and dump pipe and it looks absolutely sensational. I do have an issues though. The maninfold touches the bonnet. I have iserted some flexible heat shield to stop any heat transfer to the bonnet, but, I am not sure if that is enough. I am also considering throwing in a bonnet vent. One other thing you will need to do is cut one corner off the manifold as it interferes with our alternator mounts.

Pics in profile if you want to see.

Rebuilt is always a good idea. I purchased a used turbo that was supposedly recently rebuilt . Took it to a shop to check it out prior to installing. Turns out it needed a whole new housing due to cracks on the inside.

At least if it is rebuilt, you have a warranty and guarantee that it will work.

not yet, but i have only been for test runs thus far. Dyno tuner still not ready.

After I made the cut, I had the manifold ceramic coated to try and keep a bit of extra heat out.

But, yeh man, seams to be 100% fine at this stage.

yes it is a 9 bolt. and yes i did just cut the corner off where the alternator base mount is.

I read somewhere these were the same voltage as the 89420-17030. I purchased one brand new. They do not work. Voltage at 0PSI is .2v

Sorry guys. Still waiting for the dyno guys to get recertified to use Unichip ECU software. The expect they will be up and running next week. Fingers crossed.

Are you 100% positive that it's the oil pan leaking? I had an issue like this a while ago on my last car and I took the oil pan off twice and re-sealed it and it turned out to be a leak from the camshaft oil seal... Just running down the block.. and I didn't find that leak until I put a UV dye in the oil and then I traced it back to the camshaft seal.. u said it's on the trans side.. so maybe it's coming from your distributor?
[/quote]

Cool, have a backup option if it is my poor sealing, thanks

To be honest I am presumming the second issue is from the sump. The first issue was definately the sump (after pulling off the sump, I could actually see an oil flow between the silicone), and this seems to be coming from the same place. I have checked out the rear of the block and it doesn't seam to be coming down the back of the block (it actually drips out of the fly inspection plate).

Not coming from the dizzy. I like the idea of the UV dye to track it down 100%.

FYI, there were no leaks prior to changing the sump.

No oil warning light. Not sure how else to check the crank pressure, however, can't see what would have been changed to affect the crank pressure. Have tapped into the oil pressure switch for a turbo oil feel. Unless the return line is building up pressure, but once again, cannot see how it would.

Hi Guys,

Have been having an issue sealing my sump (swapped from 5s-fe to 3s-gte). As we know, sump is the same as the 5s-fe except with the oil return hose input on the new sump.

I have now sealed the sump (with corret silastic) twice with the same result. A small leak down the back and on the clutch side. Is being sealed as per manual instructions.

Before I pull it off yet again, does anyone know of any issues / complications that I may be overlooking?

Starting to get frustrated with little issues stopping me from a trip to the dyno with the new turbo install

Thanks heaps!!!

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I am using a unichip ecu. Whilst the unichip is a sensational ECU, with an immense amount of features like traction control, 5th injector controller, intercooler spray controller, nos controller,, etc... there is an issue with the amount of tuners that can dyno them due the to custom software. In Brisbane there are only 2 tuners. 1 of them i don't like. They have their heead so far up their arse. The other just sold to a new dude and he has to be recertified so I am still another week away from hitting the dyno. damn damn.

It has however given me the chance to track down a small oil leak i had with the oil relocation filter. Replaced all the hose with steel braid (now up to about $600 worth of braid and fittings). Looks mickey mouse.

The other thing that might want to be considered. I am using an MR2 stainless manifold. It runs alot higher (closer to the bonnet) than the standard manifold and heat was becoming an issue. I expected this may be an issue from the start so I had the manifold and dump pipe HPC coated (ceramic) to keep the heat down. Ended up cutting a square out of the bonnet lining and lining the bonnet with formshield (neoprene with aluminium lining). Seams to have done the trick.

FYI, I will only be running 7psi for the 3-4 months to ensure everyhting is working as it should.

Possibly. Some of the unichip ecu's have traction control built in. Maybe this was enabled? There are a heap of features on the unichip i am still learning about. eg. traction, intercooler sprayer, dual fuel maps, dual ingnition maps, 5th injector controller etc.

In the grand scheme of things, the custom oil and water feeds are a very simple and relatively inexpensive part of the project. Seems a little strange to try to remove a cooling solution when it is very easy and cheap to implement.

haha, 2.0 wrx imprezza club spec. that is the wife's car. we both dig our cars

I got the GSS-341 to work but it doesn't sit in the pump bracket correctly. A zip tie was added for peace of mind.


[size=2]I also used a zip tie to ensure the pump didn't move from the mount. I started thinging later though, fuel, plastic, maybe not the best mix.

Does anyone know if the zip tie should remain in place without melting away from the fuel?

Hi Guys,

Firstly, would just like to thank all for the help provided in putting together my 5s-fte. Not quite 100% finished (off to the dyno tomorrow)

A couple of images uploaded in my profile.

First thing I would like to mention. There has been a heap of discussion in regards to injectors. Will know exactly how my choice went tomorrow, but I may have found a pretty good solution. RC Engineering put out a set of 370cc injectors. Required to buy matching plugs but a very easy replacement.

Quick rundown of the job and issues faced.

Due to the info provided in these forums, the install was a heap easier that would be expected. I cannot underestimate to value of all the research that everyone has gone into here.

Turbo itself along with the exhaust and intercooler plumbing was fairly easy.

Huge issues faced when changing the sump. Who ever designed the subframe should be shot. 1 1/2 days in the end to change the sump. Highly recommend research this section fairly well prior to frustraing yourself pulling and shoving bits that simply won't move.

Oil Filter - Should have cottoned on to the fact I would need to move this due to pressure2 having to install a relocation kit. But I didn't and hence set the install back a few more days whilst waiting for parts. Not a huge issue apart from the oil hoses passing the dump pipe very closely.

Cracked the oil jacket around the oil pressure sensor but stupidly tightening the new fitting too far. Nothing a little metal repair putty couldn't fix (was fine for idle but am yet to see if this will hold up with a bit of abuse. Failing the putty, will throw a weld over the top to seal).

Cruise Control. Noticed that a lot a cruise control units were being taken out, so I removed mine prior to the install and relocated to the other side of the engine bay (look for a red box type frame). Works great, no issues at all.

Went with the MR2 turbo manifold and this due to the angle on it, it puts itself very close to the hood of the car. I have had both the manifold and dump pipe ceramic coated so should reduce the temps somewhat. Will have to watch closely after taking for a few drives. Little conerned about how close the first group of turbo piping come to the manifold but until I put a nice big vent in the bonnect to create a bit more room, not too much I can do just yet.

Anyway, I will leave this for now. If there are any questions, or comments, lets throw them around.

I will post the dyno sheets after complete the *hopefully* successful runs tomorrow.

Racelogic Traction Control - the Supra guys swear by it.

In regards to the racelogic traction control.

I spoke with the local distributor in Australia. Parts + Fitting = AUD$2900 (approx US$2150)

These things sound HOT!

The unit works by reading the wheel speeds sensors in the ABS setup (very easy to add the sonsor if you don't have ABS). It reads in 1/1000 second intervals so it is very responsive. When it detects a slip from the wheels speed sonsor, it skips an injector cycle (for all intents let just say this is like a misfire, but without the fuel).

The greatest thing about the unit is not only do you have 0% slip, 10% slip, 20% slip etc settings for the traction control buts you also get 2 other awesome features thrown in.

1. Launch Control (check out the racelogic site for the supra drag vid) Maintains a preset rev level for rising of boost prior to launch.

2. Flat shifting. a switch on the clutch pedal recognises the clutch is depressed, and limits the rev to a preset level with your foot still flat on the throttle (maintaining boost)

So whilst it seams pretty bloddy expensive, all 3 features make it a solution worth saving for, for my setup.

hmmm. do you know if there is something we can use larger than the 315cc from the supra, but smaller than the 440 off the RX7. I am using a piggy ECU, and my tuner thinks that 440cc may be too big to control whilst not under boost. Would prefer larger than 315 though.

It was actually an electric supercharger. Wasn't happy with it so it was only in for 3 months