6G Celicas Forums

Is this one of those things that should be replaced with a Toyota part? Or would a Rock auto part do the trick?

If you can find a Toyota sensor for not much more than the aftermarket ones I'd do that, but if not any reputable aftermarket brand sensor will be fine. It's just a thermistor, not much to screw up.

Tried to clean the IACV last night. Managed to get the throttle body off the car (damn that was a pain), and it was pretty dirty on the inside and around the butterfly valve so I cleaned that up as best I could.



I could not for the life of me get these screw out. First one stripped fairly quickly, and the second was starting to as well. It seems toyotas used some pretty soft screws here.

I had at it with just a screw driver, and no luck. I soaked it with PB blaster last night, and this morning as well. Going to hopefully try it again with either a screw driver or Phillips head in a socket and hope one of those will get the job done. Otherwise, i ma yhave to take it somewhere to have these screws removed, and then find replacements.

It's JIS not Philips!!!!

^What he said, though if you're careful you can use a right angled Phillips screwdriver to get them out. Or just buy a JIS screwdriver set for like $20 off Amazon.

Impact driver.

I managed to get it off. Soaked it with PB blaster Monday night, Tuesday morning before work, and after work, and then cracked them all Tuesday evening. used a #2 phillips (Or maybe #1, I don't recal) socket in a ratchet and it cracked right off.

Now when it comes to cleaning the IACV, I was reading on a ToyotaNation thread, to remove the electrical plug, and the you will then be able to rotate the valve to completely clean the inside. There seems to be a gooey gum-leak sealant between the plug and the valve itself


You can kind of see it oozing out between the connection here. Anyone know what type of sealant this is? I'd like to be able to re-assemble this after cleaning correctly to avoid issues.

Or would the better option be to go from the opposite end, remove the end cap, and clean from this side:

If I recall correctly underneath that is a spring and magnet, so be careful removing it, and you can see the screw holes are notched so you can rotate the assembly. It's dielectric grease, or at least that's what I figured it to be when I rebuilt mine and that's what I used.

This post has been edited by Box: Jun 7, 2017 - 4:55 PM

The plate needs to be indexed to where it came off and go back to the same place. The plate holds a heat sensitive spring which sets base idle should the IAC fail and is balanced against the solenoid in some way, if it's off it'll idle high or have a bouncing idle.

Thanks for the input guys.
Maybe ill just leave it together, and clean it as best I can without completely disassembling it. It wasn't TOO carbon'd up anyways when I took a look inside.

Pull the solenoid end off. You can reseal with silicone I think but there's an oring maybe sealing it. Been forever.

It's been years now since I did mine too, I remember a "frog face" gasket ring at some point.

That's the IAC to TB gasket.

Finally got it all cleaned up and back together. Had to wait over the weekend for IACV gasket and TB gasket to come in to Toyota.

Drove it for about a hour last night and it seems to run smoothly. However, got home let it sit for about 15-20 min. Engine was still warm, but not right at operating temp (middle of the temp gauge) and sure enough, it wouldn't start. Just cranked and cranked almost as if there was no fuel. About 10 min later of sitting, it did start up after giving it some throttle. Used the throttle to hold it idle for 10-15 seconds, and then it idled normal, as it should.

Next up is to change the coolant temp sensor I suppose, as others have recommended in this thread.

Well I managed to replace the coolant temp sensor, and have been driving the car a few times a week.
I'm fairly confident that the issue has been solved.

I've gone on a couple long drives 1 hour - 2 hours, with a couple 10-15 minute breaks in between. This is usually when the car would have the most trouble, when it has had a chance to cool down a bit, but was still warm. And so far I haven't had any issues.

There was one instance right after changing it where the car had a bit of a rough idle upon starting, however I didn't need to use any throttle to get it to run, but a bit of throttle smoothed out the idle. This has been the only issue that's come up, and it was only once.

I'm not 100% convinced yet, that it's completely solved as i don't want to get my hopes up, but it seems to have solved the issue.

Hooray, sounds like you got it.

It does sound like it.
Thanks to all the assistance you provided. THose charts and readings at the start of this thread really helped me.

No problem, glad could be of some help.