6G Celicas Forums

How to install GT-FOUR raiser blocks
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Tools used:
- A set of pics or a flat screwdriver
- A ratchet with 10mm and 12mm sockets
- Adhesive Remover (or GooGone) Spray and a cleaning rag
- A Hand Saw
- A Power Drill with 15/64" Drill Bit
- A 'super' long Phillips Screwdriver (kinda overexaggerated) 10" is fine
Optional: A long magnet to pick up screws dropped inside the block




Parts needed:

- The GT-Four Raiser Blocks themselves
- 4 x 90159-60414 Screw ($.52 USD each) or any 4 short, stubby screws/bolts that have deep threading.



Optional:
- 1 x 76882-20090 Spoiler Gasket RH
- 1 x 76881-20090 Spoiler Gasket LH



Image taken from Complete information for SS-III replica makers by malpaso.



Note: You can PM vincent_doggy for GT-FOUR raiser blocks, keep a look out on eBay for a pair, or buy new from the dealer (ie. 1sttoyotaparts.com) using Part Numbers: 76087-20916 and 76088-20914 ($262.48 for both)






Intro
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I bought my GT-FOUR blocks a little over a year now and have been waiting for this summer to install them. They are replicas of the authentic version and they fit satisfyingly well.

The pic below is how it looked right out of the box.


Here's how they look during its prepping stage.


After being painted.









Procedures
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1. Remove the lower hatch trim cover. For this you can just use your hands or you can use the picks.






2. Remove the lower hatch trim. For this I used my hands but you can also use the picks or flathead screwdriver. There are a total of 14 clips. There are two clips directly in front of the cover opening. Then work your way around. I would recommend using your hands and push down from the inside center. By using the screwdriver and pulling from the edges, you may risk damaging the trim plastic or even the clips.








3. Remove these rubber plugs on both sides. Behind them there's a 10mm bolt holding the spoiler.






4. Using the ratchet with the 10mm socket, remove the two 10mm bolts holding the spoiler on each side.






5. Remove the spoiler. It should easily come right off.




I kinda like that spoilerless look.. hmmm.....





6. Notice a white peg attached on the bottom of the spoiler. These will need to be sawed off both sides with the handsaw because the replica spoiler blocks doesn't have a hole to support these. But you can skip this step if you have a pair of authentic OEM blocks.






7. Drill holes through the bottom of the spoiler. There are two little markings or indents to show 5here you should drill. For this part, use the 15/64" drill bit.








8. Use that long screwdriver and place the screw to the tip vertically upward. Then insert it into one of the holes of the block (I chose to do the deeper side first). Then flip it over and screw it in to the spoiler.




If you're wondering about the original spoiler gasket, you can just leave it on.. i tried removing mine only to find out that it's stuck on there. after i pulled on it, it started to tear, so i just left it on.




9. Now you'll need to screw in the other hole. You can either flip the entire spoiler over and repeat step 10. But what i did was i used double-sided tape and stuck the screw in place. Getting the screw into the hole through the block and spoiler is probably the hardest step. If you happen to lose the screw, just use the magnet to pull it out.. or you can flip it, shake it until it comes out of the hole.



Here's how they look inside with the screws in place.


and here's how the whole spoiler looks after.





10. Prior to putting the spoiler on the hatch. Be sure to remove the dirt left under. You can use a moist cleaning rag and simply wipe it off. But for the adhesive leftover, use the adhesive remover spray, or you can use a warm damp rag and wipe it off.



This is where you apply the spoiler gaskets (if you bought them) and stick them onto the bottom of the raiser blocks.




11. Now place the spoiler onto the hatch ensuring that the holes line up with the bottom side.







12. Install the bolts back on. Once on, try opening and closing the hatch. If you hear some rattling when you close the hatch shut. It means the bolts aren't tightened hard enough. Slowly tighten them as you'll hear some of the fiberglass from the blocks starting to crisp. It just comes to show the tension being applied as the screw pulls on to the block. When you no longer hear the buzzing or rattling, then you know they are tight enough.






13. Now don't get too excited, you still have to put the hatch trim back on. It's pretty straight forward, just line up the clips and push on them.







14. Reattach the trim cover.






15. And plug in the rubber plugs.






16. Congrats! You are now finished!








Total Time:
3 hours including breaks (haha, yeah i took some believe it or not), all the picture taking and finding which drill bit works best with the screws.
but if i were to do it again, it would probably take only 1 hour or less







The End Result
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Before and After











This concludes the installation of the GT-FOUR spoiler blocks






Other Spoiler How-To Threads:
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- Converting from a 3-Post Spoiler (96-99) to a 2-Post Spoiler (94-95) by 97lestyousay

- Converting from a 2 or 3-Post Spoiler to No Spoiler (Spoilerless) by hurley97







any questions? just post.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 13, 2010 - 9:02 AM