6G Celicas Forums

So i was driving to school like any other day and when i parked my car, i noticed it seemed like my gears were locked up. I didn't really think much of it and just turned my car off and went to class. Finished class and came back to my car to drive home, *note*-my car was in first when i started it*, so i drove off and all the way home fine, about a 30 mins drive down the highway. When I'm almost home, i stop to get some gas and when i start the car back up, it starts up real shaky and I can't shift into any gears. I turn the car off and notice i can shift through all the gears perfectly when it's off, so i put it in first and start it back up, the car immediately starts moving when i start it. I end up driving the car home in 2nd, not stopping the whole way cause if I do the car will stall. If I shifted gears while driving, it was really rough, like i'm powershifting into gears.

I figure, it's gotta be the low fluids, air in the system, clutch slave, clutch master, or the clutch itself. So I knock out the easy one's first. Fluid was good and I bled the system, still can't shift. Before I go spending any money, I try testing the clutch to see if that is the problem. I start the car in 5th and drop the clutch, the car stalls out right away, so I figured the clutch was still good, especially since it hasn't been slipping or anything lately. I replace the clutch slave, thought what the heck, 19 bucks...didn't help though, so I try replacing the clutch master. Re-bled the system after putting the clutch master in, but that didn't help either. Lastly, I try adjusting the clutch master behind the clutch pedal, thinking maybe it isn't pumping enough fluid, but that didn't make a difference either. The only think I could think it would be is if the line for the fluid between the slave and master is leaking somewhere, but when I press in the clutch and hold it, I notice that the clutch slave is holding constant pressure, so I don't think there is a leak in the line. I am all out of ideas, I'm assuming now that it's something with the clutch, it has to be....

anyone else have any ideas before I take it to the shop to pay massive labor cost?

okay, so I just read Griffgirl's older thread http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;hl=gears+lock

looks like she had the same exact problem that I do, so i'm gonna pretty much assume that I need a new clutch setup. Awww man, ashame I can't do that myself! i really don't feel like blowing a grand on that.....but if i have to...

Yeah, it totally sounds like what happened to me. Expect to spend around $600 for parts and labor at a shop - I don't remember if there's clutchmasters back in MD, but if there is, go there, they're generally the cheapest. Sorry I don't know any good mechanics in MD. If you tell me where in MD you are, I could probably find you a referral pretty easily though.

New clutch. Happen to me already. Try and save up a few extra dollars to avoid the pep boys or autozone clutches.

I live in Harford County Maryland, Abingdon to be more precise.

My brother-in-law actually has a shop and if they have an available lift for afew hours, i may just do the job myself there. Save a few hundred bucks on labor
if so, guess i'm gonna learn how to put in a clutch real soon

if they don't have an open lift, guess i'll just take it somewhere.



btw, quick question. Should I just go ahead and put an OEM stock clutch back in or should i bother getting a stage 1,2,3 clutch? I'm assuming since they are made to take more power, that they would last longer, even though I don't really need a staged clutch since i have a stock engine. I just figured, while I'm down there, I might as well put in something that is gonna last the longest amount of time.
Just curious.....

-thanks

If you want to put in something that will go the distance and last the longest, go with and OEM replacement rather than a staged clutch. The stage clutches from what I understand are great, but they don't last as long (by nature of what they are, not a quality issue or anything) and are really intended to be most benefited by an engine with good HP.

I put in an Exedy OEM replacement, and I've been extremely happy with it. ACT is a good brand too, although IIRC they only make staged clutches, not OEM replacement. The Exedy won't cost you any more than your generic NAPA clutch, either. $120 for mine, for a 7A-FE engine. I think it's the same price for a 5S-FE engine too.

I have the BGB instructions on how to do the clutch, in an easy and alluring PDF if you want. PM me your email address if you want it and I'll shoot it right over.

Edit - PS: I have NO idea where Abingdon is! I'm guessing it's either western or southern Maryland? I'm from the Silver Spring/Rockville area originally. I still talk to some people back there, although it's been probably longer than you've been alive since I've been back LOL

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Nov 5, 2008 - 12:31 PM

It's actually north east of Silver Spring/Rockville area, little past Baltimore.

Thanks for all the info! And i'll be sure to pm you my email for that PDF file, just incase i do the job myself.

i ended up putting the clutch in myself, at my brother in law's shop. Nice of him to let me use their lift for a few hours.



got the car up in the air nice and early




luckly i had helpers




got everything out of the way in order to drop the trans. It really wasn't that much.... splash gaurds, tires/brakes, battery, starter, axels(only half way off), motor mounts and a few bolts here and there.
This is everything we took out to get to the trans, hardest part was the motor mounts, but they were actually pretty easy, thanks to a few peices of 2x4's we used to support the trans, hehe




now to tackle the fun part, taking the trans down...




a few blocks of wood and this thing, sure made taking the trans down a lot easier




and the problem...clutch pad has a lot of life left to it, but the bearings not so much




new clutch in




clean up the inside of the trans some...




whole job cost $175. $142 clutch , $13 breakfast, $20 lunch
I'm not gonna lie, the job did take us like 10 hours, though we did fool around a lot and it was the first time any of us have ever done a clutch. It went pretty smoothly though, now to just break in the new clutch

This post has been edited by Rymaster: Nov 9, 2008 - 9:57 PM

Wow I have the exact same problem you do... I went to school then drove home and when I went to go back to school I could start the car in neutral but not put it into gear and if I started it in gear the car would shoot forward. Its clear to me that I need a new clutch but i don't know if I'm mechanicly inclined enough to do it myself