6G Celicas Forums

... i think we need a sticcy about bleeding brakes, seriously would totally make sense... lol plus the fact that i need to bleed my brakes and i cant seem to get it right haha, so if someone could uh... enlightemn me, it would be appreciated
haha, thanks in advance

open hood
Lift car
Take off tire
take off rubber cover on the bleeder nut/bolt thingy
Loosen the bleeder nut/bolt thingy on the caliper
place a can, cup, bottle, something to catch the fluid
and start pressing the brake pedal
check fluid tank and fill brake fluid when needed.

when satisfied tighten the bleeder nut/bolt thingy
remove can, bottle, etc......
put back the rubber cover
put back tire


repeat^^^^^

ok perhaps i shouldve mentioned that i need to bleed the brake master cylinder as well...
so, whats involved with that

can you bleed the master?????
I dont think i tried or heard.........

but then again im still learning

Not that Ive ever had to bleed the master cylinder, but why would you need to do it? BTW, when you do the brakes, bleed from the furthest point from the master cylinder first. Usually the passenger rear tire first, then on from there....
Ok, so I did find something..here you go.
(a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
© Block off the outlet plug with your finger and release the
brake pedal.
(d) Repeat (b) and © 3 or 4 times.

This post has been edited by Spider77: Mar 19, 2009 - 6:56 PM

the way i do mine is with two person

1) Losen the bleed screw
2) Have the other person pump the brake pedal 3 times
3) On the third brake pump - Hold it in and you tighten up the screw (also to make sure you get a nice stream of brake fluid come out and no air bubbles) then release brake after tighten
4) Repeat same procedure on the other 3.

Ok, here is what I do.


-Put the car up on jackstands if possible, it just makes it easier than having to go wheel to wheel moving the jack and what not.
-Start on the passenger rear wheel, then drivers rear, then drivers front, and then passenger front.


-Loosen bleeder screw and pump pedal until you get a nice flow of brake fluid, and once you get a nice stream, hold the pedal down and tighten screw. Do this to every wheel, and after the last one, re-fill the master cylinder reservoir.

Also, do not over tighten the screw because you could snap it off.

A tip is to use some small hose on the bleeder screw to direct the fluid into a bottle. I like to use an empty water bottle myself so you can easily see it.

Considering that the master cylinder is on the driver side, you may want to switch around the way you were going to do the front (ie Rear Pass, Rear Driver, Front Pass, Front Driver). While you doing it, check between each "wheel" to make sure you dont empty the master cylinder. As far as the stream, I'll go with what 2bCelica said, air bubbles. You can get what seems to be a good stream, but you want to make sure it dosent bubble.

go buy a 15$ "speed bleeder kit" if you are trying to do it yourself, that way you don't suck a bunch of air back into the system when you release the pedal. ot spend about 50$ and buy a vaccum bleeder kit so you don't even have to use the pedal...

This post has been edited by brthrurik: Mar 21, 2009 - 10:32 AM

as far as i know when you bleed the brakes, you are bleeding it for the brake system. all it is air that gets into the system that needs to get pushed back out, thus bleeding the system.

Wow, alot of posts for something as simple as bleeding the brakes. Its not that in depth, you dont need "speed bleeders" or anything fancy. You just need two people. Just make sure you get the air out of the system and dont let the master cylinder get empty.

someone pump the brakes and one bleeds the air out.



you dont need anything like this, this is just regular maintenance on brakes pretty common stuff. BTW if you just changed only the pads, you didnt need to let the air into the system. Bleeding is only needed when you change calipers, master cylinder, etc. If it is only the pads you changed, all you had to do was c-clamp it to push the pistons back in.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Mar 21, 2009 - 11:06 AM

hmm ive been wanting to do this for a while. my front disc brakes squeal. will getting new brake fluid into the car improve stopping distance along with brake pedal feel.

3) On the third brake pump - Hold it in and you tighten up the screw (also to make sure you get a nice stream of brake fluid come out and no air bubbles) then release brake after tighten (What does this mean?)

And when bleeding brakes do you bleed the fluid all the way out of one side (like the rear passenger side) is there a certain amount of fluid on each side. Do you bleed system until there is no more in the master cylinder and your brake system.

New brake fluid is not going to fix your problems, and when you bleed you DON'T do it until there is no more in the master cylinder. It won't improve your stopping distance or anything either, if someone told you that they are flat out wrong. If you do it til there is no more in the master cylinder then you just pumped even more air into the lines, and that is what you are getting out. If your brakes squeak just get some brake grease for the back of the pads and/or new pads, grease the caliper slides, and get your rotors turned if they need it.

alright naw i just thought bleeding brakes would make the breaks feel factory new. alright i bought cnc stuff. thats in a red can. but thanks for that info.

I think the only thing that will give you a better response as far as brakes go, are going to be the stainless flex lines. If your brakes are a squealing, then it might be time to replace them, thats what the squeal shim is for afterall.

naw i just got ebay slotted, and drilled front rotos along with semi-metalic pads like 5,000 miles ago. so thats not the issue. hopefully i broke them in right. ill clean pads and disc and then put the stuff to stop making it squeal. and if that doesnt work. im going to get rotors inspected, hopefully they aren't warped.

getting these brakelines are just fine right. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-s...121210010r16119

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 23, 2009 - 11:40 PM

YOu don't need those brake lines and slotted rotors with the setup you have. I would save up the money first to get the performance.

naw im not getting the brake lines, just throwing that out there. but ya im not spending any more money on my car for over 2 years. only maintenance parts..

if you pump the brakes with the bleeder loose your gonna push air and fluid out and suck air back in. you should have the bleeder close when pumping, hold the pedal and loosen the bleeder. then tighten it back up. when its just a stream of fluid coming out then that corner is done. if you do it yourself get a container and poor brake fluid in it. then loosen the bleeder and connect a hose to it and put the other end in the container so that it is under the level of the brake fluid. then slowly pump the brake. when you push down the air will get push out and because its in brake fluid it will suck the fluid back in instead of air. when you stop getting air bubbles when pumping your done with that corner.