6G Celicas Forums

car dies its somthing electrical

This post has been edited by mk7celica: Feb 1, 2010 - 11:20 PM

well defiantly if there's something causing excessive resistance it will produce heat mechanically or electrically

the only big wire going to your alternator is the power wire... about 8ga?...

first replace alternator then have battery tested.

buy 4ga wire and a inline 100amp fuse and connect it directly to your battery. f the bs

This post has been edited by southwest2118: Jan 6, 2010 - 8:18 PM

Sounds like a plan thanks

Does a 5sfe alternator bolt up to a 3sgte an bracket? I think it does cause the one on here now looks like a 5sfe does a 5sfe alternator have a triangle shaper plug with 3 wires?

The 5sfe alternator bolts right up however it uses an oval plug. You might need to grab one of those plugs from tweak or the junk yard and wire it in.

Then just buy a remanufactured 5sfe alternator from an automatic celica gt. The automatics get an 80amp alternator vs the crappy 70amp one for the manuals. Thats what Im using on my car.

Quick Question, I am about to run a new wire from the alt to the battery right. Well My question is you know the alt fuse in the fuse box The big blue one. Well by me running the new wire with a fuse directly to the battery from the alt does the eliminate the alternator fuse in the box I am talking about? Or is that still needed?

you keep all the factory stuff in place. All you are doing is adding a new helper wire with its own fuse.

Same thing happend.

Replace alternator.


Doc sent me the parts for free.

This post has been edited by 99GT: Jan 16, 2010 - 12:21 PM

It sounds like you melted your ground wire, you need to check on that and make absolutely sure you've got a good ground or else you're just going to keep running into problems.

So I ran a new wire and put the old alternator in to see and It ran good for about 1 hour then the car shut off again. I barlet made it home. So the next day I go to drive it and it ran fine but I only drove it in 20 minutes or so periods just going places though out the day. Then I drive it longer an in a hour or so it cut off again. I am using the same alternator with a new fuse and wire run So I figure its a bad alternator also it seems the alternator kinda gets hot still so I am thiking its over heating and the car kills then cool an the car runs fine. Well today ?/I get the alternator checked at autozone and it checked out ok. But The alternator test only was for 30 seconds at a time an it was about 5 times.

Is it possible it would check out fine because its not running long ebough on the test. and is bad but only when it heats up after a while?
I dont want to buy a new alternator if I dont have to. Also the heater seems to make it kill faster meaning more of a pull on the alternator. acually any electronic device when on in the car seems to make the alternator over faster. Any I deas? I looked at the ground to the battery looks fine and the ground going to the alternator housing it to looks fine.

wideband at 17 help

Check ALL of your ground wires, there's more than just the ground from the alternator and the ground off the battery. On the right side of the engine, near the fuel rail (the left side of the engine bay when you're facing it) there's a ground wire that runs from the motor to the strut tower, with a plastic connector to connect the wire off the tower to the wire off the motor. There's also a ground on the left strut tower, it's like a 14 gauge wire; also from the top of the tranny to the battery, as well as one from the battery to the chassis of the car near the front bumper.

I had a similar problem to yours last winter, and it turned out that that connector had completely melted and I lost the ground, which in turn made me actually unable to even START my car. It could be that one of your other ground wires is compromised in some way.

sounds like you still have an alternator problem. get a multimeter and google how to do some basic alternator tests with it to see what kind of voltage it puts out.

Wideband reading lean at idle normally is a sign of a bad (obvious) vac leak, but concentrate on one problem at a time.

So I tested the alternator when it was first started and it measured fine. So I waited for it to heat up with the engine and after a good 20 minutes the car started to die and the alternator measured almost half of what it should have been. So i guess I need a new alternator

i hope your Wideband is reading wrong... 13 is lean.... 17 is your engine already blew up lol. Replace alt, replace all the grounds (especially grounding the Ecu/Injectors/Intake), test the charge on the battery.

Ordered new ayternator should be here tommorow evening. I found that the wideband only reads 17 when the car is about to die and after it dies. But after it dies and it cools an I reset the ecu it reads fine. Also thought it was my ignitor unplugged it and plugged it back in an I made the wideband rad 17 till I reset the ecu. I reall think its to do with the alternator an some how its messing with the ecu and electrical system. Will find out by tommorow night after the alternator goes in.

Fix one problem at a time. You'll notice that a lot of things are related.

New alternator went in an still did the same. I finished late an it was dark an I noticed that my head lights are flickering bright to brighter also my dash lighyts do the same when I rev the engine. Also the battery light on the dash comes on every once in a while but for a split second an kinda flickers for a split second. Does this sound like a ground issue?

So Any suggestions? Tommorow I am off an plan on checking an redoing all grounds. And new battery cables.
Is there any other electrical part that has anything to do with the alternator and battery? My other car had a bad regulator when the lights dimmed, but the regulator is built in the alternator on this engine right?

Ok 2 questions can someone give me a list of all ground spots and if there is anyother electrical parts that go with the 3sgte. Like regulator ect? Thanks

Its fixed its fixed I am so happy.