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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
My idle varies between 650 and 900 rpm and is a bit rough (The steering wheel is quite shaky), but as soon as I give it some gas (Just a LITTLE, around 950-1000rpm or more) it becomes a lot smoother and the steering wheel stops shaking.
I was wondering if changing the fuel filter and reseting the ECU could solve the problem? Thanks! This post has been edited by dudeofchaos: Oct 12, 2010 - 11:34 PM |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Mar 22, '10 From Philippines Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
you could try that. it works sometimes.
you could also try to clean the throttle by spraying carb cleaner or something similar. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 15, '10 From The Best Coast Currently Offline Reputation: 12 (100%) ![]() |
Check your plugs, and clean/replace them if needed. How old is your iginition system?Also your timing might be screwed up.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) ![]() |
You should be able to adjust the idle speed via a small screw on the TB. I read that in my Haynes repair manual.
-------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 9, '08 From Blainville Currently Offline Reputation: 4 (100%) ![]() |
Check your plugs, and clean/replace them if needed. How old is your iginition system?Also your timing might be screwed up. My plugs are brand new. I changed them a couple of months ago, it was still hapenning when I just replaced them. Maybe I should change my wiring set. You should be able to adjust the idle speed via a small screw on the TB. I read that in my Haynes repair manual. What does ''TB'' stand for? Throttle Body I guess? you could try that. it works sometimes. you could also try to clean the throttle by spraying carb cleaner or something similar. Yeah, I should clean it. Is it hard to do? This post has been edited by dudeofchaos: Oct 13, 2010 - 1:17 AM |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Mar 22, '10 From Philippines Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
you could try that. it works sometimes. you could also try to clean the throttle by spraying carb cleaner or something similar. Yeah, I should clean it. Is it hard to do? nope! you just remove the intake hose or pipe. then with the engine running you spray the card cleaner and at the same time pull the acellerator cable to about 3000 rpm. but if you really want it real clean, you have to take out many parts. and that is hard to do. you could just do this when there are other things you need to do like replacing valve cover gasket, etc. |
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Enthusiast ![]() Joined Aug 8, '09 From Toronto, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
you could try that. it works sometimes. you could also try to clean the throttle by spraying carb cleaner or something similar. Yeah, I should clean it. Is it hard to do? nope! you just remove the intake hose or pipe. then with the engine running you spray the card cleaner and at the same time pull the acellerator cable to about 3000 rpm. but if you really want it real clean, you have to take out many parts. and that is hard to do. you could just do this when there are other things you need to do like replacing valve cover gasket, etc. Hi, I did all of the stuff above, full tune up, clean ICV, throttle etc...Changed both motor mounts! Yet I would still get a occasional low idle situation. Then one day my car quit, she shut right off. I thought fuel pump etc... Turns out it was ignition problem. My co-worker and I narrowed it down to a bad secondary coil in the distributor. I had 2 options. Grab a 35 dollar coil and replace it, the one in the dizzy , or get a whole new dizzy for 150. Well due to time constraints I got a whole new dizzy for 150 and now my car does not hesitate or have any rpm issue. Smooth Also, check how much slack do you have in your throttle cable. Adjust it so there is no slack and that should help in smoother acceleration... It took me almost a year to pin point the issue Car in subject is a 94 Celica GTS 5SFE you could try that. it works sometimes. you could also try to clean the throttle by spraying carb cleaner or something similar. Yeah, I should clean it. Is it hard to do? nope! you just remove the intake hose or pipe. then with the engine running you spray the card cleaner and at the same time pull the acellerator cable to about 3000 rpm. but if you really want it real clean, you have to take out many parts. and that is hard to do. you could just do this when there are other things you need to do like replacing valve cover gasket, etc. Hi, I did all of the stuff above, full tune up, clean ICV, throttle etc...Changed both motor mounts! Yet I would still get a occasional low idle situation. Then one day my car quit, she shut right off. I thought fuel pump etc... Turns out it was ignition problem. My co-worker and I narrowed it down to a bad secondary coil in the distributor. I had 2 options. Grab a 35 dollar coil and replace it, the one in the dizzy , or get a whole new dizzy for 150. Well due to time constraints I got a whole new dizzy for 150 and now my car does not hesitate or have any rpm issue. Smooth Also, check how much slack do you have in your throttle cable. Adjust it so there is no slack and that should help in smoother acceleration... It took me almost a year to pin point the issue Car in subject is a 94 Celica GTS 5SFE And this is the part that was messed up, the coil in the dizzy http://www.bestpricecarparts.ca/ShopByVehi...oil&mode=PD Get that or get a whole new dizzy if you have not done a tune up yet. Look around your area at local Jap car parts places for best deal. I payed $145 CDN here in Toronto. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Mar 26, '10 From Portsmouth, OH Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
try a new distributor cap and rotar button
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) ![]() |
try a new distributor cap and rotar button X2 - It amazes me the amount of people that spend high dollar on namebrand spark plugs and wires and then either cheap out [Ie. non-OEM] Cap and rotor or don't replace them at all. If you don't replace the cap and rotor you have only done half the ignition system tuneup. I also cannot stress enough that OEM Cap and Rotors are the ONLY ones you should be putting on these cars. These engines really respond poorly to autozone or w/e cap and rotors. -------------------- ![]() ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) ![]() |
You should be able to adjust the idle speed via a small screw on the TB. I read that in my Haynes repair manual. What does ''TB'' stand for? Throttle Body I guess? Yeah, throttle body -------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
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