6G Celicas Forums

So I was driving to work yesterday and my battery light came on. This has happened a few times, but never solid. Then I noticed my volt meter was reading REALLY low. I got to work fine, but ended up leaving early to go buy a new alternator and Optima Redtop... At the tune of $410.


Replaced the battery first, because it's easy, and the voltage was still low. Spent an hour or so wedging the new alternator into the bay and my voltage came back to normal. Horay!


I also raised the front passenger side of the car a bit. While turning, the front wheel has hit the fender a couple times, which makes me sad. I put some heat on the fender lip and rolled it back into place.

What kind of sway bars do you have? Stock? trd? ST? Or what swaybars have you got your eyes set on?

Never ST... not on the MR2 at least.

the ST sways are 216% stiffer than stock, and are prone to ripping out the sway bar mounts on the chassis up front. ST sways are nice when compensating for low spring rate springs like OEM.


I'm looking at the Whiteline sway bars. They're solid 20mm bars, which makes them slightly beefier than the hollow 22mm TRD bars. They're 50ish% stiffer than stock. At present I am holding off, since I just dropped some serious dough on my CF lip.

Is that a madpsi lip? Yeh i heard about all that with the mounts but can be corrected with delta v re-enforcement plates. Yeh read that the ST sway bars are too thick and just oversteers

Yeh that looks like a madpsi lip. They are pretty expensive to get in australia over $1000 in total. Any plans on colour coding the black side strip?

This post has been edited by whatthe: May 24, 2011 - 12:55 PM

It's actually made by a guy on MR2OC in his garage. It's called the Holy Lip, which is basically a modified Stout lip. He only made a handful in CF, so it's pretty limited.


No plans to get rid of the black on the sides. I like the two tone.

Just hit ~2500 miles on the swap now and everything has been pretty smooth.. *knock on wood*

Just emptied the oil and put in some Royal Purple and we have a date with the dyno tomorrow morning!

Will be taking pictures and videos of the runs and posting here... Because sharing is caring!

Since i know you usually do your research, why run royal purple? Its the dynamat of the oil world.

Simple - it was on sale

I typically run Castrol or Mobil1, but this worked out to be cheaper, so I thought I'd try it.

That's a shocker that royal purple would be cheaper. I have always ran Mobil 1 in every one of my cars except for the aircooled ones.

So with this swap, would you say you are satisfied? Would you do it again?

Haha makes sense, but from what I've researched and found out is that royal purple is overpriced purple oil. If you want a superior synthetic go for shell rotella, as it is the only TRUE synthetic. But i do however run mobile 1 and have never had an issue.

Edit: Epoc do you still live in penn valley? For some reason i always had that pegged in central California. Im right down in Rocklin during fall and spring for school if you ever need a hand or wanna do a shoot.

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Jun 4, 2011 - 1:12 PM

I am satisfied with this swap. I wasnt going into this in search of big numbers, but more for something that is fun to drive, and this is a real blast.


Dyno numbers are 172whp 166wtq, but there are a couple problems, which when I post the chart will be obvious. something is happening around 3k rpm at full throttle. It's pulling timing, or flooding out the cylinders because it drops then starts climbing again. It's running real rich, so I'm going to get a SAFC installed to pull fuel. Give me a few and i'll get it all posted.

don't use the safc to fix a problem, figure out what the problem is. Are the intake flaps working?

The ACIS is working. The auto ECU thinks it's in park, so it isn't adjusting fuel trims. I think the Auto trans codes are causing the problems. The only real way to get rid of the codes is to go full standalone, which isn't really in my budget. My tuner quoted something like $2500 for a ViPEC system installed and tuned. He said that since I'm not really looking at building the car out any more than where it is now to just go with a SAFC or if I want to - Mega Squirt so that the fuel can be dialed back. I maxed out the wideband while doing the baseline, so who knows just how rich it is. Pulling back the fuel will at least net me a few more HP and better fuel economy.

Out at my house tethered to my iPhone right now, so the upload is going slow....


edit: Chart.



This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Jun 4, 2011 - 5:50 PM

Video. You can see the power drop off when the car sort of hops on the dyno and the technician glances over at the shop owner running the PC.


And I hate photobucket for smashing my video




Hiding in the shop...



This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Jun 4, 2011 - 6:03 PM

woah woah woah, auto ecu...don't you just ground a pin and that tells it it's in a manual car? I SWEAR I read that somewhere....

http://www.mr2.com/forums/v6-owners-group/...g-question.html

Not for the 94-96. Doesn't work.

definetly leaving some power on the table with it that rich..definetly somthing funky going on with it, from the looks of that.
diggin the instant tq tho!

those drop outs are not showing on the AF as sudden rich or lean though, looks very steady. Anyways, the thread I linked also covers roughly what's needed to get the ECM to think there is a trans.

I already have resistors hooked up to a sub-harness for fooling the automatic transmission. The problem is that is seems to be pulse, where resistors can't offer that.


I don't feel this drop at all when I'm driving. I'm wondering if the TPS doesn't like WOT.


EDIT:

Bitter, keep in mind that the AF looks steady because it has bottomed out the wideband. The real readings are going to be even lower than the line it shows.

This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Jun 6, 2011 - 5:44 PM