6G Celicas Forums

Took the clutch off today to see if I could resurface the flywheel...looks a little beat up. I am hoping I can because I had the clutch sent 2nd day air so I could get everything done by Tuesday. I will be replacing the axel seals in about a month when I replace the axels. What about the rear main seal? Which one is that? I am hoping I dont have to wait for it.

FLYWHEEL


FLYWHEEL TEETH


What is this? The flywheel doesnt need to go in a certain way right? You just bolt it up


Looks dirty in there


This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 4, 2012 - 3:13 PM

you need a flywheel.
rear main doesn't look too bad, hows the input seal on the trans? Most of that oil is from the valve cover gasket/distributor o-ring.


Shoulda got a V8!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 4, 2012 - 4:09 PM

I had an F1 in my 7gc...worked pretty good for me...can't remember how long I used it for though...maybe 6 months and no probs

if you had any oil on the flywheel bolts, replace the rear main seal. actually just do it anyway. might as well do it while you have the transmission off
you're flywheel is done, just get a new one. resurfacing it won't help at all.

Damnit I guess I got 2nd day delivery on the clutch for no reason since I gotta wait for more parts. I'm gonna order a sachs flywheel on Monday. Yea 2 of the bolts had oil on them....that's proly why there is a mess in there. I assume the rear main seal is the one that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel. Do you have a part number? I tried searching and I only found the axel seals. I'm tempted to do the timeing belt and water pump now....I have no idea if it was ever changed.

rear main does not look bad. (its the rubber that sits around the holes you bolted your flywheel too)

but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision

either way good luck. its hard to tell on your flywheel hot deep thode pits are. but there is a lot of material to work with on there take it to a machine shop and ask what they think. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface




peace

-jec

This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 4, 2012 - 11:54 PM

it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol

just to clarify i agree with this. reread my post and it didnt read like it sounded on my head lol

Does anyone know the part number for the rear main seal? This is the only one I could find W0133-1795517.

This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 6, 2012 - 3:38 PM

I checked the manual and I couldnt find the torque specifications for the bracket that the main rear seal is in.

Well for anyone replacing the main seal DO NOT remove the housing unless you plan on resealing and removing the oil pan. You can just pry it out easily with a seal puller.

I bolted the transmission back up today...that was the longest 2 hours ever. Had to get 2 people to help me line it up. It would have been 100x easier if I had a lift.

So i ended up cleaning my transmission today...as i scrubed the top it revealed a "96" written in marker that was hidden under the dirt and oil. Looks like the previous owner must have replaced the clutch and tranny.

Lol, did you use a jack or something to do the trannie? Jesus that thing is heavy.

You can run solo with a hoist =)

Glad to hear its going together good.

Ha I tried to use the jack at first, but I couldnt get it aligned and it kept slipping off the jack so I had 2 people guide it up with rope and I was under benchin it. Still took a while to get i all aligned, but after that workout I called it a night. I should get everything together tomorrow

I think im done tryin to get everything to the right torque specifications. "Suspension crossmember bolts "112 LBS" Now I have one suspension bolt because the other one snapped.

BTW for the axel/cv nut on our cars they can be reused right

don't always go by specifications. do it until it's really tight. the bolts on our cars are 15 years old and they are bound to break. yes the axle nuts can be reused just put a new cotter pin in.

lol, yes I think im gonna use the "really tight" method for anything over 50 LBS. I was determined to finish this lil project today had to get pull out the lights, but I just manage to put everything back together. Started it up and ran it on the stands and everything is good. The clutch is a little soft. Im gonna try bleeding it a little more tomorrow and do a road test.