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> cheapest sway bar end links?
post Jun 30, 2004 - 7:03 AM
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bufferdan

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Where is the cheapest place to get the rear end links for the sway bar?


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post Jul 1, 2004 - 3:43 PM
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CelicaQT



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I bought mine for $47 each at www.partsamerica.com, check also www.rockauto.com also.

Other than that check your local Murrays, Autozone, etc.
I'm pretty sure they're going to cost you about the same amount. Maybe a tad more??
post Jul 1, 2004 - 3:54 PM
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Defgeph



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toyota dealership sells them for around 50 each.

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post Jul 2, 2004 - 2:19 PM
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SlowCelica94



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Am I the only person who hates our end links and the weird bolt dealy on em?


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post Jul 2, 2004 - 4:51 PM
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bufferdan

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they suck!! you have to get a wire brush on a drill bit and get all the rust off the threads before you start loosening them. Just work the nut back and forth and keep spraying rust eater or something. They will come off if you use this method and can be reused.


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post Jul 11, 2004 - 12:11 PM
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97GTinKC

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QUOTE (bufferdan @ Jul 2, 2004 - 2:51 PM)
they suck!! you have to get a wire brush on a drill bit and get all the rust off the threads before you start loosening them.  Just work the nut back and forth and keep spraying rust eater or something.  They will come off if you use this method and can be reused.

And you should be able to hold the stud from turning with a Hex key in the end, clean out the hole, get a GOOD quality metric hex key of the correct size, may have to tap it in if the hole is really rusty...

And as a last resort, get a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, (and safety glasses)

This post has been edited by 97GTinKC: Jul 11, 2004 - 12:12 PM
post Jul 11, 2004 - 2:58 PM
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Junior

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cut them off and get new ones or get a vice grip and clamp down on the bushings. That should lock up the bolt and help get the nut off.
post Jul 11, 2004 - 4:34 PM
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bufferdan

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Oh..i know exactly how to get them off everytime now without destroying them, rusty or not. Like i said... Wire brush on a drill to get the rust off the end threads and spray it good with lub. Using the wrench and allen wrench work the nut back and forth till it comes all the way off. I put some grease on the threads when i put it back so it wont rust as badly if i have to take them off again./


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post Jul 18, 2004 - 6:21 AM
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97Celica



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No,no,no.. TORQUE WRENCH!


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post Jan 28, 2006 - 4:16 AM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(97Celica @ Jul 18, 2004 - 4:21 AM) [snapback]160004[/snapback]

No,no,no.. TORQUE WRENCH!


I did a search on sway bar end links and this is the only torque wrench response, which is tempting to try. I have a torque wrench, but am convinced that Bufferdan's and Presure2s method works best. What are the cons of trying a torque wrench? You gotta hold that allen key bolt in place, right? I am going to do my own spring installation, by the way. This will only be my second time jacking the car up to do work on it. Thanks.
post Jan 28, 2006 - 3:22 PM
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Agent21

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WHOA HOLD ON. This will take time but it will work. Shoot PB Blaster on the nuts every morning for a week before you drive the car. The stuff will work it's way in as your drive and work the nuts loose.


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post Jan 28, 2006 - 5:04 PM
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presure2



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heres what to do.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:
user posted image
hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.


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post Jan 28, 2006 - 11:35 PM
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Celicav



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QUOTE(presure2 @ Jan 28, 2006 - 3:04 PM) [snapback]385788[/snapback]

heres what to do.
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:
user posted image
hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket
take your time, and follow the directions, its works every time.


Manny, thanks so much. I trust you as a resource. I just bought the 5mm allen socket at Sears today, the PB Blaster, and the longest 14mm boxed end wrench I could find, and I should be ready to roll soon, once I order the Teins. wink.gif
post Jan 29, 2006 - 9:36 AM
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Insanity-74

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Done this job today, the 5mm allan socket idea, which I thought would work well, just rounded off the inside of the allen key bit...the nut was well and truely stuck, despite being covered in WD40....heated etc. So that was that idea ****ed, had to resort to a bfo drill and drill the drop link off the shock....the other side went tits up too so I`m gonna have to buy 2 of the damn things.....My car is really starting to piss me off, and now will be off the road for ANOTHER 2 days or so, that`ll be almost a month its been sat in the garage for frown.gif
post Jan 29, 2006 - 10:09 AM
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presure2



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QUOTE
just rounded off the inside of the allen key bit...the nut was well and truely stuck

sounds like you didnt hammer the bit in far enough
also you need to turn the bolt FIRST, to break it loose from the tab
i cannot stress how important it is to seat that bit ALL the way in. it WILL strip out the whole if you dont seat it properly. also, you should NOT be trying to turn the allen socket.
the 14mm bolt is what you should actually be turning, the allen socket just holds the stud.


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post Jan 29, 2006 - 5:55 PM
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Agent21

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Manny, thanks so much. I trust you as a resource. ...... frown.gif didn't I say the exact same thing?


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post Jan 30, 2006 - 9:47 AM
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Insanity-74

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QUOTE(bufferdan @ Jun 30, 2004 - 12:03 PM) [snapback]153968[/snapback]

Where is the cheapest place to get the rear end links for the sway bar?


www.Fensport.co.uk

$30 each
post Jan 30, 2006 - 5:42 PM
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GT4WRC



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Am I the only person here who has never had an issue with the nuts siezing on the swaybar links? Even when I replaced mine (no idea how long the originals had been on for) they came undomne easily enough.
As for replacements, I went to my local suspension shop and bought some 'universal' ones. Half the cost of Toyota and just as good biggrin.gif
Gary


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post Jan 31, 2006 - 10:21 PM
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elvasoshexai



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if u get new sway bars, is it bad if you don't replace the endlinks?


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post Jan 31, 2006 - 11:35 PM
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Valo666



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it depends on how old the end links are..and most of the time the kits come with new ones..like the tanabe front sway bar comes with new end links and bushings.

Yea, for any Canucks on the site, retail for TRW endlinks from Crappy T, $83.56 w/o tax. Toyota's are about $3 more (or so one of the dealers around here tells me), and are covered under toyota warrenty.

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