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> DIY - changing your transmission fluid/oil, M/T 7afe
post Aug 22, 2005 - 9:16 PM
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Batman722



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I changed the transmission fluid/oil in my 7afe recently and Manny (presure2) took some pics - thanks Manny wink.gif
I was having some slight grinding going into 2nd gear in higher RPMs and I figured changing the tranny fluid would be a great idea. Since it has been changed, no more grinding biggrin.gif

tools needed : ratchet, 24mm socket, 3-4qts transmission fluid/oil, oil drain pan, jack/stands
time : 30min - 1hr, depending on your mechanical skill level

DO NOT attempt this when engine is hot, wait until the engine is very cool/cold.


first you need to loosen this bolt (fill plug) with a ratchet and the 24mm socket
user posted image
bolt removed
user posted image

it is located here, it is facing the front of the car. The transmission is circled in yellow and the arrow is pointing to the bolt location
user posted image
the bolts are usually very tight and could be difficult to loosen

next, jack up the front of the car (putting it on jack stands is always safer) and with the 24mm socket you need to loosen this bolt (drain plug)
user posted image
Remove drain plug. The drain plug is located directly under the transmission. You may need to remove some of the plastic under the engine for easier access. Be sure to put the oil drain pan under the bolt when removing because the old fluid/oil will be pouring out.

now after the old oil has drained out (10 min later), replace the drain plug - make sure it is secure - and lower the car.

My personal choice
Pennzoil Synchromesh
user posted image

pour 3-4qrts of the Synchromesh into the fill plug hole (you might want to use a long funnel or pour/squeeze from the bottle into the hole) until full - it will start pouring back out. I used just less than 3qrts
user posted image


Once full, replace fill plug - make sure it is secure - and wipe up the excess that has spilt.

Done.

Notes :
- be sure to dispose of old fluid/oil properly
- according to the BGB - 7a transmission refill = 3.5qrts, 5s transmission refill = 2.6qrts
- this procedure should be the same/similar for both 7afe and 5sfe


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post Aug 22, 2005 - 9:44 PM
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Defgeph



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Awesome work guy, I added to the sticky.

Now go tear up those streets.

DEF


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post Aug 22, 2005 - 9:44 PM
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Silver94CelicaOw...



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Awesome job you guys. I've still been too lazy to change mine, but I think this how-to might just motivate me to get a move on and finally do it. wink.gif


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post Nov 4, 2005 - 10:05 PM
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slvrblt

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To make refilling the transmission eaiser, go to a marine store and buy a pump that is used to put gear oil into an outdrive. Just remove the fitting that comes on the end of the hose, insert the pump into the bottle and then pump the gear oil into the transmission with very little mess.
post Nov 5, 2005 - 9:29 AM
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Its best oil for manual transmission. I tried it on my other car and it totaly cured the problem.
post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:12 PM
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blu94gt



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so on the 5sfe, the fill hole is pointed slightly downwards on the front of the case? i think i'm doin this right but i don't think fluid should have come out of the fill hole when i opened it up?


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post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:18 PM
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Supersprynt



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Did you drain it first? If you open the fill hole while fluid is still in there some will come out.


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post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:20 PM
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QUOTE(Supersprynt @ Nov 5, 2005 - 1:18 PM)
Did you drain it first? If you open the fill hole while fluid is still in there some will come out.
[right][snapback]353475[/snapback][/right]


ok i was just making sure i wasnt doing something wrong (this is my first time doing tranny fluid) i was always told that the fill hole wouldnt have anything come out of it, i'll have to tell my friend he's an idiot now lol


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post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:20 PM
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Defgeph



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Make sure you fill the tranny with all four tires on the ground. If the car is jacked up when you're filling it, there will be too much fluid in there.

So when somone opens the filler hole tranny fluid will come pouring out of the hole.

DEF


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post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:36 PM
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blu94gt



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QUOTE(defgeph @ Nov 5, 2005 - 1:20 PM)
Make sure you fill the tranny with all four tires on the ground. If the car is jacked up when you're filling it,  there will be too much fluid in there.

So when somone opens the filler hole tranny fluid will come pouring out of the hole.

DEF
[right][snapback]353477[/snapback][/right]


yeah, i think that's what happend the last time it was filled. it's draining right now, i'll drop it down and finish the job up. thanks guys, i love this community


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post Nov 5, 2005 - 1:54 PM
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Supersprynt



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What I usually do is get a funnel with a tube.


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post Nov 6, 2005 - 12:49 PM
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i gotta do mine soon.
i use Redline though. i use it in all my probes and its great.
$7-8 a quart though.


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post Nov 6, 2005 - 7:25 PM
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blu94gt



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I just used Coastal gear oil, it was all they had in stock still and I just needed to get it done. Instead of a funnel, they sold a hose that screws on to the bottle, you twist the base of the hose closed, get the hose in the fill hole and then turn the bottle upside down and fill the tranny, the whole job was really fast.


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post Nov 6, 2005 - 7:42 PM
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lagos



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synchromesh owns all. ive been recomending it to everyone


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post Nov 24, 2005 - 5:04 PM
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Starcraftjunkie

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I'm thinking about changing to synchromesh as well, but I got a question.
So if you do a summary of the steps:

-jack up car
-remove fill bolt
-put drain pan underneath drain hole
-remove drain bolt and let fluid drain out
-screw in drain bolt
-drop car back down
** here's my question **
-put in new tranny fluid
-screw in fill bolt

But if the car isn't jacked up, isn't it very difficult to get to the fill hole? It appears to be mostly accessible when you got the car jacked up. Or is it accessible from the hood area so you just have to reach in?

This post has been edited by Starcraftjunkie: Nov 24, 2005 - 5:05 PM
post Nov 24, 2005 - 5:13 PM
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trdevelopment

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im gettin ready to do this also im going to use lucas is anyone using it?
post Nov 24, 2005 - 5:24 PM
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lagos



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your going to need a funnel with a long hose to do it with the wheels on the ground. i just did mine while it was jacked up, it overfills it a little, but i havent noticed any negative side effects from it.


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 12:04 PM
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I just did mine, and WOW! What a difference, everything is so smooth. I couldn't find my jack, so I just drove up on a 2x4 under each wheel and had enough room.

I didn't need a funnel to fill it up. I dropped the bottle bottom first next to the transmission, took off the cap, put the top in the fill hole, and tilted it up. Sounds complicated, but it's easy and no mess wink.gif

Thanks for the How-to Dustin.


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hey, nice mod does it come in hetero?


Need parts? I'm parting out a '94 ST
post Nov 25, 2005 - 1:12 PM
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Batman722



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glad things worked out for you Alex smile.gif

there is a lot of room to pour strait from the bottle for an ST, the GT is much tighter for space and a funnell would be easiest.

overall, changing it is pretty easy and well worth it.


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 1:35 PM
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damnit, seems to be much harder to change on the 3s-ge, it's really dark outside and i can't locate fill bolt.
Well i'll take a look tomorrow and hope it's not too hard to do, the tranny could really use a fluid change...


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 2:30 PM
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Batman722



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QUOTE(Predator @ Nov 25, 2005 - 1:35 PM) [snapback]359505[/snapback]

damnit, seems to be much harder to change on the 3s-ge, it's really dark outside and i can't locate fill bolt.
Well i'll take a look tomorrow and hope it's not too hard to do, the tranny could really use a fluid change...

the 3sge tranny is very similar to the 5s and 7a (drian/fill bolt locations)
you can do it wink.gif


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 3:35 PM
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QUOTE(Batman722 @ Nov 25, 2005 - 2:30 PM) [snapback]359514[/snapback]

QUOTE(Predator @ Nov 25, 2005 - 1:35 PM) [snapback]359505[/snapback]

damnit, seems to be much harder to change on the 3s-ge, it's really dark outside and i can't locate fill bolt.
Well i'll take a look tomorrow and hope it's not too hard to do, the tranny could really use a fluid change...

the 3sge tranny is very similar to the 5s and 7a (drian/fill bolt locations)
you can do it wink.gif


nah i won't have any problems to actually do it, it's just that i'm so lazy....


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 4:24 PM
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Nice wright up, seems to have been a big topic lately.


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1994 GT Awaiting new tranny...

...I love my girlfriend...
post Nov 25, 2005 - 11:07 PM
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I tried to do it but I couldn't get that fill bolt off. I even bought a 24mm socket for my ratchet and tried to make a break bar so it would loosen, but I just couldn't get it off. frown.gif What a waste of time...


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post Nov 25, 2005 - 11:43 PM
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Try putting some WD-40 on there and letting it soak in overnight.


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hey, nice mod does it come in hetero?


Need parts? I'm parting out a '94 ST
post Nov 26, 2005 - 12:05 AM
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Batman722



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QUOTE(Cutrara @ Nov 25, 2005 - 11:43 PM) [snapback]359641[/snapback]

Try putting some WD-40 on there and letting it soak in overnight.

PB Blaster is the shiznit


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post Nov 26, 2005 - 1:04 AM
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QUOTE(eyohannie @ Nov 25, 2005 - 10:07 PM) [snapback]359634[/snapback]

I tried to do it but I couldn't get that fill bolt off. I even bought a 24mm socket for my ratchet and tried to make a break bar so it would loosen, but I just couldn't get it off. frown.gif What a waste of time...


mine was really stubborn too, i finally got it though. I just used my breaker bar and a lot of strength lol


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post Nov 26, 2005 - 1:21 AM
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Batman722



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QUOTE(eyohannie @ Nov 25, 2005 - 11:07 PM) [snapback]359634[/snapback]

I tried to do it but I couldn't get that fill bolt off. I even bought a 24mm socket for my ratchet and tried to make a break bar so it would loosen, but I just couldn't get it off. frown.gif What a waste of time...

don't give up guy, it is well worth it when it is done


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post Nov 26, 2005 - 1:34 AM
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hmmm... okay then, i will try it again next week after finals. I think I'll do that WD-40 overnight thing and hope for the best...


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post Nov 26, 2005 - 3:34 PM
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use a long braker bar, and make sure you are using a 6point socket (no 12points!) those bolts are made of really soft aluminum, and can be striped very easy. i know, i almost totally striped one of mine.


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post Nov 27, 2005 - 4:59 AM
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I changed mine yesterday with some semi synthetic trans oil and i didn't notice too much of a change if any at all. I wasn't really expecting fantastic results but it still grinds a bit when changing. I didn't use syncromesh. I think i put a bit too much in, any negative effects of that. I know what you're talking about with the tight bolts...had to use a massive breaker bar. Thanks for the great how to.

This post has been edited by Dunners: Nov 27, 2005 - 5:03 AM
post Nov 27, 2005 - 10:40 AM
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Batman722



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I had first changed mine and used Mobil1 synthetic and it still grinded. I took the advise of a few others and then changed it to the syncromesh, no grinding at all since.


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post Nov 27, 2005 - 11:09 AM
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redline MTL or HD shockproof is the best tranny fluid i've ever used.
post Nov 28, 2005 - 1:41 AM
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While we're on the topic, What is the differences between normal engine oil and transmission oil? I couldn't imagine too much difference, they do pretty much the same thing? I'll do mine again soon with syncromesh cause i have to do my inner cv's and i may as well change it. Cheers fella's.
post Nov 28, 2005 - 1:45 AM
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Batman722



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QUOTE(Dunners @ Nov 28, 2005 - 1:41 AM) [snapback]360397[/snapback]

While we're on the topic, What is the differences between normal engine oil and transmission oil? I couldn't imagine too much difference, they do pretty much the same thing? I'll do mine again soon with syncromesh cause i have to do my inner cv's and i may as well change it. Cheers fella's.

transmission fluid (oil) is very thin, much thinner than normal engine oil. A transmission has many more smaller moving parts (gears) and the oil needs to flow throughout easier.


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post May 1, 2006 - 3:11 AM
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makes plans to do this next weekend smile.gif

it'll be alot easier with a hoist, but hey you get that sometimes...

nice write up
post May 1, 2006 - 8:12 AM
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man, I never saw this before for some reason... I think I def need to do mine. I have driven like 115k miles and never changed it...prolly waaaayyyyy past due for a change

How often should it be changed?
post May 2, 2006 - 12:52 AM
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QUOTE(Jeremy1210 @ May 1, 2006 - 8:12 AM) [snapback]428514[/snapback]

man, I never saw this before for some reason... I think I def need to do mine. I have driven like 115k miles and never changed it...prolly waaaayyyyy past due for a change

How often should it be changed?


technically manual transmissions are designed not to need a lube change for like 100k at a time, but I think the Toyota manual says every 30k to change it.

And guys...it's TOTALLY EASY to do, the longest part is just pouring the fluid in.


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post May 2, 2006 - 7:58 PM
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Cutrara



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30k? I used a cheap brand about 5k miles ago, I think at 10k I'm going to use Syncromesh. Every once in a while I get a little bit of grinding going into reverse.


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hey, nice mod does it come in hetero?


Need parts? I'm parting out a '94 ST
post May 2, 2006 - 8:13 PM
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I pour my fluid in from the top of the tranny while leaving the filler hole open so i know when theres enough in the tranny. Is this bad? i have all four wheeles on the floor when i do it, and so far my tranny works fine. It was pretty hard to fit a bottle where the filler is so i took off the big bolt on the top of the tranny (where the gear selector is) and poured it in there.
post May 3, 2006 - 2:17 AM
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i'd like to state one think. oils should ALWAYS be drained hot after a hard romp so that sediments are stirred up and drain with the oil.

also replace the standard plug with a magnetic tipped on to trap steel shavings.


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post May 18, 2006 - 1:47 PM
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sorry for bring in this thread back to life..but...

idk why but i cant find both the fill/drain bolt in my auto 5sfe...am i not lookin hard enough...or is there anotehr location for it???...

EDIT:..some1 plz slap me.....hahha..jus noticed it was for a mt .....gosh...no wonder i cant find it.....i found out that it needs a 10mm hex socket and a filter n gasket kit.......

This post has been edited by DeW_H0e_GT: May 18, 2006 - 6:57 PM


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post May 18, 2006 - 9:36 PM
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*slaps* dew_hoe_gt

you're welcome, and yes, the manual transmission is much easier to change than the auto, i just changed mine, and it feels a lil better but it still grinds, oddly enough i only put in about 2 1/2 quarts before it started to drain itself out again, so i just left it at 2 1/2 quarts, get a manual trans ftwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww

This post has been edited by pure_dx: May 18, 2006 - 9:38 PM
post Jul 24, 2006 - 8:31 PM
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I have tried a few fluids.



ATF works best from my experiance. But I will give syncromesh a try to stop my grindage.
post Jul 24, 2006 - 8:34 PM
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nice tutorial!


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post Jul 24, 2006 - 9:32 PM
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QUOTE(Steevo @ Jul 24, 2006 - 9:31 PM) [snapback]460587[/snapback]

I have tried a few fluids.



ATF works best from my experiance. But I will give syncromesh a try to stop my grindage.



QUOTE(tomazws @ Jul 24, 2006 - 9:34 PM) [snapback]460591[/snapback]

nice tutorial!

thanks.

Syncromesh is the way to go


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post Aug 26, 2006 - 11:52 AM
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There are 2 reasons to have fluid come out of the fill hole when you remove the plug.
One is

QUOTE(defgeph @ Nov 5, 2005 - 1:20 PM) [snapback]353477[/snapback]

Make sure you fill the tranny with all four tires on the ground. If the car is jacked up when you're filling it, there will be too much fluid in there.

So when somone opens the filler hole tranny fluid will come pouring out of the hole.

DEF


Also, if your flat spot is on a slope....



The other is if the trans is hot at all, the fluid expands, and raises the level.
So if you have driven it 30 min ago, it will probably still be hot.


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post Aug 28, 2006 - 7:23 PM
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Cant get the damn fill hole off. Its chewed up a bit now and its just being a pain.
post Aug 28, 2006 - 7:52 PM
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Using a cold chisel make a indent in the side of the plug square to the plug itself, close to a corner, then point the chisel at the next corner and give it a whack.


post Aug 29, 2006 - 12:38 PM
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QUOTE(Steevo @ Jul 24, 2006 - 8:31 PM) [snapback]460587[/snapback]

I have tried a few fluids.



ATF works best from my experiance. But I will give syncromesh a try to stop my grindage.


It might be because you are putting ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) into a standard transmission.

And btw, it's called "gear oil" or "ATF" depending on the type of transmission. Let's all get the terminology correct.

Gear oil goes into standard transmissions.
ATF goes into automatic transmissions.

We might wanna add that to the information, so that people aren't using the wrong terms, and buying the wrong thing.

If someone doesn't know what they are doing, and they go into AutoZone to get something to fill their transmission with, and they are looking for "transmission fluid/oil," they will probably end up with ATF, much like Steevo here.


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post Aug 29, 2006 - 1:38 PM
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alot of manual transmissons use ATF as well. i know that in cold climates its often used instead of gear oil and infact many manual transmissions require it outright no matter what climate you're in.


you guys might also try the scott grey mix which is "Mix 2 parts Redline MTL and 1 parts Redline MT-90". that mix has been known to help smooth shifts and help with grinding.


This post has been edited by Bitter: Aug 29, 2006 - 1:44 PM


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post Aug 29, 2006 - 1:43 PM
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Mynzeyes



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I'm about 99% that the Celica's specs call for gear oil in manual transmissions. I go by that.


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post Aug 29, 2006 - 1:46 PM
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QUOTE(Mynzeyes @ Aug 29, 2006 - 1:43 PM) [snapback]474152[/snapback]

I'm about 99% that the Celica's specs call for gear oil in manual transmissions. I go by that.

i bet they do, but you man a unilateral statement than all manual transmissions take gear oil. thats not correct.


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post Aug 29, 2006 - 2:39 PM
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QUOTE(Bitter @ Aug 29, 2006 - 1:46 PM) [snapback]474154[/snapback]

QUOTE(Mynzeyes @ Aug 29, 2006 - 1:43 PM) [snapback]474152[/snapback]

I'm about 99% that the Celica's specs call for gear oil in manual transmissions. I go by that.

i bet they do, but you man a unilateral statement than all manual transmissions take gear oil. thats not correct.


I never said "all".

See below:
QUOTE(Mynzeyes @ Aug 29, 2006 - 12:38 PM) [snapback]474130[/snapback]

It might be because you are putting ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) into a standard transmission.

And btw, it's called "gear oil" or "ATF" depending on the type of transmission. Let's all get the terminology correct.

Gear oil goes into <Celica> standard transmissions.
ATF goes into <Celica> automatic transmissions.

We might wanna add that to the information, so that people aren't using the wrong terms, and buying the wrong thing.

If someone doesn't know what they are doing, and they go into AutoZone to get something to fill their transmission with, and they are looking for "transmission fluid/oil," they will probably end up with ATF, much like Steevo here.


*Implied/Understood words are red and bold, as they pertain to this message board. This isn't an all inclusive board. So I speak in reference to Celicas.

This post has been edited by Mynzeyes: Aug 29, 2006 - 2:44 PM


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post Aug 30, 2006 - 9:38 AM
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As a fact the shear stability of the ATF in use was more than adequate for use on the lubrication standpoint, and the addative package contains almost the same amounts of sulphated ash and zinc.

Really and honestly it helped alot while it was in use. It went from a 3K shift with grindage, to a 4+ shift.


I changed to the syncromesh last night, and no more grindage at all!! mad props to whoever was pouring out the money to try and fix this problem. I found it at the local Autozone for $6.59 a quart, and it was well worth the cost.

Just a side note about it, it is alot thinner (lighter in oil weight) than the 75W90 that is reccomended for use in the transmission, but it works GREAT!!

post Aug 31, 2006 - 8:15 PM
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man this pissed me off so much, i found the first bolt, the fill one. but i have no idea where the drain one is, i mean i just couldnt find it... does anyone have anymore pictures that show 'where' it is like he showed 'where' the first one is by circling it or something? cause i spent 30 bucks on that syncromesh and i wanna use ittttttt
lol thanks alot if anyone can help


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post Jan 6, 2007 - 3:35 PM
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It sure is nice to get a list of tools needed for jobs
without going thru a book to do it. I have used these
stickys and how tos countless times. They are always
a great reference. smile.gif


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post Jan 7, 2007 - 12:28 AM
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Randy, did you change the fluid on the Celica or the Corolla ?


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post Jan 7, 2007 - 3:28 PM
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QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jan 6, 2007 - 9:28 PM) [snapback]515769[/snapback]

Randy, did you change the fluid on the Celica or the Corolla ?



Clearly since this is not an "allinclusive" laugh.gif forum it was
the celica.


OK you caught me, I am using this forum for info on
my other toys as well. I am changing it in the rolla. It is
a little tighter though. I'm just using some 75-90 because
I am replacing this tranny soon and I couldn't find sycromesh
anywhere around here frown.gif . To bad GT4s don't have hubs
I need to rebuild one on my truck.


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post Feb 26, 2007 - 2:58 PM
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QUOTE(Batman722 @ Nov 28, 2005 - 6:45 AM) [snapback]360399[/snapback]

QUOTE(Dunners @ Nov 28, 2005 - 1:41 AM) [snapback]360397[/snapback]

While we're on the topic, What is the differences between normal engine oil and transmission oil? I couldn't imagine too much difference, they do pretty much the same thing? I'll do mine again soon with syncromesh cause i have to do my inner cv's and i may as well change it. Cheers fella's.

transmission fluid (oil) is very thin, much thinner than normal engine oil. A transmission has many more smaller moving parts (gears) and the oil needs to flow throughout easier.


Sorry but I thought we should clear this up. To start I am a lubrication engineer so I have a little working knowledge and experience on this subject LOL.
I'm sure Dustin just got his wires crossed when he typed this as having changed it he probably knows by feel.

10w30 engine oil is waaay thinner than 75w90 Manual Transmission Oil. Gear oil is thicker because it is not having to be pumped through the small oil passageways of the engine block. This is also why it does not have to be changed out as often as it will take alot longer for the viscosity to break down to the point where t is no longer lubricating.

This post has been edited by Negative: Feb 26, 2007 - 3:00 PM


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post Mar 5, 2007 - 12:42 PM
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QUOTE(tonytutino @ Aug 31, 2006 - 5:15 PM) [snapback]474993[/snapback]

man this pissed me off so much, i found the first bolt, the fill one. but i have no idea where the drain one is, i mean i just couldnt find it... does anyone have anymore pictures that show 'where' it is like he showed 'where' the first one is by circling it or something? cause i spent 30 bucks on that syncromesh and i wanna use ittttttt
lol thanks alot if anyone can help


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post May 28, 2007 - 6:21 PM
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Did mine today with synchromesh, pretty straightforward. Only problem was that car has to be jacked up to refill from the bottom. couldn't do it from the top. Haven't driven the car yet. Waiting on clutch release cylinder/slave cylinder replacement.


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post Jul 8, 2007 - 8:47 PM
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i did mine with syncromesh today and it made a humongous difference.
my tranny used to grind when i shifted from 4th to 3rd.....
now the grind is gone
and i am completely thrilled with my fluid change.
i had a hell of a time trying to find the syncromesh though.
my local advance auto didnt carry it
and the guy up at my local NAPA had never even heard of it.
he looked at me like i was crazy when i walked in and asked for syncromesh.
i had to drive to another advance auto to get it.
other than that.....great how to article!
post Jul 30, 2008 - 12:06 AM
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I'd like to do my tranny fluid soon, as far as fluid, I hear some use ATF with good result, and I hear some use Synchromesh with good results. If I went with ATF, I'd use Royal Purple Max ATF.

Anyone use this stuff before with good results? And does anyone know what fluid the manual actually calls for?

-Matt
post Jul 30, 2008 - 11:39 AM
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QUOTE (GotToyota @ Jul 30, 2008 - 1:06 AM) *
I'd like to do my tranny fluid soon, as far as fluid, I hear some use ATF with good result, and I hear some use Synchromesh with good results. If I went with ATF, I'd use Royal Purple Max ATF.

Anyone use this stuff before with good results? And does anyone know what fluid the manual actually calls for?

-Matt


ATF is Automatic Tranny Fluid

Isnt ATF bad for manual trannies?

edit: from royal purple's website

"Max ATF is a synthetic, high-performance, automatic transmission fluid. Its low co-efficient of friction and high film strength help to dramatically reduce heat and wear. Additionally, Max ATF is more oxidation stable than other transmission fluids for longer fluid life."

This post has been edited by devilsden97: Jul 30, 2008 - 11:42 AM


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post Jul 30, 2008 - 11:06 PM
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LOL, I know what ATF is. I just know some manual trannies can use ATF.
post Jul 30, 2008 - 11:18 PM
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you can mix atf in with gear oil, that's what Toyota does with most of the newer cars...
post Jul 30, 2008 - 11:35 PM
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QUOTE (brthrurik @ Jul 31, 2008 - 12:18 AM) *
you can mix atf in with gear oil, that's what Toyota does with most of the newer cars...

and why would you think that ?


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post Jul 31, 2008 - 7:30 AM
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I think I'm just going to buy the Royal Purple 75W-90(?) tranny fluid and see how it goes.

-Matt
post Jul 31, 2008 - 8:42 AM
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QUOTE (GotToyota @ Jul 31, 2008 - 8:30 AM) *
I think I'm just going to buy the Royal Purple 75W-90(?) tranny fluid and see how it goes.

-Matt


good call


and for the record, when i pointed out what ATF was, it wasnt to inform you as to what the acronym was, it was more to point out that u were using autotrans fluid on your standard. (so i guess in a roundabout way i was trying to inform u of what the acronym ment...didnt mean any disrespect, didnt want u dmging your tranny for no good reason)


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post Jul 31, 2008 - 8:53 AM
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Ive done mine with Synchromesh and it shifted like a dream afterwords. Just some advice though, those bolts WILL give you a hard time but with some PB blaster and some good 'ol muscle they will come right out. Also if your previous owner was like mine then that fluid is still the original that came in the car. When I drained the old fluid out it was a burnt copper color and smelt something awful. It might have been overkill but I changed the fluid drove it for about 2 months or so and then changed it again and the fluid looked a lot better. And a pick for my tools of the trade tongue.gif
post Jul 31, 2008 - 9:02 AM
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QUOTE (Bricy @ Jul 31, 2008 - 8:53 AM) *
Ive done mine with Synchromesh and it shifted like a dream afterwords. Just some advice though, those bolts WILL give you a hard time but with some PB blaster and some good 'ol muscle they will come right out. Also if your previous owner was like mine then that fluid is still the original that came in the car. When I drained the old fluid out it was a burnt copper color and smelt something awful. It might have been overkill but I changed the fluid drove it for about 2 months or so and then changed it again and the fluid looked a lot better. And a pick for my tools of the trade tongue.gif

Very nice, so it only took you 3 quarts? Good to know.

DevilsDen: I didn't take it as offensive man, you're good. smile.gif
post Aug 3, 2008 - 5:42 PM
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http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtf.aspx

Anyone have any info on this stuff? I'd like to get this.

-Matt
post Oct 16, 2008 - 6:34 AM
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How would you fill the ATF? My dipstick says cool and hot instead of full or low. Common sense wise, if the car has not been running, it should be at the cool level and at idle, running it should be at the hot level?

When changing ATF, I'm using Valvoline for Dexron III vehicles. How would I change ATF and check the level? From what I've read, is when the car has not been running, fill until you reach the cool marks. Then turn on the car and standstill shift to all gears and back to park. As the car warms up check if the level is NEAR the hot marks. Then drive it a bit to get to the hot range and check again and see if it goes between the hot marks. Fill again as necessary. Correct me if I'm wrong.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Oct 16, 2008 - 7:38 AM


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04 Celica GT
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post Jun 5, 2009 - 7:21 PM
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I can't seem to find the filler bolt on my 5sfe can anyone help me out?


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post Jun 5, 2009 - 7:33 PM
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the fillter bolt is the side facing the front of your car. the bolt is located higher than the drain bolt. it is the only bolt that looks exactly like the drain bolt.
post Jun 6, 2009 - 3:27 PM
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i used some motul 75w-90. cost me $30 for 3 liters. Still have grinding when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd when i going about 40mph. People have said that my syncros are gone in 2nd gear. they are probably right.

So about the C52 tranny from the 7afe tranny. I just changed my clutch about a month ago and i was wondering how many bolts hold down the transmission. My friend took out the tranny and then i helped put it back together. But i think i might have forgot to torque down a bolt on the tranny with the torque wrench. I only toruqed down 4 bolts from the top half of the tranny. I couldnt find any big bolts towards the bottom of the tranny and in the chilton manual it list the amount of tranny bolts for the s54 but not for the c52. anybody know?


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post Jun 17, 2009 - 5:19 PM
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bump (w/e that means) can anybody answer my question?


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post Jun 21, 2009 - 4:52 PM
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I've been reading up about the right gearbox oil to put in my cars, and now I'm confused about what gearbox oil is right for which car.

The codes on my SS-III (Viscous LSD,FWD,Superstrut equipped) read - Trans/Axel S54 - 06D
& the codes on my GT-Four read E154F - 08B

Anyhow, after reading this ... I can't figure out whether any of this applies to my cars & What does he mean GT4 gearbox has no LSD, 185 or all including 205?

QUOTE
Gearbox Oil Selection

There are many many different grades of gearbox and differential oil. Toyota recommends GL-5 for the gearbox in all GT-Four models. Many disagree, but it is vital that a GL-5 is used, with good reason! Some use auto trans fluid with good results, it is now specified for most fwd Toyotas.

I have tried a few different gearbox oils in my eight years of ownership. The oil my ST165 came with was unknown so I changed to Pennzoil 75W-90 semi-synthetic. Despite this oil working very well in the W55 gearbox in my Celica Supra, it was not very good in the GT-Four, resulting in a notchy gearchange.

When my RC gearbox was fitted they used a Castrol oil. I assume this was Castrol Syntrac, as they suckered me NZ$35 a litre!! Despite the gearbox having just been rebuilt, the gearchange was crap! Very notchy.

I (again) changed to Redline oil, which at NZ$20 a litre was pretty reasonable. The correct oil to use in a GT-Four is 75W-90NS. This is the right viscosity rating, is a GL-5 oil and does not have friction modifiers for a LSD. The GT-Four gearbox does NOT have a limited slip diff in it! The viscous centre diff is a sealed unit and therefore unaffected by oil selection. This made a noticeable improvement to gearchange and was well worth doing.

GL-5 oil is mandatory in a GT-Four gearbox. As the excess traction of 4wd does not allow wheelspin the extra load is taken by the ring and pinion (the highest stressed parts in the gearbox). As a result of the high loads the contact surfaces of the teeth are known to wear prematurely. This was evident in my RC gearbox, which despite having new synchros had noticeable wear. We can only presume that the gearbox wore due to high mileage causing a poor gearchange. The owner used GL-4 oil to improve the gearchange, which increased ring and pinion wear. It was then rebuilt soon before I bought it. Hence use GL-5 or you will regret it.

That said, my RC gearbox was eventually replaced with a normal ST185 gearbox when the clutch failed. The gearchange in my RC box had deteriorated and I could trade the box over for only a $100 or so so I did so. I ran the new gearbox on ATF and the gearchange was excellent, who knows about the longativity though!



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post Jun 21, 2009 - 7:31 PM
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delusionz:

While I've never worked on a GT-4 to know for sure, typically all-wheel-drive cars don't have LSD, and usually if they do it's in the rear differential, not in the transmission/transaxle. The SS-III has a limited slip in the transaxle, which is why it requires a different type of fluid than your GT-4 transaxle. The reason for a different fluid is for the extra frictional forces in the LSD. The GT-4 should use just a regular GL-5 75w90 like a non-LSD front wheel drive transaxle.


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post Jun 21, 2009 - 8:35 PM
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Thanks alot for clearing that up for me blu94gt


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GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs
post Jun 22, 2009 - 1:04 AM
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hmm only 3sge with vvt-i has helical lsd right?

and just to clear things up. 7afe celica with c52 tranny is 2.7 ltr, and 5sfe with s54 tranny is 3.5 ltr right????


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post Jun 22, 2009 - 6:41 AM
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So how many liters for the 3S-GE tranny?
I have to say, my gear box isn't grinding at all, and I doubt the fluid has been changed, well, ever!
Only thing is that sometimes it is difficult to get into reverse. I need to declutch and clutch again. Honestly I don't think this is a sync or oil issue with my Celica. Reason why I think that is because every car i had with the same reverse selection method (i.e select far right low on the gear shift to select reverse), had the exact same issue. I'm currently driving an Almera as daily driver and that one is worse than the celica for selecting reverse. I had a rover 400 (same model as honda civic), which had the exact same issue. the only car that didn't have that isssue was a Passat I once had, but that had a push down mechanism to select reverse...
post Jun 22, 2009 - 5:38 PM
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3S-GE & 5S-FE use the same transmission, albeit at different ratios. I'd assume they have the same wet capacity.

3S-GE with VVT-i has nothing to do with whether LSD is equipped or not, and it's the TRD Mechanical LSD which is "Helical", Toyota OEM LSDs are Viscous.

Both SS-II & SS-III have the 3S-GE VVT-i (Beams) in 1998, Previously (1997 and earlier) both SS-II & SS-III had the older 3rd Gen 3S-GE (Silver top ACIS)

In all years SS-III always has Superstrut Suspension, Twin Piston Calipers, Viscous LSD & the latest 3S-GE engine of that year.

SS-II in all years only gets the latest 3S-GE engine but nothing else.

SS-I in all years only gets a piss poor 3S-FE which never received any improvements.


--------------------
Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR
GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs
post Sep 25, 2010 - 4:20 PM
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so when I change the fluid do I need to go through any procedure to make sure its ok, like shift through the gears before I drive it or something? or just drain and refill


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post Oct 27, 2010 - 3:53 AM
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oh WOW! my gear were grinding when I was heel toeing from 3rd to 2nd. and they would also grind when I shifted into 2nd going to the top of 1st gear. I bought 3 quarts of Pennzoil Syncromesh and all the grinding noise was gone. smile.gif so happy. This saved me the trouble of buying a used transmission


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post Nov 11, 2010 - 11:15 PM
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Bringing this back from the dead, cuz I'm dead if I don't.
I don't need to flush my tranny but I do need to top up the fluids.
I was told by my mechanic that just replaced my clutch that some gear oil was lost.
He said I need to top up not just the tranny oil but the rear end fluid as well.
I am not familiar with GT's as this one is brand new for me.
Can anyone shed some light as to where the fill plug is on a 5s and what the rear end fluid is.
Halp.


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