somethigns rong 5sfte, blaaa craig needs help Options

[urbandork]

When im runing 7 psi everything is fine. but as soon as get up to like 10 11 psi my eninge gets all wacked out.

at 10 11 psi it makes a really bad sputtering sound, jerks around and loses power. Is this the 2 bar map sensor doing that boost cut, is it cutting fuel?

i have an mbc on it because before the turbo was only doing like 4 psi. I had to take the cap off the nipple on the second pipe of the waste gate to get it to do 7 psi. Now i have it caped off with the mbc set at 7 and have problems with it when i get up int he 10 psi range.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jan 30, 2006 - 3:32 PM

[x_itchy_b_x]

are u running the proper Gap on the plugs?

[urbandork]

yup .30 right? thats what i set it at when i put the turbo on and when i did the head gasket. im running ngk coppers same coldness as the iridiums

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jan 30, 2006 - 3:47 PM

[lagos]

sounds like detonation

what injectors and piggy back are you using?

[urbandork]

safc2 and ngk i forget the number but they are coppers but run as cold as the ones in the how too i can get the number for you tho.

It runs fine at 7 psi but n e time i go near 11 or 12 it sputters. It kind is simiular to what it feels like when a person is learning how to drive stick and they mess up and stall out and the car gets all wacked out. but it feels a lil diff

[lagos]

what injectors are u running?...not spark plugs!

whats your air to fuel ratio look like?

[urbandork]

im running 42 pound bosch injectors so about 441cc

af is great i took a run today and had a stable 12 to 1 af running 67 kpa which is 9.7 pound. which means my mbc keeps a stable pressure setting and im not leaning out.

my btm set to start at 3 psi and i have it retarded a lil under half a degree for ever inch of presure.

my car runs fine with presure around 9 to 10 psi or so but when it hits around 10.4 or 72 kpa it starts acting up.

ive also noticed that it usually actus up when im punching it. after the tantrum i find that the pressure tops out at like 72 73 kpa, which is still around 10.5 psi. one time tho it spiked and sputtered at around 82 kpa which is 11.89 psi

I think im hitting boost cut/fuel cut off. do i need a fcd?

Im also using just a regular mbc perhaps i need one of thos ball spring ones that prevent boost spikes?

[NuclearHappineS]

if you hit fuel cut you should see the Check engine light come on (if you do have a working check engine light)

otherwise it could be a timing issue or a missfire (i'm leaning towards missfire but i can't be sure) ...

do you have an EGT gauge?

do you know how to read your plugs ?

a ball spring won't fix the problem...

what fuel pump are you using ? you could be maxing it out, or have a bad fuel filter .. (since it only happens at higher demand)

just a few things to check

-nuke

[urbandork]

ngk plugs bkr7es11

255 lph fuel pump

I think my cel light come on i know it did once but went off as soon as the engine got back to normal

as for an egt gauge i dont have one.

havnt check fuel filter

[presure2]

urban, is it RPM dependant or boost dependant?
what octane fuel you run? 91?

[x_itchy_b_x]

u have u btm at 3?! u only need to set it at .50 -.75 not even a full turn cause ull retard ur timing so much it wont even run at high boost and thats what it sounds like.

[urbandork]

u have u btm at 3?! u only need to set it at .50 -.75 not even a full turn cause ull retard ur timing so much it wont even run at high boost and thats what it sounds like.

no no it starts retarding at 3psi my nob thingy is like .5 per psi so at like 8 psi im retarding 4 degrees. Now that i think about it its acutally a lil below .5

urban, is it RPM dependant or boost dependant?
what octane fuel you run? 91?

91

and im not sure if its rpm or boost

it only happens with hi boost when it reaches 72 kpa/.72 bar/ 11 psi ish but i notice that it happens when i punch it from a lower rpm like 3k or so. Ive also noticed that it sometimes happens on the freeway when i punch it too

it doesnt happens all the time.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jan 30, 2006 - 8:40 PM

[NuclearHappineS]

if the CEL is coming on it's fuel cut for sure...

the 5sfe ecu will throw a CEL when it sees too much voltage from teh map sensor... when this disappears the CEL will go off

the 3sgte ecu on the other hand with throw a CEL when it sees too much voltagefrom the map sensor, but it will keep the CEL on until you turn off and turn on your car again...and untill you do that it will kill power to the turbo vacuum switching valve locking you in limp mode which is 5-7psi

if the CEL is blinking on then it's gotta be fuel cut...

time for some sort of FCD , be aware though, that if you do bypass fuel cut (fcd, zener diode, different safc settings ...etc) your fuel will definately be affected above 10psi (where the FCD is active) because your fuel is based directly on your map reading

-nuke

[Dr_Tweak]

if the CEL is coming on it's fuel cut for sure...

the 5sfe ecu will throw a CEL when it sees too much voltage from teh map sensor... when this disappears the CEL will go off

the 3sgte ecu on the other hand with throw a CEL when it sees too much voltagefrom the map sensor, but it will keep the CEL on until you turn off and turn on your car again...and untill you do that it will kill power to the turbo vacuum switching valve locking you in limp mode which is 5-7psi

if the CEL is blinking on then it's gotta be fuel cut...

time for some sort of FCD , be aware though, that if you do bypass fuel cut (fcd, zener diode, different safc settings ...etc) your fuel will definately be affected above 10psi (where the FCD is active) because your fuel is based directly on your map reading

-nuke

Since he's running the SAFC2, he should be able to upgrade the injectors another step and then reduce the MAP sensor voltage across the board, to keep a/f on (and stay below the fuel cut votage), correct?

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Jan 31, 2006 - 4:26 AM

[presure2]

you shouldnt be hitting fuel cut @ 10-11psi, ive hit 1.01bar and not hit fuel cut.
try a little less BTM.
have you been on a dyno yet?
what are your hi-throttle settings(SAFCII) from 2500rpm up?

This post has been edited by presure2: Jan 31, 2006 - 9:37 AM

[urbandork]

you shouldnt be hitting fuel cut @ 10-11psi, ive hit 1.01bar and not hit fuel cut.
try a little less BTM.
have you been on a dyno yet?
what are your hi-throttle settings(SAFCII) from 2500rpm up?

will get those to you right after class.

[dlx742]

it sound ur leaning out, ive had this happen before but at a certain rpm since i accidently deletedf a whole fuel line on my hondata.... the leaning out could be due to ur 2bar map sensor, ur ecu can only read a certain about of boost then it cuts out (for example on ym friends boosted ep3 his can only run till 11lbs (comparable to u cutting out after 10)..what u need to get is a new 3 bar map then u should be set, besides that just go by whats ur safc2 is telling u

[presure2]

craig, you said on AIM you had to ADD fuel up top?
somthing is really wrong if that is the case,
with the 440cc injectors your running you have pleanty of fuel, you shouldnt have to be adding more in.
440cc injectors are good for 270hp.
your nowhere near that.
your having some kind of fuel supply issue.

[urbandork]

manny. although im adding that much fuel most of the time ill be in the 10:1 range. For some reason its weird cus it seems that around 4k + the engine gets a lot of fuel. Ive tried taking fuel out but sometimes it acts up and leans out a lot.

im in the process of changing the fuel filter which has over 30k miles on it that i know of.

will report back after.

[presure2]

im not concerned with what your gauge reads.
if you have to add fuel to make it rich, somthing is wrong.
you already have way more fuel than you need available, you should not for any reason be having to add more up top.