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> got a smog check, and failed!
post Mar 14, 2006 - 2:46 AM
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forkee



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i passed everything with flying colors except something labeled NO(PPM). it measured at 1115 when the max was 467. this was for the 15 mph test. it passed the 25 mph test reading only 55 out of a maximum 754.

here's the rest of the readings
15 mph
hc(ppm)
max/meas
61/15 pass

co(%)
.54/.00 pass

no(ppm)
467/1115
failed

25 mph
hc(ppm)
45/14 pass

co(%)
.53/.09 pass

no(ppm)
754/55 pass

anyone know any info about this? i have a safc2 but everything is zero'd out for the time being since my turbo is out. is there a setting i can use to fix this?? im bringing it in tomorrow to get it looked at and fixed.

visual inspection and functional check passed as well.


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 2:49 AM
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Chanh55

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I think I had the same problem.. changed the egr and o2 sensors and it fixed the problem.
post Mar 14, 2006 - 2:55 AM
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forkee



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u changed it or the shop? estimated cost of repair?


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:00 AM
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Galcobar

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According to a catalytic converter manufacturer, when you've got high NOx and low HC and CO, the culprits are typically EGR, lean AFR, leaks, run-in converter, or an insufficently large converter.

post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:00 AM
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Chanh55

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They changed it... I had no way of diagnosing that... so part of the deal was they diagnose it for free if you do the repair with them. I think it costed about 200 total.

edit: grammar

This post has been edited by Chanh55: Mar 14, 2006 - 3:01 AM
post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:41 AM
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forkee



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awesome info, thanks guys biggrin.gif


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:43 AM
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Hanyo

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this is with the turbo out, but are you using larger injectors and fuel pump?
post Mar 14, 2006 - 9:20 AM
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forkee



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stock injectors but walbro fuel pump


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 1:35 PM
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Bitter

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thats a NOX failure caused by either an egr valve OR since you failed the lowspeed test probably caused by running a little lean and having high chamber temps.

NOX is formed by high combustion chamber temps, the egr valve allows exhaust gas to take up some of the volume in the chamber that would normally be occupied by the fuel/air mixture. it runs cooler because theres less combustion going on and less heat. generally the EGR only opens after you've been at a steady cruising speed with the engine above a certain rpm or the vehicle above a certain speed. you'll never notice it being open at those times.

if you have a handheld vac pump (like for vacuum bleeding brakes) you can check your egr valve. at idle hook the vac line for the valve to the vac pump and apply some vacuum. the engine should start to idle rough, if it does then the valve itself works fine. it could be a problem with the egr diaphram or a clogged vac line, but like i said i dont think the egr is open at 15mph.

so that leaves us with the likely culprit which is you're running lean at 15mph which is a little odd but not unheard of. what are you using to tune the engine with?


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 2:39 PM
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sugarfree

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My engine threw a code last night, and this morning i took it to autozone and they said i had a bad EGR valve. I bought some carb cleaner and tried to clean it, but im not sure if thast going to work. Cus i might have to disconnect the battery and reconnect it. All i know it was some sludge in the manifold. That EGR valve is $160, i really dont feel like payin that to fix this. The car runs/starts fine, so im hoping i dont have to really change it.

This post has been edited by sugarfree: Mar 14, 2006 - 2:40 PM
post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:24 PM
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Bitter

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it is possible the clean an egr valve and restore to back to a functioning state, but to do so you have to take it off the car. with carb cleaner and a metal pick CAREFULLY remove all the black carbon deposits from it that you can.

something that ive suspected causes some EGR valves to become clogged with carbon is people running higher octane fuel than the engine needs, i hear that this can cause excessive carbon buildup in the cylinder so it would make sense that it could also cause excessive carbon condensation in the egr.


yes, thats right. carbon in the EGR condenses out of the exhaust gasses just like water condenses out of the air. so perhaps a heat wrap on the egr could help keep it clear of carbon? it wouldnt hurt to give it a try smile.gif if i had an egr valve i'd try it myself but my fed spec 7afe doesnt have one.


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 3:51 PM
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sugarfree

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Yea i do run 93 octane.
post Mar 14, 2006 - 4:08 PM
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QUOTE(sugarfree @ Mar 14, 2006 - 3:51 PM) [snapback]407549[/snapback]

Yea i do run 93 octane.

is there any reason you need 93 octane?


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post Mar 14, 2006 - 5:10 PM
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sugarfree

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Nah i just figured it would help idle, but im going to go back to 89. Im goig to take off the EGR tomarrow and try to clean it. Hopefully this will work.
post Mar 14, 2006 - 9:30 PM
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QUOTE(sugarfree @ Mar 14, 2006 - 5:10 PM) [snapback]407578[/snapback]

Nah i just figured it would help idle, but im going to go back to 89. Im goig to take off the EGR tomarrow and try to clean it. Hopefully this will work.

if you want to help the idle..
clean the throttle body well
check your plugs and their gap
change your plug wires to new toyota wires (most aftermarket wires that dont cost an arm and a leg are crap)
check your air filter


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post Mar 15, 2006 - 3:11 PM
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forkee



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Well I brought it to the dealer. They said its beyond repair. I dunno how that is but dayum..... frown.gif

Now I dunno what to do


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post Mar 15, 2006 - 4:20 PM
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sugarfree

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I just cleaned mine today, 45mins and a new gasket. Disconnected the batt. and started up with no engine check light. FORKEE, do you have an engine check light?

This post has been edited by sugarfree: Mar 15, 2006 - 4:22 PM
post Mar 15, 2006 - 4:22 PM
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Bitter

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QUOTE(forkee @ Mar 15, 2006 - 3:11 PM) [snapback]408023[/snapback]

Well I brought it to the dealer. They said its beyond repair. I dunno how that is but dayum..... frown.gif

Now I dunno what to do

did they offer to buy it from you?


its not beyond repair, what are you tuned with?


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