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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 13, '06 From UnderTheGround403 Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
alright, here goes.
the last few months ive been getting a lot of trouble out of my system. first the amp ground came loose so my subs didnt work properly. i fixed it. now their acting up again. i was going to go with some 0/1 guage wire to ground my amp but the hole for wire on my amp, is only big enough for 4 guage. even with just 4 guage the wire is stuffed in there pretty good. so it looks like i can only put 4 guage into my amp.... now im having problems with my cap. in my profile there is a pic of my box. me n my friend built it. the box is 3/4" board (i believe) with 1/2" lexan top. bottom is fiberglassed (where cap is being held). there are a few small holes in the back of the box to run the wires out. box is more or less sealed, the holes in the back for the wires to run out are probably acting as a port somewhat. my cap fell apart. it is the stinger chrome one with the digital display. the top part fell off (the plastic "cap", the terminals under the "cap", the digital display...their all sliding around in my box, and just the chrome cylinder with nothing on top is bolted down to the fiberglass mount) problem is im guessing, is that there is too much pressure in the box for the cap, and the subs hit it pressureizes/depressureizes the air in the box, and the cap can't handle it. can someone please verify if this is possible and if this might be happening. |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 19, '02 From West of Atlanta Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
Pressure... probably not the problem.
My guess is vibration. The 1/2 lexan you used for your top is a little thin for me. Plastic panels look great but unless they are really thick they will resonate ie. vibrate. The vibrations are transmitted through the entire box and probably caused the top of your cap to work its way off. For a fast and easy fix pull one of the subs and pop the top back on the cap with a few drops of silicone under the edges and let it setup overnight before you crank it up. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 13, '06 From UnderTheGround403 Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) ![]() |
The terminal was stripped from inside the cap. i took it off yesterday and tried to re-screw it down, only to find where it goes into the actual capacitor is stripped, so today i went back to visions and exchanged it for a new one. was thinking of using silicone around the plastic or maybe blue loctite on the main terminal parts (under the plastic)
can anyone please tell me how strong blue loctite is...would anyone recommend it to fasten terminals to cap, not screws on top that hold wires. thanks |
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Dec 19, '02 From West of Atlanta Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) ![]() |
Blue loctite is medium strength. Should work fine.
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 21, '05 From NY Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Why would you put Cap into the enclosure?
1) It will die faster because of pressure and vibration. 2) It will not work to its potential because it get's really hot in SUB box, especially if its a sealed one. 3) More holes in your box = more places for less clean bass, little holes make a lot of difference. PS: Are those, the subs that have led's on top of the cone? LOL, great way to add extra unwanted weight to the cone. More weight = less power = less clarity = looks cool ![]() But overall you did a great job, it look's nice ![]() -------------------- <<AKA THA RUSSIAN>>
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: July 24th, 2025 - 11:34 AM |