more power, add 2nd alternator for more power at 14V Options

[nightrider]

You cannot effectively drive 1000w (RMS) amps using standard 12V battery supply. I have tried every trick in the book and you cannot maintain 14V for more than 10 minutes with the volume cranked up.

I have now added a second high output alternator hooked up to a small battery in the back and two 2 farad caps. This goes straight to my Alpine MRD100 mono block amp, what a sound, sets off car and shop alarms continualsy!!!

[eliaz]

And you are not deaf now?

[mzztoyota]

hah! you are a genius!

~wrings hands like a mad scientist~

"where's my wrench...?"

lol...that's awesome, congrats

[K-ESD]

how did you bolt on that second alt?

[XS4lv1Truch0x]

what do they bump in london? like what kinda music?

lol i could imagine all dat techno bass and all dat lol

damm but 1000 rms, dass alot. im barely pushing 300 rms on my amp "150 each sub" lol

kinda weak but they still bump!

This post has been edited by XS4lv1Truch0x: Aug 23, 2006 - 3:34 AM

[nightrider]

I have a single 15" running 2 coils at 2ohms @ 1000RMS its not hard on the ears but very hard on the chest. It sounds explosive and does not need to run at top volume to feel the power!! Hard Dancehall and RNB does the job just right. I will post pics on site soon but its just a bracket off the 1st alt to the 2nd and back to the AC unit. the only drawback is it is now vey thirsty on fuel!!!!

[trdproven]

Doesn't capacitors help from draining the battery or are you talking about keeping the power continuous throughout play?

[K-ESD]

Doesn't capacitors help from draining the battery or are you talking about keeping the power continuous throughout play?

i believe he's talking about generating more electrical power, he used to be consuming more power than the stock charging system could produce and his system would drain a notch every time the bass hits.

caps only smooth out the ripple caused by the amp draining the system the moment the bass hits. they do not reduce power consumtion in any way.


*system = electrical system of the car, alternator + battery

for more info, look into www.bcae1.com

[dustinkemp]

im running 1200 rms with only a second battery with no problem, but sounds like you got a good set up going

[tim86]

i need to do something like this, im at about 1000rms but still have the stock alternator with an optima battery...

[celicast3sgte]

WEAK! i ran 2400rms on my buddies 05' RSX.... now THAT is too much bass, it made your throat itch at 1/2 volume

[afroman]

i run 2300 rms on 1 battery and have no problems. MCH-1300 (memphis belle)and MCD-1000. the one catch is my battery is a Kinetik HC2400. thats one huge battery.
-Aaron-

This post has been edited by afroman: Sep 5, 2006 - 9:43 PM

[tim86]

i run 2300 rms on 1 battery and have no problems. MCH-1300 (memphis belle)and MCD-1000. the one catch is my battery is a Kinetik HC2400. thats one huge battery.
-Aaron-

where did you order yours from? thats one badass battery

[afroman]

i have a hook up, we compete and know the rep. i only paid 200 for my battery.
-aaron-

[nightrider]

I have no doubts that your systems are well put together, however you cannot run big bass amps off batteries as they require the power much faster than what a battery can give no matter what the size. Next, capacitors need to go between the batt and the amp, but they will lose their charge sooner rather than later. Most bass amps are rated at a constant supply voltage of 14V. You just cannot sustain that level of current with your lights, heating and engine all running and playing heavy bass tunes.

[afroman]

i understand where you are coming from. if i had the money i would run a large alt. but with that said i know many people that run large amps off just a battery and stock alt. that can sustain above 13V. there will be no noticable difference in spl with a 1 volt drop. example. 2 kicker 900.4 (AB lesss efficent than D class) on a stock alt of a honda B16a swaped integra and 1 large stinger battery. or in another integra kicker 2500.1 on 2 Diamond D9 12s. stock alt with yellow top under hood and small kinetik in the trunk. both cars can run loud bass songs for a long time and run above 13V.
-Aaron-

[Niskyspy]

Sorry, but I won't believe you until I see the pics of 2nd alternator installed!!! And if u did do it, I give you mad props for actually getting it to work.
I have a question for you now, how did u wire up the 2nd alternator to your power system? Do u use one for ur car and one just for your system or what?

Here's a couple of .02 cents from me about what you did.
1) Get rid of them stupid caps! All they are doing is limiting your system, caps are only good for the first couple of seconds, after that its just a waist and it just kills your system performance.
2) Why did u put in 2nd alternator??? There is no need for that especially with 1000Watt RMS amp. All you needed to do is just get kenetic battery (fast chargin - dischargin time battery which costs $200) I've seen them work. It hold up 13.5-14V for bout 5-8sec and this is more then enought for a big bass hit or 5-8sec of 65Hz tone burst (which is more then enough because u only supose to hold it for 2-4sec on the SPL meter) So you just waited your time and money on that 2nd alternator and 2nd battery, unless you are planning on going full out SPL and getting 3000-5000Watt RMS AMP. And for ur info, amps are rated at 14.4V. On average a good amp lets use JBL BP1200.1 as an example at full power which is 1000Watt RMS it takes 148amps, your stock ALT=70-75AMP's -ENGINE - HU&someother**** =60AMPS. Kinetic fast reacharging battery will get the AMPS up to what JBL1200.1 needs!!! (I've actually seen it done)

PS: I am not sure u actually know what you are talking about, because you didn't really show any knowlage (but at least u do know the basic things about SPL).

PLEASE POST PICS OF UR SETUP

i understand where you are coming from. if i had the money i would run a large alt. but with that said i know many people that run large amps off just a battery and stock alt. that can sustain above 13V. there will be no noticable difference in spl with a 1 volt drop. example. 2 kicker 900.4 (AB lesss efficent than D class) on a stock alt of a honda B16a swaped integra and 1 large stinger battery. or in another integra kicker 2500.1 on 2 Diamond D9 12s. stock alt with yellow top under hood and small kinetik in the trunk. both cars can run loud bass songs for a long time and run above 13V.
-Aaron-

Try not getting too much into arguments until we see some pics . And yes a good stock ALT and good battery like Kinetic (fast charge/discharge rate) with perform as good as 2nd alternator up to a point. The only pro's of 2nd alternator with 1000Watt rms amp is that he can run 65Hz tone burst until his eardrums pop

This post has been edited by Niskyspy: Sep 13, 2006 - 8:30 PM

[nightrider]

Yee of little faith!! Do I swap one of my profile pics to get a pic of my 2nd alt on the site, if so I will do it 2morrow, weep and see!!! I use the 2nd alt just to power the mono block and mid high amps. Alt – rear batt – 2 X CAP = X 2 amps. This setup gets me a constant 14.4V which is clean and powerful. I now have competition class sound and I can still run all my strobes, neons, AV, heater lights and just about anything with no loss of sound quality or power.

I have tried all sorts of batts and amp / sub configurations and they just sound good for a while but under heavy traffic conditions it all starts to sound like crap. I will now get a more powerful amp that can better use all the new current that I have.

Pics first then we will see what you think?

[Niskyspy]

Yee of little faith!! Do I swap one of my profile pics to get a pic of my 2nd alt on the site, if so I will do it 2morrow, weep and see!!! I use the 2nd alt just to power the mono block and mid high amps. Alt – rear batt – 2 X CAP = X 2 amps. This setup gets me a constant 14.4V which is clean and powerful. I now have competition class sound and I can still run all my strobes, neons, AV, heater lights and just about anything with no loss of sound quality or power.

I have tried all sorts of batts and amp / sub configurations and they just sound good for a while but under heavy traffic conditions it all starts to sound like crap. I will now get a more powerful amp that can better use all the new current that I have.

Pics first then we will see what you think?

its 28th still dont see any pics
Would u mind explaining why you stll have two caps, if u are running 14.4V at any load?

[nightrider]

u no I am playing with u??? I am some what flummoxed that you would ask the question? The alt goes straight to a 2nd battery in the boot this then powers the mono block via two caps to ensure that the amp gets the power at the demand speed rather than what the battery can supply. You of course already know this as you have stated that you use fast discharge batteries. Now I am not being bitchy but your car pics are not the ones I would write home about, but I can understand that you will at some point transform it into something that has a little more street credibility. Sorry I did not mean to dis u, pics on site tomorrow and you will need some ideas because my system delivers bass like you have never heard alarms and fellow traffic users all know I am about!!!

[nightrider]

sorry, 4got to mention, u lose 1 volt per fuse, dist blocks no good ????? run straight from cap feed!!!

[soven]

I am baffled, where do you get all your "facts" from.......

[Bitter]

wheres the pics?

[K-ESD]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

[6th_celi_vert]

i run 2300 rms on 1 battery and have no problems. MCH-1300 (memphis belle)and MCD-1000. the one catch is my battery is a Kinetik HC2400. thats one huge battery.
-Aaron-

I have the same battery, theyre awesome.

[nightrider]

The Power Capacitor is an energy storage capacitor. It is designed
to supplement audio amplifiers power supply during high current
demand. The overall bass response of your audio system will be
enhanced with the using of this device due to it´s ability to store a
large amount of current and discharge it in a short period of time.
Combined with a good car battery and powerful DC-wiring will
make you experience a new dimension in the bass sound.
Another significant feature of the Power Cap is it´s ability to filter
car AC voltage induced in the system by the amplifiers power
supply which could cause objectionable noise to be induced into
the audio system. We recommend using a capacitor of 1 Farad
for each 500 Watts amplifier power. You can never have too much
capacitance in an audio system.
INSTALLATION / MOUNTING:
The Power Cap should be mounted as close to the amplifier as
possible and keep the wires short to reduce voltage drop in the
cable. Use the two mounting brackets to fix the capacitor near the
amplifier.
WIRING:
Use the same cable area to the capacitor as the one you use to
the amplifier. The Power Cap should be fused at the battery, don´t
place any fuse between the Power Cap and the amplifier. Mount
the fuse as in the drawing below. Use the same cable area for the
ground wire. The capacitor should be connected in parallel with the
positive feed to the amplifier. Use a power block as in the drawing
below. If you have a model with the power block included on the
top of the capacitor you use this for connecting.
NOTE! The capacitor must be charged before it´s connected
into the system. Read the part about charging before
connecting the capacitor.
Capacity 0,5 Farad 1 Farad 1,5 Farad
Max voltage 20 DCV 20 DCV 20 DCV
Tolerance -10% +50% -10% +50% -10% +50%
Max. temp. 95 C 95 C 95 C

[nightrider]

These are the ratings from JBL for the Amps that have been used as examples. 78 to 190amps of current. This is by far way above what you can get from any stock Alt. The location of the Alt will prevent the fitting of anything bigger as it will hit the bonnet of the car. Please supply the batt details as I will swap out the one in the boot and let you know if its at all better?

Px300.4 Px600.2 BPx500.1 BPx1100.1 BPx2200.1
Power Output, 150W x 4 300W x 2 250W x 2 575W x 2 1100W x 2
2 Ohms Current Draw 78A 78A 50A 110A 190A

[nightrider]

The Kinetick batt as described is rated as 81 amps? How do you get this up to 190Amps?

Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2"

[nightrider]

Finally, I have added a pic to my profile, what do you think?

[Sinyk]

Finally, I have added a pic to my profile, what do you think?

Nice setup with that alt. Now how about some stereo pics? If you don't want to put them here, go to sounddomain.com and make a car site there.

I've seen this done before, but usually with setups over 1000rms. I ran a lot more than that with a deep cycle battery, one 1 farad cap and stock alt and it ran great in comps, but if i ran my system "balls to the wall" for about 30 seconds, my system would shut off due to undervoltage, but why the hell I would run over 145db's for that duration is beyond me.

You must be running constant, low freq, heavy bass all the time to require a second alternator with only 1000 rms and one 15.

oh well, if you can get all that power and for some reason require it, then go nuts and have fun doing it.

This post has been edited by Sinyk: Oct 10, 2006 - 2:31 PM

[Niskyspy]

Here are the pics that nightrider sent me of his 2nd alternator!!!
Great job dude, 100 cudos for u

[nightrider]

thanks for the comp, how come you can get the pics into your reply? I had so much probs with voltage and current as I run deep bass almost all the time on my way to work. This means I got the lights heaters and wipers on and i am in traffick so the revs dont go up much. I was just fed up with the power drops that I went for the option of the 2nd alt as a number of comp cars have this. I am using the Alpine MRD 1000 but I can now look at much bigger amps for my system. I will slot a bigger mono block just as soon as the cash flow will allow.

[nightrider]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

I am told that a fuse drops a volt due to resistance? am I right?

[Niskyspy]

To upload pics:
1)Go to www.photobucket.com and register, (its free)
2)Upload your pics
3)When they are done uploading u'll see em on the screen
4)Select the pics that you want in ur post (using check marks)
5)At the bottom of the screen there is a button, something like HTML code, press it
6)Then it will load a page with bunch of windows and links to your pictures in different style
7)Copy the text that is for forum's/boards
8)Paste it into ur reply and u'll have your pictures posted.

That is it!!!

[K-ESD]

where's that 1 volt drop when i stick my meter leads across my dist. block?

I am told that a fuse drops a volt due to resistance? am I right?

I did a little test on my "cheap" dist block and found a 0.01 volt drop across my main fuse (120A). That was with a low current tho, things will probly heat up at high current but I doubt it will result in a whole one volt drop.

[afroman]

The Kinetick batt as described is rated as 81 amps? How do you get this up to 190Amps?

Kinetik HC1800 Power Cell Full size powerhouse. Fits vehicles with larger battery boxes. Capable of powering nearly any system without compromise. Specifications Weight: 54 lbs. Ah: 81 Amps: 1900 Dimensions: 10" x 6.5" x 8.2"

im not sure what you are getting at but i have the HC2400 and it has
Specifications
Weight: 69 lbs.
Ah: 128
Amps: 2600
Dimensions: 13" x 6.7" x 8.5"
Suggested Retail: $449.00
thats 2600 amps and 128 Amp hours (Ah)

Im not sure really why there was such a question i never said you didnt do it. nice work

-Aaron-

[n1ckz0r]

i was going to hook up two P600.1bd to two 12 inch alpine r's. I work at Best Buy so, i get uber discounts on this stuff and almost went crazy and did it, but it would have destroyed my car. LOL loud stereo ftw

[nightrider]

Thanks for the comps guys, we over here will normally take out the AC unit and replace it with a 2nd Alt. However as you can see by the pics all stock parts are still in. I had to move the fuse holder to make room. The difference between 14.4V and 12V on my Alpine MRD 1000 is 500W to 350W @ 4 ohms. This is more pronounced at 2 ohm loads. So 2.4 volts makes a big difference to my bass and when you chuck in the AV and under car lighting set up 7 tubes (exterior) and five tubes (interior) you quickly run out of volts. I also use a auto blow electronic fuse in the engine bay and another in the boot just in case The line is severed in a crash as I do not want to fry with the caps pushing all that power (3 Farads). I am now looking for Solo Baraic (square Sub 15) and a beefy mono block to claim top spot in the Bass stakes. Any ideas on this setup guys???