Compression Test Results, update: new comp test results Options

[elvasoshexai]

hm.. this is kinda both engine and FI question... but i think i'll just put it here:

I had a compression test done today just to see how my engine is doing...
1st-150
2nd-150
3rd-140
4th-150

brand new engine would be approx 180 or so psi... but my numbers are still acceptable right?

i think anything above 100 is fine for stock engine and anything above 130 is fine for turbo engine?

my engine has about 100000miles on it...

even though these numbers are acceptable... is it necessary to take a further look into it?

with these numbers would it be safe to go FI?

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 26, 2006 - 6:04 PM

[Bitter]

its pretty good, my engine was 165 on 3 of them and 160 on one of the cylinders. the 140 is a bit of a blip, you should have a leakdown test done if possible to see where the compression is going to. its usually leaking past the rings and valves.

[WALKER]

BGB says:
Compression pressure: 178psi or more
Minimum pressure: 142psi
Difference between cylinder: 14psi or less

[presure2]

hm.. this is kinda both engine and FI question... but i think i'll just put it here:

I had a compression test done today just to see how my engine is doing...
1st-150
2nd-150
3rd-140
4th-150

brand new engine would be approx 180 or so psi... but my numbers are still acceptable right?

i think anything above 100 is fine for stock engine and anything above 130 is fine for turbo engine?

my engine has about 100000miles on it...

even though these numbers are acceptable... is it necessary to take a further look into it?

with these numbers would it be safe to go FI?

i would do a leakdown test before going any further with those results.
did you do the test yourself?

[elvasoshexai]

BGB says:
Compression pressure: 178psi or more
Minimum pressure: 142psi
Difference between cylinder: 14psi or less

what's BGB?

hm... so i guess i'm near the edge

i would do a leakdown test before going any further with those results.
did you do the test yourself?

nah. i had a garage do the compression test...
hm... yea.. i'll probably get a leakdown test done when i have time again

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 9, 2006 - 11:47 PM

[elvasoshexai]

hm... a lot of people are saying those are really bad numbers and that maybe the test wasn't done right.. and that if the numbers are really that bad to just toss the engine since such low compression #s probably won't be cheap to fix...

should i jsut try to do another myself first?

if i do it myself.. i gotta buy a kit.. does this seem ok:

equus compression tester kit:
-Large, easy-to-read 2½" dial face with dual-calibrated, colour-coded scales
-15" high-pressure rubber hose
-Side-release valve allows repeated tests without disconnecting the hose
-One 12mm and one 14mm adapter included for broader applications such as motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles, and watercraft
-Quick-disconnect fitting for easy installation



This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 15, 2006 - 12:16 PM

[Bitter]

the BGB spec is for a NEW engine, keep that in mind. it should be 178 or better when rebuilt, not at 100K+ miles. 150 is a little low, but i wouldnt say its indicative of a bad engine, just a worn engine.

[elvasoshexai]

the BGB spec is for a NEW engine, keep that in mind. it should be 178 or better when rebuilt, not at 100K+ miles. 150 is a little low, but i wouldnt say its indicative of a bad engine, just a worn engine.

o, ic. reason was i seen so many people post their numbers which were around 180 and their engines were all over 100k miles

[Bitter]

the BGB spec is for a NEW engine, keep that in mind. it should be 178 or better when rebuilt, not at 100K+ miles. 150 is a little low, but i wouldnt say its indicative of a bad engine, just a worn engine.

o, ic. reason was i seen so many people post their numbers which were around 180 and their engines were all over 100k miles

well it is possible the garage bumbled something, but not much would make that large of a difference. your engine is worn, its old. rebuild it its really not as hard as it seems1 or that expensive, just time consuming.

[lagos]

get your own kit and do the test yourself. also, google "compression test" and read all the howto's on it. a lot of things can affect the numbers, like if it was done hot or cold, if the gas pedal was at wot, if the efi fuse was pulled out, etc...

your numbers seem ok. the only one i would doubble check is cyl 3. the idea when doing the test isint to really get all high numbers, but to get numbers that are very even across all 4cyl.

a leakdown test would also be a great idea.

This post has been edited by lagos: Sep 15, 2006 - 1:08 PM

[elvasoshexai]

does not doing the compression test @ WOT affect the results much? apparently when mine was done, they jsut did it w/o gas padel

probably doing the leakdown next sat...'

would a wet compression test be any use for my car?

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 15, 2006 - 3:11 PM

[Bitter]

open or closed throttle, in my experiences, makes almost no difference.

The wet compression check is a follow up check useful to determine the condition of the piston rings. Some perform it every time they perform a compression check, others do not. I perform it when I see lower than expected readings, especially if it is only one cylinder. The common instructions are, "pour one teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and test". Frankly, I always spill oil all over when I try to pour it from a tea spoon into a spark plug hole and, then to compound the problem, always get caught trying to sneak the wife's teaspoon back into the house. Then, I learned a better way. Get one of the pump type oil cans and find out how many strokes of the plunger it takes to fill one, level teaspoon full. Then, you can insert the spout of the oil can and depress the plunger the required number of times without making a mess. Insert the oil into number one spark plug hole and repeat the compression test on that cylinder, note your reading under the "wet" column and repeat for the other cylinders. The wet compression check will, in most cases, be higher than the dry compression check. This is because the oil creates a better seal against the top of the piston rings and the cylinder bore. The LOWER the difference in readings between the dry and wet checks, the better the condition of the bores and rings.

http://www.custompistols.com/cars/articles/compression.htm

[elvasoshexai]

i finally got a leakdown test done...
1st - 10% leakage
2nd - 12% leakage
3rd - 20% leakage
4th - 9% leakage

seems pretty good to me

also redid compression test on 3rd, and it is 140. still within spec of toyota's 14psi between all 4 cyl.

i think that the low compression is just a worn engine (100k miles engine)

i didin't bother checking where it was leaking from because my mech did this for me for free on a saturday afternoon after his shopped closed and i didn't feel like wasting too much of his afternoon

so now that i have both leakdown and compression...

is it safe to say my engine is in fairly good condition, fit for FI?



This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 23, 2006 - 2:25 PM

[Bitter]

the 20% leakage on 3 worries me. did you do a wet compression test?

[presure2]

cylinder 3 has me worried.
do a wet compression test, if the # goes up more than 20psi or so, id be worried about the rings under boost.

[elvasoshexai]

er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 24, 2006 - 5:39 PM

[presure2]

er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

use the puller on the inside of your fuse box cover in your engine bay.
pull the coil wire @ the coil (its the center plug)

[elvasoshexai]

er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

use the puller on the inside of your fuse box cover in your engine bay.
pull the coil wire @ the coil (its the center plug)

er... for the ignition coil.. there's like 4 plugs right? if u are standing at the front of your car, it's 2 on the right side (beside each other) and 2 on the left side right (on top of eacho ther)?... when you say pull the coil wire @ the coil (center plug)... which one is it?

in the bgb there is an ignition coil resistance test and there is a primary and secondary ignition resistance test... i've been trying to pull the primary one... is that the right one?

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 25, 2006 - 1:46 PM

[presure2]

er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

use the puller on the inside of your fuse box cover in your engine bay.
pull the coil wire @ the coil (its the center plug)

er... for the ignition coil.. there's like 4 plugs right? if u are standing at the front of your car, it's 2 on the right side (beside each other) and 2 on the left side right (on top of eacho ther)?... when you say pull the coil wire @ the coil (center plug)... which one is it?

in the bgb there is an ignition coil resistance test and there is a primary and secondary ignition resistance test... i've been trying to pull the primary one... is that the right one?

the center wire on your distributor cap is the coil wire. you can unplug it there, or follow the wire back to the coil and unplug it there.

[elvasoshexai]

er... i'm tryin to do a wet comp test myself but i can't pull the EFI fuse out and which ignition coil plug do i pull out? i just tried to pull the top one on the left side of it and it wouldn't come off...

am i just really weak or is there some kinda trick to get these off?

use the puller on the inside of your fuse box cover in your engine bay.
pull the coil wire @ the coil (its the center plug)

er... for the ignition coil.. there's like 4 plugs right? if u are standing at the front of your car, it's 2 on the right side (beside each other) and 2 on the left side right (on top of eacho ther)?... when you say pull the coil wire @ the coil (center plug)... which one is it?

in the bgb there is an ignition coil resistance test and there is a primary and secondary ignition resistance test... i've been trying to pull the primary one... is that the right one?

the center wire on your distributor cap is the coil wire. you can unplug it there, or follow the wire back to the coil and unplug it there.

er.. sorry for the noob questions.. how do these type of plugs come off? just pull? cause it's not coming off (ok i hope its the right one now... it's where all the other plug wires go rite?)

[presure2]

there are small plastic clips holding them on...sometimes a small screwdriver will help you pry back the little tab enough to pull the wire off.

[elvasoshexai]

ugh.. is it actually necessary to pull the ignition coil wire out to do the comp test?

my friends tells me no need.. but when i read some comp test thing online.. it tells me to unplug it

[Bitter]

all you need to do is...
pull the EFI fuse and take the spark plugs out.

[elvasoshexai]

all you need to do is...
pull the EFI fuse and take the spark plugs out.

................................ damn

[elvasoshexai]

ok i just did the test myself... originally i was planning to do a wet comp test on cyl3...

i let the car warm up.. then drove it around the neighbourhood kinda hard... then parked in my garage... waited about 10min for engine bay to cool down then went to work

i decided to first to a dry myself so i could calculate how much psi it would go up by when i do the wet...

so then i started to do the dry on cyl3... just cranking... didnt step on accelerator... and cranked until needle stopped going up and the # surprised me... then i did a dry on the remaining 3 cylinders... these were the numbers with the dry i did:
1st- 172psi
2nd- 171psi
3rd- 168psi
4th- 172psi

so in the end i didn't bother doing the wet...

not sure y these results are so different than when my mech did it... i'm a bit surprised... because i was holding the guage watching it go up while he cranked the car...

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 26, 2006 - 6:48 PM

[Bitter]

did he pull all the sparkplugs?

now im worried about #2. run several wet and dry tests back to back, you could have a leak between 2 and 3 in the gasket or something is warped.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Sep 26, 2006 - 6:45 PM

[elvasoshexai]

did he pull all the sparkplugs?

now im worried about #2. run several wet and dry tests back to back, you could have a leak between 2 and 3 in the gasket or something is warped.

oops sorrie.. it's a typo should be 171. my bad.. lemme edit that

This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Sep 26, 2006 - 6:48 PM

[Bitter]

hmm, maybe the motor was cold when he ran it or he didnt pull all the plugs out? weird. do a wet test too.

[Celicaguy13]

I tested mine last week. 1995 7a-fe 164k miles.

Comp. 210 across the board.
Leakdown: 5-7%. Healthy engine