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> wheel bearings?, need replacing
post Jun 24, 2003 - 3:52 PM
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Pvc99gT

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anyone have any info on this?? i was told me drivers side fron wheel bearing needs to be replaced, i hear a crackling/grinding sound when i drive... how do i fix it? or do i need to go to a shop?
post Jun 24, 2003 - 5:07 PM
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aaronc222



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It would be easiest to take it to a shop. It's slightly more complicated than changing brake pads.

If it's grinding, then the bearings are probably frozen(rusted or have sand in them keeping them from rolling) and need to be replaced.
post Jun 24, 2003 - 8:16 PM
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Pvc99gT

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they want like 500 to replace em. that is ridiculous! it cant take more than half an hour to do it, plus im good with this kinda thing. if i know how to do it or someone has told me, then i can do it no problem, just need to borrow my buddies jack stands. either way, the place that quoted me is shady as hell. they installed my underdrive pulley and while they were taking off the old pulley, the screw broke cuz it was rusted a bit. they didnt try to get the half of screw out or anything they said it was tough luck unless i wanted to pay a few extra hundred to have them drill it out. they said there was enough thread to just put in a new, shorter screw (which cost me like $15) so for some reason i dont believe them when they quote me 500 on a wheel bearing, unless theyre gonna do all 4 of em, even tho only one is clickin or anything and i bet the reason its clicking in the first place is that they did a crappy job fixing it in the first place after i juiced my drivers front wheel. "worry free warranty" my ass. well anyway, what should i do? if its not on the ridiculously difficult side i can do it w/ instruction as long as i dont need some weird expensive tools. can i buy the parts i need at a store or will i have to go to a dealer or what? it seems on the harder side, but definitely do-able, can i get some more info before i blow that much money on somethin i can prolly do myself, and oh yea i wont be going to the same shop of course.
post Jun 24, 2003 - 11:49 PM
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It's not too hard to change em but takes more than a half hour to do it.. BIggest thing is to know that theres a cir clip behind the bearing, if ya don't take that out it's rather hard ahaha foud that out the hard way,, ahah 30 ton press made short work of it though
post Jun 28, 2003 - 12:31 AM
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Pvc99gT

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so where would i buy some new wheel bearings? or just direct me to some more info. I searched it on the web and just came up with a buncha shops that change em. just at like any auto parts store? thanks for all the help! wink.gif
post Jun 28, 2003 - 2:44 AM
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Kwanza



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QUOTE (Pvc99gT @ Jun 27, 2003 - 9:45 PM)
so where would i buy some new wheel bearings? or just direct me to some more info. I searched it on the web and just came up with a buncha shops that change em. just at like any auto parts store? thanks for all the help! wink.gif

Pep Boys, Autozone... wherever you prefer. Wheel bearings are a commonly replaced thing...so it shouldn't be very difficult to find.
post Jul 3, 2003 - 3:51 AM
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QUOTE (Pvc99gT @ Jun 24, 2003 - 5:30 PM)
they want like 500 to replace em. that is ridiculous! it cant take more than half an hour to do it, plus im good with this kinda thing. if i know how to do it or someone has told me, then i can do it no problem, just need to borrow my buddies jack stands. either way, the place that quoted me is shady as hell. they installed my underdrive pulley and while they were taking off the old pulley, the screw broke cuz it was rusted a bit. they didnt try to get the half of screw out or anything they said it was tough luck unless i wanted to pay a few extra hundred to have them drill it out. they said there was enough thread to just put in a new, shorter screw (which cost me like $15) so for some reason i dont believe them when they quote me 500 on a wheel bearing, unless theyre gonna do all 4 of em, even tho only one is clickin or anything and i bet the reason its clicking in the first place is that they did a crappy job fixing it in the first place after i juiced my drivers front wheel. "worry free warranty" my ass. well anyway, what should i do? if its not on the ridiculously difficult side i can do it w/ instruction as long as i dont need some weird expensive tools. can i buy the parts i need at a store or will i have to go to a dealer or what? it seems on the harder side, but definitely do-able, can i get some more info before i blow that much money on somethin i can prolly do myself, and oh yea i wont be going to the same shop of course.

I paid about $220 to get mine replaced...
post Apr 29, 2010 - 1:33 PM
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zfjohnson07

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to avoid opening a new thread about about wheel bearings i want a more thorough explanation of how to if anyone knows how. heres whats happening with my car ive taken my brakes off and the rotor and put it back on to tighten it up and put it back on the noise goes away for about 2 hours and then out of no where BAM you can feel it while driving like the rotor is bouncing around .. strange well thats how i can explain it. i assume its the wheel bearings but its only my drivers side.. so idk.. but like i said i was hoping for a how to put wheel bearings on your car..
post Apr 29, 2010 - 9:50 PM
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If you disassemble the car yourself, you can probably pay a service tech about $50 to press out the old bearings and press in new ones...


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It will take him a moment to realize that he's about to make a 180 degree turn at speed, but you will be ready for it. Brace for the g's, and fast heel-toe work.
post Apr 30, 2010 - 3:01 AM
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QUOTE (qatar11 @ Apr 29, 2010 - 9:50 PM) *
If you disassemble the car yourself, you can probably pay a service tech about $50 to press out the old bearings and press in new ones...


Yeah do that, its a pain in the arse to use the press and its easy to mess it up. Make sure they are changed before it develops play otherwise you will be up for a new flange and/or hub.
post Apr 30, 2010 - 3:48 AM
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QUOTE (Pvc99gT @ Jun 24, 2003 - 10:52 AM) *
anyone have any info on this?? i was told me drivers side fron wheel bearing needs to be replaced, i hear a crackling/grinding sound when i drive... how do i fix it? or do i need to go to a shop?


what ever you see dis-assembled is how you get to the wheel hub that hold the bearing
17mm tie rod and ball joint nuts and bolts
stock 19mm strut nuts and bolts
30mm axle nut
14mm brake caliper bracket bolts
12mm brake caliper bolts

hang the caliper on the strut as shown
clean and take the hub to a shop to get it pressed in and out
food for thought: do the seals and make sure they're good quality ones






hope the crackling and grinding doesnt result as the following laugh.gif or you're ****ed thumbsup.gif


This post has been edited by 808celica: Apr 30, 2010 - 3:52 AM


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Apr 30, 2010 - 6:46 AM
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qatar11

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QUOTE (Euphoria @ Apr 30, 2010 - 4:01 AM) *
Yeah do that, its a pain in the arse to use the press and its easy to mess it up. Make sure they are changed before it develops play otherwise you will be up for a new flange and/or hub.


Yep - that happened to me..... unexpected snagged a new hub from a yard for $40? and still swapped out the bearing for new



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It will take him a moment to realize that he's about to make a 180 degree turn at speed, but you will be ready for it. Brace for the g's, and fast heel-toe work.
post Apr 30, 2010 - 9:14 AM
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garin



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$500 dollars is not bad for a bearing. most shops charge $65+ an hour. i did a wheel bearing in the winter. a press is needed. the bearing cost me around $40 bucks and the inner and outer seal cost maybe $15. a lot of shops will replace the whole hub assembly instead of press bearings out and in.


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post Apr 30, 2010 - 9:30 AM
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zfjohnson07

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i know they said i can buy it and get it pressed at napa my main concern was i dont know how to disassemble it to get to the wheel bearing. i know how to take the rotor of n what not but i dont know what to do after that
post Apr 30, 2010 - 9:56 AM
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QUOTE (808celica @ Apr 30, 2010 - 4:48 AM) *
hope the crackling and grinding doesnt result as the following laugh.gif or you're ****ed thumbsup.gif


This is exactly what happened to me.... first time it caused my axle to snap in half at 85 mph. That was fun. Second time didn't really do that. Both times though I just picked up a hub from a yard and haven't had any problems since.
post Apr 30, 2010 - 9:57 AM
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playr158



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a) loosen lug nuts
b) jack up car
c) car on jack stands <-important
d) remove wheel
e) Loosen the axle nut (dead center of the hub/wheel assembly, its rather large nut)
e2) to remove the axle nut get a breaker bar and the socket, have a partner sit in the car and push the brakes to prevent rotation and break the nut loose/remove)
f) remove the brake caliper assembly w/pads (2 bolts on back of knuckle)
g) remove the rotor
h) remove the tie rod end (steering) from the nuckle (one nut)
i) unbolt the bottom ball joint from the CONTROL ARM (3 bolts)
j) unbolt 2 knuckle to strut bolts (top)
k) pull knuckle forward and off of car (note you might need to tap the axle out of it using a hard(er) rubber mallet to convince it to come out)

you should end with this



^take this and your new wheel bearings (autozone/advanced auto carries them) to your local shop

OPTIONAL:
now is also a good time to replace that bottom balljoint
use undo the top nut that holds it onto the knuckle and using a pickle fork remove it from the knuckle.

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 30, 2010 - 9:59 AM
post Apr 30, 2010 - 11:30 AM
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garin



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QUOTE (zfjohnson07 @ Apr 30, 2010 - 10:30 AM) *
i know they said i can buy it and get it pressed at napa my main concern was i dont know how to disassemble it to get to the wheel bearing. i know how to take the rotor of n what not but i dont know what to do after that

get the in shop procedures from a source such as all data, mitchell, or a data bas like that. in the procedure there are torque specs along with how to go about fixing the bearing. i believe if i remember correctly most of the nuts and bolts are 19mm or 17mm. the axle nut is like a 30. remember to replace cotter pins...


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post Apr 30, 2010 - 1:43 PM
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zfjohnson07

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wow i tried to take off the bottom ball joints and couldnt even get it to move
post Apr 30, 2010 - 2:14 PM
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Spider77



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Mallet and maybe a good ol punch....big punch. But probably just a mallet should work fine.
post Apr 30, 2010 - 3:45 PM
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zfjohnson07

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ha well i went to a mechanic he said i should replace my wheel bearing, ball joints and hubs good idea? and cv axel sometime?
post Apr 30, 2010 - 4:35 PM
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there's a pretty good how-to on replacing the front wheel bearings by eggman40.

How To Replace Wheel Bearing (Front)


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post Apr 30, 2010 - 4:44 PM
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zfjohnson07

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yeah i got the just of it down but thanks man that helps me out. how hard are ball joints?

This post has been edited by zfjohnson07: Apr 30, 2010 - 4:44 PM
post Apr 30, 2010 - 11:06 PM
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garin



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QUOTE (zfjohnson07 @ Apr 30, 2010 - 4:45 PM) *
ha well i went to a mechanic he said i should replace my wheel bearing, ball joints and hubs good idea? and cv axel sometime?

all though suggestions are good, if needed...


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post May 1, 2010 - 8:57 AM
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qatar11

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Sure if you have nothing else to do with your money....


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It will take him a moment to realize that he's about to make a 180 degree turn at speed, but you will be ready for it. Brace for the g's, and fast heel-toe work.
post May 1, 2010 - 12:18 PM
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garin



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QUOTE (zfjohnson07 @ Apr 30, 2010 - 5:44 PM) *
yeah i got the just of it down but thanks man that helps me out. how hard are ball joints?

not hard. i forget if i used a press of a really big hammer... i think i used a really big hammer!


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post May 1, 2010 - 3:03 PM
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zfjohnson07

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really you can hit it with a hammer? ?
post May 1, 2010 - 7:50 PM
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i remember my first time changing wheelbearings i used the flat end of a log and hit it with a small sledgehammer.. i was 17 laugh.gif . it took 2.5 hours to press in. but it's not good for your wheelbearings.


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post May 1, 2010 - 7:54 PM
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zfjohnson07

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so get it done by napa then? okay thank you for the info
post May 2, 2010 - 2:19 PM
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zfjohnson07

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okay is there an inner and outer bearing?
post May 2, 2010 - 9:09 PM
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no. just one bearing per wheel.


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post May 3, 2010 - 8:13 AM
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playr158



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you don't use a punch on a ball joint....use the correct tool.

pickle fork + hammer it takes 5 seconds
post May 3, 2010 - 5:14 PM
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zfjohnson07

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well i got it off today. now i have to get a new wheel hub, is it a good idea to buy it from a junk yard?
post May 3, 2010 - 7:51 PM
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azian_advanced



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depends if you're willing to use a part that is more prone to early failure for the sake of spending less.
if i were you i'd go with getting a part from the junkyard and spend less biggrin.gif. the 5th gens might work too since the wheelbearings are the same, but i'm not sure if the hubs are also the same.


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post May 3, 2010 - 9:00 PM
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playr158



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do it right....new from toyota
post May 4, 2010 - 9:26 AM
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zfjohnson07

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how exactly do i get the wheel hub out?
post May 4, 2010 - 9:40 AM
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has to go to a machine shop and be pressed out and the new bearings pressed in
post May 4, 2010 - 11:10 AM
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garin



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lets sum it up.

one bearing and two seals per wheel (inner and outer seal though)
use a press for the bearing
ball joints, use a pickle fork and a hammer
buy new not out of a junk yard


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post May 4, 2010 - 11:11 PM
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zfjohnson07

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alright i got it. when to junk yard and found it works great. surprisingly when i let off the acceleration i really cant explain how amazing it feels but it just feels so great!

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