Alt Trouble, wiring problem?, back from the dead, can anyone help? Options

[jcbass7]

READ UPDATE PAGE 4



Here is exactly what happened.

First, the work i did on my car today.
-changed oil
-added some more transmission fluid
-plugged the CC back in
-re wired three prosport gauges (wired them into the power and ground from the stereo)

Ok now here is the problem that occured.

First the RPM gague died. then i tried to roll the windows down and those didn't work
neither did the sunroof. then after driving about 10 miles the voltage got so low (i have a voltage gauge) that i pulled over. Slowly she went down lower and lower. then i tried to drive across the street into a parking lot to get off the road. The car was at about 9 volts. Once i stopped in the lot she started smoking. I immediatly shut her off (feering fire) and checked under the hood.
Coolant was spilling from the throttle body area, pinpointed it to the coolant line funning into the throttle body..

anywhoo any ideas?
I had a similiar problem three weeks ago, where the stock 3s alt died. I replaced it with a 5s alt and now this happened.

I have to get back to base by monday at 1830.. or 6:30 for you civilian folk


while i waited for the tow truck i got really cold so i popped the hood and sat on the top mount intercooler it kept my butt plenty warm

This post has been edited by jcbass7: May 28, 2007 - 2:00 PM

[jcbass7]

bump, i need to try to fix this today...

[presure2]

bump, i need to try to fix this today...

soudns like the ALT again, jesse.
there are 2 coolant lines that are attached to the TB, make sure the clamps are secure on them, or that one of the hoses hasnt cracked.

[jcbass7]

bump, i need to try to fix this today...

soudns like the ALT again, jesse.
there are 2 coolant lines that are attached to the TB, make sure the clamps are secure on them, or that one of the hoses hasnt cracked.

Yea.. I hope its not a bad short or anything though.. two alternators in a month..... I'm thinking my grounds needed to get some more attention. I don't have the battery grounded in the trunk and im thinking thats not helping much.

[jcbass7]

Ok update.

found that the resistance across the batt cables (with no batt) was close to a dead short..

then we tried all the fuses and once we pulled the dome fuse we got a lot of resistanc.

ideas? (ps: door was open so dome would be on, but the resistance was pretty high... and last night before it all died, the sunroof and windows wouldnt work.)

[Rayme]

Ok update.

found that the resistance across the batt cables (with no batt) was close to a dead short..

then we tried all the fuses and once we pulled the dome fuse we got a lot of resistanc.

ideas? (ps: door was open so dome would be on, but the resistance was pretty high... and last night before it all died, the sunroof and windows wouldnt work.)

Isn't it normal the resistance between the two battery cable is high? It would get drained overnight otherwise.

Its wierd because why would the rpm stop working, and wondows wouldnt come down? 9 volt is enough to roll down windows...I would recheck your custom wiring. In the meanwhile get someone to boost you to see if you get normal voltage from the other car's power?

[jcbass7]

it should be high between the two cables, but when i checked it it was very very low.. maybe 200 ohms? ish

the battery is being charged right now..

we think the error is in the DOME circuit because when i pulled that fuse the resistance went to about 1,100 ohms ishhhh

Is the radio etc. hooked up to the Dome circuit?

[presure2]

I don't have the battery grounded in the trunk and im thinking thats not helping much.

you need to have it grounded in the trunk.
most people dont run a ground from the bay to the trunk, just a short ground from the battery to a spot in the trunk.
i did both.

[jcbass7]

ok so with the battery charged, we tested the alternator with the car running and the alt is only putting out 11.34 volts

Dead alt??

we also tested the spot where the dome fuse goes. we got 11.34 on the power side and from the ground side it read .27 volts.. is that an issue?

[jcbass7]

is the alt on the ST the same as the GT?
(parts car )

[jcbass7]

nvm my parts alt is seized.. but anywho

I took the alternator off of my other celica. but before i took it on that celi and it put out about 14.5 ish

so i took the alt off of my red celi ^that one^ and then put it on the 3S and the 3s is still only putting out 11.3 ish from the alternator....

so i know this alt works... is my issue with grounding?

[Batman722]

I would say it's a good bet. Also check your main rewire (the burned one) and check the plug with the 3 wires. If the plug or the wires splices aren't making good contact then that could be your problem.

where do you have the battery grounded ?

[jcbass7]

Dustin,

batt is grounded to the stock location (my wire runs from trunk to the stock wires up front.. so block and chasis up front)


i took my voltmeter and disconnected the negative terminal and read the voltage from negative terminal to negative lead and I am getting 11.75 volts

which means i have a short right???

i did this and then pulled each fuse (none of the big ones, like the 30 or higher) and NONE of them got the voltage to come down. then i disconnected all my prosport gauges, CC, radio, clock and hazard thing and none of them were related.

When i warm up and go back out im going to disconnect the cluster since when i noticed this problem, it was when my RPM gauge died.


anyone have other ideas to find this short?

[jcbass7]

pulled the cluster for the hell of it, still have a short.. the reason i thought it might be related to this because when the rpm3 gauge died is when the voltage started dropping.

EDIT: where is the rpm read from... as in where is the "sender unit" or what not.

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Feb 18, 2007 - 1:53 PM

[alltracman78]

Are you stationed in Newport?
Or just from there?

The radio uses a separate circuit. Rad.

You did a battery relocation?

Did the battery light come on in the dash?

Two things about electrical.

1-voltage drop test >>>>>resistance/ohms test
here
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
and here for more explanation
http://www.google.com/search?client=firefo...G=Google+Search

If that doesn't clear it up for you. lemme know and I'll try to explain. I just didn't want to type a book right now. I'm also working on an English paper.

2-instead of checking resistance at the battery cables, try a parasitic draw test.
http://www.samsgarage.com/tsp_electricity_102.htm

You can use your ampmeter instead of a circuit tester [test light].
Set it to Milliamps. MA
You should have 50 or LESS milliamps. More is a problem. The more above, the more problem.

This post has been edited by alltracman78: Feb 18, 2007 - 2:44 PM

[jcbass7]

I'm from gloucester MA, thats where i am right now, but i go to school on the navy base down there.

anywho ill check those links out.

the issue i have right now is, the alt is undercharging the system. i only have about 11 volts coming from the alt, yet i know the alt is in perfect condition.

I am almost positive i have a short somewhere. but i pulled all the fuses and none of them were the short.

[alltracman78]

A short won't necessarily cause the alt to not charge.
I posted the links for the voltage drop test so you could test your grounds......

Where are you grounding your multimeter at when you check the alt?

[jcbass7]

A short won't necessarily cause the alt to not charge.
I posted the links for the voltage drop test so you could test your grounds......

Where are you grounding your multimeter at when you check the alt?

where are you in mass?

anwyho i read those articles, i definatly need to try those tests.

I ground it on the stock ground that goes from the alt bracket to the strut tower (i beefed up this ground a while back with an 8ga wire)

[jcbass7]

ok so according to the parasetic draw article the exact test i did to find a "short" is actually telling me i have parastic draw.. as in..

when i put a multi meter between the neg cable and neg post on the batt i get voltage.. therefore parasetic draw.. so i need to find this and fix it. but the problem i am running into is that i have checked all the fused items and with no luck. what should i unplug that is unfused?

ps; i have a chiltons and haynes if you know of any sections that tell me info i need to check lemme know'

[alltracman78]

Well, a parasitic draw isn't necessarily a short.
It can be a short in a wire, a short in a component, or simply a component that won't turn off.

You're actually not testing for voltage.
You're testing for amperes [amps/A].

Amps is the flow of electrons.

Put your multimeter on MA[milliamps].
If it's below 50 or so, you are fine. You do NOT have a parasitic draw.
If it's above, you do. Start pulling fuses one at a time until the reading drops. Give it a minute each time to settle.
If one doesn't, install it before you pull the next one.

Put your multimeter to V. The lowest setting you have.
Put your POSITIVE lead on a GOOD chassis ground.
Put the negative lead on the negative post of the battery.

It should read .1V or less.
If not, your battery ground[s] are bad.

[jcbass7]

ok when i take of the negative terminal and test between that and the negative post on the battery i get

511 milliamps when the digi meter is set to 2000MA setting..

what now?

[Batman722]

hey just a word...Jesse make sure all 3 wires in the 3 wire plug (on the alt) are connected. If they are not, then once the batt dies you will have no power (I tested it with the ST when I got you the plug)

[jcbass7]

alltrac:

I retested the parasetic draw test and it now reads 21.. when i close the hatch. It was reading 512 because i had the hatch open causing the door lights to go on.

so no parasetic draw.....


i still have 11.7 volts going TO the negative terminal...

[Vissi]

so the alternator is good, but your still not getting power?
Is the voltage regulator on our cars on the alternator?
if its not maybe thats the problem

[alltracman78]

Why are you so sure your alt is working fine?
V reg is part of the alt.

hey just a word...Jesse make sure all 3 wires in the 3 wire plug (on the alt) are connected. If they are not, then once the batt dies you will have no power (I tested it with the ST when I got you the plug)

Correct.
The alt gets is power to make more power through this connection.
Since you are making 12V, probably not it, but won't hurt to check.

[jcbass7]

I own two celicas and i took the working alt from my other one and put it into this one. therefore i beleive the alt is fine


tried the volt drop for pos and neg at the alt and here is what i got

pos- 1.5ish
neg- 1.1

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Feb 18, 2007 - 5:44 PM

[alltracman78]

As in 1.5 and 1.1 volts?
Bad connections.
Where did you connect the multimeter to?

[jcbass7]

we did the pos terminal and then the B post on the alt

and then

neg terminal and the Ground wire at the Alt bracket


oooops my bad i meant to say

.15ish and .11

[jcbass7]

can i make a 100 mile drive on three batteries? lol.... thats about where im at now.. if i charge three and go during the day with no acc running (no radio etc etc.. ) will three batteries get me that far?


one red-top and two run of the mill car batts..

[alltracman78]

Well, it sounds like your alt is weak man...
What did it put out in the other car?
I take it the connection on the alt is good?

From Gloucester to Newport?
Probably.
You can also stop and get one or two charged if need be.....
Run the redtop last, because draining it will probably junk it.

Beats being UA....

[jcbass7]

Well, it sounds like your alt is weak man...
What did it put out in the other car?
I take it the connection on the alt is good?

From Gloucester to Newport?
Probably.
You can also stop and get one or two charged if need be.....
Run the redtop last, because draining it will probably junk it.

Beats being UA....

It put out 14.5 when it was on the other celi


DEFINATLY beats being UA...



I'm gonna try it, I'll let you guys know if i make it

[x_itchy_b_x]

id check the charge wires that go to the alternator. I've had the same thing happen to me before where my car just died because it didn't have any power to even keep itself running. but my alt was fine it was the wires that connect onto the stud, they actually burned up on the inside of the insulator and were so brittle they cracked in half! but only the wire on the inside, the insulator looked fine so you couldn't tell the wires we only charging spontaneously when ever they were in the right position to make contact. haha i hope you find your problem man!

[jcbass7]

ok so i just made my attempt... failed

i got about ten miles down the highway and the voltage on the first battery slowly went down, and when it hit about 11.. it plumitted.. i barely made it to the next exit before the car died and i rolled into a lot.

so i strapped on batt two, turned around and came home


Itchy,

with the car running are there any voltage tests or anything i can do to test if the wires going to the alt are working properly?

[x_itchy_b_x]

you could check how much power is coming off of the charge stud. then check how much power is coming out from the wire that goes to the charge stud but only like 6 inches back from the stud, wiggle things around, if theres still power in the wire go father back up the wire and trace out were the power is going or if the wire is damaged. Im sure theres more professional ways that i'm not familiar with though

you just need to find out were your charge is going, trace wires and check connections and grounds.

[alltracman78]

That's what the voltage drop test I had you do does.
Check from the stud to the other end of the wire [battery pos terminal].
.15V means the wire is in good condition. Assuming it was done correctly of course [no dig at you man, it's hard to tell online what someone is doing at their house.. ].


That battery should have lasted longer than 10 min. You probably have a weak or bad battery. Or something in the car is draining it.
Most batteries have a 1hr reserve time. Basically meaning they will run your car for roughly 1 hour with all accessories off. The redtop should last longer of course.

[jcbass7]

That's what the voltage drop test I had you do does.
Check from the stud to the other end of the wire [battery pos terminal].
.15V means the wire is in good condition. Assuming it was done correctly of course [no dig at you man, it's hard to tell online what someone is doing at their house.. ].


That battery should have lasted longer than 10 min. You probably have a weak or bad battery. Or something in the car is draining it.
Most batteries have a 1hr reserve time. Basically meaning they will run your car for roughly 1 hour with all accessories off. The redtop should last longer of course.

I didn't want to risk having the car get stranded.. but once i upgrade my AAA to the 100 mile tow limit then ill take a stab at it and get towed the rest of the way if i need it

Anywho, I made it back to base, took the train to boston and had a friend drive me back from there.
The car is back home along with my HID's that came in seconds after i left....

once i get home again I can try to fix the problem.... I'm getting sick of one issue after another..I just want the car to run reliable so i can spend my time improving it instead of repairing it..

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Feb 20, 2007 - 1:05 PM

[jcbass7]

bump.. still need to figure this out

I'm getting 11.4 volts at the alternator post. This is with a good battery and a GOOD alternator.
Ideas?

PS: this is basically an electrical thread now so if the mods want to move it i won't complain

[jcbass7]

bump

what should the three wires in the plug going to the alternator be putting out when the car is under load? I understand one should have power correct? not sure about the others.. I think the problem is there somewhere

[jcbass7]

bump..

no one has any idea why a GOOD WORKING alt would be putting out 11.4 volts instead of 14.25ish?

[Batman722]

check the main wire you soldered. Dig deeper in the harness and check the voltage before the splice.

[jcbass7]

the main wire appeared fine.. ill check it again.. when im home

how about the three wires in the plug though? im sure when the car is running each one of those should be doing a certain thing.. i need to check those but dont know what to check for..

[jcbass7]

BUMP.. i got a ride back home to work on the car.. gonna try to finish it today..

here is what ive got

the three wires plugging into the alternator are as follows

-yellow
-white
-black/red


the yellow and white are putting out 11.4 volts when the car is running and the black/red 0.09 volts.

The alt when tested from Bpost to ground is putting out 11.4


IDEAS?


EDIT:

checked the two thick white wires going to the alt and one of them was a little loose in its connection, but fixed it and still nothing.

the two white wires about 6 inches back in the harness (when disconnected from the alt) are putting out 12.4 which is what im getting on the battery right now. (with car off)

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 10:45 AM

[jcbass7]

UPDATE:

IT IS DEFINATLY A SHORT...

I have a short somewhere going from positve to negative... dead short.

I checked the wires going to the trunk for the battery and those are fine (my first suspects)


so when this problem first popped up, or when the short did its damage etc.... the window switches went, the sunroof went and the gauge cluster went.

How should i go about finding the short? I'm going to test continuity while i pull each fuse and see what happens.


PS:

The only blown fuse was the PANEL fuse on the interior fuse box.

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 2:08 PM

[Batman722]

the "panel" is the gauge cluster...

[lagos]

i didint read the whole thread, so bare with me...

take off your battery and your alt and have them tested at a local parts store. they do this for free.

if everything checks out, inspect the harness plug that connects to the alternator. i had a similar problem to yours. i thought it was my alt/battery but it turned out that while doing an oil change, i bumped the harness plug and one of the wires got frayed. i had to take apart the plug, and solder new wires directly to the pins inside to repair it (dont worry, its easy). after that everything was perfect

the symptoms were very similar. i would only get about 11v from the battery and 12v (at most) when running at idle.

[jcbass7]

i didint read the whole thread, so bare with me...

take off your battery and your alt and have them tested at a local parts store. they do this for free.

if everything checks out, inspect the harness plug that connects to the alternator. i had a similar problem to yours. i thought it was my alt/battery but it turned out that while doing an oil change, i bumped the harness plug and one of the wires got frayed. i had to take apart the plug, and solder new wires directly to the pins inside to repair it (dont worry, its easy). after that everything was perfect

the symptoms were very similar. i would only get about 11v from the battery and 12v (at most) when running at idle.

Alt and Battery are both tested and good.

I inspected the plug you mentioned and it checks out.
I'm getting a short somewhere though.. and I beleive that this is causing it to no work...

I have no clue how to even find the short... I hoooked up my multi meter and watched as i unplugged every fuse, relay etc... and the only one that altered the ohm reading any was the DOME fuse.. and it only affected the reading a little.. not enough to be the issue.


Any ideas on how to track down this short?

i didint read the whole thread, so bare with me...

take off your battery and your alt and have them tested at a local parts store. they do this for free.

if everything checks out, inspect the harness plug that connects to the alternator. i had a similar problem to yours. i thought it was my alt/battery but it turned out that while doing an oil change, i bumped the harness plug and one of the wires got frayed. i had to take apart the plug, and solder new wires directly to the pins inside to repair it (dont worry, its easy). after that everything was perfect

the symptoms were very similar. i would only get about 11v from the battery and 12v (at most) when running at idle.

read that again^ This problem happened after i changed my oil as well! I'm going to go inspect the plug itself much more closely and make sure its all kosher

[lagos]

take the plug apart. if you look at the female end facing you .... there is a white retainer that locks the pins in place. pull that totally out with some pliers. then youll see that each pin is held in place with a hook . lift it up with a small screw driver and pull the wire and pin out from the back. do one at a time and resolder anything that doesnt look right.

[jcbass7]

ok the plug is fine..

I made a little progress!

The short is somewhere in the 100A circuit. < it was the only fuse i couldn't remove.... so i finally unbolted the two large leads going to it. so its in that circuit somewhere.

Its after the 100A fuse and before:

-noise filter 1
-40A HTR
-Engine Main Relay
-15A stop
-40A AM1
-50A ABS
-30A Power
-30A Door
-Generator (Alternator) <three plug that goes into alt
-Integration Relay
-30A DEF
-15A Tail
-7.5A Panel

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 6:06 PM

[jcbass7]

So basically the short is in the wiring between the 100A fuse and the next line of fuses and relays..

Where is the Tailight Relay located?

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 6:41 PM

[lagos]

you said you relocated the battery to the trunk, right? how do you have your ground lines hooked up for that?

[jcbass7]

yes, and i tested the wires and they are all good

[jcbass7]

Could this be a faulty ignition switch? since the ignition switch goes to the alt as well... and my windows and moonroof don't work while the car is running..? as well as my cluster.

Is there a way to test my ignition switch?

[lagos]

where and how did you hook up your battery grounds?

what EXACTLY happens when you turn the key?

[jcbass7]

I have a 4gauge wire going from my battery to the engine bay where it is bolted onto the stock grounds where the battery used to be. I also upgraded these grounds to a heavier gauge.


When i turn the key, the car starts as normal, but my speedo and rpm don't work and my windows and moonroof won't work.


The reason im looking at my ignition is because all of my problems are somewhat tied into that system. The AM2 circuit.

first issue... speedo stopped working
second issue.. threw a celi code for speed sensor
third issue... windows stopped working/alt stopped charging correct/rpm gauge died

[lagos]

if the car starts, then the problem is not in your ignition.

speedo and windows not working means that you have just enough current to start the car, but not enough to operate stuff like your windows.

i know you said you had the battery tested, but how old is it?

[jcbass7]

6 months. Optima red top and i have tried two other batteries in my tests so far

Art,

do you know what voltage i should be getting on the three wires going into the alt? I get about 11 on the yellow and white and .09 on the blue/red stripe

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 10:47 PM

[lagos]

no im not sure of the voltage of those. i know one of them provides a reference voltage for the regulator to use. your using the 3sgte alt, right?

so, when you relocated the battery, you ran a ground wire from the trunk, all the way to the engine bay, then did a Y, hooked up one end to the tranny and one to the body of the car?

[jcbass7]

no im not sure of the voltage of those. i know one of them provides a reference voltage for the regulator to use. your using the 3sgte alt, right?

so, when you relocated the battery, you ran a ground wire from the trunk, all the way to the engine bay, then did a Y, hooked up one end to the tranny and one to the body of the car?

Dustin is checking those voltages on his Gt right now so we will know that in a second

I am using a 5sfe alt now.. my 3s alt died a few weeks back and caught fire.... anywho i spliced the plug to make it work. (don't worry those were the first places i checked when i had these problems)


Yes, I have a 4GA wire going from the trunk to the engine bay. It is bolted to where the old negative terminal was. So it grounds to chasis, block and tranny

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 3, 2007 - 10:57 PM

[lagos]

here is something you can try. test your voltage right at the battery with the car off. you should get 12v. now test it again, this time touch the 2 battery terminals, you should still get 12v. now go to the front of the car, and test the voltage again. you can use the alt power line for the positive and touch the multimeteres negative to each one of the ground bolts you hooked your cables to. if you get less then 12v... then you know there is a bad ground or issue with the battery relocation.

[lagos]

am using a 5sfe alt now.. my 3s alt died a few weeks back and caught fire.... anywho i spliced the plug to make it work. (don't worry those were the first places i checked when i had these problems)

when you put the new plug on.... did you compare the little pinout diagram sticker on the 5s alt to the 3s one? i remember that when i soldered my 5s plug on, the pinout locations were not in the same place as the 3s plug had and i had to change the order of the wires around.

[jcbass7]

here is something you can try. test your voltage right at the battery with the car off. you should get 12v. now test it again, this time touch the 2 battery terminals, you should still get 12v. now go to the front of the car, and test the voltage again. you can use the alt power line for the positive and touch the multimeteres negative to each one of the ground bolts you hooked your cables to. if you get less then 12v... then you know there is a bad ground or issue with the battery relocation.

Will do, first thing tomorrow, thanks Art

when you put the new plug on.... did you compare the little pinout diagram sticker on the 5s alt to the 3s one? i remember that when i soldered my 5s plug on, the pinout locations were not in the same place as the 3s plug had and i had to change the order of the wires around.

I spliced wires together and didn't touch the pinss... the 3s harness had a white, yellow and a grey with red stripe
the 5s had a white a yellow and a blue with red stripe

so i did this

yellow-yellow
grey/red-blue/red
white-white

[Batman722]

ok Jesse, here it is.

I tested my ST and these are the results.

I started it up and

battery -> 15v
big wire on alternator ->15v

I unplugged the 3 wire plug and measured the volts at the 3 wires... each had 12v-13v comming from them. There's your problem.

If you read every post i've made I've said the same thing over and over, either the main wire or the 3 wire plug. First thing tomorrow is to check the main wire you soldered to make sure it's making a good enough connection to your alternator. I don't think it is. Check the voltage before and after the splice/solder for consistancy.

[jcbass7]

It is making fine contact ive done it over a couple times.. and that itself wouldn't explain all the other problems... would it?

It gets perfect continuity when i check that main wire before and after the splice and even when i check it further back in the harness.


I agree that its the three wire plug, i have thought that all along, what i have been trying to find is WHY isn't that third one getting what its supposed to and until now i didn't even know what it was supposed to be getting

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Mar 4, 2007 - 9:04 AM

[jcbass7]

ok so on my GT i checked the three wires for continuity to ground

one was 0.00
blue/red was 0.00
and the other was 20ish ohms

then i checked my black gt 3s

one was infinity
blue/red was 0.00
and the thir was 20ish.

[Batman722]

what about volts on the GT ?

start the GT, unplug the 3 wire plug, check the voltage.

[jcbass7]

what about volts on the GT ?

start the GT, unplug the 3 wire plug, check the voltage.

When i get a chance...... its only 95 miles away..

[jcbass7]

ok so here is where i stand!

Let me outline the problem as clearly as possible and we will start this again and begin the work now that im home!


The alternator is not charging the battery enough and eventually the battery just dies.
The alt is good and the battery is good
So i checked the three wires going into the alt on the plug. when running they are supposed to all put out 12-13 volts.

the problem is...
one of the three wires is not putting out any voltage at all.

the white and yellow wires are putting out 12 and the grey with red stripe is not putting out any.
on the 5s the grey/red is a blue wire with a red stripe.
my car is has a 3s in it.


any ideas? ive traced the wire as far back as i can without removing engine parts..

i guess what i need to know is... where does the grey/red wire go to?? so i can check for voltage further down the line?



PS: mods feel free to move this thread.. it really isn't the right section anymore now that its mainly 3s/wiring issues

This post has been edited by jcbass7: May 28, 2007 - 2:06 PM

[jcbass7]

ok, so via wiring diagram the alt wire that is dead goes all the way into the ignition.

I tested the wire at the ignition and it is putting out 12 volts. which means... the wire is broken or messed up between there and the alternator.



This post has been edited by jcbass7: May 28, 2007 - 2:24 PM

[jcbass7]

HAHA I'M PATHETIC!

so yea... it was the 10amp fuse "gauge"

hence the reason my windows wouldn't work and my guage cluster... etc....

all i can say is wow...

lol you all have my permission to laugh at me anytime you feel the need!

i guess in the end im glad it was that simple. haha

[Culpable04]

congrats,

all problems are simple once they are resolve. you accomplished this, meaning you're learning a lot from your car; Now sit down and remember where you started and where you are now with your car.