Finishing up 2slow2nervous's 3SGTE Swap, What a nightmare! Options

[Dr_Tweak]

Stock exhaust we're replacing...





AngryMike fitting up the new stainless steel custom 3" mandrel bent tig-welded exhaust....



















Custom tig-welded aluminum intercooler piping with welded-in flange for the Blitz BOV...





Working my magic with what that shop left of his wiring harness....





More to come soon!!!

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 19, 2007 - 4:09 PM

[WannabeGT4]

Wow. That wiring is a mess. Why in the world did they hack up the fuse box wiring?

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Mar 19, 2007 - 4:44 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Wow. That wiring is a mess. Why in the world did they hack up the fuse box wiring?

Because they're stupid?

[presure2]

welds look good!
harness looks like FUNNNN!!! ....umm, not.
lol

[Punch]

once again good job!!!

[brianforster]

no clocked turbo? tweaks gettin lazy!!!!

This post has been edited by brianforster: Mar 19, 2007 - 7:12 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Oh don't you worry, the clocked turbo is coming. Not only that, wait until you see what we do with this intercooler piping

-Doc

[toyotacrazy]

The piping looks great. Good luck with the harness, Though I doubt you'll need it.
Keep us updated! later

[angrymike]

hey guys, angrymike here. first time on this board.

i've been welding and building for about 5 years now. i'm having a great time working with tweak. i've built stuff for toyotas in the past, but i would say i'm a little bit of a noob when it comes to toyota specifics. i specialize in saturns, however i've been turboing all kinds for things for the last couple years.

hopefully tweak will show me the ropes so we can offer more specific toyota toys.

if you guys have any questions on welding, fabrication, turbos or fuel stuff i can probably lend a hand.

This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 19, 2007 - 11:03 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Actually I just remembered, there's already another forum member on here who has already had their car worked on by angrymike.... Fastbird!

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 20, 2007 - 8:12 AM

[Negative]

Welds look great. I welded for 3 years in college and I never got very good at tig because the place I worked for mainly speced mig welding. Just a thought: What makes Tig welding preferable in these applications?

[2slow2nervous]

wow doc very nice work so far on my car!!! its looking great i cant wait to get the final product. Nice work! Every1 was rite doc u r the man! lol

[x_itchy_b_x]

AngryMike those welds look very nice
I'd like to try tig welding, im only familiar with brazing and mig.
The intercooling piping is nice to!

DrTweek that wiring was a hack job! awesome that you can decipher all those wires.
I guess thats why your a doctor

[easternpiro1]

im so happy for you 2slow! now youre going to have to change that screen name!

DOC good job!! will be seeing you soon!


by the way...2slow! you HAVE to go through NC on the way back! hit me up eh?

[2slow2nervous]

if i decide to drive her back which i really want to do will do.... Think it might be better just to get the car home safely and brake her in around the area just incase anything happens u kno...
Doc is doing a great job and doing everything he can to work within my price range. Hes a great person to get work done by!

[Negative]

A long trip with a few stops for cool down is the best way to break in a new motor.

[2slow2nervous]

i would have about a 12 hour drive... so how many stops would be rite??? i cant wait to see the rest of the fmic pipping thats coming out really good. I called and they said it got finished today so im waitn to see them pics!

[lagos]

why was it a nightmare?

[Dr_Tweak]

Ask 2slow2nervous

[Dr_Tweak]

Doc is doing a great job and doing everything he can to work within my price range. Hes a great person to get work done by!

Actually, I don't know if you know it or not, but you got really lucky. We are doing a lot of extra work on your car for free, especially AngryMike, because he wanted to do some cool stuff on a Celica and get his work out there a little bit. When you see the finished pics tomorrow you'll see what I mean

-Doc

[99GT]

I want free things done to my car as well. I hate that the celica is piss slow. Damn full time school AND work.

I will coming to you as well.

[angrymike]

Welds look great. I welded for 3 years in college and I never got very good at tig because the place I worked for mainly speced mig welding. Just a thought: What makes Tig welding preferable in these applications?

cosmetics, control and thinner materials make tig the best option. you get a much cleaner weld. you can weld stainless and aluminum with mig, however there is a lot of setup involved and the quality is pretty crappy in comparison. tig is a lot easyer and it looks great.

This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 20, 2007 - 9:23 PM

[2slow2nervous]

wow! thanks alot!!! u and ur whole team are awesome im happy i was told to go u guys!!!! cant wait to see them pics i appreciate this work alot doc!

[Coomer]

Great work! That harness work doesn't look like much fun...that's pretty mangled.

[InfamousChappy]

Y'all should do fab up some stainless manifolds for the 3sgte.

[zipstrips]

thoes welds are sexy! how thick is that IC piping you TIG'd? id have access to a TIG but was unsure how thin of a pipe i could get... i know the ones ive seen are too thin for my current skill.. id deff blow through a few before i got the hang of it!

[Punisher]

and ten grand later.....

[gt_driFFter]

A long trip with a few stops for cool down is the best way to break in a new motor.

That is completely wrong.

The first 500 miles of break-in on a new or rebuilt engine should NOT be at continuous high speeds. Instead, Occasional, quick bursts of acceleration, followed by quick bursts of deceleration is best for the first 500 miles of break-in.

Although, I'm not even sure why you brought up breaking in a new motor, isn't his engine used?

This post has been edited by gt_driFFter: Mar 21, 2007 - 9:13 PM

[playr158]

when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image

[Bitter]

its the first 100 miles that matter the most, thats the rings seating against the piston walls and knocking the hone off. dont boost during that, dont lug the engine, dont rev it up and down really fast. drive it gently and roll in and roll out of the throttle.

[MrBill]

when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image

funny that I've never read that before.
People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers.
Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way?
Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well.

So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations.
So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures.

[DeW_H0e_GT]

wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?....

[snapshotgt]

wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?....

hey guys, angrymike here. first time on this board.

i've been welding and building for about 5 years now. i'm having a great time working with tweak. i've built stuff for toyotas in the past, but i would say i'm a little bit of a noob when it comes to toyota specifics. i specialize in saturns, however i've been turboing all kinds for things for the last couple years.

hopefully tweak will show me the ropes so we can offer more specific toyota toys.

if you guys have any questions on welding, fabrication, turbos or fuel stuff i can probably lend a hand.

This post has been edited by snapshotgt: Mar 22, 2007 - 12:11 AM

[gt_driFFter]

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

Oh you mean like companies that solely rebuild all different types of engines? Like the one that directly quotes :

Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.

Yeah, I thought so.

[Batman722]

when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image

funny that I've never read that before.
People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers.
Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way?
Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well.

So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations.
So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures.

[tim86]

hahaha thats funny... owned... good work tweak, awesome to see these great projects, hopefully ill make it up in a couple years or so

[alltracman78]

[2slow2nervous]

thanks for the info on breaking in the motor guys..... I keep hearing all diff things tho not one person has really agreed with each other so im just gonna see what tweak says to do... after all he is doing my motor and should kno the best. Waiting on him to post more pics should deff be up today!!! cant wait. And this project is not costing me about 10k believe it or not hes very well priced... U go into it with 5 a lil more u will have amazing work by tweak.

[x_itchy_b_x]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
ill give you guys a few quotes.

What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???

This is a good question ...

Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!

Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!

The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

this all about seating piston rings properly, but i figured id share. he has alot of good info on that site.
also congrats on the swap man!

This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Mar 22, 2007 - 9:37 AM

[Dr_Tweak]

Just so there's no mistake, "breaking in" an engine is only for new and rebuilt engines. After a swap (with a used engine, like this), no break-in period is required. I personally recommend a "take-it-easy" period for the first few weeks while you're getting to know the engine in your car and make sure everything is all set.

-Doc

[Negative]

So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

[lagos]

i would follow the same rules toyota tell you when you buy a brand new car. drive normally ,but not too hard. do mostly city driving and no highway for the first 500-1000miles. youll probably also have a brand new clutch in there to break in.

[2slow2nervous]

thank u than it looks like ill just get my car towed from doc tweak to nj... and slowly work hear in around the home town..... I do have a new clutch so that needs to be broken in properly also.

[Dr_Tweak]

So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

[Negative]

i would follow the same rules toyota tell you when you buy a brand new car. drive normally ,but not too hard. do mostly city driving and no highway for the first 500-1000miles. youll probably also have a brand new clutch in there to break in.

They are the ones who told me to Highway drive it for best results.

Thanks Tweak.

2slow - bet your excited.

[2slow2nervous]

yea dude im really excited just waiting to see the work is driving me nutts lol... let alone drive it that will hit me when they say shes running! OOO wow i cant wait lol.

[gt_driFFter]

That is completely wrong.

The first 500 miles of break-in on a new or rebuilt engine should NOT be at continuous high speeds. Instead, Occasional, quick bursts of acceleration, followed by quick bursts of deceleration is best for the first 500 miles of break-in.

Although, I'm not even sure why you brought up breaking in a new motor, isn't his engine used?

Just so there's no mistake, "breaking in" an engine is only for new and rebuilt engines. After a swap (with a used engine, like this), no break-in period is required. I personally recommend a "take-it-easy" period for the first few weeks while you're getting to know the engine in your car and make sure everything is all set.

-Doc

[easternpiro1]

So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

mine overheated on the way back and i also had to get antoher starter that weekend but other than that it was fine you shouldnt have a prob

[Dr_Tweak]

So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

mine overheated on the way back and i also had to get antoher starter that weekend but other than that it was fine you shouldnt have a prob

When I said "never had a problem" I was referring to the subject at hand, which was breaking in the engine. There have been a couple of instances of intercooler couplers popping off or whatever, hiccups that tend to manifest themselves after a few days of driving the car.

-Doc

[angrymike]

lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

this is one of my saturn projects.

[2slow2nervous]

how thats sick lol... did u make all that urself?

[lagos]

amazing work. however, if you post that pic next to the saturn its going into, then it wont look as good.

prio .. overheating seems to be common for guys who are still using the stock bumper and hood and have a fmic in place. id look into getting a bigger radiator or maybe a different front bumper. kind of makes you realize why toyota redesigned the gt4 hood/bumper. im still on my stock radiator and never had any cooling issues.

This post has been edited by lagos: Mar 24, 2007 - 12:26 AM

[Punisher]

lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

this is one of my saturn projects.

I'll say nice welds.. other than that.. it's a nice piece to hang on the wall.

[angrymike]

i've been building manifolds for about 4 years now. you guys are a little quick to judge.

i was rolling 340whp on my daily driven saturn for about 2 years.

not sure if i can post up a link, but heres my site:

www.alphatuning.com

any time you add a fmic on a car that isn't designed for it, your going to have heat issues. best thing to do is to get some beefy puller fans and possibly a new radiator.

the size of the intercooler going on this car isn't going to block the whole radiator. i wouldn't think there will be an issue at all.

This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 24, 2007 - 9:36 AM

[toyotacrazy]

i've been building manifolds for about 4 years now. you guys are a little quick to judge.

i was rolling 340whp on my daily driven saturn for about 2 years.

not sure if i can post up a link, but heres my site:

www.alphatuning.com

any time you add a fmic on a car that isn't designed for it, your going to have heat issues. best thing to do is to get some beefy puller fans and possibly a new radiator.

the size of the intercooler going on this car isn't going to block the whole radiator. i wouldn't think there will be an issue at all.

Ive got a fmic on a car that wasnt designed for a turbo or a fmic and I have no overheating issues

[2slow2nervous]

i just checked that link crazy mike.... thats ****s nutts... i see u do kno how make saturns badass!! did u really beat that supra if u did mad props bro... i want my celica to beat them!

[WH95TE]

I demand more pics Oh, and I might be moving to Savannah to go to school!!!

[brianforster]

im on stock hood and bumper and never overheated, however in the rain the rain steams off the top of my car.

[alltracman78]

Whether or not the car has AC will effect it as well...

As for breaking in engines [yes I realize his doesn't need to be], I subscribe to this method.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Everyone has their own preferred method.
Even amougnst good techs.
That is just my personal preference.....

[toyotacrazy]

I know this is your opinion and you are entitled to that. But I disagree with most of that method. They dont say anything about the bearings. Just rings!
Heres what Ive always done with brand new engines or overhauled engines:
If you are getting a japan engine it doesnt matter, its already broken in.
I always vary my speed and press on and off the gas constantly. Never go over 1/2 of redline until after 500 miles. Then progress slowly up to redline. At 500 miles I change the oil and filter. Ive never had any problems. Just my opinion. As I said everyone is entitled to that. Later all!
-toyotacrazy

[alltracman78]

Your bearings don't "break in"
There isn't supposed to be ANY contact between bearings and journals.
The journal rides on a film of oil.

[toyotacrazy]

Your bearings don't "break in"
There isn't supposed to be ANY contact between bearings and journals.
The journal rides on a film of oil.

They have to seat in place. Find their groove. Just because you cant see it doesnt mean they arent making minimal contact.

This post has been edited by toyotacrazy: Mar 24, 2007 - 11:22 PM

[celicast3sgte]

no really. they DONT contact, the only time they should have metal on metal is after a long sitting period. even then its not much.

[alltracman78]

Exactly.

You can't see it regardless.

But they aren't supposed to have ANY contact.

If they aren't FULLY seated in place, whoever assembled the engine didn't do it right....

[Dr_Tweak]

lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

I had to read his post twice before I got it, but I'm quite sure that snapshotgt was ragging on DeW_H0e_GT for asking if you work on anything "besides celicas" after you specifically said that you specialize in Saturns.

But, maybe I'm wrong, though most of the Celica community is pretty good about not hating on other cars... this isn't SRTForums, after all.

-Doc

[brianforster]

i had to read it twice too but i came to the same conclusion as tweak

that being said, that manifold is magnificent.

[snapshotgt]

lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

I had to read his post twice before I got it, but I'm quite sure that snapshotgt was ragging on DeW_H0e_GT for asking if you work on anything "besides celicas" after you specifically said that you specialize in Saturns.

Correct.

[angrymike]

reading comprehension > mike

i wouldn't say i beat the supra, but i stayed ahead. it was pretty even from 30~100mph, but above that he would start to creep pretty good on me. that was about 3 years ago in milwaukee on hwy 100 (case any of you are from around there).

that supra was running 13psi making around 550whp during that race. he later turned it up. he was making about 850whp before he put the ass-end of the car into a bridge while driving 70mph in the rain.

crappy way to loose such a sweet car.

This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 25, 2007 - 2:35 PM

[2slow2nervous]

yea that does suck.... Is he gonna build another one?

[angrymike]

yea that does suck.... Is he gonna build another one?

as far as i know, no. he had about 50k into that one. who knows though.

[2slow2nervous]

angry mike how do u like working on the celica??? Would it be hard to make a custom turbo manifold for that with ur crazy welding skills???

This post has been edited by 2slow2nervous: Mar 28, 2007 - 10:58 AM

[Negative]

Uh oh. I smell upgrades.

[Punisher]

man making a custom manifold.. sounds like a nightmare to me!

[Dr_Tweak]

You mean like one of these?

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_i...04a758c597cf9d0

We could do that for $900 (introductory price).

-Doc

[Punisher]

You mean like one of these?

http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_i...04a758c597cf9d0

We could do that for $900 (introductory price).

-Doc

If it ends up looking anything like that saturn manifold i'm sure art museums would buy them.

[playr158]

rofl

the manifold is meh...longer runners = ftl they act as radiators

[Negative]

Why are you always hatin? The guys trying to help us out.

This post has been edited by Negative: Mar 28, 2007 - 4:22 PM

[playr158]

its not hating.....its FACT

tubular manifolds don't last that long and crack frequently
the longer the runner the more it acts as a radiator releasing heat...
why is that bad?
because thats energy that could go into spooling the turbo and being more efficient. why do you think most 3sgte owners and companies use the stock manifold up till like 400hp? cause its well built and designed...

[Punisher]

its not hating... I charge far less to do work for people and produce better end results... its fact. that saturn manifold is weaksauce.. have fun copyingsomeone elses design for a manifold.. that is also weaksauce... some people are here to strictly make a buck... I do affordable quality work bc im an enthusiast.. like most of us here are.

[x_itchy_b_x]

its not hating... I charge far less to do work for people and produce better end results... its fact. that saturn manifold is weaksauce.. have fun copyingsomeone elses design for a manifold.. that is also weaksauce... some people are here to strictly make a buck... I do affordable quality work bc im an enthusiast.. like most of us here are.

that saturn manifold is FAR from weaksauce. its a piece of art man, the amount of work that went into that is astounding. cutting the radius bends, and fitting it to a jig, all the tight welds that look very nice. and there are only so many ways to make a manifold, how is that copying lol. a ramhorn manifold is a ramhorn manifold.
thats a decent price for a nice manifold, hell FullRace want $1200 for there ramhorn manifold.

This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Mar 28, 2007 - 8:32 PM

[Dr_Tweak]

Installing the intercooler...







We cut the endtanks off and modified the intercooler to flow in and out on the same end...





Fixing the wiring chaos...











More has been done but I didn't get a chance to get the camera out today... I'll have some more pics on Friday most likely.

-Doc

[6th_celi_vert]

its not hating... I charge far less to do work for people and produce better end results... its fact. that saturn manifold is weaksauce.. have fun copyingsomeone elses design for a manifold.. that is also weaksauce... some people are here to strictly make a buck... I do affordable quality work bc im an enthusiast.. like most of us here are.

I would really like to see you make one as amazing as that.

[WannabeGT4]

Tweak, about the wiring. Did you extend it to wrap around the manifold and does the diagnostic port always end up dangling by where it enters the cabin or is that all left over from the previous wiring attempt?

[Dr_Tweak]

Tweak, about the wiring. Did you extend it to wrap around the manifold and does the diagnostic port always end up dangling by where it enters the cabin or is that all left over from the previous wiring attempt?

It is extended to wrap around the manifold, and that is where I install the diagnostic port... it's only dangling right now because I haven't buttoned it all up yet.

-Doc

[WannabeGT4]

Tweak, about the wiring. Did you extend it to wrap around the manifold and does the diagnostic port always end up dangling by where it enters the cabin or is that all left over from the previous wiring attempt?

It is extended to wrap around the manifold, and that is where I install the diagnostic port... it's only dangling right now because I haven't buttoned it all up yet.

-Doc

I thought you routed the harness between the manifold and head like a stock harness? Any reason you stopped doing it that way? That's the way I did mine and it seemed like it was easier than extending all the wires plus it looks just like Toyota did it.

[playr158]

its not hating... I charge far less to do work for people and produce better end results... its fact. that saturn manifold is weaksauce.. have fun copyingsomeone elses design for a manifold.. that is also weaksauce... some people are here to strictly make a buck... I do affordable quality work bc im an enthusiast.. like most of us here are.

I would really like to see you make one as amazing as that.

there is a new one out for the 3sgte but its not 100% sure on production

company called Neukin...cheaper than $900 lifetime warrenty...
and the claimed detail "The manifold was the best manifold we could make within reason for the Mr2. I even took the time to get runners close to equal length and the runner entry into the collector was set so the fire order of 1342 would fire exhaust into the collector in a spiral one right after the other to increase spool up etc"
here is the Mr2oc thread to follow or see the discussion
http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=2368...age=1&pp=30
more importantly should pay attention to what Bill Strong says in that thread

*but we should stop thread jacking and create a new one....or get over it*

This post has been edited by playr158: Mar 28, 2007 - 9:49 PM

[Punisher]

Um.. I said that the saturn manifold is a piece of artwork.. Not worth more than good looks.

I don't make exhaust manifolds..

[Dr_Tweak]

Um.. I said that the saturn manifold is a piece of artwork.. Not worth more than good looks.

I don't make exhaust manifolds..

A few posts ago, during a discussion about the manifolds, you claimed that you can do much better work with much better results for much cheaper. Since you now say that you don't make exhaust manifolds, I guess we're all a little confused.

I thought you routed the harness between the manifold and head like a stock harness? Any reason you stopped doing it that way? That's the way I did mine and it seemed like it was easier than extending all the wires plus it looks just like Toyota did it.

That is the way I was doing them for a while, but I discovered when doing a swap in a 5th gen that the JDM harness can actually reach the ECU just fine if you make some slight changes to the harness, and then extend the coil, ignitor, AFM, noise filter, temp sensor, oil sending unit, cold start injector switch, and maybe one or two other things. This ended up being much easier and simpler than taking the whole harness apart and redoing it, but of course, on the 5th gen, the plugs at the fusebox and the interior actually work.

On this car, the fusebox and interior connectors had be hacked off the 6th gen harness, and the rest of the harness was MIA. Unable to use parts of it that I normally would, I opted to do the wiring "5th gen style" and wire the 6th gen fusebox and interior connectors directly to the harness. This proved to work quite well and may become my method of choice for doing harnesses in the future.

Though, these days, I don't do many 3SGTE harnesses, mostly I do 4AGEs, 2JZGTEs, 1JZGTEs, etc.

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 29, 2007 - 6:19 AM

[2slow2nervous]

cars coming along good! i like what im seeing alot cant wait to sit behind the wheel of her!

[Punisher]

Swaps.. I also do engine builds/rebuilds, transmission work and everything inbetween.

Doing a 3sgte swap into a 4th gen gts for a local guy.. He's been jerked around a lot.. I'm charging him a grand(includes any wiring and aftermarket parts installation) plus parts.. others on here have asked me about 3sgte swaps.. I charge 1500 labor.. that includes the harness work and cleaning the engine and replacing whatever seals/gaskets.. pumps.. etc.

This post has been edited by Punisher: Mar 29, 2007 - 10:02 PM

[Batman722]

Swaps.. I also do engine builds/rebuilds, transmission work and everything inbetween.

Doing a 3sgte swap into a 4th gen gts for a local guy.. He's been jerked around a lot.. I'm charging him a grand(includes any wiring and aftermarket parts installation) plus parts.. others on here have asked me about 3sgte swaps.. I charge 1500 labor.. that includes the harness work and cleaning the engine and replacing whatever seals/gaskets.. pumps.. etc.

what does any of this have to do with 2slow2nervous' car getting done ?

If you got beef with tweak or his buddy then make a new post about it so you 2 can cry about who has bigger balls then.

back to topic, IC looks good.

[brianforster]

well tweak kind of called him out on his claim that he does quality work for cheaper, not takin sidees cause i love tweak, but just pointin out

[phattyduck]

We cut the endtanks off and modified the intercooler to flow in and out on the same end...


-Doc

Interesting... I'm not sure I agree that this is a good idea. The air now only has 5 passages to go through, and twice the distance inside the intercooler, along with a few hard bends at the far side. The cross-sectional area inside the intercooler is decrease and I would imagine this would make a large flow restriction.

What was the thinking behind this? I would prefer a pipe to run up behind the crash bar and around rather than doing it this way (see the DSM guys and their FMICs).

-Charlie

[playr158]

the cross sectional area is the same, unless they are hacking off some amount of the IC core. Instead of 1 shoter fat area the charge now goes 1/2 as wide but makes a double pass....if you do your math and all that fun jazz and common sense its cooling the exact same amount as it would in a normal straight setup. only downside is the 180* turn that it now was to do on the other end tank but its negligible performance wise

[Punisher]

Is the intercooler completely finished as seen in pics?

This post has been edited by Punisher: Mar 30, 2007 - 7:27 AM

[Dr_Tweak]

Swaps.. I also do engine builds/rebuilds, transmission work and everything inbetween.

Doing a 3sgte swap into a 4th gen gts for a local guy.. He's been jerked around a lot.. I'm charging him a grand(includes any wiring and aftermarket parts installation) plus parts.. others on here have asked me about 3sgte swaps.. I charge 1500 labor.. that includes the harness work and cleaning the engine and replacing whatever seals/gaskets.. pumps.. etc.

Just so that I understand you correctly, you're saying that you do swaps much better than I do with much better results for cheaper, is that right?

the cross sectional area is the same, unless they are hacking off some amount of the IC core. Instead of 1 shoter fat area the charge now goes 1/2 as wide but makes a double pass....if you do your math and all that fun jazz and common sense its cooling the exact same amount as it would in a normal straight setup. only downside is the 180* turn that it now was to do on the other end tank but its negligible performance wise

Not only that, the route taken to get to the intercooler from the turbo is much shorter and uses less bends, so in the end you win out this way.

Is the intercooler completely finished as seen in pics?

YES! WE THOUGHT THAT THE AIR WOULD MAGICALLY MAKE THE 180-DEGREE TURN AT THE END AND COME BACK INTO THE INTERCOOLER PIPING ALL BY ITSELF!



As for angrymike's welding skills, you can't compare this:



with this:



Compare the welds. If you don't see the difference and don't know why it's important, then you need to stop, and go argue with someone else on the internet.

Mike's last job, by the way, was welding parts for GULFSTREAM and BOEING.

-Doc

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Mar 30, 2007 - 9:38 AM

[x_itchy_b_x]

you guys should be board rivals lol! that would be awesome.

[Dr_Tweak]

I think not.

[playr158]

why can't you compare them?
they are both done by hand? i think its perfectly reasonable to do so..

runner length, runner position, material quality and weld quality are all factors comparable to any manifold
but we could just get out a sonogram or whatever that bit is and really inspect the welds for direction of flow and all that crap..

oh i also forgot to mention price(all of them are sub 900$ from NEUKIN) and such(warranty theirs is lifetime) is useful for comparison as well

welds



side noted here is a cast iron one that showed up lately



This post has been edited by playr158: Mar 30, 2007 - 10:17 AM

[snapshotgt]

Dan, get real - this is not a forum board to discuss things, this is tweaks shrine thread where people can worship him.

This post has been edited by snapshotgt: Mar 30, 2007 - 10:39 AM