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> Subs facing front or back?, Before i build my boxes
post May 7, 2007 - 6:00 PM
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sapperk



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I know I get asked this alot but i do not know if i have the right answer. Subs in a hatch back. I am mounting them where my back seats go. Be fore i build the box what direction should they face. Ive tried towards the front and the back and i really dont notice a huge difference. Does anybody notice a difference wether they have them facing foward or towards the trunk.
post May 7, 2007 - 6:02 PM
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x_itchy_b_x



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I was always told to have them face the rear. so the sounds waves can expand larger while bouncing off the trunk. or something to that affect lol.


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post May 7, 2007 - 6:16 PM
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QUOTE(x_itchy_b_x @ May 7, 2007 - 7:02 PM) [snapback]555096[/snapback]

I was always told to have them face the rear. so the sounds waves can expand larger while bouncing off the trunk. or something to that affect lol.

i know they should face the rear, im not exactly sure as to why, but its something like that.
post May 7, 2007 - 6:48 PM
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Thats what i heared too, anyone have them facing front. I wonder if the trunk will rattle less.

post May 7, 2007 - 6:54 PM
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GTSOwner

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for best results, place box at the back of the trunk, facing back. wink.gif


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post May 7, 2007 - 7:23 PM
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sapperk



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i am placing them towards the front where the back seats were. this way i still have full use of my trunk.

post May 7, 2007 - 7:50 PM
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make it bounce off the glass....That sounds the best to me..


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post May 7, 2007 - 8:27 PM
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yea thats what i hear thats where i got them facing now, its just my trunk rattles so bad. i got rubbercoating and i got dynamat in the trunk. I guess ill have to do it both ways for a while and test it out.
post May 7, 2007 - 9:44 PM
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tim86

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yea face them up or back to the rear... i face mine to the rear and it rattles a lot, but its so much worse with the box close to the back of the hatch
post May 7, 2007 - 9:49 PM
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BANDPASS BOX!!! subs fire rear but sound goes UPPPPP smile.gif smile.gif


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post May 7, 2007 - 9:53 PM
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slvr_celica_GT_8...



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face the rear of the car i tried mine both ways and the other ways better


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post May 7, 2007 - 11:11 PM
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QUOTE(pittfirefighter @ May 7, 2007 - 7:49 PM) [snapback]555186[/snapback]

BANDPASS BOX!!! subs fire rear but sound goes UPPPPP smile.gif smile.gif
i have my band pass box where the subs are firing towards each other..with a 9.7 inch deep 6inch pvc pipe port firing up on the glass.....best box ive ever built and it sounds killer..


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post May 8, 2007 - 12:37 AM
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Im not just trieing to get the ultimate sound, im trieing to get good sound eith little rattling on the outside. My 2 12" MTX thunders pound pretty hard and sound great along with my 4 infiniti kapas. My amp for the subs is down to -2 on my deck and it still pounds. I want to eliminate the vibrations on the outside.

post May 8, 2007 - 12:49 AM
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i always thought 10's would be better for our hatches....


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post May 8, 2007 - 3:04 AM
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Mine is where my rear seats were and I put mine facing upwards - it sounds great biggrin.gif
post May 8, 2007 - 7:29 AM
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the only bandpass boxes ive heard sounded like ass.... seems like they just look a lot cooler than they sound
post May 8, 2007 - 8:21 AM
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The box should be as far back to the seats as possible and aim towards the back or the trunk. This is so that the sound wave can have more room to amplify and refract off the hatch itself. The trunk acts like a resonating chamber and if you have the sub box closer to the back then you leave less for it to bounce of and make efficient sound. I hope this makes sense I could get more technical but then I'd lose people.


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post May 8, 2007 - 8:24 AM
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I have one 10 fosgate p1 facing up and it sounds pretty good for only 150watt's. I figured that it would reflect over the glass better than though a seat.
It shakes the hatch alot though, and the lisence plate.

You cannot hear any thump outside the car though, but when u put ur head in its like night and day.
-dave




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post May 8, 2007 - 8:44 AM
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Like I said the trunk is a resonating camber...but your case since you have a Hatchback the whole car basiclly acts as one. You would not usally hear it outside of the car that well unless you haev some serious power going to it. Also if everything is vibrating what you can do is remove all of the plastic paneling around the hatch itself put dynomat around it , take a roller or something simlar press it all down. DO NOT make holes where the clips would go in, instead press them through the dynomat until they click into place. This should stop the hatch from shaking. As far as the plate you can take off the rear plate assembly section dyomat 2 or layers in there then also take off your plate and apply dynomat directly to the back of it. This should but elminate the rattle. If it doesn't then go back and do another layer. biggrin.gif
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resonating



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post May 8, 2007 - 8:45 AM
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1 15" R-F P-1 in the Hatch facing front - no rattles. Face it towards the back and it rattles like crazy. I find that facing the sub towards the back is better for coupes and cars that are shorter and therfore the sub is closer to the drivers head. My 15" is in a full size box and it's all the way to the rear of the hatch. Sounds perfect like that.
Just my .02.


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post May 8, 2007 - 8:53 AM
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QUOTE(Daftboy @ May 8, 2007 - 8:44 AM) [snapback]555315[/snapback]

Like I said the trunk is a resonating camber...but your case since you have a Hatchback the whole car basiclly acts as one. You would not usally hear it outside of the car that well unless you haev some serious power going to it. Also if everything is vibrating what you can do is remove all of the plastic paneling around the hatch itself put dynomat around it , take a roller or something simlar press it all down. DO NOT make holes where the clips would go in, instead press them through the dynomat until they click into place. This should stop the hatch from shaking. As far as the plate you can take off the rear plate assembly section dyomat 2 or layers in there then also take off your plate and apply dynomat directly to the back of it. This should but elminate the rattle. If it doesn't then go back and do another layer. biggrin.gif
QUOTE
resonating



Dude I got 2 layers of dynamat covering the entire trunk. It still rattles like crazy. I have 2 MTX 12" thunders at 800 watts each. I have a 1600 Watt amp pushing them. I dont know if thats considered alot of power but it kicks the hell out of my trunk.


I think im gona go with the facing front for now. 1 15" that would pretty pretty freaking sweet but nah i cant do that. Ill tell ya how it turns out in my custom interior topic.

post May 8, 2007 - 9:27 AM
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yea 1600 watts is a lot... my 1200 makes the whole car shake, especially the spoiler/bumper/and rear wiper... ive been thinking about dynamat but it just seems like id need a lot and im already satisfied with how the bass and sound quality is
post May 8, 2007 - 9:31 AM
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is that RMS? or peak power?


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post May 8, 2007 - 9:32 AM
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tim, i don't know where you heard your bandpass box but if made right, it will sound very very good in a hatchback... if you heard it in a trunk... it going to sound like garbage, they are only made for hatchbacks, vans, SUV's, etc... they have to have open space above them... and other than that... either the box was junk or not the right dimensions...


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post May 8, 2007 - 9:38 AM
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Daftboy



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Cubic space is key


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post May 8, 2007 - 9:48 AM
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800 Peak
550 RMS

What is a BandPass Box?
post May 8, 2007 - 10:08 AM
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QUOTE(tim86 @ May 8, 2007 - 5:29 AM) [snapback]555301[/snapback]

the only bandpass boxes ive heard sounded like ass.... seems like they just look a lot cooler than they sound

thats because people dont know the correct way to build them..My box will make the ****tiest speakers sound good...Let me make you one ill send it to you and then you tell me it sounds like crap.
But also mine doesnt look cool either..Mines a fully enclosed mdf box with a 6 inch port in the middle bouncing off the glass. i call it my stealth because you dont see anything but a box with a hole in it. Down side is its not pretty because your subs cant be seen.And if you feel the need to play with your speakers is a pain because you have to open up the top of the box to access the subs..But to me its sound over show.And it great for college area where systems are known to get stolen because if its covered in black carpet you cant really tell theres a box there if you hatch is tinted.

This post has been edited by Shocker: May 8, 2007 - 10:10 AM


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post May 8, 2007 - 12:35 PM
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CelicaST_CALI



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i have a coupe whats the best to opitimize the sound of a 300$ audobahn sub?


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post May 8, 2007 - 12:46 PM
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Sinyk



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When I had my old hatchback, I found having my subs at the back of the hatch facing up bouncing the sound off the glass was the loudest.

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That's a pic of what my old system looked like with 2 15's in my old sentra. (Fuzzy pic, I know. It's a 35mm pic scanned.)

After that setup when I downgraded for SQ, I used a single 12 and had it against the seats facing back into the trunk, perpendicular to the trunk surface.

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I found that this setup gave the cleanest sound, least rattles, and best bass quality. Note that I also had the sub running in reverse phase, so when the bass kicked, it went towards the front of the car instead of the rear.

I haven't decided if I'm going to put a sub in the trunk of my Celica yet, but if i did, it would be against the seats facing the back of the car.


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post May 8, 2007 - 2:03 PM
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i've always heard that subs are omni directional so it doesn't really matter which way they face..


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post May 8, 2007 - 3:13 PM
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Negative



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To a certain extent that is true but diff types of woofers, positions and acoustical properties of a car can have an effect on this. Also everyone's ears are different as well as musical tastes so it basically comes down to tuning your system for your ear and the car itself.


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post May 9, 2007 - 6:07 PM
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sapperk



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Well ill let you know how it turns out when i install it.. Right now im doing all my sounddampering and fiberglass stuff.


My Interior Project

post May 10, 2007 - 7:30 AM
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Gonna look good.


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post May 10, 2007 - 8:43 AM
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My bass always sounded better when I had subs facing towards the rear instead of facing towards the front. Perhaps it was because my plastic panels behind the rear seats rattled and made noise though.

As of yesterday though, my sub fires towards the passenger side of the car, and it sounds great. I'll have some pictures up later today.


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post May 10, 2007 - 8:48 AM
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I would like too see this ... since I am trying to make an idea of a box to make for a coupe.

This post has been edited by Daftboy: May 10, 2007 - 8:49 AM


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post May 10, 2007 - 10:25 AM
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The enclosure is just under .5 cubic feet. It's predominately MDF, held together with a few screws and fiberglass on all of the seams. It bolts into factory holes, has a small footprint, allows access to the spare tire and jack, looks decent, and sounds great. smile.gif

It only took me about 6-8 hours, so it's by no means perfect, but I'm pretty happy with it.
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post May 10, 2007 - 10:30 AM
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I was thinking of doing pretty much the same setup but I will have one on each side. Do you still happend to have the plans you drew out or some specs on the box?


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post May 10, 2007 - 10:36 AM
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QUOTE(Daftboy @ May 10, 2007 - 8:30 AM) [snapback]556148[/snapback]

I was thinking of doing pretty much the same setup but I will have one on each side. Do you still happend to have the plans you drew out or some specs on the box?


Nope...I didn't draw any plans or have any specs to follow as I was doing it. I cut the bottom piece, then the front and rear, screwed them together, then calculated approximately what size I'd need the sides to be to accommodate my airspace, then cut those sides and screwed them on. Then I sealed all the seams with several layers of fiberglass cloth with the top still off to make it easier. Then I made the top piece, screwed that on, and sealed those seams from the hole for the sub. Then I cut the hole for the speaker terminal piece and screwed that in, then carpeted everything, filled the box with poly-fill, and bolted in the sub and it was done. smile.gif

I did model parts of the box using cardboard at various stages. That worked out well.


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