LED TVSV mod not working alkdfjaldfj, green red flash at boost. Options

[urbandork]

ok so after installing the LED knock light mod i have found that at any boost level my red and green led flicker on and off rather then just the green staying on. I assume this means i have knock in one cylinder and each time that cylinder fires my knock sensor picks it up and thus my green and red light blink on and off.

what could this be from? my oil does need to be changed. I guess i should look at the plugs right? compression test maybe????

i dont exactly know what i should start off with?

any advice?

i have a 255 wabrol pump, stock injectors and stock plugs and im running 91 octane.

please shed some light?

so i know its not knock now but something else. It seems to be wired correctly but still when im at boost the green led does not stay on. instead the red and green led flash.

and when my key is turned to acc. the green light is full brightness and the red is half.

for all you who have done the mod when the key is in the acc position what light is on?

i dont get why both are on the ecu and its tcp line must be crazy.


does it matter that i got my ground for the red led and power for the green led from the plug for the cig lighter????? perhaps maybe the current is to strong i dont knowalfhdlhfaldfhj



This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 21, 2007 - 3:47 PM

[lagos]

it means that you didnt solder your wires correctly.

[urbandork]

ill have to double check but im pretty sure i got all the wires done correctly.

the red from the red led and black from the green led reads off the ecu tpc wire

and the black from the red goes to ground and the red from the green goes to power.

isnt that how its suppose to be????

i figured if i did it wrong one of the lights wouldnt light up right?

and why else would the green and red LED's flash back and forth???

plus if there is really knock the light is supose to stay red for a little while right

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 21, 2007 - 3:49 PM

[lagos]

these are not really monitoring the knock sensor. so you would never have it blink ever time you knocked or anything like that. the idea is that they will tell you when the ecu is in safe mode. once it goes into safe mode, it will stay there for at least a few min.

here is a wiring diagram on how to set this up.



it is also totally possible that this mod does not work correctly on a 3rd gen motor. ive never tried it, so i dont know for sure.

[urbandork]

damn so i checked the wiring and its jsut as its supose to be.

i tried to only connect the green led and it still blinked

then i tried only the red led and it still blinked

when i have the key turned to acc. both the green and the red light up but the red led isnt as bright. Then if i disconnect the ground line on the red led which is conncted to the ground from the cig lit. plug the red led turns off and the green stays on..... why would the red led be on anyway??????

omg so frustrated... and i cut that damn plastic peice so the evc wouldnt be centered so i could put the leds next to it...

any advice? has any one with a 3rd gen tried this mod???

[lagos]

are you sure you connected the RED wire from the green led, directly to the Black wire from the green led....and then run a single wire to the ecu?

also, how did you figure out what pin to use on your 3rd gen ecu?

[urbandork]

are you sure you connected the RED wire from the green led, directly to the Black wire from the green led....and then run a single wire to the ecu?

also, how did you figure out what pin to use on your 3rd gen ecu?

was that supose to read....

are you sure you DIDNT connect the red wire from the green led directly to the black wire from the RED led and then run the black wire from the green led and the red wire from the red led to the signal wire to the ecu.

Cus thats now how ur diagram looks to be.

I double checked the wiring and its exactly how it shows on the diagram

im using the ground and 12v suplly from the cig lighter plug (not the plug for the lighted ring of the cig lighter)

what i really dont get is why when i have the key turned to acc. both lights are on. the green being fully lit and the red only looking half bright.

When im off boost the red led is on but when im on boost the green and red blink in opposite of eachother. its like the ecu line is changing poles all the time.



the TCP line should light up the red led no matter what sets it in safe mode right? cus im thinking about unpluging the level sensor for the IC to get it to put it in safe mode. what do you think about doing this.... jsut to see what the tcp does

[lagos]

now im getting confused. ...

you take the power wire from the red led, and the ground wire from the green led and join them togher. then run a single wire to the ecu. so you should have a Y connection.

then for the other 2 wires, you find any 12v source for the positive wire and any good ground for the negative.


check your email ... im sending you a vid of how it should work while driving.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 21, 2007 - 11:35 AM

[BloodyStupidDave...]

Now I am curious.

check your email ... im sending you a vid of how it should work while driving.

Ooh, vid! Any chance you cold pop it on YouTube or Google and paste the link here?

[urbandork]

i know how it should look but it doesnt do that.

I pulled the plug for the level sensor on my IC so it would put me in safe mode and the red led stays red all the time. so i know its working


when i have no cel and the plug is back in i still am getting the red and green led flashing on and off from eachother.


akjdfjzldfjdsal;f;df



y isnt this working
i have the y connection just like it supose to be and im running the other wires jsut as they are supose to be.


I dont get it. this is frustrating.



Im begining to think that theres something else rong with my car or ecu and that theres actually a reason why the tcp line is constantly chaing poles when under boost.

is there any reason for the vsv for the turbo to flick back and forth from normal to non normal while boosting.

[urbandork]

ok so i took another look at the wiring today and took some pix.

im getting the tvsv/tcp signal for my turbo off of pin 2 on the largest plug which is C. This was found via the EWD for the st205 and backed up via other pitures on line

the line can be seen here and its the blue with red line and im tapping/teeing in about and inch after the plug


i have my LED's hooked up like this (see pic) with the + from the red LED and the - from the green LED soldered together with the white wire which is tapped into the blue w/red line wire off the ecu plug in the first pic. The - and + from the red and green led, respectivly, are going to the ground and a 12v line which use to feed the CIG lighter.



Thinking that radioshack may have messed up on the wiring of the resistor or something i tested it out. BOTH led's when hooked up to a ground an 12v line WILL only work with the red wire to power and the black wire to ground.

While taking everything apart to rewire i noticed that with the wires hooked up like they are in the above picture and the key turned to ACC both lights lit up. The red one only being half as intence as the green one. BUUUUTTT when i took off the signal line both light up equally as bright. I have a piture below to explain what this looked like



So whats wrong here?????? why is it when the LED's are hooked up @$$ backwards and powered they work?????? they dont work like batteries do they???
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So after being stumped as to why both LED's light up when wired up backwards like that i thought it might be smart just to wire ONE color LED to the signal line. I chose the GREEN led. the TCP singal line wired to the green led's black wire and the red wire to the 12v powero line for the cig lighter.......

i took it for a test drive and guess what?????

the DAMN green LED still blinks on and off just as it had before.


THIS MEANS that it must be my ECU's TCP signal wire right?????? but why would the TCP line osilate polarities between neg. and pos.

[lagos]

do you have your tvsv pluged into the factory harness?

[urbandork]

do you have your tvsv pluged into the factory harness?

what do you mean? im pretty sure the answer is yes as i pulled the factory harness out of the clip intached and it all went in the way it came out.

do you mean the wire labled "vsv (for turbo pressure)" on the EWD? cus thats still pluged in all i did was T into that as its the TPC on the ECU.

what what do you mean by the tvsv plug???? do you know what plug number it is or where it would be? and what it looks like?

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 21, 2007 - 10:29 PM

[lagos]

im talking about the actual tvsv unit thats is bolted to the block. if you forgot to plug that in, the led wont work.

you soldered your connections, right? no crimping or anything that could have come loose?

you should test that ecu wire with a multimeter as you cycle the key from off to acc and on. you should see it giving 12v and then turning into a ground as you cycle the key.

if all that doesnt help, then i would guess they changed something on the 3rd gen ecu.

[lagos]

can you link me to any 3rd gen wiring diagrams you were looking at? i dont have any on my pc for the 3rd gen motor.

i did have one really hard to read pinout jpg. it showed tpc to be the 2nd pin from the top, top row going from left to right. i think MAYBE you got the wrong wire... you might have taped into one of the wires that goes to your injectors (no wonder they are pulsating/blinking).
but again, i dont have a real diagram to look at to know for sure.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 22, 2007 - 12:25 AM

[urbandork]

can you link me to any 3rd gen wiring diagrams you were looking at? i dont have any on my pc for the 3rd gen motor.

i did have one really hard to read pinout jpg. it showed tpc to be the 2nd pin from the top, top row going from left to right. i think MAYBE you got the wrong wire... you might have taped into one of the wires that goes to your injectors (no wonder they are pulsating/blinking).
but again, i dont have a real diagram to look at to know for sure.

im using the EWD from the st205 repair manuel. I know its not the injector wire cus while those are on the same plug E10 C the wires are c24 injector 4 black yellow wire, c25 injector 3 black red wire, c11 injector 2 black white wire, c12 injector one black blue wire

the EDW clearly says the TPC is wire 2 on plug e10C/big plug and that its a blue red wire.

where exactly is the TVSV unit you speak of? and does it have a plug?? what does it look like? where on the block is it?

thanks for all the help?

do u know of anyone with this mod on a 3rd gen? would you be able to ask on celica tech cus i still cant post there.

damn i forgot lol .......... i dont remember where i DLed the repair manual for the st205 but i have it saved so if u want it let me know i can email it to you.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 22, 2007 - 1:03 AM

[BloodyStupidDave...]

im using the EWD from the st205 repair manuel. I know its not the injector wire cus while those are on the same plug E10 C the wires are c24 injector 4 black yellow wire, c25 injector 3 black red wire, c11 injector 2 black white wire, c12 injector one black blue wire

the EDW clearly says the TPC is wire 2 on plug e10C/big plug and that its a blue red wire.

I am not sure this is right. You are trying to monitor the knock sensor, right? TPC is the turbo pressure (boost) meter output from the ECU. This is a mark-space signal intended to drive analogue or digital dials/gauges. The ratio of mark (+12v) to space (0v) indicates the level. Which explains what you are seeing with the red and blue LEDs.

I am not familiar with this mod, but if you want to monitor the knock sensor, it is on pin A13 and is a white wire. If you want to tap into this, it is important that you use shielded (coax) wire to do so.

[lagos]

can someone post an st205 wiring diagram?

[urbandork]

can someone post an st205 wiring diagram?

the one i have is a good amount of pages i can email it to you.

[phattyduck]

I am not sure this is right. You are trying to monitor the knock sensor, right? TPC is the turbo pressure (boost) meter output from the ECU. This is a mark-space signal intended to drive analogue or digital dials/gauges. The ratio of mark (+12v) to space (0v) indicates the level. Which explains what you are seeing with the red and blue LEDs.

I am not familiar with this mod, but if you want to monitor the knock sensor, it is on pin A13 and is a white wire. If you want to tap into this, it is important that you use shielded (coax) wire to do so.

That's not quite what this mod is doing. He is monitoring the Turbo Pressure VSV output from the ECU to see if the ECU is 'happy' - meaning no knock, appropriate temps and no check engine lights. The signal doesn't switch quickly and should be constantly red, or switching from red to green on boost transitions. This part of the ECU control is the same (or very very similar) to the gen2 motor/ecu.

-Charlie

[phattyduck]

ok so i took another look at the wiring today and took some pix.

im getting the tvsv/tcp signal for my turbo off of pin 2 on the largest plug which is C. This was found via the EWD for the st205 and backed up via other pitures on line

the line can be seen here and its the blue with red line and im tapping/teeing in about and inch after the plug

You haven't soldered the wire on yet in the pic, right? It looks like just a bit of the insulation has been stripped in the picture.

-Charlie

[urbandork]

yeah but i soldered a line shortly after the pic was taken.

[urbandork]

I am not sure this is right. You are trying to monitor the knock sensor, right? TPC is the turbo pressure (boost) meter output from the ECU. This is a mark-space signal intended to drive analogue or digital dials/gauges. The ratio of mark (+12v) to space (0v) indicates the level. Which explains what you are seeing with the red and blue LEDs.

I am not familiar with this mod, but if you want to monitor the knock sensor, it is on pin A13 and is a white wire. If you want to tap into this, it is important that you use shielded (coax) wire to do so.

That's not quite what this mod is doing. He is monitoring the Turbo Pressure VSV output from the ECU to see if the ECU is 'happy' - meaning no knock, appropriate temps and no check engine lights. The signal doesn't switch quickly and should be constantly red, or switching from red to green on boost transitions. This part of the ECU control is the same (or very very similar) to the gen2 motor/ecu.

-Charlie

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

[phattyduck]

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

The only thing left to check at this point is power and ground for your LEDs. Where did you hook those up. Also, do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Does the motor boost up to 12-14psi or 8-10psi? And make sure the Turbo VSV is hooked up. It is hiddend behind/below the intake manifold and is easy to miss - but I think that would cause a CEL.

If all else fails, I can help you out in person again. I have a few other ideas about what to check, but they are hard to explain online...

-Charlie

[urbandork]

EXACTLYYYYYYYYYY...... so why isnt the signal wire being constant???? and instead fluctuating between ground and power.

Like i said. i know its not the way i have the LED's wired because even when i have only ONE wired up it still blinks.

The only thing left to check at this point is power and ground for your LEDs. Where did you hook those up. Also, do you have a boost gauge hooked up? Does the motor boost up to 12-14psi or 8-10psi? And make sure the Turbo VSV is hooked up. It is hiddend behind/below the intake manifold and is easy to miss - but I think that would cause a CEL.

If all else fails, I can help you out in person again. I have a few other ideas about what to check, but they are hard to explain online...

-Charlie

Im using the plug for the CIG lighter for my ground and power for the LED's

when i pulled the level sensor and got a CEL it put the car in safe mode and the red LED stayed on. My boost gauge confirmed this by reporting back 8-10 psi like it should

when i put the plug back in and i again was able to run 12-14psi like i should when everything was normal. BUT the LED's still flashed back and forth as if the TPC line was changing poles back and forth.

im giong to look for the tvsv but im pretty sure its hooked up other wise when i took off the level sensor wire and got a cel i wouldnt have toped my boost at 8-10psi rite?

[WannabeGT4]

The red LED is dimmer because the VSV's coil is acting as a resitor.

The LED staying red when you disconnect the level sensor means that the VSV is staying closed which is absolutely correct.

The LEDs flashing back and forth can only mean that the 3rd gen ECU uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to control boost instead of a bleed type VSV like what the 2nd gen has. PWM is the same method used by fancy aftermarket EBCs.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Jun 25, 2007 - 2:17 PM

[urbandork]

could this be true????? any one want to comment?

[lagos]

SOMEONE POST THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR A 3RD GEN!

[WannabeGT4]

I'll try to post links to the manuals tonight. I'm almost sure the 3rd gen TVSV is PWM though.

[phattyduck]

SOMEONE POST THE WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR A 3RD GEN!

The diagram is the same... just a wire from the ECU to the TVSV. I haven't put a multimeter or scope on the wire though, so I don't know how it acts in a correctly running car (j/k! ).

-Charlie

[phattyduck]

Found some diagrams on my compy:









Nothing obviously different with the boost control setup compared to a gen2, from what I have seen...

-Charlie

[WannabeGT4]

Here are the ST205 BGBs... Should be the same thing I sent urbandork:

105 MB
http://wannabegt4.myftp.org/Celica/ST205/RM398E-RM399E.zip

Let me know what your download speeds are. I'm kinda curious.

This post has been edited by WannabeGT4: Jun 25, 2007 - 6:09 PM

[lagos]

finally ... ive been wanting a 205 bgb for a while. getting about 28k a sec, but im on wifi.

[urbandork]

any verdict?

[lagos]

this mod does not work correctly with a 3rd gen.

[phattyduck]

this mod does not work correctly with a 3rd gen.

Can you point to your source? Or just the evidence presented in this thread?

[WannabeGT4]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

[BloodyStupidDave...]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

If that is the case, someone with a little electronics knowledge would be able to design a filter circuit. A cheap alternative might be to switch away from LEDs to miniature incandescent bulbs.

[urbandork]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

If that is the case, someone with a little electronics knowledge would be able to design a filter circuit. A cheap alternative might be to switch away from LEDs to miniature incandescent bulbs.

phattyduck would you know to do this??? i know you have knowledge in electronics.

[phattyduck]

phattyduck would you know to do this??? i know you have knowledge in electronics.

I'd have to see what the signals look like... I don't think it'll be easy to have it look right.

-Charlie

[lagos]

I say it works... just a little differently. Urbandork said that the red LED lights up solidly in safe mode which is correct since the VSV should be completely closed. The fact that the LEDs blink just means that it's pulse width modulated. If you can deal with the rapidly blinking lights it should be fine to leave it how it is.

If that is the case, someone with a little electronics knowledge would be able to design a filter circuit. A cheap alternative might be to switch away from LEDs to miniature incandescent bulbs.

from my understanding, incandescent lights could damage the ecu. there is a reason why led's with resistors are used.

you could always buy a JS knock guard and use that. or try to look into obd2 diagnostic tools.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 27, 2007 - 6:20 PM