Pics of my car...getting lots of makeovers., 7th gen short shifter installed Options

[lubu]

Doing some major mods on my car, will update this thread regularly...










BTW im doing a gt4 conversion i already got the gt4 hood but im tossing between the stock gt4 and the c-one bumper (pic below),which one shoule i get. Im thinking of c-one...



This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 21, 2008 - 6:45 AM

[KaJuN]

the seats look really good in there. I personally prefer the regular gt four bumper, but realisticaly it's just a matter of preference. Do whatever you think looks best. Car's lookin good btw

[lubu]

thanks...toook me abt 4 hours each seats and a lot of cutting and bolting and sewing for the bak seat ...but you gotta love the power seats adjusting options along with the heatpad ... im ordering a c-one front now so hopefully it arrives soon....i got a gt4 hood with all the extras for 440 usd will posy some pics of that sexy hood up..

[CaliJeff]

i heard that u have to get the gt 4 bumper to match the gt4 hood cuz otherwize, with any other mixture, it won't align right.

btw, did those dash gauges come stock ? or modification ?

[lubu]

yea i ordered the gt4 bumper..shipping cost more than the hood itself
those gauges were moded..mixed stock with some procarparts gauges..

[Dragondog]

from the look of the int. looks like ur going for a luxury look get some wood grain kits for the center, dash, key, hole vents and doors it will look very clean with the stering wheel you got along with the leather lexus pwr,heated seats.....btw do the seats fold fowerd for passengers to load in the back? is it motorised too? or does it just spring fowerd......but all in all i like it....need some red and black ones for mine

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Jul 23, 2007 - 5:14 PM

[lubu]

from the look of the int. looks like ur going for a luxury look get some wood grain kits for the center, dash, key, hole vents and doors it will look very clean with the stering wheel you got along with the leather lexus pwr,heated seats.....btw do the seats fold fowerd for passengers to load in the back? is it motorised too? or does it just spring fowerd......but all in all i like it....need some red and black ones for mine

yea its fully motorised..although it goes really slow forward when someone at the back needs to get out, a pain sometimes Im thinking of putting a forward spring mechanism like the stock under the front pass but it would make the seat too high i need some ideas. Im thinking of getting a supra carbon magnesium wheel, that would go well with my current setup, im pretty sure that the supra wheel will fit but does anyone here has experience with them on our car?

BTW my c-one bumper is here but it doesnt come with any c1 badge??? all they gave me is some instructions, screws and a c1 sticker. Thats it..hrms i though for 1500usd at least i get a badge

[azian_advanced]

i have a spare c-one badge if you want it... but it wasn't cheap..

[lubu]

i have a spare c-one badge if you want it... but it wasn't cheap..

pm sent

[lubu]

test fit the bumper and sanded the bonnet...






stripping down the interior...ready for the big job!
btw the momo and the hub are for sale in FS






btw does anyone knows if the gt4 latch in the 5thgen work on our 6gc bonnet?..i getting a st185 clip but i couldnt find the 6g gt4 latch...

[lubu]

my "J-SPEC SUPRA MKIV IS 300 OEM CARBON STEERING"..






took the momo steering out




took the airbag module out and to my horror...the KMIV wheel doesnt have a horn ring, the supra probably use wire instead.




Found the momo adapter sitting nearby...>>>>the copper ring<<<...




Doesnt fit.




I aint giving up that easily---> some sanding and cutting and expanding, finally.....




Its on....




...and showtime........





This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 22, 2007 - 10:57 AM

[Valo666]

wow..i thought that wheel was a mith...nice man. How much did it cost u??

[Driveby]

I need one of those wheels, that is awesome!!

[forkee]

wow...thats very unique! cant wait to see the finished product!

[lubu]

cost me $699USD shipped from japan...expensive but worth it. I just got the gt4 latch from a german dude so that problem is solved...

I got the st185 clip too..cost me 2000AUD...88' kms on the clock, is that cheap guys?? i searched around quite abit but they all pretty expensive in OZ an st205 clip cost abt 5000AUD thats if i can even find one. Shipping from anywhere else whould be too expensive for me not to mention the customs tax fee.

[azian_advanced]

wow, first the powered lexus seats, then the gt-4 hood, c-one st205 bumper, projectors, jdm supra cf steering wheel, and now you go and bought a st185 clip?! i hate you....

[celica47]

Very nice! You should do a detailed write up of the seats and the steering wheel mods.

[Slick]

That CF steering wheel looks great!

[goferris]

did you steering wheel come with the airbag as well? looks sexy as hell. wish i could get my hands on one of those. looks good buddy!

[lubu]

Very nice! You should do a detailed write up of the seats and the steering wheel mods.

Thanks, I'll do the write up once everything finished.

did you steering wheel come with the airbag as well? looks sexy as hell. wish i could get my hands on one of those. looks good buddy

Yes the aigbag came with the wheel..I came across the same wheel (i think) for 700 brand new with out airbag from kinwaymotor.

cant wait to drive this wheel with a 3sgte.....BRM.BRM....

This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 23, 2007 - 11:56 PM

[NGHTKD]

u still goin to run automatic with 3sgte??? (doesnt seem right)

[lubu]

u still goin to run automatic with 3sgte??? (doesnt seem right)

LOL nooOoOooO....i havent started on the 3sgte swap as of yet...probably start on monday and probably get a friend to do it as i have tons of uni work...but no there is no point really getting a 3sgte swap and have auto transmission. Which is why in my other thread i asked if the driveshaft on the automatic fit into the manual tranny..

[FortuneCookie]

WOW. Another GT-FOUR conversion... Makes me want to start mine. Wait a minute... I've already started. LoL. It must be "Convert Your Celica! Season." Keep up the good work. Imma keep tabs on this.

This post has been edited by FortuneCookie: Aug 25, 2007 - 12:58 AM

[lubu]

ok...the halfcut seems to be in good nick, compression test passed. everything seems to be legit got the motor out, timing belt needs to be changed...well just a small update and here are some goodies that will "enventually" go in my 6g.



honda s2000 projectors plus hid system, Osram brand german's made:D





st205 cluster, 102kms i had to rewind it to 82 to match my engine...




Phillips HID, bought from Coomer...



Finally the long await auto climate has arrived...complete with everything




This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 30, 2007 - 10:44 AM

[cHinaman727]

tyhats huge...

[GotToyota]

I really love what you've done with the interior, nice job.

BTW, how difficult was it to take off the emblems? Do they just pop off?

-Matt

[lubu]

well some bastard kept on prying my back emblem off so i figured better off to shave them, nothing hard really just use a sharp blade and try working on the glue but careful you dont wanna scratch ur paint.

BTW thanks for the nice comment, I like to have a balance between performance & looks.

[GotToyota]

Awesome, I'll try that.

But what did you use to remove the remaining gunk that was behind the emblems left on the paint?

-Matt

[jcaron9gt4]

well some bastard kept on prying my back emblem off so i figured better off to shave them, nothing hard really just use a sharp blade and try working on the glue but careful you dont wanna scratch ur paint.

BTW thanks for the nice comment, I like to have a balance between performance & looks.

just use dental floss....peice of cake, then go back with GooGone to get the rest of the residue

[dutchboy]

Interested in your lexus seat mod.

What year and model did your seats come from?

What mods did you have to do to make them fit?

Are those side airbags I see in the pic?

Thanks

[lubu]

Look what i've got







the only missing things are the pipes and the heat exhanger...and i think i know who has them

dutchboy,

the lexus seats I think are from an IS300 I cut the rails from the front seats and bolted onto the lexus. Abit of work but worth everyminute of it. And yes those are side airbags.

[lubu]

More stuff coming my way...

7 channels Davinci Amp, old school but probably the best amp from SoundStream...This thing btw is HUGE...










Specs:

Pure artistry inside and out. From its first appearance, this amp has been winning accolades from top-rated industry magazines such as "The Best of The Best" (Mobile Sound Magazine) and "Innovative Amplifier of the Year" (Auto Sound and Security Magazine). The DaVinci amplifier addresses all the needs of the car audio enthusiast by powering every speaker in the vehicle, with all the necessary crossovers built in. Aesthetic needs are catered to with the elegant 24-karat gold plated casing, handsomely engraved. 1300 watts of uncompromised artistry.The art of engineering never sounded so good. Auto High Current (subwoofer channel only) Adjusts the amp for maximum power output to the load application

Continuously variable 2, 3 or 4-way crossovers
Rear Channel De-emphasis provides a more realistic listening experience
Power Grid? design optimizes current delivery to and from the power supply
Ultra-Low ESR Capacitance Bank ensures rapid power delivery for dynamic peaks
Vari-quiet? cooling fan maintains safe operating temperatures
Unregulated power supply for higher dynamic headroom
Fault Monitor Power LED
Seven Dual Discrete Class A Drive Stages maximize linearity into any load
Drive Delay 2? eliminates turn-on and turn-off pops and noises
Fully Balanced Class A Inputs for professional quality performance and noise rejection
LSE.Q fully adjustable subwoofer equalization circuit
Gold-Plated 1/? Gauge Power Terminals
24-karat gold plating


NUMBER OF CHANNELS 7
OUTPUT POWER (WATTS):
RMS @ 4 Ohms 50 x 4,+100 x 2,+200 x 1
RMS @ 2 Ohms 100 x 4,+200 x 2,+ 400 x 1
RMS @ 1 Ohms 500 x 1 (subwoofer channel only)
T.H.D.: <0.02%
FREQUENCY RESPONSE:
Channels 1-6 15 - 50k
Channel 7 25 - 2k
SIGNAL TO NOISE RATIO: >100dB
CHANNEL SEPERATION: >60dB
DAMPING FACTOR: >200
INPUT SENSITIVITY: 500mV - 5.0V
CROSOVER SLOPES: High-pass/Band-Pass 12dB Low-Pass 24dB
CROSSOVER FREQUENCIES (HZ):* High-pass/Band-Pass 50 - 4k Low-Pass 200-800
REAR CHANNEL DE-EMPHASIS: 6dB
DIMENSIONS (INCHES): 19 x 14 x 5.5

[97lestyousay]

Looks awesome, nice progress. I love that steering wheel. I have had an old school
soundstream deck/preamp in my truck for years and it still sounds great. They made some very
good quality stuff.

[lubu]

thanks...cant wait to finish off my 3s swap and get this badboy pumping....im a lil worry coz this amp will draws alot of current. Not sure if the 3s alternator can handle the load, for reference this thing accpets 0 awg wire

edit: I'll proabbly do the "big 3 upgrade " first and see how it goes.

This post has been edited by lubu: Oct 11, 2007 - 11:55 PM

[tim86]

wow that soundstream amp is something else... thats bigger than the huge audiobahn unit amps that are in a box also... ive heard good things about those too, i bet it sounds awesome... one of these days i might get a tarantula amp

[stetsonaw]

should throw some blue LEDs behind your speedo to match the rest of your cluster.

[lubu]

should throw some blue LEDs behind your speedo to match the rest of your cluster.

I got a new st205 cluster now...will deffinitely change those greenies with white or blue...i like LEDS but somehow the light is not as bright as the bulb's, even the refractors from VLEDS failed to impress me...maybe its just me.

[kerosene]

ahh so u got the DaVinic... Nice choice ^^

[lubu]

the progress....sorry the pics are abit blurry.
wiring is a mess








much better after 20 mins...

[kerosene]

what a mess... ^^ =) going good though...

[lubu]

205 cap & rotors

[Chanh55]

Are those direct bolt ons?

[chacha]

you gotta tell me where u are getting your stuff from....some of them...i don't even know where to start

[lubu]

Are those direct bolt ons?

Not really, you'll need to machined down the diameter of the rotors or get custom brackets to extend the calipers out...amongs other little things.

you gotta tell me where u are getting your stuff from....some of them...i don't even know where to start

I got some of my stuffs from 6gc members for others I got from ebay, not through direct bidding but I search for ppl who're dismantling their car (205) and ask for that particular part, its cheaper this way.

[bccentaur3]

Once you get this 205 brake swap, you sir will be getting a lot of pms from me.

[lubu]

Found these babies on the steps infront of my door today...woot




This post has been edited by lubu: Dec 6, 2007 - 10:54 PM

[Valo666]

nice..thouse dragon badges are sexy.

[lubu]

lambo hinges, King Springs and exhaust muffler.

my Xmas pressies....

[NapTown94]

so you get a bunch of used stuff for X-mas? I can understand the lambo hinges cuz those are expensive but I mean a muffler and springs aren't expensive. Most springs are $200 or so. splurge and get new.

[hongkongnerdboy]

Found these babies on the steps infront of my door today...woot

wth man i been looking for those badges in forever..

[Rusty]

wow looking great were are you up to?

[malpaso]

amazing work...

[lubu]

so you get a bunch of used stuff for X-mas? I can understand the lambo hinges cuz those are expensive but I mean a muffler and springs aren't expensive. Most springs are $200 or so. splurge and get new.

Haha the guy were selling them all in one shot so i had to buy all three...

@hongkongnerdboy, the badges pop up time to time on ebay..I got mine from there, too.

@Rusty, Thanks, I have been waiting for the W2A and the ct20b but I dont think they're coming anytime soon, anyway im putting everything in as we speak.

@malpaso, Thanks for the comment.

This post has been edited by lubu: Jan 17, 2008 - 11:55 AM

[jason]

very ncie work so far.. im interested in your projector project if you have/havent finished it yet and what exactly you are doing/going to do

i was contemplating some low/high projectors to have the 4 high beam setup... but.. i dont see a very easy way of modding the jdm projectors. seems like alot of hassle for not that much. but projectors that spread more light infront of the car would be nice also... whatever the new mercedes has would be nice as they always drown out my hid's when they pass me on the highway

so i presume your gonan take the lense off... pop off the shroud n mount in the new projectors there?

[Celica power]

damm that is one looking good project good luck whit it

[lubu]

very ncie work so far.. im interested in your projector project if you have/havent finished it yet and what exactly you are doing/going to do

i was contemplating some low/high projectors to have the 4 high beam setup... but.. i dont see a very easy way of modding the jdm projectors. seems like alot of hassle for not that much. but projectors that spread more light infront of the car would be nice also... whatever the new mercedes has would be nice as they always drown out my hid's when they pass me on the highway

so i presume your gonan take the lense off... pop off the shroud n mount in the new projectors there?

yea something like that, but a little more complicated..its not just a matter of removing the lense and the shroud, you also need to mount the projector securely...i got the clear lenses as well, cant wait to try them on

[lubu]

A few pics of the Lexus seats and the carbon steering wheel while Im working on my car:




<p>





<p>
<P>
<p>

[CelicaST_CALI]

"woot: side air bags!!!!!

[lubu]

Okay here is a few pics of today's progress:


Took the stock bumper and bonnet out, the gt4 hood is on the C-one bumper will go on over the weekends...









Finally Im starting to work on my car, here is a list of things to come:

SIII wing
armrest extension
newer 5sfe engine
clearhighs-possibly with projectors
shortshifter
SIII cluster
Lambo doors
GT4 brakes
Clean box
SIII dash
st205 seats

......

This post has been edited by lubu: Jul 21, 2008 - 8:41 AM

[azian_advanced]

oo0oo this is gonna look sweeeet when it's done!

[lubu]

Cone bumper is on hold because the metal cutter is jammed, and I need to cut the crashbar by 1/3..

Anyways I started on the rear brake swap. Heres how I did it:

Took the wheel off...



Used a clamp to clamp the brake line before taking off the brake bolt.



To get the two bolts holding the capliper I used the HEX extension, its very hard to take the bolts off with a normal allen key (its size 14mm)



Its off, side by side with the ST205 capliper, suprisingly the stock capliper is heavier than the ST205... Took the disc off the ST205 assembly.



Slammed it on just to see how small our stock disc is.



The ST205 disc was scrapping the dustshield so I took a hammer and slammed it, only to relised that the whole thing needs to come off coz once I hammered it I cant align the caliper to the hole. The dustshield isnt welded all the way around (thank god ), it has interval welded-joints and that made the removal process so much easier, I used a flathead screwdriver and hammer to dislocate the weld-joints. A 5 minutes job. I used a metal cutter to cut the remaining of the joints.





Everything is on, now I need to fix the offset. I'll probably use spacer(s) to align the caliper to the middle.



To be continued...

This post has been edited by lubu: Jul 21, 2008 - 10:54 AM

[GTSOwner]

Wait a minute... are you telling me that those calipers fit "right on" (assuming you are using caliper spacers)!??!?!

[lubu]

Wait a minute... are you telling me that those calipers fit "right on" (assuming you are using caliper spacers)!??!?!

Yup the distance between the mounting holes are the same.

[GTSOwner]

And this is not a popular brake swap becauusssee?!?!?! Why bother with 7th gens when the 2-pot GT-4 ones fit?

[lagos]

And this is not a popular brake swap becauusssee?!?!?! Why bother with 7th gens when the 2-pot GT-4 ones fit?

They might fit the rear, but not the front. Not to mention they are VERY difficult to find.

[Batman722]

so st205 rears bolt right up basicly, interesting...

I bit of overkill if you ask me though. Your front are going to look tiny compared to the rear now

[lubu]

so st205 rears bolt right up basicly, interesting...

I bit of overkill if you ask me though. Your front are going to look tiny compared to the rear now

Dont worry Batman, the fronts are next.

[97lestyousay]

I forgot you have the original one of a kind with the chamfered slots.
Looks like you are making good progress.

This post has been edited by 97lestyousay: Jul 21, 2008 - 6:56 PM

[lubu]

Had a bit of time today so I decided to finish off the conversion...

To position the caliper so that the disc is aligned to the center of the caliper I used bolt spacers, like these:



These spacers work like a champ, they snuggly fit into place and I gotta say they fit in perfectly, perfectly. I used three spacers for each of them. (three spacers made of a thickness of abt 5.5mm)



Tighten everything, everything is solid. I placed the wheel in and.. ...the wheel didnt clear the caliper.
I remembered I bought a set (4) spacers a year ago but didnt use them coz they are 114mm instead of 100mm...obviously they wouldnt fit, soI cut them.

into little pieces...



Not so bad...placed the wheel on. woOOlaaa...perfectly..just clear the caliper.!!
Tested and working.
And here is a video clip showing that the wheel spins freely.
Note: the scrapping sounds is due to the rust formed rubbing against the pad. nothing major, should disappear after a good drive.

and that concludes the "Rear ST205 brake swap".

(Ill get a proper wheel spacer set on eBay but for now its aint too bad)
A pic of whats coming...



edit: added more info.

This post has been edited by lubu: Jul 22, 2008 - 12:36 PM

[GTSOwner]

How thick are your spacers and what are the specs of the wheels you are running? (diameter, width, offset)

[lubu]

How thick are your spacers and what are the specs of the wheels you are running? (diameter, width, offset)

The bolt spacers is 5.5mm for all three, the wheel sapcer is 10mm. As for the wheel, mine is probably the worse of all, they have concave spokes making it hard to clear to calipers (the front ones will be worse since the caps are bigger). I dont remember all the specs but they are 17 inch, offset is 40 I think.

[lubu]

Today I made a start on the ST205 front brakes swap. Didnt do that much coz the rotors arent trimmed to size but here is the progress so far...

Wheels are off. Brake lines were hold to stop fluid from dripping..



17mm wrench were used to take out those two monster bolts. They were abit hard to take out as the space were limited but with alot of swearings and fugly facial expressions I got them out. :mrgreen:
Here are two caps side by side for comparison.



The ST205 front caplipers has no thread in the mounting holes, nuts will have to be used.
One of my buddy will take care the trimming so its all good

WIll update as soon as the rotors are back.

[GTSOwner]

Those calipers are just SICK.

[playr158]

I wouldn't suggest using a nut.

I would use a tap and thread the GT4 calipers so that they function like the ones you took off.
much safer and a cleaner install.

great job so far

[DEATH]

I wouldn't suggest using a nut.

I would use a tap and thread the GT4 calipers so that they function like the ones you took off.
much safer and a cleaner install.

great job so far

x2 - I'd like to make you some proper spacers for those back calipers if you'd let me [postage shouldn't be much?]. I can make them out of 4340 steel or possibly some stainless if I have the right size material left laying around here from one of our SS jobs. All I'd need are the dimensions of the set of washers you currently have installed [just 3 - ID, OD, and length is all I'd need]. Metric will be fine if that's what you're used to. I can also make a dimensional drawing for your use and so others can easily follow your footsteps. It would be my pleasure to contribute to the advancement of FWD Celica's.
It would benefit me too as seeing Darth Ripley's install first hand has convinced me of the power they are capable of - I'll be doing this sometime in the next year as well.

Nice job so far and an impressive set of updates/modifications/swaps. What happened with the engine swap? Saving that for last or changed your mind?

[lubu]

I wouldn't suggest using a nut.

I would use a tap and thread the GT4 calipers so that they function like the ones you took off.
much safer and a cleaner install.

great job so far

x2 - I'd like to make you some proper spacers for those back calipers if you'd let me [postage shouldn't be much?]. I can make them out of 4340 steel or possibly some stainless if I have the right size material left laying around here from one of our SS jobs. All I'd need are the dimensions of the set of washers you currently have installed [just 3 - ID, OD, and length is all I'd need]. Metric will be fine if that's what you're used to. I can also make a dimensional drawing for your use and so others can easily follow your footsteps. It would be my pleasure to contribute to the advancement of FWD Celica's.
It would benefit me too as seeing Darth Ripley's install first hand has convinced me of the power they are capable of - I'll be doing this sometime in the next year as well.

Nice job so far and an impressive set of updates/modifications/swaps. What happened with the engine swap? Saving that for last or changed your mind?

Ill have a go at that route playr.

Thanks Death, Ill PM you the dimensions a little later. As for the engine swap we got it this far...



But unfortunately the engine isnt running as it should, strange/weird knocking sounds coming from the long block. Im empty handed atm so Illl have to chuck another 5sfe in there, lay low and wait for another day.

[DEATH]

Oh wow - so much work to undo. I have some spare rods and used but good shape pistons [.030 over bored] if you get it open and need some cheap fix LMK. As always I feel you should take these opportunities to upgrade but it would be a shame to let a few $$$ force you to reverse the swap work. If my parts can help LMK.
Hella progress tho man - keep it up

[lubu]

Oh wow - so much work to undo. I have some spare rods and used but good shape pistons [.030 over bored] if you get it open and need some cheap fix LMK. As always I feel you should take these opportunities to upgrade but it would be a shame to let a few $$$ force you to reverse the swap work. If my parts can help LMK.
Hella progress tho man - keep it up

Thanks for the offer DEATH, I guess the real reason for me not to go with the swap is because next yr Ill go off to mine sites for two years to finish my degree and I cant take my car with mem:(. When Im back Ill do the 4th gen caldina conversion and AWD conversion . This is one car that Ill not sell.

[lubu]

Bought a new Angle Grinder today...
Glove, safety glass, earmuff...and its cut away...




...done.



But Im having problem with the sides, I cant get the sides to fit properly. It looks like its going to give in but its not, and Im dont wanna use too much force...




Should I just push it a little more or is there a proper way of doing this??

[azian_advanced]

hey man how is the front brake swap going?


i was doing a little research and found out how some guys from a russian forum did a st205 brake swap on a caldina. they used custom caliper brackets to provide the proper offset and accomodate the caliper for the larger st205 brake rotors.









more info here
>click on "Firms & Styling"
>look for "фотоотчет об установке 205-х тормозов на Gt-t" as the topic title

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Aug 4, 2008 - 3:07 PM

[lubu]

I was going to do just that, but I decided against it because:
a.You will need to cut the mounting holes (areas) completely off as shown in the pic above, other wise the difference is too small to make a bracket.
b.You will not lose much (if any) surface contact even if you trim the rotor down to 297mm.

Heres why:




The outer circle is of course the original 315mm rotor and the inner circle is the 297mm trimmed rotor.
Now the surface contact between the pads and the rotor is in red, even if you extend the diameter and use the bigger rotor the surface contact will pretty much remains the same.

...and there is an advantage to the trimmed rotor, it weights less

let me know if my logic is wrong.

[stetsonaw]

isn't that a bad idea cutting the crash bar?

[lubu]

Here is the rest of the ST25 front brake conversion.

I could have trimmed to the rotor to 300mm but I went with 297mm and you will see why later.
Trimmed and resurfaced, just like new.



Ive heard that for the ST185 conversion the rotor hits the lower balljoint so 4mm spacer is needed but...lucky for us, it clears the lower balljoint by a few mm.



The OEM bolt is too short now so I went and buy 4 new nuts (with nylon tips) and bolts, it really doesn matter how long they are just make sure that they cover everything and you are good to go. The only thing that you need to be aware of is the threading of the nut, be sure to buy smaller thread mine is 1mm, so that the nut doesnt vibrate and lose-off. The capliper now mounts the opposite way meaning that it goes behind the mounts on the knuckle and the mounting procedures becomes extremly difficult. Because first irst you'll have to put the rotor on and then the capliper goes on, and by now there is really no way to slide the nut in from the front, you could go and slide it in from the back to make thing easier but you cannot hook the nut into place due to the tight space. (if you thread the mounting holes on the steering knuckle then everything will be easier)
I had to chopped mine off abit so I can manneuver them later.


So the capliper went on and we can see that there is a slight offset, I needed to bring the capliper out by a few mm, the offset is actually worst than whats showing in the pics.


I had no choice but to grind down the capliper mounts...this is the most time consuming part because at the start I dont really know how much I should grind, so I started grinding mm by mm and test it after every mm so see if it centered and from 16.5mm down to.....10mm..YUP you got that right a whole 6.5mm off.


At this point its about 6pm and I started at 3pm, 3 hours of pure back-bending, stomach aching and god knows how many times I swear...LOL but the show must goes on so now I need to reassemble everything. To do this I let the rotor lose and pulled it out all the way to just before it drops off, now I put two pre-cut bolts into place but didnt let them protrude to the other side just level with the other side will do. Next I slided the capliper, carefully to the rotor and positioned so the mounting hole lined up. Next I used a flathead screw driver to push them out to the other side.


There is another way of doing it, you will need to part the caliper into two halves then bolt on side to the knuckle then slide the rotor in and bolt the other side on.
If you did everything right the rotor whould align itself to the center of the cap, just a matter of bolting the nuts tightly into place. I used two wrenchs, one for the nut and the other to keep the bolt from rotating.
...and here it is, yes I do need some new brakelines. Bleed the brake and there you have it, the ST205 brake conversion.



Just a quick note on azian_advanced's post, as you can see the contact between the pads and the rotor is excellent, all of the area on the pads are contacting the rotor so dont worry abt sacrifying that 18mm (its actually 9mm but it counts as 18mm when you measure it as diamter's)





NOTE: Im dead tired so if any of the above is not clear let me know and Ill try again.

This post has been edited by lubu: Aug 9, 2008 - 9:54 AM

[azian_advanced]

good post... i understood pretty much everything you wrote. what you did is the best way to go about it. threading the knuckle and getting bolts with threading that go all the way up to the head of the bolt would be something i would do if i were to do this brake conversion so that the knuckle and caliper are more secure.

if, and only if, you had kept the original diameter of the rotors and extended the caliper with a bracket (or whatnot), and although the contact surface of the brake pad to the rotor remains the same, you gain brake force due to increased leverage (but gain in rotational mass from the larger rotors). but certainly that would be the more difficult way to do this conversion.



so basically, the minimum steps are:
-get new caliper bolts and nuts to mount the caliper to the back of the knuckle (get ones with more threads so the nut is less likely to loosen itself)
-trim the rotor from 315mm to 297mm (might as well get them resurfaced if you get used ones)
-grind the inside of the caliper mounting locations from 16.5mm to 10mm
-get st205 brake lines (might as well get braided ones) and bleed the system


doesn't seem so bad. i might even try this some day..

[lubu]

Im looking to buy one of this set..Can someone tell the the model of these, all I know is that they are racing hart's.

[lubu]

good post... i understood pretty much everything you wrote. what you did is the best way to go about it. threading the knuckle and getting bolts with threading that go all the way up to the head of the bolt would be something i would do if i were to do this brake conversion so that the knuckle and caliper are more secure.

if, and only if, you had kept the original diameter of the rotors and extended the caliper with a bracket (or whatnot), and although the contact surface of the brake pad to the rotor remains the same, you gain brake force due to increased leverage (but gain in rotational mass from the larger rotors). but certainly that would be the more difficult way to do this conversion.



so basically, the minimum steps are:
-get new caliper bolts and nuts to mount the caliper to the back of the knuckle (get ones with more threads so the nut is less likely to loosen itself)
-trim the rotor from 315mm to 297mm (might as well get them resurfaced if you get used ones)
-grind the inside of the caliper mounting locations from 16.5mm to 10mm
-get st205 brake lines (might as well get braided ones) and bleed the system


doesn't seem so bad. i might even try this some day..

To sum everything up.
For the rears:
Pretty much bolt-on except the 5.5mm spacers for the caplipers.

For the fronts [quote from az_ad]:
so basically, the minimum steps are:
-get new caliper bolts and nuts to mount the caliper to the back of the knuckle (get ones with more threads so the nut is less likely to loosen itself)
-trim the rotor from 315mm to 297mm (might as well get them resurfaced if you get used ones) + you can probably trim them down to 300mm if you wish.
-grind the inside of the caliper mounting locations from 16.5mm to 10mm
-get st205 brake lines (might as well get braided ones) and bleed the system

One more thing and this is the most expensive of all, you might (most probably) have to get a new set of rims as the old ones wont clear the caplipers.

[Batman722]

amazing stuff

FYI if you just get some spacers (15-20mm) you should be able to clear the calipers with your rims.

[lubu]

I need new brakelines and ATM I cant afford any decent ones as they cost a fortune and no point buying crap ones. The good thing is when you get ur ST205 brakes chances are you will also get the brakelines as well, if you do then you will find that with little mods you can make them to work on ur ST204

I tested the connection between the hardline and the brakeline and they are perfect fit, which is a good start and here are two brakelines side by side, the shorter is of course the ST204's. You will need to cut the brackets off as the mountings are completely different between the two. For me I used an angle grinder for the job, gloves, safety galsses and earmuffs are a-must.




After some cutting and grinding you should have something that look like this, remember not to cut or grind into the rubber line or you're going to have problems later. You'll then need to round the hexagon heads and make a smaller grove so that the holding clip can slide across like the ST204's, so they can fit through the mounting plate.



Another 15 mins...



to be cont....

[lubu]

Here is the rest of the brakelines conversion. Ill let the pics speak for themselves.



It will have to be like that for now.....

[DEATH]

Damn nice work! Rear spacers are finally on their way [$47 later - that's just redicualous for a 1lb package IMO]!
Anybody else wants to do this I can post up the drawing I made for the spacers and/or I can make the spacers for you - just allow me a week or two to get them done and shipped.
Badass Lubu - I will def be tackling this with your info in the very near future [Gotta get the $$$ up and order me some parts]

[97Celica]

If the bumper is still giving you a hard time... heat gun!

[lubu]

$20aud bucks and 30 mins to spare most of you guys know how to do this, so again Ill let the pics speak for themselves.







I couldnt be bothered so I sticked it between the adjustable spanner and yanked them out..



Taaadaaaa.....

[DEATH]

Nice - she's coming along well. No spacers yet? They are taking twice as long as anything else I shipped but of course they have alot farther to go LMK when they get there and what you think of them.

[lubu]

Nice - she's coming along well. No spacers yet? They are taking twice as long as anything else I shipped but of course they have alot farther to go LMK when they get there and what you think of them.

Will do bro.

[lubu]

A small update as Ive just received the spacers from DEATH, Im very impressed with the quality and dimensions of his work.





If anyones doing the conversion and wishes a set for their rear caplipers I suggest contacting DEATH, his work is top notch

[DEATH]

Sweet!!! They look like the were a perfect match up and you didn't need the shim kit I included. That paint should outlast the metal around it I'm told but you can LMK about that a few years down the road. I roughed up the spacers just enough for the stuff to take root so you shouldn't have any chipping or anything. The material is e4340 so plenty strong enough for this application.
So the full brake conversion is finished then right? Guess I better start gathering parts for my own

This post has been edited by DEATH: Aug 26, 2008 - 9:54 AM

[VinT]

please update pictures in 2nd page (brakes install)
p.s.
what is the thickness of blue spacers?

This post has been edited by VinT: Jun 6, 2010 - 7:02 AM

[Demios]

I was going to do just that, but I decided against it because:
a.You will need to cut the mounting holes (areas) completely off as shown in the pic above, other wise the difference is too small to make a bracket.
b.You will not lose much (if any) surface contact even if you trim the rotor down to 297mm.

Heres why:




The outer circle is of course the original 315mm rotor and the inner circle is the 297mm trimmed rotor.
Now the surface contact between the pads and the rotor is in red, even if you extend the diameter and use the bigger rotor the surface contact will pretty much remains the same.

...and there is an advantage to the trimmed rotor, it weights less

let me know if my logic is wrong.

Yes it is.
The more stopping power is not given by the surface contact (the resistence will be preety much the same if you have 1mq or 1cmq in contact), its given by resistence x half diameter. If you have the same caliper, with the same pads and different rotors the more powerful one will be the one that byte the rotor farther for thehub centre.

So, using bigger rotors with the same brakets is useless, but making a braket that make you use the full potential of a bigger rotor with the same caliper is the better option, giving the better result.