ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four Options

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

hey as title says im a noob to this forum (well i signed up years ago but was too lazy to post)

ive had a few celicas, and i dont reckon ill stop there. (ST185 RC, Series 6 13b turbo RA23, widebody ST185R and the 205) currently also have a TA63 GT-TR celica as a daily.

since there is no members ride thread section i could see in a quick view i thought ide post up what ive done to my bus.
Ive had it for about 2.5 years, done all the work myself, including all fabrications, rebuild etc) umm thats about all i can think to add atm, if you have any questions feel free to post up, im open 2 all opinions

Ride:
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four, ST205 Group A Rallye #61

Built not bought


Donk:
Gen 3 3sgte.

600x300 hybrid front mount with custom (2" stainless and 2.5" ally piping)

Turbosmart supersonic BOV
Turbosmart Ultragate external wastegate with screamer pipe

6boost exhaust manifold ceramic coated
Garrett GT3082 turbo (.64 rear, .7 front)
speedflow turbo fittings
stainless braided turbo oil feed

Custom side feed inlet manifold with velocity stack runners
Modified 2zz-ge throttle body
Custom Billet aluminium oversize idler pulley
Custom aluminium oil catch can
Custom silver steel slave cylinder pushrod
Custom carbon fibre airbox
Cutsom carbon fibre CAI scoop
Custom Bronze impregnated teflon shifter bush
Custom twin pod 4\\\" intake pipe

3" m/s and stainless mandrel bent zaust, heat wrapped dump pipe, Apexi megaphone dunk 7" cannon with 4"dump tip

TRD low temp racing thermostat,
TRD high preasure radiator cap
TRD oil cap
TRD engine mounts
TRD oil filter

ARP rod bolts
ARP head studs
ARP main bolts

NPC 5 puck brass button clutch and uprated preasure plate, (good for 350kw atw)
Reco'd clutch slave and master cylinders
Stainless braided clutch line
Redline supershock proof lightweight gear oil
Stainless braided gearbox oil cooler lines
relocated geatbox oil cooler
C-One sports diff mount

New OE idler and tentioner bearings
New OE valve spring retainers
New OE valve stem seals
New OE head gasket (steel)
New OE gaskets and belts
New OE rear main seal
New OE water pump
New OE clutch fork
New OE throwout bearing
New OE oil pump
New OE flywheel bolts
New OE preasure plate bolts

NGK Super Silicone plug leads

GReddy timing belt
GReddy Profec B Spec II electronic boost controller

Apexi Power FC Pro
Apexi Pod x2

HKS adjustable cam gears
HKS 264 deg cams
HKS valve springs
HKS Twin Power CDI ignition

Walbro 550hp fuel pump

Sard DRR fuel preasure regulator and adapter
Sard fpr guage
Sard 800cc injectors

ACL Race Series pistons
ACL Race Series rings
ACL Race Series engine bearings
ACL Alu glide little end bearings

deburred, balanced & blue printed
shot peened rods and crank
recut valve seats (3 angle stainless steel valves from the factory)
combustion chambers cleaned up and deburred.
acid dipped block
heat proof painted exhaust manifold and turbine housing
red rocker cover
stainless cap screws
Removed EGR valve
Removed purge tank
Davis Craig thermo fan
Samco blue silicone hose.
Extra engine earths



Outer:
JDM tinted tail lights
clear side repeaters
clear (and inner tinted) front indicators
semi debadged
lipped guards
dark tinted windows
Slimline and offset number plate :lolhit:
Projector headlights
Narva 100mm fog lights
Apex cone HID\\\'s 6000k
LED parkers
"Mook" "GT-Four" spoiler raiser block infills



Inner:
Momo steerer
TRD type 2 gearknob
turbo timer
Autometer phantom II boost guage
Autometer phantom II Oil preasure guage
White face dials by "mook"
Leather recovered centre console and gearshift boot



Stezza n other:
Pioneer mp3 head unit
Pioneer 4 channel amp (splits)
Pioneer 2 channel amp (sub)
JL Audio 6.5" front splits
JL Audio 6" rear splits
JL Audio 10" dvc sub
Pivot voltage stabaliser
Stinger ground loop isolater x2
Odyssey dry cell battery (under drivers seat)
2 way pageing alarm
LED interior lights
LED electric window control light
LED indicators
LED heater control lights
LED dash lights




Suspension and stoppers:
Tein 1 1/2 drop 4.5kg/3.7kg spring rate spring
KYB super special adjustable shocks
Slotted rotors all round
Project Mu B spec pads
Cusco adjustable pillow ball strut tops
Cusco 4 point chassis brace
Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar
Racing Beat adjustable end links.
New fig 8 joints
New leading and trailing control arms
Nolethane front sway bar bushes
Stainless braided brake lines
Motul DOT 5.1 fluid
Rice red and clear coated brake calipers :lolhit: [/size]



Wheels:
Momo m1 18x8.5\\\"
stock ST205 16" 3 spokers (for racing)





Future Plans:
replace all bushes
TRD corners
TRD side skirts
Custom or aftermarket front strut brace
ally radiator and aftermarket oil cooler
and more:


thanks to:
Don (aka dons bodyworks) for the continuous use of the hoist/pit, and painting.
Tangcla for the continuing seach for parts
ART in melbourne for the tune

At the time of writing its making 265 kw atw on 22psi, with the radiator sturggling with engine temps. Best from the stock turbowas 204 kw atw.
best 1/4 mile was 12.8 @ 108 mph (stock turbo, 200kw atw)






















Hot Rod :lolhit:


Good head.


If you squint you can read HKS 3SG








This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Aug 13, 2009 - 2:09 AM

[Athorn]

That is a sick car.

[Stogbob]

^^^^
x2 I love those rims they look awesome

[hongkongnerdboy]

my expression ----> o.O

This post has been edited by hongkongnerdboy: Feb 1, 2008 - 9:52 PM

[goferris]

beautiful!!
i would add a new strut bar to that bay. TRD perhaps?
:drooling:

This post has been edited by goferris: Feb 2, 2008 - 1:10 AM

[dtlwrc]

This is a sick,sick car! Man i love it!

[tomazws]

Simply amazing!

[Batman722]

beautiful car

impresssive.

[Hanyo]

wow. those rims go perfectly with your car. what size tires are you using?

And a very clean engine bay. Thanks for sharing.

[Insanity-74]

Nice car mate...bet that kicks some serious arse.

[presure2]

you had me at :
Ride:
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four, ST205 Group A Rallye #61


all the rest is just yummy goodness.
one hell of a ride.

[ScoobyDooCruiser]

I want your car!

Looks aweome. I bet thats totally a kick to drive. Awesome Work. You got any highres photos I could use for desktop?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

thats for all of your replies and comments folks.

the wheels and tyres are: Momo m1, 18x8.5", tyres are maxis 225x40, im seriously considering selling these for some works, or volks etc.

should be some high res pics in my profile thingo, feel free to leach all my pics .

Yep its pretty good to drive, its very smooth and linnear in the power delivery. Will be better when i finish the turbo upgrade and get the snap into boost that we all love:D

im let to loose a race in it, street or strip.

[DEATH]

Clean and beautiful. I so love seeing a clean stock [or OEM only] exterior with muscle under the hood. The Group A Rallye - IDK speechless. Well thought out mods too.
cough* Featured Ride *cough

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

hey guys. Just thought ide give a little update.






This is my new suspension as of a couple of months ago. KYB Super Special for Street adjustable shocks, with my ultra low kings streched 12mm, new bump stops, Cuscp pillow ball adjustable strut tops, Cusco 4 point underbody brace.

The reason i didnt get coil overs are unless your driving a pure track car they arnt worth it, your on road driveablility goes to sh!t with springs that are way to stiff and stuff all suspension travel, especially if your buying the el cheapo d2/g4 coil overs. Tiens are worth 3k + for a 205, and im of the opinion its not worth it, coilovers are just a matched spring and shock combination with height and dampening adjustment. I dont want to change my height, and its your shock adjustment is what changes handling. Thats just my opinion and some people no doubt dont agree.

The ride now, fncken awsome, its so much better now, i didnt think it could improve much, but man its sick.






Ok this is the new project while im saving for a turbo/manifold/external gate upgrade.

this is the start of a new pleum, velocity stack runners (for better off boost performance and driveablility) 2zz throttle body (8mm bigger then the 205 unit). Its going to be side feed and around 2.5 litres capacity....should be the balls.



This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Sep 24, 2008 - 6:14 AM

[zero07]

Your cars just sick! Thanks for the update, the super specials, were they expensive and is the last pic of your car with your new suspension installed?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

if your talking about the last pic with the brake rotor in it then yep thats as i was installing the rears.

if your talking about the pic with the white group A 185 and my 205 Group A then also yes this is post suspension upgrade pic.

and were they expensive???.....ohh yes, to my door in usd they were around $1700 for all 4 shocks, no springs, no bump stops just the struts.

i could have bought inserts for the stock struts but im not into that, in my opinion your better off gettin all new units with warrenty etc insted of getting your old ones out and having to machine the crimped bit out etc.

[Rusty]

wow ITB on a turbo car, a bit different, but can I ask why a 2ZZ TB and not a red/black BEAMS TB?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

its not going to be itb but it shall have the velocity stacks in pic.
2zz because its bigger.

[Rusty]

ok
wow I didn't know that

[reko]

post pis of this when you'll get it installe

[RickJamesBish]

That pic of yours next to that 7th gen is pretty damn awesome. Shows how much sicker our cars are than the later generation.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

went to the drags today, new pb of 12.8 @ 108 mph
the stock ct20b is a massive bottleneck in the system and is holding me back big time. But im proud of it, who would of thought a little steel wheel bush bearing 170 000km old snail could do this.

after ive finished the mani ill put it back on the rollers and maybe down the drags again see if i can crack 215kw atw and a 12.7

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Oct 14, 2008 - 5:10 AM

[parriehunter]

Thats pretty sweet.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ok update time, plenum is getting fully welded monday or tuesday, im really happy with the design, i think it will be the balls.

Ok I suspect some of you out there would be thinking, yeah 2zz throttle body would be a cool mod. Well before you go having a crack at it i thought ide do a little write up on whats needed to modify a 2zz tb for a gtfour.





ill go by numbers:

1. Cut off and weld a plate over what was the pcv (positive crank ventilation) nipple.

2. Spacer for the plate that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable.

3. Plate to hold the tps (because 2zz uses a 3 pin tps and 3sg uses 4)

4. New closed throttle stop, (reasons explained next)\

5. New open throttle stop

6. Plate that converts the outer sheath holding bracket to the pcd (pitch circle diameter, meaning the distance straight across from the centre of one hole to the other) of the 2zz tb.

7. Bracket that the cable runs around (dont know the proper name)

8. Close throttle stop again

9. Bracket for holding the springs (for spring return closed obviously)


Ok so here we go.

First task was to make a plate to hold the 205 tps (could of used the 2zz one, and added a limit switch for the closed earth loop, but would have encountered the same problems later).
Problem being that the actuation of the 2zz and 3sg tps is heaps different, 2zz uses a blade type about 12mm long and 3sg uses pins about 25mm appart. So i had to come up with a way of converting the blade to the spaced pins.

So having that sorted i needed to mount the 3sg tps somehow. The pcd of the 2zz throttle body is about 5mm smaller then the 3sg one, coupled with the fact i needed to space the 3sg tps at least 6mm from the tb to allow enough space for the actuation adapter i decided to make a piece out of 3mm ally.
So simply used a hole saw and a file to get the ID (internal diameter) i needed, drill 2 holes to mount the plate to the tb. Then drill and tap new holes in it for the holding screws for the 3sg sensor (keeping in mind the 3sg tps needs some adjustment so the sensor reads closed when it should (2zz tb isnt adjustable).

Then i needed to space it another 3mm, so made some banana shaped ally bits to space it out further and to hold it central to the tb shaft. With all this done i thought brilliant done. Not so, problem being the 2zz tb rotates (when opening) anti clockwise and 3sg goes clockwise. So naturall it wouldnt turn.
Bummer i thought, ill have to make it rotate the right way, meaning i needed to pull the butterfly out of the tb and spin it around so it will allow clockwise rotation. Naturally the screws that hold the butterfly in are tight as all hell, meaning i stripped the heads. So then i had to drill the heads off. And when i did that i went a bit offline and stuffed some of the thread in the shaft. So then i had tp pull the shaft out and weld the threads up so i could drill and tap new holes.

Naturally when you weld something like this it bends, so then i had to straighten the shaft and drill and tap the new holes. With that done and me gettin over this whole tb fiasco i put it all back togther, then because it now rotates the other way i couldnt use the 2zz thottle cable holder and spring assembly.

So i got the one off the 3sg tb, But then the open and closed stops didnt work, So i had to drill and tap a hole into one of the cast brackets on the tb for the adjustable closed stop, and weld a small piece of flat plate to the 3sg spring assembly.

With that done it was down to the open stop and the bracket for holding the springs. That wasnt too bad, bent peice of stainless with a "V" cut in it for the springs to hook into.

The open stop is a piece of 3mm m/s welded to the spring assembly bracket, and the actual stop rests up against the s/s capscrew that holds the spring bracket. I simply filed it down till it stopped when the throttle is completly open.

Then it was left to make the bracket to hold the bracket that holds the outer sheath of the throttle cable. After much thinking i came up with what you see, with a couple of ally spacers turned up it uses the bolts that hold the tb to the plate (which will be welded to the plenum) to hold the plate that holds the plate that holds the outer sheath....still following :lolhit:

After this was done it now became apparent that there wasnt enough adjustment on the outer sheath, i needed it further from the tb. As this would involde turning up another couple of spacers and me being lazy i dedided insted to rotate the cable holding half round brackety thing a bit anti clockwise. Doing this effectivally legnthned the distance from the sheath holder and where the end of the cable is.

I slotted the half hole that grips to the shaft out a bit so i could rotate it, then when i was happy i drilled and tapped a hole into the spring plate to as an additional way of holding the cable half moon plate thingy. (if i didnt do this the plate MAY have rotated a bit sometime when i was driving, if that happened the throttle would have only rotated to about 3/4.)

I did a bit of port matching on the plate that bolts to the tb (which will be welded to the plenum like i mention earlier), ill do some more later on when its welded to the plenum to give the air a smoother path into the plenum.

luckily the 2zz and 3sg use the same iscv (idle speed control valve), so i dont have to touch that.

so there you go, if your keen on putting in the hard yards then go for it. As for me..... never fncking doing it again.



EDIT.
todays efforts, new foggies (look awsome compared to the stock units, suit the headlights)

almost all of the cold pipe intercooler pipework is complete, just waiting for the plenum to be finished to finish it off.






This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Oct 30, 2008 - 11:28 PM

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

She's a big unit, thats roughly where it will be sitting, obviously not on a silly angle like that.






Ill get a better pic of the inside when i cut the throttle body hole out, that pic is taken through a 1/8th bspt hole in the small (number 1) end.



Next job is to make a jig to hold the plenum in the right spot for the welding of the runners, weld the runners on, weld the tb flange on and ill be back in town.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

couple of pics with many more to come soon from an ozcelica cruise on the weekend.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

It runs....it lives....kinda.

There is too much air getting in there on the current tune. It started first tickover, and proceeded to idle at 2500
Ill have to adjust it a bit to lower the idle, and richen it up slightly so it'll idle properly and not backfire.


Catch can is only there for the time being, i ran out of time this afternoon.

ill get some proper pics when i can be bothered....thanks for your time.

[hockeyplyr24]

your car is sick. i like where your going with everything!!

[twolownissan2002]

Love the new fog light they really look good with the head lights!! And as for the rest of the work words cant be said to explain it beautiful lol

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

It is complete

[Batman722]

^^ damn.

[C3L1CA]

Thats a really sweet build.

I'd be kind of scared with all those welds on the intake manifold cracking along some of those welds on high boost. What kind of boost are you planning on running or any power numbers as goals?

Amazing work again!

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ive pressure tested it to 35 psi, and ill only ever be running a max of 25 when i get a bigger turbo, on the stock one now im running 20.

[jcbass7]

nice car, very clean

one question, what is the gauge in the back corner of the engine bay?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

fuel pressure.

[95st-celica]

wanna sell your 20b to me and upgrade? i love this thread so far...awesome work and dedication...good luck with the rest of the build!

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

ha, yeah i need to upgrade pretty bad, its such a bottle neck now.

Nar i dont wanna sell it really, its been real good to me that little snail, exceeded all expectations.

After a couple of highway drives i now conclude its much meatier in the mid range with this new plenum, and more responsive, nothing was lost down low, and up top seems to have slightly more pull.

overall im fncken happy with it.....now to patent it

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Well well well.

Been a long time since ive done any sort of update.

Manifold parts have arrived and departed, twice now.
To fill you all in, kyle from 6boost (reputable race manifold maker from australia) sent me the merge collector and the headflange (which incidentally was to suit a gen2, he wasnt aware gen3 has a different pattern as all the 3s stuff he has done has been gen2, he mostly does 4a, 2 and 1jz, rb20,25,26,30, sr20 etc) So i then jigged up the manifold by bolting the headflange to the head, and making a frame to hold the turbo in position, then weld rods in between the head flange and the collector so its in the right position, then sent it back to him.

Then got it back, with it tacked togther (see pics) just making sure that it didnt move, plus i had to jig up the wastegate pipe (again see pic, infront of alternator), so with that tacked its being sent off tomorrow back to 6boost for final welding and hpc coating in black.

Turbo is a Garrett GT3082 rated at 600hp, has a .64 rear housing on it at the present, if it doesnt make enough power (ide like 300kw atw), then ill get a .76 or .82 and see how that goes.

The wastegate will of course have a screamer pipe, none of this plumb back nonsence here.

I have all the oil and water lines ready to go, have the stainless for the screamer and dump, all the flanges have been made (gate, etc) bought a bung to weld into the dump for a wideband o2 sensor.

Should have the whole setup back in a week or two, after that there will be another week or so for me 2 do the dump and intercooler piping, finish and fit the twin pod intake, need to remove the drivers side OE thermo fan and fit a 10" davis craig on the front of the rad leaving me with more room for snails.
Ive bought some of that ALC heat shielding that ill put inbetween the hot **** (gate, turbine housing, screamer) and the colder **** (rad, hoses, alternator etc) also need to make a new cf airbox, so that'l take some time also. So still a few things to do, but it'l be all sweet in a few weeks.






Not much else to report, got a wheel alignment today because ive had the suspension out to fit the new tien springs, And i must say the handling now is so much better then it used to be, smooth, grippy and no more springs bottoming out clunking when i went over the larger bumps. Sure its a little higher now but its well worth it for the gains.



New window tint going on tomorrow because mine is at least 4 years old (has been on it since i got it) and is looking a smidge worse for wear, tint is going a bit cloudy and purple, it'l be legal tint on the front two, and a few shades darker on the rears.

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: May 25, 2009 - 5:17 AM

[TRDGT4]

looking good mate

i'll be watching to see how you get on on the dyno as our cars are very similar and i like the new foggies too

if you are ever keen to sell those 18's let me know could be keen

well done

[delusionz]

does your ct20b have any shaft play?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

sure doesnt.

well it has the normal stuff all ammount for a bush bearing turbo, but other then that its micky mouse, which is rather supprising because ive ran it on 20 psi since ive had it (4 years) doesnt blow smoke or leak or anything...Loves it

got the manifold back from 6boost (well known Australian turbo manifold builder, guarentees his turbos for life and to make more power then any other manifold) today, she is all done now and man what a work of art, the man is a genuis. All the radius' are so smooth quality is second to none, the only thing im dissapointed with is i wanted black hpc coating not the wanky chrome one, but never mind, cbf changing that now.

pics are from the phone and poor quality but hopefull you can get the general gist of it all, im that frieken big kev'd about chucking it togther tomorrow. Progress pics will follow as they happen.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Well then i guess as im back i should tell the story of my eventful weekend in melb.

So was on my way to the dyno friday morning, turned off springvale road onto the freeway, following an old lancer doing about 2500 rpm, then as im on the onramp just about to merg the car cuts out, no ignition signal was getting to the tacho so i instantly knew it was dizzy or igniter related (or associated wiring). I rolled down a few hundred meters and pulled well off into the emergency stop lane.
Car cranked fine but no rpm signal.

So here i am in the middle of peak hour traffic, with a car that doesnt go on the side of the freeway...stoked.

Checked for any loose wiring, couldnt see any. So i called a couple of mates, they bought some tools down and also ump mans old 185. I tried the igniter off the 185 and that didnt fix it so by process of elimiation it had to be distributer related. So i pulled off the cap and as i did so it became apparent the rotor button free spins.

this was the cause.




Why this happened i have no idea, there is no load on the rotor button so there is no reason for it to break. Only things i can think of is something in the dizzy bound up and broke the teeth off they are only cintered metal, but still shouldnt break in a million years.

After saying many words that rhyme with fire truck and punt i decided the side of the road wasnt the best place to pull a rocker cover off and look for the pieces of dizzy. So called a towie and got a flat bed to the workshop, $80 it cost me which wasnt bad as it was about half an hour drive.

At the workshop the owner let me back the car into a corner and work on it myself, got the rocker cover off and found the first peice of dizzy easy, was sitting just under where the dizzy drive is on the cam. The other peice however was well on its way to the sump down one of the oil drains, maybe half way down. Managed to get it with a little magnet on a telascopic bit...that was an epic relief. Cleaned up the surface and chucked the rocker cover back on and let it settle.

So then we had to get another dizzy, called toyospares and they luckily had one in stock, so a mate took me the hour or so round trip to pay the $220 for a dizzy, sux the big floppy donky dick but had no choice, they had one...i needed it and they knew it :lolhit:

Back at the workshop chucked the dizzy in, checked the timing and it was all good. Drove around to the dyno room and started some serious business. By this time it was around 3:00. We noticed it was cutting out at around 6800 (well below 7300 redline) but still made 221 atw which was reasonable for 1 bar of boost. Ray (workshop owner) spent the best part of the next 4 hours fixing up the map that was in it, fixing idle and midrange etc. I did buy a 3 bar map sensor with the intention of chucking that in and running around 26 psi or so, but because of the dizzy issue there wasnt time)

So called it a night, i had a car cruise the next day, ray just said tell me how it drives where its flat, hunting etc and he'l play with the map on his lappy at home to fix any holes etc.

Monday came around and back at the workshop, this time got there without a hitch, straight on the dyno. I suggested trying the igniter off the supra that was in his workshop to see how that goes with the missing, as it tuned out my igniter was causing the missing up high, so the rest of the tuning was done with that igniter and ive sinced chucked in the spare i have.

Spend the whole day (ray managed to jiggle stuff around so he had time) tuning the mid/top end, i said cap the boost at around 20 and revs around stock redline (7200).

Stock radiator was very much in struggle town trying to keep the temps in check on the rollers, starting a run at around 85-90 would see around 105 deg c by the end of it (24 sec ramp). Ill be looking into an oil cooler very seriously too.
Injectors are now at 90% duty and we are at load point 20 (last point) on the map so untill i chuck the 3 bar in this is as much power as it shall make.

So with 265kw atw (around 360 hp at the wheels, which is around 400-420 at the engine) at 22 psi and 7250 im pretty happy (non shootout mode, long ramp) ill look into the rad and oil cooler, then sometime down the track ill think about going back to melbourne and chucking the 3bar map and some revs at it.

hot stuff







Some quick shots from a photoshoot me and tang did friday night. Album can be found here: http://www.tangcla.com/photos/celica_090807

[mmmchocolate]

is it just me or is that glowing red?!?!?!

[SwissFerdi]

Probably why it was labeled "hot stuff."

[mmmchocolate]

psh i dont read i look at pictures

[ST-Autosport]

very nice project.

i like the carbon fibre airbox too, looks good.

the adjustable shocks you are using , do they come with the SS design? or do you need to weld over the original SS arm on the bottom of the shocks?

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

No welding required, they are the full super street, im not keen on welding suspension components.

[ST-Autosport]

ok thank you very much

[sips]

No welding required, they are the full super street, im not keen on welding suspension components.

Super Street? Tein? I thought they were KYB? You mean Super Strut?

I think you did a marvelous job on this car. I wouldn't have thought those wheels would look as good as they do on the car. +1 for keeping everything clean.

I can't wait until my silver gt4 lands. I have found some inspiration in yours.

What did/do you think of the KYB super specials? I've had some coilovers (Tein, Silkroad, Cusco) on other cars and I've found them to be bouncy (overdamped), unconforatable and performance on the track/auto-x was poorer than an OEM Bilstein/spring combo.

The damper selection for ST205's is very poor, so I'd like to know what you think of the KYB's and what you are comparing them to?

[Quidam]

One of the cool things about being fairly new to a forum is finding all these amazing threads.

The dedication and work you have put into this car is amazing -pure awesomeness

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Yeah they are KYB super street adjustable shocks, im very very happy with them, (using tein springs that have been lowered extra, also very happy with them).

The wheels came with the car and i think they suit it very well so have had no need to change.

Glad i could be of inspiration to some people, i just do it as i see it, not modding in any particular direction or for any purpose.


I have cusco coil overs in my jzx100 chaser, the springs are uber stiff but its uncomfortable, im happy with them, the kyb/tein combo is slightly softer then the cuscos in the chaser (on the 3rd damper setting) good compromise between handling and comfort. I would recommend them.


Thanks for your kind words folks, I havnt finished with it in any way, looking for some recaro's at the moment as leather isnt the best for holding in a skinny short dude

[ST-Autosport]

do you have the part numbers for the kyb shocks? i can't find them on their website? maybe they're discontinued?

[sips]

I havnt finished with it in any way, looking for some recaro's at the moment as leather isnt the best for holding in a skinny short dude

I know how that feels. I had leather in my FD rx7 track car and I was always sliding around like a wet-and-wild. So to solve that problem I bought an RZ edition RX7 that came stock with Recaro Carbon/Kevlar 1 piece buckets.

[Rusty]

I've seen 2 recaro front seats for sale in NZ came off a SS-II

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

I have the part numbers somewhere, i'll see if i can dig them out.

Im after some aftermarket seats really, i dont mind the seats from the ss II and III and the stock gt4 recaros but something aftermarket would be nicer, newer styling and all.

[Rusty]

comes ST202 rails (ST205 and ST202 have different widths of rail)

thats them there

This post has been edited by Rusty: Dec 19, 2009 - 11:36 PM

[sips]

As I expected my ST205 struts are going.

Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.

[TEAMFaint]

As I expected my ST205 struts are going.

Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.

RHDJAPAN.com my friend. Or if you want some TEIN HA's I will have mine up for sale soonly, just way to stiff for me as my daily driver for in my town.

This post has been edited by TEAMFaint: Jul 14, 2010 - 12:54 PM

[sips]

^ I only see ST202 Super specials. I know both use a superstrut but I don't belive they are identical. I don't think you can use an ST202 Super special on an ST205.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

kyb translated page

enjoy obviously the super specials are the last collum and the 205 stuff is at the bottom

additionally ide love those recaros
SR2 or SR3 are prime.

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Jul 16, 2010 - 12:28 AM

[m4dm4n]

***droolzz*** Only 77 released in Oz. I hate you. Just a little. Kickarse ride BTW!!