The new 5sfte, UPDATE: engine has low compression... Options

[6strngs]

well, after tearing the car down basically and replacing a lot of things. coming inches from giving up, and then changing my mind, and problem after problem, I've got another problem. My turbo blew. Some say it was under-fed oil, others say it was over-fed. In any case, it doesn't work. Well, this is the second turbo to blow on this car... the first one had problems from day one, but was used with an oil restrictor the entire time it was on the car... it lasted not even a week. the second one lasted about 2 months, and blew on the first hard run that I did after installing the restrictor. I'm not saying that it caused it, though it does really look like that, but everyone else on this website is using a restrictor without problems and swears that they are necessary, so I will still be using one on my new turbo. which brings me to that, I'm getting a new turbo. This time, a Garrett T3/T4 hybrid. 46 trim, .63 A/R. should be good for a couple more horsies anyway here's a list of some parts that'll be going on hopefully next week:

Garrett T3/T4 turbo, 46 trim .63 A/R
Tial 38mm wastegate, .7 BAR spring (10.15 PSI)
Ebay CT-26 to T3 manifold adapter
Custom 3" downpipe
Custom 3" Aluminum intake (thanks to CaliJeff)
Greddy oil catch can (again, thanks to Jeff)
Battery relocation

all the flanges, gaskets, and oil lines will likely be coming from ATPturbo.com who are located about 30 miles west of me anyway, I'm going to try to take a bunch of pictures and document this as best as I can. I'm going to be trying to do this without removing the A/C like I believe Shannon did. so, it's gonna be a challenge. but I'll figure it out one way or another. Anyway, here's some pictures of what I have so far, the rest should come in next week:

CT26 to T3 adaptor:


Intake:


Catch can:


more to come soon.

This post has been edited by 6strngs: Apr 15, 2008 - 10:58 PM

[politicsareevil]

I know this sounds stupid... but what is a catch can and how does it work

[6strngs]

it goes in between your PCV and intake and basically just cleans all the oil vapors out of the air going to your intake.

[presure2]

hehe this is good stuff.
i know we've already covered some of this stuff, but ill add it in here for future searches.

i would start with a smaller 5.5psi spring for the Wg. ive seen dynos of 3s guys making ~270whp @~14-15psi, so 10 psi "should" be ok, but, i would definetly go on the lower side to start with, just to stay safe.
boost control is gonna be CRITICAL to this setup. one small mis-step above 10psi (your WG spring) and your motor will be toast.

you "can" fit the downpipe and WG dump tube in there with the AC.
things get a little hairy when you want to locate the oil filter relocation on the passanger side frame rail.
the lines and all that stuff start getting close to the belt and stuff, and for shannons car, it was best to just remove it.
they arnt mechanicly inclined enough to keep a close eye on that, so for reliability concerns, we removed it, so that they wouldnt have to worry about it failing on them down the road.
couple notes about that adapter:
use factory hardware on the manifold side, it will give you more clearance to tighten the nuts.
be sure to check all those bolts after the first couple heat cycles.
ATP makes some really nice Vband flange adapters for t3 outlets. ill tell ya, i swear vbands are the BEST.
makes installation and removal a snap.
an extra expense, no doubt, but worth it IMO.
now, 2 questions.
how many miles on the motor?
have you done a compression test lately?

i cant wait to see you get this up and running.
hopfully youll have better luck with it than what you did with the ct-26 based setups.

[politicsareevil]

it goes in between your PCV and intake and basically just cleans all the oil vapors out of the air going to your intake.

oh. thats tight. Lookin good btw hope to see good numbers when you are finished.

[jcaron9gt4]

how close is that adaptor going to make the new turbo come to your radiator? Correct me if im wrong but don't you have a Koyo radiator which is a bit wider? Looks good though!! it will be interesting to see how much more power you'll be putting down.

[CaliJeff]

let me kno when u need help on the install

[6strngs]

how many miles on the motor? ha ha. just rolled over 160K the other day gotta love toyota.

never done a compression test. perhaps I'll borrow my friends compression tester before I put all this stuff on.

HAD a koyo radiator. I acutally ended up trimming part of the fan shroud support things just to fit the CT26! I swapped back over to a stock radiator and now it fits in, but barely. I imagine either needing to cut away part of the fan shroud again, putting the fan on the other side of the radiator and have it push and rather than pull, like on malpaso's 7afte, but I don't know if it'll fit between the radiator and AC condensor. the other option is to get a super slim SPAL fan like what mr2 guys use. but that costs money so that's gonna be the last resort.

[lagos]

I really wish those manifold adapters copied KO racings wg placement so that you didnt have to do a oil filter relocation.

[presure2]

I really wish those manifold adapters copied KO racings wg placement so that you didnt have to do a oil filter relocation.

agreed, the ATS one is nicer, but its 175$

[6strngs]

I really wish those manifold adapters copied KO racings wg placement so that you didnt have to do a oil filter relocation.

agreed, the ATS one is nicer, but its 175$

doesn't the ATS adaptor put it in the same spot as the ebay one?

[presure2]

I really wish those manifold adapters copied KO racings wg placement so that you didnt have to do a oil filter relocation.

agreed, the ATS one is nicer, but its 175$

doesn't the ATS adaptor put it in the same spot as the ebay one?

IIRC the ATS adapter points the WG out the front.

[6strngs]

dang it... you're right. it does put it in front. but it costs about $100 more, and it just has a hole for a wastegate and you have to weld your own flange on. but crap, it wou be much simpler and easier if it was in front. well, if the oil filter relocation gets too tight without removing the AC, maybe I'll spend the extra for it.

[6strngs]

crappy "in-progress" pic. it was too dark to get any good pictures. but anyway, relocated the battery today! I spent a lot more than I expected to on it though. I could've gotten wire for like $.99 a foot at a hardware store, but their wire basically had like 7 or 8 really thick strands of wire in it, then I went to an automotive store, and paid like $3 a foot for wire that had a ton of itty bitty strands of wire, like every other wire on the car. got 15 feet of it and it was just enough. I had maybe an extra 6 inches to spare. lol. I routed through the interior of the car, rather than under it as some have done. The hardest part was securing the battery. I finally figured out a way to though. I used the OEM battery tie downs and got them in in such a way that that battery isn't going anywhere! this is just temporary though until I can afford one of those fancy optima battery trays/boxes on ebay. but it won't be going anywhere. I took a couple hard corners just to be sure... it didn't budge at all

tomorrow I might try to fit the intake and catch can in. I'm not really sure where I'm gonna mount the catch can. I was gonna put it where Jeff had his, but my intercooler piping is routed differently then his and it's in the way, so I'll have to think of something else.

[6strngs]

installed the intake to see if it'd fit, it does, but barely. also installed the oil catch can, but it's not really in a permanent resting location. it's zip tied in place for now, so it's not going anywhere, but for now I'm gonna wait until I have the new turbo in before securing it anywhere because it may or may not need a different location when the new turbo goes in.

pics to come when it's light outside. I'm having a totally unrelated issue now though. my shifter is popping out of the shift cable. I know there was a clip that was supposed to go on to keep it from doing that, and I can't remember why I didn't put it back on. I either lost it or broke it. I was planning on getting a new one, but since it worked without issue I kinda just put it at the back of my mind. and it worked for months. then about a month or so ago it popped out. I thought I blew the transmission or something, lol. but when I realized I was still in 2nd gear, I was able to "limp" home and get it back in. I guess I should have taken the hint then and started searching for one. but I'm just stupid I guess. anyway, it popped out again today. I popped it back in, and decided to start searching for one after school tonight. and then it popped out again just as I was getting to school! I popped it back in and made it home with only shifting 3 times! (2nd gear got me to the freeway, then 5th on the freeway, then back to 2nd to get me home) now I'm determined to find some way to fix it. I'm thinking of taking a bunch of rubber bands and just wrapping it around it a bunch of times to keep it in place until I can find a clip... we'll see though.

[6strngs]

well, this came in like 2 days after I ordered it. it's the bung for the oem O2 sensor from KO racing. unfortunately still don't have a tial wastegate which supposedly was supposed to be here late last week/early this week but is still not here yet on thursday... and the turbo has been in transit for 8 total business days now and the tracking number hasn't shown anything since the second day. I was planning on both parts to be here this week, but apparently it takes longer than 2 weeks to get a turbo from quebec canada to californa, and more than 6 business days to get a wastegate here from mississippi... *sigh*

[6strngs]

I'll take a bunch of pictures tomorrow. what I can say now is that my turbo came in! but since no one was here to sign for it, they are holding it at the post office, but the post office closes at 5 and I didn't get home til 6 tonight, so I'm gonna head over tomorrow morning before work to pick it up! I'm so excited, I've been waiting for this thing for 2 weeks! the wastegate still isn't here though, the jerk said he "assumed" that Tial would've shipped it out by now, and was gonna contact them today, but no word from him yet. if it's not here by friday I'm gonna be royally pissed. I was planning on installing everything last week, and if still can't do it this week... grr. anyway, I'll take some pictures tomorrow, I might do a bit of test fitting and such tomorrow.

[6strngs]

looky what I got! looky what I got!


it's f'in huge! a little too huge The one I rodered was a 46 trim, 0.63 A/R, with a 0.50 A/R compressor... this one is the same (as far as I know) but with a 0.70 A/R compressor. is this going to pose any problems? I REALLY don't want to wait another 3 weeks for a different turbo, especially since it's really going to be 3 weeks sending this one back, 2 weeks for them to 'process' it, and another 3 weeks for the new one to get to me... so I'm pretty sure this turbo will be going in my car no matter what, but just wondering how this will affect performance.

[bccentaur3]

Dude, that thing is huge!!!

[presure2]

boooooo. lag city.

[bccentaur3]

^ I was thinking the same thing. Turbo Lag ftl.

[lagos]

You call it lag. I call it traction.

[DEATH]

You call it lag. I call it traction.

[presure2]

You call it lag. I call it traction.

not on a 5s, when the turbo hits after 4000rpm, it pretty much becomes usless in 1000 rpm when everything falls on its face anyway..
now, a 3s, thats a WHOLE diffrent story art.
a .70 a/r is too big for a 5s application.

[lagos]

You call it lag. I call it traction.

not on a 5s, when the turbo hits after 4000rpm, it pretty much becomes usless in 1000 rpm when everything falls on its face anyway..
now, a 3s, thats a WHOLE diffrent story art.
a .70 a/r is too big for a 5s application.

I was just joking.

However I would love to see a really oversized turbo on a 5sfe someday. If you ever go on honda-tech, youll see that those guys run gigantic turbos on their SHOC cars, that flow a lot worse then a 5sfe, and yet they have some good results. Granted, they do have a power band of 1-2000 rpm.

This post has been edited by lagos: Feb 26, 2008 - 6:53 PM

[6strngs]

so... what can I do? can I just get a .50 A/R compressor housing or am I gonna need a compressor wheel to go along with it?

[Culpable04]

with whatever turbo you go, it'd be a good idea to add a set of regrind cams so you can take a little bit more advantage of the turbo.

[6strngs]

so the verdict is... I'm gonna buy CaliJeff's used CT-26 for now while I send this turbo back to get the right sized one. I tried to fit it in the engine bay and it hits the bleeder screw for bleeding the clutch system. so it doesn't fit unless you clock it so it points upwards like the CT-26 does. I'm pretty pissed about it.

[6strngs]

sent an e-mail to the place I got my turbo from, here's what I wrote:

Hi,
My name is Nathan, I just ordered a turbo from you about 2 and a half weeks ago. It finally arrived today but it's the wrong size. I ordered a Garrett T/T04E, 46 trim, 0.63 turbine A/R, and 0.50 compressor A/R. What I recieved definately has a 0.70 compresser A/R which is way too big for my application, in fact, I tried to fit it in and it doesn't even fit. I think it might also only have the 0.48 turbine A/R because the fins on the exhaust side seem really small. but I'm not really sure. I'd really like to just return this turbo for the right sized one, but I'm kind of limited on time. So, what options do I have?
Nathan


here's the reply:


Hello NAthan,

Yes there is a model of t04e with smaller spouts (3" and 2" instead of 4" and 2½") but in terms of fitment, it will make no difference since all T04e compressor housings have the same outside diameter. Don'T worry aout the compressor A/R value being too large, it's not the case, this parameter has only minor impact on the behavior of the turbo and a higher A/R is more appropriate for mild setups while low A/R is better for very high pressure boosting.
The wheel trim that you have ordered (46) on the compressor side is basically what dictates the capacities of the turbo.
If physical fitment of the turbo is a problem, I would recommend switching to a t04b cold side that will reduce your compressor housing overall diameter by around 1" (½" each side) and we have some t04b cold sides with wheels flowing similar and even more than t04e 46 trim and they are the same price.

concerning your turbine side, i know it may be confusing but remember that the A/R of the housing has nothing to do with the fins of the impeller. you can vary the A/R and the wheel size remains the same. in your case, it's a stage 1 turbine wheel. if you want bigger wheel on the hot side, we can also do it but it will slow down spool up compared to stage one.
Since stage 3 turbine wheel is more expensive, we will double check your particular goals and expectations to determine if it'S really required.
please, confirm the engine you are boosting, it's atmospheric power and your power goals once boosted as well as the main use of the car. we will advise on the most appropriate hot side for your power requirements. modifying it is quick and cheap.
The turn around time on any such modification is only 48 hrs and we can ship express to save you time.

Have a nice day!

[x_itchy_b_x]

You call it lag. I call it traction.

truth.

Awe man. I was excited to see a big turbo on a 5sfte.

[6strngs]

well, it's still the same size turbo, just a smaller compressor housing. I worked it out with him and I'm mailing out the .70 A/R compressor housing out tomorrow and he said he'll mail out the .50 A/R compressor housing as soon as I send him the tracking number. so, should only be a couple more weeks. The new housing has a 90 degree bend for the outlet... which might just be a good thing

still haven't heard from the guy about the wastegate...

but I still bought another CT-26 that I'm gonna put in tomorrow so I can have a working turbo while I wait for this other one. for now, here's some pictures.

Here's a couple of the engine bay as it stands, with the new intake and the catch can, and relocated battery.



my friends were eating some alphabet cookies and they made this while I was inside:


and my favorite pic of all

[bccentaur3]

and my favorite pic of all

Jeez and I thought the ct26 was a big turbo.

[MaX]

any updates. i cant seem to find a ct26, so i'm leaning towards the t3/t4. car went into the shop yesterday for a rebuild. so it has begun

[6strngs]

yes, I do have some updates:

1: sent the compressor housing back and he's sending me the correct one. I asked for express mail which is 4-5 business days so should be here next week.

2: heard from the guy about the wastegate, he says TiAl refused to ship directly to me and had to ship to him, so he told me once he recieved it he would ship it out with express mail. so, should also be here next week. He apologized for the delay and said that for the next item I buy from him he would give it to me at his cost, and he said he got a pretty good discount on anything automotive, so maybe I'll get me something nice.

3: I got the other CT-26 in and working yesterday. so now I have boost again! one problem though. When Jeff had it, he said he was hitting insane amounts of boost, like 20 PSI... he said it was because there was only one bolt on the bracket for the wastegate actuator so when the actuator moved, it would bend the bracket rather than open the wastegate. BUT, I put both bolts in and it seems fishy. basically, it'll only hit like 4 or 5 PSI initially, and then hold that for a bit and then start to climb again. I did a few 3rd gear pulls to see how high it would get and it hit about 12 PSI by the time I shifted at about 5200 RPM. I think if I had kept revving, it might've gone higher! I'll keep a close eye on the boost gauge. I think the actuator is sticking. so I think I'm gonna spray some WD-40 on it and see if that helps it. I just gotta be careful not to blow my motor before I even get the good turbo on it!

[DEATH]

or switch out to your old trusted wastegate from your last turbo

[6strngs]

or switch out to your old trusted wastegate from your last turbo

easier said than done. I've pulled the turbo out twice this week, I really really, REALLY don't want to pull it out again anytime soon!

[DEATH]

very true

[lagos]

3: I got the other CT-26 in and working yesterday. so now I have boost again! one problem though. When Jeff had it, he said he was hitting insane amounts of boost, like 20 PSI... he said it was because there was only one bolt on the bracket for the wastegate actuator so when the actuator moved, it would bend the bracket rather than open the wastegate. BUT, I put both bolts in and it seems fishy. basically, it'll only hit like 4 or 5 PSI initially, and then hold that for a bit and then start to climb again. I did a few 3rd gear pulls to see how high it would get and it hit about 12 PSI by the time I shifted at about 5200 RPM. I think if I had kept revving, it might've gone higher! I'll keep a close eye on the boost gauge. I think the actuator is sticking. so I think I'm gonna spray some WD-40 on it and see if that helps it. I just gotta be careful not to blow my motor before I even get the good turbo on it! tongue.gif

Sounds like totally normal boost creep that everyone gets with a ct26 and a free flowing exhaust, in the winter.

[6strngs]

3: I got the other CT-26 in and working yesterday. so now I have boost again! one problem though. When Jeff had it, he said he was hitting insane amounts of boost, like 20 PSI... he said it was because there was only one bolt on the bracket for the wastegate actuator so when the actuator moved, it would bend the bracket rather than open the wastegate. BUT, I put both bolts in and it seems fishy. basically, it'll only hit like 4 or 5 PSI initially, and then hold that for a bit and then start to climb again. I did a few 3rd gear pulls to see how high it would get and it hit about 12 PSI by the time I shifted at about 5200 RPM. I think if I had kept revving, it might've gone higher! I'll keep a close eye on the boost gauge. I think the actuator is sticking. so I think I'm gonna spray some WD-40 on it and see if that helps it. I just gotta be careful not to blow my motor before I even get the good turbo on it! tongue.gif

Sounds like totally normal boost creep that everyone gets with a ct26 and a free flowing exhaust, in the winter.

thing is, the last turbo I had didn't do this. and it's actually been warm, around 70 degrees, yesterday and today.

[6strngs]

ok, got the new compressor housing today. went to put it on. I noticed it was a tight fit so I was trying to be extra careful. once it was on and the bolts were only loosely put on, I tried to spin the wheel but it would not spin because the compressor hosuings inside diameter was too small. not only that, but I noticed that it bent the compressor fins!!! so now the turbo is f'ed. I contacted the company who apparently is trying to rip me off left and right, and told them I want a refund. if they refuse, I'm gonna take it up with paypal since I used them to pay for it. we'll see what happens. otherwise I have a $600 paper weight.

[presure2]

ok, got the new compressor housing today. went to put it on. I noticed it was a tight fit so I was trying to be extra careful. once it was on and the bolts were only loosely put on, I tried to spin the wheel but it would not spin because the compressor hosuings inside diameter was too small. not only that, but I noticed that it bent the compressor fins!!! so now the turbo is f'ed. I contacted the company who apparently is trying to rip me off left and right, and told them I want a refund. if they refuse, I'm gonna take it up with paypal since I used them to pay for it. we'll see what happens. otherwise I have a $600 paper weight.

NOOOOOOOOO!!
dude, that sucks.
who did you order the turbo from?

[6strngs]

blaastperformance.com

it was rebuilt, which I know was not the best, but it had a warranty so I thought I'd be ok. I'd recommend never ordering from them. ever.

[lagos]

You have some of the worst luck with turbo's I've ever seen.
If its under warranty, shouldn't they replace it for free?

[MaX]

jeez, that sucks nut....

id be doin the same thing. reeefund.

hopefully it all works out soon

[6strngs]

You have some of the worst luck with turbo's I've ever seen.
If its under warranty, shouldn't they replace it for free?

tell me about it. I've got 4 of them in my posession. one working ct26, 2 blown ct26s, and a garrett with bent compressor fins. not to mention that other turbo I paid for and never recieved. so that makes 5 turbos I've bought at some point... probably over a thousand dollars worth. That's why I bought the garrett instead of a CT26! it was supposed to be warrantied and not break like every other one!

anyway, I'm really hoping they just refund me my money, I don't even want another one, I don't want to deal with that company any more. I'll spend the extra $200 to buy a turbo locally at atp turbo.

[lagos]

I though the whole point of getting the t3/t4 was that you finally wanted a brand new turbo? Yet you went and bought a used one?

[6strngs]

I though the whole point of getting the t3/t4 was that you finally wanted a brand new turbo? Yet you went and bought a used one?

rebuilt. with a 6 month warranty. I'm pretty sure the entire CHRA is all brand new.

[presure2]

I though the whole point of getting the t3/t4 was that you finally wanted a brand new turbo? Yet you went and bought a used one?

rebuilt. with a 6 month warranty. I'm pretty sure the entire CHRA is all brand new.

so wait.
you bought a rebuilt turbo, for 600$, knowing you could get one brand new for the same price somewhere else?
(i posted about KO racing selling the very turbo you paid for a used turbo for the same price in the larger turbo thread..)

[6strngs]

well, it was more like $550. I paid $475 for the turbo, plus $33 shipping, then $22 shipping to send the old housing back, and $28 for shipping to get the new housing here. total of $558. If I had known I was going to be sent the wrong housing, then ripped off paying for shipping 3 times, and then not get a response when I ask for a refund, I definately would've bought a new one. but until I develop psychic powers I guess I'm out of luck.

[presure2]

well, it was more like $550. I paid $475 for the turbo, plus $33 shipping, then $22 shipping to send the old housing back, and $28 for shipping to get the new housing here. total of $558. If I had known I was going to be sent the wrong housing, then ripped off paying for shipping 3 times, and then not get a response when I ask for a refund, I definately would've bought a new one. but until I develop psychic powers I guess I'm out of luck.

::shakes head::
unbelieveable.

[6strngs]

to top it off, I just found their policy on returns on their website (don't know why I didn't see it before) apparently any returns count for store credit and no refunds will be given under any circumstances. I really don't know what to do now. Do I get another compressor wheel that's slightly smaller? do I get another one that's the same size and have the housing bored out? do I get another one the same size AND get a correct sized compressor housing?

I think I'll give Blaast a couple of business days to reply, and if they don't, then this turbo will be going on ebay for dirt cheap.

[presure2]

to top it off, I just found their policy on returns on their website (don't know why I didn't see it before) apparently any returns count for store credit and no refunds will be given under any circumstances. I really don't know what to do now. Do I get another compressor wheel that's slightly smaller? do I get another one that's the same size and have the housing bored out? do I get another one the same size AND get a correct sized compressor housing?

I think I'll give Blaast a couple of business days to reply, and if they don't, then this turbo will be going on ebay for dirt cheap.

get the correct turbo.
thats IF they warranty it.

[jesterwr217]

why dont you just use your working ct26??

[6strngs]

update time. So, they agreed to make the housing fit doing "whatever it takes (boring out the housing)" free of charge. However, they said the compressor wheel is not covered under warranty. they said they may be able to bend the fins back if it's not too bad, otherwise it's gonna be $60 for a new compressor wheel. not too terrible. definately should have gone with a new one by now, but hey, it's too late now.I'm kinda thinking about selling this turbo once I get it back and then buying the full KO racing t3/t4 or GT28rs kit. I doubt I will, but I'm thinking about it.

I recieved a refund for the wastegate I bought over a month ago. Apparently there was a mix-up with TiAl, and they refused to ship directly to me and had to ship to the guy I bought it from on ebay and then he would have to ship to me. I don't really know why it took a month to recieve, but he just got them today only to find that the one they sent for me was black... when I paid $15 extra to get it in blue. So I asked for a refund and he just sent it about 20 minutes ago. I'll buy one in person at ATP turbo for ~$15 more than what I paid on ebay. at least I won't have to wait a month for it.

more updates to come. I'm getting some wheels and tires on my car in the next few days, so I'm kinda gonna be delaying this project until I can fully afford it.

[lagos]

I know we are giving you a bit of a hard time, but read my sig and memorize it.
If i lived close to apt turbo, I would be doing all of my shopping with them.

[6strngs]

I've just emailed KO racing to see if they'd be willing to sell me just the CT26 to T3 adaptor and downpipe seperately.

[cjh4l22]

...I'm kinda thinking about selling this turbo once I get it back and then buying the full KO racing t3/t4 or GT28rs kit. I doubt I will, but I'm thinking about it....

gt28rs.... ooo just my 2 cents but that'd be one awesome f'ing turbo

[6strngs]

...I'm kinda thinking about selling this turbo once I get it back and then buying the full KO racing t3/t4 or GT28rs kit. I doubt I will, but I'm thinking about it....

gt28rs.... ooo just my 2 cents but that'd be one awesome f'ing turbo

I dunno. On one hand, since the t3/t4 spools slower it'll lead to less tire roasting and technically be faster in terms of quarter mile times. But since the car is still a street driven car, it might be less fun to drive with the slower spooling turbo. I'm most likely sticking with the t3/t4, but we'll see.

[lagos]

I think the 28rs would be too much of a tire roster on the 5sfe.

[6strngs]

KO racing said that if I send them my turbo, they can make the adaptor and downpipe and modify my turbo to have a V-band like they do on their street bawler kits. ok sounds good, until he said it would be $900 plus shipping! HA! maybe I'll just get the adaptor from ATS racing and buy some universal pipe and have it welded for free by the welding instuctor at my school.

[lagos]

or you could just go on ebay...
downpipe
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Downpipe-Do...sspagenameZWDVW

adapter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MR2-T3-T4-T...sspagenameZWDVW

just keep in mind that this is not the highest quality stuff.

[presure2]

KO racing said that if I send them my turbo, they can make the adaptor and downpipe and modify my turbo to have a V-band like they do on their street bawler kits. ok sounds good, until he said it would be $900 plus shipping! HA! maybe I'll just get the adaptor from ATS racing and buy some universal pipe and have it welded for free by the welding instuctor at my school.

yea, ko can fabricate some GREAT stuff, and kris is a really cool guy, but it is NOT cheap.

i would go with the ATS adapter, and have a screamer pipe weled up, like you are talking about.

[6strngs]

I've already got an ebay adaptor, but I think everything would be easier if I had an adaptor more like the street brawler kit's. the oil filter probably wouldn't even need to be relocated then. I've thought of blocking off/welding shut the oping on the side of the adaptor, and then boring a hole the same size in the front of it and then it'd be the same as ATS's. Or getting one of those cheap ssautochrome MR2 manifolds and cutting off the CT26 flange and having a T3 flange welded on instead + have a wastegate flange welded onto it somewhere, but there's no telling if the turbo would fit then and the filter might still need to be reloacted then.

[lagos]

dont use the ssautochrome crap.

[presure2]

I've already got an ebay adaptor, but I think everything would be easier if I had an adaptor more like the street brawler kit's. the oil filter probably wouldn't even need to be relocated then. I've thought of blocking off/welding shut the oping on the side of the adaptor, and then boring a hole the same size in the front of it and then it'd be the same as ATS's. Or getting one of those cheap ssautochrome MR2 manifolds and cutting off the CT26 flange and having a T3 flange welded on instead + have a wastegate flange welded onto it somewhere, but there's no telling if the turbo would fit then and the filter might still need to be reloacted then.

i can tell you for sure the turbo will hit the manifold.
joe (supershannon77's future brother in law) has the ssautocrap manifold, with the T3 flange, and the ebay special turbo, sitting in his room. the turbo hits the manifold, the gap between the manifold and turbo flange is prolly 3/4" or more.

[6strngs]

no real updates yet. it's been 2 full weeks and Blaast still has not recieved my turbo yet. *sigh* I do have one thing for you though. I was at a hot-rod/muscle car type car show yesterday and found this battery tray for pretty cheap, so no more ghetto rigging of the battery hold-down

[presure2]

no real updates yet. it's been 2 full weeks and Blaast still has not recieved my turbo yet. *sigh* I do have one thing for you though. I was at a hot-rod/muscle car type car show yesterday and found this battery tray for pretty cheap, so no more ghetto rigging of the battery hold-down

yup, thats the same tray we used in shannons car, and joes car.
clean, and simple.
good stuff.

[6strngs]

Blaast says they recieved my turbo on thursday and are working on it now. so, hopefully only 2 more weeks til I get that back. anyway, I've been thinking alot about how I'm gonna get this all to fit in here. It seems that getting an ATS adaptor and routing like the KO racing kit won't work if I'm following the same IC piping route that supershannon followed, which I was planning on doing, and since my housing has a 90 degree bend off it too there's not much else I could do without some crazy bends that would be terrible for flow. so I think I'm gonna stick with the adaptor I have, but I don't really see how the oil filter relocation is gonna work with the A/C still in there. today I was kinda thinking about selling the t3/t4 when I get it back and just getting a CT27, but I don't think that turbo will be big enough for what I want. I think I'll just give the garrett a shot anyway.

[6strngs]

turbo is on it's way back. currently still in canada but should be in the states by tomorrow at least.

anyway, after reading bccentaur's thread, I'm wondering if my engine might have blown piston rings too... It would explain why I've blown 2 turbos and I have a feeling this one might be on it's way out. I get some smoke coming out the tail pipe which looks white to me, but it could be blue. a friend driving behind me a couple weeks ago told me he saw a bunch of blue smoke come out of my tailpipe. I'm definately gonna do a compression check before I put this new turbo on, and, if it's determined that my engine isn't looking good, I want to get a 3sgte for it. I figure most of my mods will transfer over to that engine including the FMIC, the 3" exhaust, the SAFCII, the MBC, the gauges, the walbro fuel pump, and the t3/t4. I figure that'd be good for quite a bit of power on a 3sgte! perhaps as much as 280WHP at 15 PSI? not bad for merely putting a new engine in and swapping all my aftermarket stuff over. of course, I'd almost rather buy an ST165, swap a 3rd gen engine in, and then put all the mods on and probably break 300AWHP. but I'm getting ahead of myself, gotta do a compression test first.

[6strngs]

5sfe specifications for compression:

178 PSI

Minimum of 142 PSI

Maximum allowable difference of 14 PSI

here's the numbers I got:
Cyl 1: 140 PSI
Cyl 2: 131 PSI
Cyl 3: 135 PSI
Cyl 4: 150 PSI

x 1000000! I didn't think to do a wet compression test, but since I had a theory that the piston rings were worn, I would guess that I was right. I'm not really sure what to do now, I want to do a 3sgte, but I really can't see putting that much MORE money into this car... I would love to get an alltrac, but the ST185's are so expensive, and the ST165's I think wouldn't be "new enough" as I kind of want to get a newer car rather than an older one. *sigh*

[bccentaur3]

If its not your daily driver I say hang in there. Just think of all the time and money you've put into the celi. I was in the same boat, but after thinking and my girlfriend wanting to beat me down. I decided I should just keep on track and think of the outcome.

[6strngs]

the thing is, I know that if I "rebuild" this engine, I'm not gonna be satisfied to just use stock stuff. I'm gonna want forged, low compression pistons, forged rods, balanced crank, port and polished head, oversized valves, cams, etc etc. and then even if I pull all this turbo stuff off, I know I still won't pass smog!

[addictions]

MOVE TO IOWA! lol no smog test here

[99GT]

Move to MN too. Nothing, stupid people run open header all the time.

[supershannon77]

What about buying a newer 5sfe motor? Thats what I ended up doing...the only thing is if you wanna swap at all now is the time if you are planning on taking the motor out. It really comes down t goals and $$$

[6strngs]

yeah, I want to keep the car and finish what I started, especially since i had such high hopes for it. tonight I was at a local import meet and as I had about 10 total strangers gathered around my car asking questions about it, I realized I would never get that kind of attention with any other car. however, I think in terms of the $ to horsepower ratio, a 3sgte swap would be a better idea, BUT, then I could never get my car smogged. So, say I want to build up a 5sfte, well, what I was planning on doing in 12 months when I need to smog again was just take all the turbo stuff off and throw the stock stuff on and then put it back on again after the smog, but if you change the internals, it's not that easy. I know I'd want forged, low compression pistons and forged 3sgte rods with ARP rod bolts and head bolts, and a metal headgasket at least. but possibly also a ported and polished head with a valve job and oversized valves. maybe port and polish the intake manifold too. and a set of cams of course... but that wouldn't be so easy to swap out.

do you think emissions will go up from using lower compression pistons? if I don't do anything to the head and just build the bottom end?

[DEATH]

do you think emissions will go up from using lower compression pistons? if I don't do anything to the head and just build the bottom end?

Never thought of it that way - why do you think that [what are your suspicions]?

[6strngs]

do you think emissions will go up from using lower compression pistons? if I don't do anything to the head and just build the bottom end?

Never thought of it that way - why do you think that [what are your suspicions]?

it might not get complete combustion and then the CO would increase.

one things for sure, if I do use low compression pistons, then when I am ready to sell the car and I sell all the modifications seperate from the car like I plan to, somebody isn't gonna be happy about only getting like 115 flywheel HP when it's NA opposed to 135. lol.

anyway, if building the bottom end does not raise emissions any, then I could have 2 heads, one stock, and one fully built that I could put on and then swap out when smog comes around.

[DEATH]

T-spoon [currently owned by Ngofcukingway] has slightly lowered compression with built bottom end and it's not significantly slower than other GTs by any means - in fact it's one of the quickest N/A 5s's I know.

[NgoFcukinWay]

T-spoon [currently owned by Ngofcukingway] has slightly lowered compression with built bottom end and it's not significantly slower than other GTs by any means - in fact it's one of the quickest N/A 5s's I know.

Fo shizzle.

[DEATH]

T-spoon [currently owned by Ngofcukingway] has slightly lowered compression with built bottom end and it's not significantly slower than other GTs by any means - in fact it's one of the quickest N/A 5s's I know.

Fo shizzle.

And I give it extra props cause it's the only quick 5S in town that I didn't make that way

[NgoFcukinWay]

do you think emissions will go up from using lower compression pistons? if I don't do anything to the head and just build the bottom end?

Never thought of it that way - why do you think that [what are your suspicions]?

IIRC, T-Spoon's running a little rich, but it really shouldn't be a problem. previous owner of my car slapped on a new hi-flow cat on the car and it's good. It passed TX emissions, but the guy that did the test put it down as a 1.8l, so maybe that played a part in it.

[6strngs]

I'm gonna do another compression test today. this time I'm gonna test each cylinder like 3 times just to be sure, then I'm gonna do a wet compression test. if it's bad, I still haven't decided between a new car or a rebuilt engine. if it's good, and the low compression is an "easy" fix with some valve seals or a head gasket, then I guess we'll still be seeing a T3/T4 powered 5s.

my friend has an uber-clean 89 supra turbo for sale that looks mighty appealing if this engine is f***ed

[DEATH]

I'm gonna do another compression test today. this time I'm gonna test each cylinder like 3 times just to be sure, then I'm gonna do a wet compression test. if it's bad, I still haven't decided between a new car or a rebuilt engine. if it's good, and the low compression is an "easy" fix with some valve seals or a head gasket, then I guess we'll still be seeing a T3/T4 powered 5s.

my friend has an uber-clean 89 supra turbo for sale that looks mighty appealing if this engine is f***ed

Those cars are POS's [ask Ngofcukingway], especially with the stock 7M-GTE. Keep the Celica - please.
Just rebuild her - it's just a damn rebuild. Better yet drop a newer 5S in there like Pressure did - 98+ FTMFW

[6strngs]

I'm gonna do another compression test today. this time I'm gonna test each cylinder like 3 times just to be sure, then I'm gonna do a wet compression test. if it's bad, I still haven't decided between a new car or a rebuilt engine. if it's good, and the low compression is an "easy" fix with some valve seals or a head gasket, then I guess we'll still be seeing a T3/T4 powered 5s.

my friend has an uber-clean 89 supra turbo for sale that looks mighty appealing if this engine is f***ed

Those cars are POS's [ask Ngofcukingway], especially with the stock 7M-GTE. Keep the Celica - please.
Just rebuild her - it's just a damn rebuild. Better yet drop a newer 5S in there like Pressure did - 98+ FTMFW

I'm really not sure where to source a 98+ 5sfe from.

[bccentaur3]

CAR-PART.com You can find a butt load of parts there.

[supershannon77]

yup I got mine from a junk yard and it was in real good shape by the looks of it.

[6strngs]

well, I just went out and compression checked it. here's the results:

test 1, dry
cyl 1: 178
cyl 2: 150
cyl 3: 155
cyl 4: 180

test 2, dry (to recheck numbers)
cyl 1: 176
cyl 2: 155
cyl 3: 155
cyl 4: 176

test 3, wet
cyl 1: 200
cyl 2: 190
cyl 3: 185
cyl 4: 202

well, what do you all deduce from these numbers? cylinders 3 and 4 are lower, but I don't know if they're too far out of spec. and with the wet test, the numbers went up, but even the 2 cylinders with good compression went up about 20 PSI, and the bad 2 went up about 30. so, what do you think? good or bad?

[6strngs]

erm... slight update... the car died today while I was driving it, pretty hard, now it doesn't start. and based on the sounds it makes while cranking, I'd be willing to put money on one or two cylinders not having compression. argh!

[bccentaur3]

With the wet compression check going up like that, that means that your piston rings are worn.