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> ebay header, does anyone have it?
post Apr 28, 2008 - 3:57 AM
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blackbullet



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I was wondering if these ebay headers are good? does anyone have it? and what is the quality of it? any improvements?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Celi...sspagenameZWDVW


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post Apr 28, 2008 - 4:50 AM
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some people do. dont think its too much. and also, some say there is a slight mod to be done to it...


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post Apr 28, 2008 - 10:55 AM
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99Celica



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great bang for the buck, I didn't have to mod anything it all fit great. Not much improvement but I still have stock exhaust for now...
post Apr 28, 2008 - 11:20 AM
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wont pass smog with it


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post Apr 28, 2008 - 12:46 PM
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I have it, you'll have to mod it if you purchase the older version. Make sure you purchase from an ebay member named: surewinproducts
That's straight bolt on and fits right with the flange. Gotta tell you though, if you do it, make sure you give yourself plenty of time and have an impact gun to take off the rusted bolts. Don't forget the "Jig-a-loo" because WD-40 just won't cut it.
If you're gonna be doing this mod, make sure you do a custom exhaust or have a custom exhaust and have a cat because you'll be running cat-less....unless that's what you want, you earth-killer *shakes fist* and you're gonna have a real tinny ricer sound if ur running with stock exhaust with just muffler or something.
I'm not sure if there was a diff. in power but throttle response for sure. But all in all, it looks nicer in ur engine bay, and takes off like 20lbs because the stock headers are like an anchor compared to the aftermarket ones.
Also, don't forget to heatwrap it.

This post has been edited by _mikeE: Apr 28, 2008 - 12:48 PM
post Apr 28, 2008 - 12:58 PM
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Im so dissapointed i sold my Greddy catback a while back for 250 only to my friend with a 6gc and then someone crashed into his car. I think he already sold the exhause but if he still has it then hey.. it will probably me mine again...smile.gif...


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post Apr 29, 2008 - 12:07 AM
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at first it doesnt have much of a different but when it breaks in you'll feel the power. when i first put on my header one of my buddys 96 civic ex alwaise pulls me by 2 cars on third gear but when my header breaked in he was 2 1/2 cars behind until the end of 4th gear, he was up to my door soo i think it makes quite a difference. true story!
post Apr 29, 2008 - 1:51 AM
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Are you sure he pulled you 2 cars? cause i raced my friends 97 civic ex and once i poped into 3rd gear he was 2 1/2 cars behind me. He had me at 1st and 2nd but i creeped up and passed him up. probably because civics are lighter and takes off faster i guess. Both were all stock though. But if on the freeway they can't catch up, even the 99 si because i race one and that guy down shift first then i did and i pulled up past him. I saw that fool looking at his rear view mirror for me but his girlfriend was pointing at my car as i past him up..haha..smile.gif


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post Apr 29, 2008 - 11:27 AM
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99Celica



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QUOTE(blackbullet @ Apr 29, 2008 - 1:51 AM) [snapback]669160[/snapback]

I saw that fool looking at his rear view mirror for me but his girlfriend was pointing at my car as i past him up..haha..smile.gif


FTW!
post May 3, 2008 - 8:21 PM
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i have one. it looks nice. and made a big difference in throttle response. i'm also running 2.5 pipe from it to the rear no cats or resonators. definitely the loudest car i've ever heard.


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post May 6, 2008 - 10:16 PM
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I got it and enjoy it...good bang for the buck from Surewinproducts seller
post May 8, 2008 - 9:23 PM
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I bought that header off of ebay and at first sounded a bit ricey because I had a broken flexpipe. But I just got the flexpipe eliminated and ordered another one. But as a temp fix I went ahead and got a shop to weld on a temp. pipe where the flexpipe is suppose to be... Has to be the quietest car I ever heard.

I'll try and get video so you can get a good Idea.

BTW.... I don't have my headers heat wrapped. Just be careful with your O2 sensor wires because they will burn and break.


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post May 9, 2008 - 12:49 AM
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its a good buy. i looks good for it for about for a month with the oxidized look but then it looks like crap and u gotta wrap em


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post May 14, 2008 - 7:06 PM
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very good buy i just the same one but havent installed it yet. i think my is car has two o2 sensors and i see one on the header and one where there is a bolt are those where i put in the o2 sensors???

did anyones check engine light go on after it was installed??? also will i pass emitions test with these header
post May 14, 2008 - 11:34 PM
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Nope, no CEL will be thrown or any engine lights and you will most definitely not pass emissions, also removing your stock headers, you're also removing your cat as well as it is built with the stock headers so if you don't do a custom exhaust with a new cat, you're an earth killer! lol
Also on the aftermarket headers, there are two holes, one with the bolts to bolt up the o2 sensor and one that should come with a bolt to cover the hole, but that 2nd hole is if you decide to do a wideband, if not, then just keep the bolt tight and covering the hole.
post May 15, 2008 - 4:24 PM
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QUOTE (_mikeE @ May 14, 2008 - 11:34 PM) *
Nope, no CEL will be thrown or any engine lights and you will most definitely not pass emissions, also removing your stock headers, you're also removing your cat as well as it is built with the stock headers so if you don't do a custom exhaust with a new cat, you're an earth killer! lol
Also on the aftermarket headers, there are two holes, one with the bolts to bolt up the o2 sensor and one that should come with a bolt to cover the hole, but that 2nd hole is if you decide to do a wideband, if not, then just keep the bolt tight and covering the hole.


well i mean as far as emissions here in illinois all they check is if my check eninge light is on or if any codes are stored since its an odb2. so i should be ok then.


but when anyone installed there headers did you have to jack up the car to remove the three bolts connected to the downpipe. also are these header a perfect fit or will i have to push down on the downpipe to connect the headers??? also did anyones bolts snap cuz my cars bolts are all rusted whats the best way to avoid this. i tried using WD-40 to take of the heat shield and the sheild cracked and i scard to go any furthur with this.
post May 15, 2008 - 4:29 PM
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regarding the rusted bolts, my friend and I broke 3 sockets and an extension before giving up and taking it to a shop. Turns out all 3 were seized and had to be broken out. If you've got an impact wrench you may be able to get them off. Idk how you plan on taking off the 3 bolts w/o jacking the car up, I can't even do an oil change w/o a jack.
post May 15, 2008 - 4:45 PM
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QUOTE (99Celica @ May 15, 2008 - 4:29 PM) *
regarding the rusted bolts, my friend and I broke 3 sockets and an extension before giving up and taking it to a shop. Turns out all 3 were seized and had to be broken out. If you've got an impact wrench you may be able to get them off. Idk how you plan on taking off the 3 bolts w/o jacking the car up, I can't even do an oil change w/o a jack.



shoot maybe i should just play it safe and take it to a shop then. how much where you changed???

This post has been edited by crash60068: May 15, 2008 - 4:45 PM
post May 15, 2008 - 4:48 PM
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99Celica



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I gave him a 20 spot, but I knew him so I have no idea.
post May 15, 2008 - 8:00 PM
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Me and Valo666 did mine in his garage, all you need is an impact gun and some penetrating lubricant. Also hammering the bolt and such will help break some of the rust so you can twist it off too.
And i would advise you to heatwrap your headers, its going to get very hot under your hood and could ruin a couple things like your dipstick for one if it sits too close. AND if you do touch the chrome with your hands, whip it down with some alcohol before you start the car because once the headers heats up, you can't remove the fingerprints.
post May 17, 2008 - 3:31 AM
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Off of this topic but one of my stud to the header is broken off with the nut and only a little piece left to it, can barely bolt a nut on it. It's the one on the header to the driver side bottom. Is it hard to replace it? any suggestions?


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post May 17, 2008 - 5:09 AM
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ok i change the headers to day and man what bitch the only hard thing was. was the last bolt on the far left hidding behind the alternator. but hey its on. the one problem is my check engine light went on when i gunned it full thortle and now its stuck on. did anyone have this problem???
post May 17, 2008 - 12:12 PM
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99Celica



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I didn't and i'm sure mostly everyone else didn't. You may have a leak. Check all the bolts to make sure they're torqued enough.
post May 20, 2008 - 2:58 AM
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did anyones check engine light go one once after they installed it??? mine did i think it because of the bottom o2 sensor. so i reset the ecu and now the light only goes on when i floor it. is this because of the o2 sensor???
post May 20, 2008 - 3:30 PM
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QUOTE (crash60068 @ May 20, 2008 - 8:58 AM) *
did anyones check engine light go one once after they installed it??? mine did i think it because of the bottom o2 sensor. so i reset the ecu and now the light only goes on when i floor it. is this because of the o2 sensor???

Probably... most likely... OBD2... Yes. Go get the code read...

QUOTE (blackbullet @ May 17, 2008 - 9:31 AM) *
Off of this topic but one of my stud to the header is broken off with the nut and only a little piece left to it, can barely bolt a nut on it. It's the one on the header to the driver side bottom. Is it hard to replace it? any suggestions?

Extract that stud and replace it with a new one. A pair of vice grips should extract them OK... but stud extractors are best if you got em.


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post May 20, 2008 - 4:20 PM
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use the anti-fouler trick for the o2 sensor


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post May 21, 2008 - 5:22 PM
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QUOTE (crash60068 @ May 20, 2008 - 8:58 AM) *
did anyones check engine light go one once after they installed it??? mine did i think it because of the bottom o2 sensor. so i reset the ecu and now the light only goes on when i floor it. is this because of the o2 sensor???


Mine came on about 3-4 months after the install. I have an actron code reader and the code it was throwing had to do with the cat malfunctioning. Obviously there is no cat so I guess the car is correct in stating its not working. Couple of weeks ago the light came on again, same code, same problem.

It will most likely happen to everyone that has done the header. I however think that your CEL light is going to be caused by something else...


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post May 21, 2008 - 6:39 PM
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QUOTE (LewFX @ May 20, 2008 - 4:20 PM) *
use the anti-fouler trick for the o2 sensor



what trick are you talking about??? or should i replace the bottom o2 sensor

after i change the headers the check engine light wasnt not untill i pass 4k rpm. then it stays on. once i reset the ecu the light goes off and stays off untill i go pass 4k rpm again why is this???
post May 22, 2008 - 3:21 PM
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QUOTE (crash60068 @ May 21, 2008 - 7:39 PM) *
QUOTE (LewFX @ May 20, 2008 - 4:20 PM) *
use the anti-fouler trick for the o2 sensor



what trick are you talking about??? or should i replace the bottom o2 sensor

after i change the headers the check engine light wasnt not untill i pass 4k rpm. then it stays on. once i reset the ecu the light goes off and stays off untill i go pass 4k rpm again why is this???



maybe the engine its telling you not to treat her so bad, be smooth ....lol
post May 22, 2008 - 5:03 PM
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i did the headers on my st with ebay bought ones. now for the first o2 sensor i justed plugged it with a piece of steel and 2 bolts. check engine light didnt come on.
post May 23, 2008 - 11:18 PM
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QUOTE (phantom @ May 22, 2008 - 3:21 PM) *
QUOTE (crash60068 @ May 21, 2008 - 7:39 PM) *
QUOTE (LewFX @ May 20, 2008 - 4:20 PM) *
use the anti-fouler trick for the o2 sensor



what trick are you talking about??? or should i replace the bottom o2 sensor

after i change the headers the check engine light wasnt not untill i pass 4k rpm. then it stays on. once i reset the ecu the light goes off and stays off untill i go pass 4k rpm again why is this???



maybe the engine its telling you not to treat her so bad, be smooth ....lol



idkn thats pretty hard for me to do. i got the need for speed lol
post May 30, 2008 - 7:37 AM
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FINALLY got mine installed! Sounds sweet! too bad its already gold but oh well.. I thought about Heat Wrapping it but I just don't have the money to do it... frown.gif



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post May 30, 2008 - 8:07 AM
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If you look on ebay, you can find DEI exhaust wraps for like 30 or so. Also, lets hope you don't start melting a bit of the plastic off your alternator or dipstick---i've already seen it happen.
post May 30, 2008 - 8:39 AM
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QUOTE (_mikeE @ May 30, 2008 - 8:07 AM) *
If you look on ebay, you can find DEI exhaust wraps for like 30 or so. Also, lets hope you don't start melting a bit of the plastic off your alternator or dipstick---i've already seen it happen.

That would be no bueno! Is it possible to wrap it while its on? I just don't wanna take it off. .


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post May 30, 2008 - 8:59 AM
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QUOTE (bseaman_5 @ May 30, 2008 - 9:39 AM) *
QUOTE (_mikeE @ May 30, 2008 - 8:07 AM) *
If you look on ebay, you can find DEI exhaust wraps for like 30 or so. Also, lets hope you don't start melting a bit of the plastic off your alternator or dipstick---i've already seen it happen.

That would be no bueno! Is it possible to wrap it while its on? I just don't wanna take it off. .

haha you could try, but i wouldn't count on how good of a job you'll manage...probably could with the more open space now since you took off your stock headers and all. Oh and make sure you get yourself some steel zipties to hold the wrapping.
post May 30, 2008 - 9:29 AM
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[/quote]
haha you could try, but i wouldn't count on how good of a job you'll manage...probably could with the more open space now since you took off your stock headers and all. Oh and make sure you get yourself some steel zipties to hold the wrapping.
[/quote]
Lol well I think I may try it that way ha ha! If it doesn't work, no harm done right? I'll just have to take it off and do it. . Even tho I REALLY don't want to do that


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post May 30, 2008 - 2:15 PM
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well here's a pic of my headers before installing them and even this...is not considered the best job and as a matter of fact, quite sloppily done but w/e as long as it holds on well, but I wrapped pretty much the main areas that heat up mostly. I can't remember how long this one was but I ran out.

Yes, i couldn't find my pair of shears to cut the excess remainder of the steel ziptie.

This post has been edited by _mikeE: May 30, 2008 - 2:17 PM
post May 30, 2008 - 2:22 PM
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Cool cool. Thanks. I'll prolly do it tonight


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post May 31, 2008 - 11:41 AM
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I just got mine and i got all the bolts off except the two infront of the cat...... Those bolts aint coming off..... I guess ill have to take it to a shop..... Sorry if i'm ranting, i'm just angry

This post has been edited by Stambo: May 31, 2008 - 12:14 PM


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post May 31, 2008 - 12:30 PM
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QUOTE (Stambo @ May 31, 2008 - 11:41 AM) *
I just got mine and i got all the bolts off except the two infront of the cat...... Those bolts aint coming off..... I guess ill have to take it to a shop..... Sorry if i'm ranting, i'm just angry



use a dremel and pick up some new bolts at home depot. mines on there nice and tight.
post May 31, 2008 - 12:34 PM
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QUOTE (Stambo @ May 31, 2008 - 12:41 PM) *
I just got mine and i got all the bolts off except the two infront of the cat...... Those bolts aint coming off..... I guess ill have to take it to a shop..... Sorry if i'm ranting, i'm just angry


those are tough, I ended up breaking 2 sockets and an extension before finally taking it to a muffler shop and even then they had to break them because they were seized.
post Jun 1, 2008 - 12:26 AM
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sous are you just saying cut the bolts right off of there? And my header i got off ebay actually bolts to the cat instead of removing it all together...


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post Jun 1, 2008 - 1:01 AM
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edit

This post has been edited by bseaman_5: Jun 3, 2008 - 10:11 PM


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post Jun 1, 2008 - 10:43 AM
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Stambo



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I got my header all wrapped up and ready to go!



I got it in finally!


But, just a small problem...... The ebay ad said fit 94-99 celica 1.8L so i figured i'm in the clear.... I was wrong


So i'm taking it to a shop to have them finish connecting it off.

This post has been edited by Stambo: Jun 1, 2008 - 4:29 PM


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post Jun 3, 2008 - 9:01 PM
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the shop wouldn't even touch my car because they said it was assisting with tampering with the car for emissions i'm assuming. So any ideas here? I can't really figure out a way to have the outlet of the header to mount to the frame, because right now when drove it to the shop it vibrated violently. I really don't want to have to go back to the stock exhaust but if i'm SOL i guess i'll have too.


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post Jan 14, 2009 - 6:29 AM
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i want to buy this header because of the fact that i hate the look of the heat shield and the stock header is just hidious, but this my first car thats older than a 96 so bare with me but, i thought that obd1 didnt have an emissions test that it was only a safety Inspection. If thats the case then passing emissions wont be a problem with 94-95 cellies right?


EDIT: Disregard my emissions question, i went to ncdot.org and read the section about emissions testing, read that 95 and earlier vehicles do not require an emissions test only safty so i will be buying this header when i pull my broke 5s and put another 5s in.

This post has been edited by foxcraze: Jan 14, 2009 - 7:11 AM


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post Jan 17, 2009 - 7:22 PM
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You should be able to get by with it but technically removing the cat could get you snagged. Most inspectors though won't catch it....I should know I am one in NC.

This post has been edited by Agent21: Jan 17, 2009 - 7:23 PM


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post Jan 17, 2009 - 11:17 PM
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remove the wrap on the rest of the header, you don't want it where it can get wet.


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post Jan 18, 2009 - 1:12 AM
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QUOTE (Agent21 @ Jan 18, 2009 - 3:22 AM) *
You should be able to get by with it but technically removing the cat could get you snagged. Most inspectors though won't catch it....I should know I am one in NC.



thanks for the info man much appreciated. Where in NC are you ?


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post Jan 18, 2009 - 8:45 PM
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In Charlotte not currently working for an inspection place but licensed. Got the same ebay deal for my GT but had to machine the hell out of it to port match it. Those damn 5 year olds in china didn't do a very good job for $.60 a day and left like 1/8" of material on each port at the bottom.


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post Jan 18, 2009 - 9:10 PM
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I just recieved my ebay header. I orderd it for an mr2 SW20. Its for a 5sfe but slightly different in that fack that the JDM 3sfe doest have two cats it on has one standar cat which is under the car.

Everything still bolts up fine with a little problem of the altenator sitting right on the left runner because on the sw20 the altenator is on the back side of the engine not the front like on the 6g. So belt tension is not going to happen with the header on.






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The RHD st202 that made it from Japan check it out. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78103
post Jan 18, 2009 - 10:25 PM
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haha i love florida and no emission laws!!! tongue.gif just a resonator for me cant be haveing the ricyness you know lol


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post Jan 19, 2009 - 12:15 AM
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my header came up short too.
i think it must actually be a part for a corolla with a 7afe.
i rounded off the cat bolts too and decided i would hold it up and test fit it when i discovered it was too short.
i live at an apartment and don't even have a garage to do work in.
so i made a makeshift pipe between the two and bolted it on.
it leaks like hell but its better than running around open header.
i failed inspection in NC for it. they do check your exhaust system.
just not for emissions.
they had my car up on the lift and stuff which i though was odd.
it still has to be safe though and technically exhaust leaks are unsafe.
but if you just scrape your sticker off they will never know because they aren't doing inspection stickers in NC anymore.
just don't get pulled over and get it inspected before you have to renew your tags
post Jan 19, 2009 - 8:26 AM
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Bitter

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the shortness issue is well known and has been for YEARS, its even in the how-to's on the main page.

http://www.6gc.net/howto/install_7afe_header

This post has been edited by Bitter: Jan 19, 2009 - 8:28 AM


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post Jan 19, 2009 - 8:41 AM
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Agent21

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94yoter you will get busted. When you try to renew your registration you will not be allowed to until you have passed safety inspection. A little surprised they busted you on the leak with no mention of the cat. They are required to lift the car up to look under it. Patch your leaks with muffler tape and all should be well minus the cat.


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post Jan 27, 2009 - 3:25 AM
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QUOTE (LewFX @ Apr 28, 2008 - 11:20 AM) *
wont pass smog with it

Mine passed.

This post has been edited by RisingSun1: Jan 27, 2009 - 3:28 AM
post Jan 30, 2009 - 3:56 AM
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ETERNITY_RACER

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Ebay headers? They're okay I guessed. My Celica has one. But here's a advice though. Only put one bolt to hold onto the stock downpipe and the header. Because if you tighten it with all 3 bolts, the engine is gonna be moving when you're driving hard and that's gonna cause stress to the eBay header and it will tend to break on the welds on the header. But other than that, there's no special mod for this easy project.
post Jan 31, 2009 - 10:56 PM
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Just got the ebay header from surewinproducts. A friend of mine got it for my birthday but it won't be installed until probably Wednesday, does the surewinproducts header fit perfectly or will I need that small section of piping to connect the exhaust?


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post Feb 1, 2009 - 2:34 PM
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can't vouch for the ST but the GT bolted up perfectly.
post Feb 2, 2009 - 1:55 AM
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Looking at ordering one for my 99 pretty soon, will be the first mod for it!


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post Feb 2, 2009 - 5:23 PM
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WH95TE



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Wraped and ready to go but I can't drill a hole for that second 2 sensor so I'm gonna have to bring it to a shop I guess.

This post has been edited by WH95TE: Feb 2, 2009 - 5:24 PM


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post Feb 4, 2009 - 8:34 PM
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WH95TE



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Anybody have problems lining up the header? All the holes line up but when I try t put it on they don't slide all the way, could it be off slightly? The header is from surewin, houldn't it line up perfect? I was hoping the only prolems would be the second o2 and the patch pipe, not this


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post Feb 4, 2009 - 8:45 PM
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ebay header fit like stock on my 7afe :dunno:


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post Feb 4, 2009 - 9:13 PM
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Using a dremmel to bore the holes slightly larger, it's working so far, almost on. I need to be able to drive my car home tonight(5 mins) and then to the shop tomorrow(10 mins) is that gonna be ok without the second o2 sensor in?


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post Feb 4, 2009 - 10:56 PM
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WH95TE



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All done, damn this thing is LOUD.


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post Feb 5, 2009 - 8:38 PM
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Bitter

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yea, it totally changes how the exhaust sounds.


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post Feb 6, 2009 - 4:37 PM
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99Celica



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Definitely makes the car sound a lot louder. I just switched my stock mani back in to pass smog and my car is extremely quiet even with the custom exhaust. That being said, I can't wait to put the header back on. The car seems naked w/o it.
post Feb 11, 2009 - 8:52 PM
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its very funny that people mistake my car for a WRX with it on.. the headers make the car sound like muscle.. I like them.. it makes my celica different from other cars with just headers and exhaust.. (Civic rice boys ehh hate them) im soo glad it doesnt make my car sound like a fart can.. it also makes my car pop alot.. sounds like my muffler is spitting fire lol

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Feb 11, 2009 - 8:53 PM


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post Feb 11, 2009 - 11:41 PM
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I'm definitely going to be buying one after I finish paying for some other stuff I have coming up.

And it's HEADER not headers, we only have 1.


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post Feb 15, 2009 - 7:24 PM
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sonebody should makea how to on installing...



i might... mine are wrapped just waiting fr a good day to do it!
post Feb 17, 2009 - 5:21 PM
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I think I'll head this route also smile.gif
post Feb 20, 2009 - 3:36 PM
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could we get some vids on how it looks in the engine bay and also how load it is please?
post Feb 20, 2009 - 6:16 PM
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got mine in finally, burned the crap out of my hand doing so.
but does sound amazing! alot better.
post Feb 23, 2009 - 12:17 AM
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If you get one definitely get the stainless header from seller surewinproducts. It's a direct bolt on fit - be sure to soak the studs good though as well as your flex pipe bolts - hopefully they're not too bad rusted. You may also want to break out the 18 to 24" breaker bar. I have one on my 94 GT coupe. Major improvement on throttle response and power across the entire RPM range. You'll want to go ahead and wrap it though because after about a month or so it will oxidize but boy for that first month the stainless looks good. Hope this helps.
post Feb 23, 2009 - 11:04 PM
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lfk13114

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i currently have one, its great, gave me alittle better gas mileage, but the header will blue after awhile. mine was great cause it came with the 2-1 down pipe, just had no spot for o2 sensor on the downstream,
post Feb 26, 2009 - 2:24 AM
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sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on now.

This post has been edited by black_veilside: Feb 26, 2009 - 10:07 PM
post Feb 26, 2009 - 11:05 AM
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blu94gt



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QUOTE (black_veilside @ Feb 26, 2009 - 1:24 AM) *
sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on know.


You can give it to me then biggrin.gif

It's really not a lot of work if you have any kind of mechanical inclination. The biggest pain is just that exhaust bolts can be pretty rusty and some will probably need cut off. Just get every bolt soaked in PB Blaster or something similar to break the rust, especially the bolts between the manifold and the head. Job really shouldn't take more than a couple hours, that's including about an hour of spraying and soaking to break rust.


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post Feb 26, 2009 - 11:40 AM
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bdawgbp1

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That's the worst part of it - breaking the manifold nuts loose. You have to be real careful not to snap the stud - then you're drilling it out and retapping. If the nut is froze to the stud and the whole stud spins out don't worry because you can get new studa and nuts. PB Blaster is the best thing to use - I soaked mine down and let it sit for about 30 minutes then tapped on them. Mine actually broke free using only my Craftsman 1/2" ratchet! The 3 bolts on the flex pipe are the ones that are boogers. I had to soak them and use my 24" breaker bar - and thought I was going to snap the bolts. But after putting some muscle into it they came free with no damage. I think it took me between an 1 to 1.5 hours to complete the job.

This post has been edited by bdawgbp1: Feb 26, 2009 - 11:41 AM
post Feb 26, 2009 - 10:13 PM
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black_veilside

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QUOTE (blu94gt @ Feb 26, 2009 - 12:05 PM) *
QUOTE (black_veilside @ Feb 26, 2009 - 1:24 AM) *
sound like that's a lot work just to install the header. i just bought one and i don't know if i want to put it on know.


You can give it to me then biggrin.gif

It's really not a lot of work if you have any kind of mechanical inclination. The biggest pain is just that exhaust bolts can be pretty rusty and some will probably need cut off. Just get every bolt soaked in PB Blaster or something similar to break the rust, especially the bolts between the manifold and the head. Job really shouldn't take more than a couple hours, that's including about an hour of spraying and soaking to break rust.

i was hoping for just a bolt on and not that much work, my oem header crack that is the only reason why i bought this header.
post Feb 26, 2009 - 10:35 PM
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i ended up using an impact to pop the manifold to down pipe bolts loose and it worked great with very little effort. the exhaust manifold bolts in the head were easy too, just put a ratchet on them and they turned off the studs without any issues at all, didn't even need to use any lube. just be sure to torque them to 30-40lbft when reinstalling and to re-pinch them so they stay tight.


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post Mar 15, 2009 - 1:05 AM
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WH95TE



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So the 3 bolts at the header>downpipe snapped probably from being rusty so i'm running an open header now laugh.gif Will a shop have bolts on hand to fix this? It's annoying to drive like this

This post has been edited by WH95TE: Mar 15, 2009 - 1:09 AM


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post Mar 15, 2009 - 2:57 PM
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blu94gt



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QUOTE (WH95TE @ Mar 15, 2009 - 1:05 AM) *
So the 3 bolts at the header>downpipe snapped probably from being rusty so i'm running an open header now laugh.gif Will a shop have bolts on hand to fix this? It's annoying to drive like this


Just go to a hardware store, you should be able to get the stainless bolts you need for much cheaper than a shop would give you.


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1999 Celica GT
post Mar 15, 2009 - 6:06 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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what he said ^^

go to NAPA Auto Parts, they have the good stuff (like commercial says) and they really do also buy some lock nuts. so they wont move around and loosen up. trust me i have delt with this ebay header/gasket tearing so many times its amazing!! and have yet to fix it. i think i need to resurface flanges from header to downpipe, or check out with straight edge...

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Mar 15, 2009 - 6:53 PM


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

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post May 9, 2009 - 7:47 PM
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whatthe



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Hey guys, how is performance wise with the surewin headers? Does the car feel faster or sound nicer after this install? And also if anyone has some dyno charts before and after that would be nice to post that information up


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post May 11, 2009 - 2:09 PM
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JustinCapps

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the header gives a lil more on the highway,
sound like my car breathes,
id say its worth the $80
post May 11, 2009 - 9:42 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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ya you can feel the pull above 4k. you cant tell much of a difference in 1st and 2nd. But when you get into 3rd and 4th you can actually feel the header at work..


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post May 11, 2009 - 10:28 PM
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Promasta

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does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?
post May 18, 2009 - 8:29 AM
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jimmykay

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I just got mine installed over the weekend. And like everyone else, my "seat of the pants" dyno says that it gives more power in the higher RPMs I noticed quicker highway acceleration.

Another thing to note. Its a PITA to get that out of there with both the alternator in the way and the bracket attached to the transmission.
Also, after taking the second O2 sensor out, I found that the threads were all messed up and that putting it back into the new header would cause more harm than good. So I'm running with the primary O2 sensor plugged in, and the second one completely removed. I have thrown no codes yet after 3 days of driving, so I'd say I'm ok.

The biggest improvement was probably replacing the 500lb exhaust manifold/cat with a 10-15lb one. That thing is HEAVY.
QUOTE
does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?
I can't tell any noticeable difference from inside the car. I have an Injen SRI so it makes it harder to hear the exhaust anyway. If there is a difference, its probably minor.


--------------------
'99 Celica GT - Sold
'11 Mazdaspeed3
post May 18, 2009 - 11:01 AM
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KAOS



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QUOTE (Promasta @ May 11, 2009 - 9:28 PM) *
does anyone know what it sounds like with the stock piping/resonator/muffler?
like is it raspy?/ricey?/slightly louder?/a lot louder?/does it pop a bunch?


I just threw on my headers yesterday and I notice a "rasp" at higher RPM, but you can definately tell the car is breathing better. biggrin.gif


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post May 29, 2009 - 7:17 PM
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how is the performance with the new headers and are u running a stock cat under or catless?
post May 29, 2009 - 7:52 PM
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6G96GT

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I think the performance is overall pretty good except I think you LOSE torque if you install the header. I think my car accelerated faster with the stock manifold. It kind of pisses me off. The sound is good though. I have the ebay header, high-flow cat (opened piping), aeroturbine resonator and aeroturbine muffler (both are bottle-neck shaped). It sounds mean all the way through the rpm range and is pretty deep too.

At one point before the performance resonator, I did have the stock toyota reso on and it sounded muffled and so I installed a straight pipe in place of it and it sounded horrible in the upper rpms. Now I have what I said earlier with the Aeroturbine resonator and it's perfect (except for the loss of the quick throwback you get with a stock manifold when you punch it).
post May 29, 2009 - 11:23 PM
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QUOTE (Lil-Joe101 @ Jan 19, 2009 - 11:10 AM) *
I just recieved my ebay header. I orderd it for an mr2 SW20. Its for a 5sfe but slightly different in that fack that the JDM 3sfe doest have two cats it on has one standar cat which is under the car.

Everything still bolts up fine with a little problem of the altenator sitting right on the left runner because on the sw20 the altenator is on the back side of the engine not the front like on the 6g. So belt tension is not going to happen with the header on.







I found that this header is awesome. Its not the surewinproducts header but hey I like it. There was some modding that needed to be done to my down pipe but after that it fit like a charm.



--------------------
From Japan to Texas my st202 follows me.

Being different from every angle of the word, leading the Revolution (TOYOTA NATION)
The RHD st202 that made it from Japan check it out. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78103
post May 31, 2009 - 4:12 PM
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has anyone looked into gettin headers from hks? they look brilliant and apparently are one of the best, i aint too sure about these claims,anyone ever had them fitted?
post May 31, 2009 - 5:53 PM
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joe try to get your filter away from that hot air. Also looks like your filter got raped. wink.gif


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post May 31, 2009 - 6:55 PM
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terbear4god4life



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QUOTE (TRD_GT @ May 31, 2009 - 5:12 PM) *
has anyone looked into gettin headers from hks? they look brilliant and apparently are one of the best, i aint too sure about these claims,anyone ever had them fitted?




your funny...


you know your halfway to a full turbo set up by the time you buy one of those right?

i could go to my local exhaust shop and have piping all the way back with headers for half of one of those..


--------------------
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post May 31, 2009 - 10:12 PM
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BonzaiCelica



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ya those hks header are for the 3s-ge only. Not the 3sge beams. They would probably be around $720 with shipping. Ya they are expensive but they would be well worth it in my opinion.


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Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514
post May 31, 2009 - 11:16 PM
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enderswift



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what happened to the filter?? cwm13.gif


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post May 31, 2009 - 11:34 PM
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terbear4god4life



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i know right? Lol you should do what im ganna do you get the weapon r intake and get there ram air kit:p


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post Jun 1, 2009 - 5:19 AM
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Lil-Joe101



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QUOTE (trdproven @ Jun 1, 2009 - 7:53 AM) *
joe try to get your filter away from that hot air. Also looks like your filter got raped. wink.gif



Yeah everybody tells me to move. Its only gonna be there for a lil while longer til I get my new motor. And the part noones sees is that it not all hot air. Under the filter is an induction pipe which can be traced to the the d/s(well for usdm) p/s fog light mount so all the cool arm is sucked and forced in a since to the filter, plus I have a brand new filter on this is an old pic.


--------------------
From Japan to Texas my st202 follows me.

Being different from every angle of the word, leading the Revolution (TOYOTA NATION)
The RHD st202 that made it from Japan check it out. http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78103
post Jun 1, 2009 - 7:00 AM
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ksporry

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I was gonna say, th eold filter look sa little beat up.
Also you should heat wrap your exhaust and get a heat shield around your filter to minimise hot air effects. The heat wrapping will also prevent your oxygen sensor wires melting. It'll get damn hot there!

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