Etak28's 5sfte, UPDATE: Engine is Done... Start early on offers for upcoming part out Options

[Etak28]

Yeah, so I've been on this site for around two years now learning what I can from others builds and I think it's about time me to start mine. It's going to go fairly slow since I'm a freshman in college at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, Daytona Beach, Florida. I'm far away from home and pretty broke, but we'll see what I can do!

Alright, so originally I was planning on buying Alan's entire setup and 3sgte, however, I'm financially unable to so what I've decided to do is to begin piecing together a turbo kit for my stock 5sfe.

I began this morning by buying my intercooler piping...



It's just the Ebay 2.25 CXRacing Piping kit. $109


I already have my intercooler that I'm getting from a friend...



It's a Godspeed 24x12x3. $100



Now I'm debating on what type of 3sgte manifold I want, pretty sure tubular

and what turbo I want, however, I'm pretty sure I want an external wastegate.

I'm open to suggestions tho!


UPDATES TO COME........

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 14, 2008 - 12:35 AM

[playr158]

I'd stick with OEM 3sgte manifold. Most tubular crack as we've all seen. As well as the oem can support a lot of hp.
Get a turbo adapter for the oem and you can hook up an external wastegate.

This post has been edited by playr158: Sep 11, 2008 - 6:16 AM

[Etak28]

I'd stick with OEM 3sgte manifold. Most tubular crack as we've all seen. As well as the oem can support a lot of hp.
Get a turbo adapter for the oem and you can hook up an external wastegate.

yea i was thinkin of doin that too thanks

any recommendations on turbo? i'm stuck on that you could say

[bccentaur3]

If your getting an adapter for the manifold, you might as well get a T3 turbo.

[celicast3sgte]

ive got a stock 2nd gen 3sgte manifold

[bccentaur3]

btw that piping kit isn't enough.

[Etak28]

ive got a stock 2nd gen 3sgte manifold

can i see a pic and how much?

btw that piping kit isn't enough.

yea my friend was saying that, but once i clock the turbo it won't be that short will it? how much do you think id be short

[bccentaur3]

I think you'll be fine if you clock it. You will probably need more bends though.

[Etak28]

I think you'll be fine if you clock it. You will probably need more bends though.

oh okay that's good.. thanks for the heads up tho.



So I should go with the T3


What brand turbo and is that really the one i should go with?

[bccentaur3]

Garrett FTW bro. Non of that ching ching chong crap. Although Supershannon has done okay wih it.

[Etak28]

More details to come soon....

Gotta sell some unnecessary body parts!

[Etak28]

So does anyone have suggestions on how I should mount this bigger intercooler, what i should mount it to? I assume i have to make something custom since I dont even have a crash bar.

[bccentaur3]

Since you don't have a crash bar. You can do this. Theres like a long strip of metal you can get at home depot. The strips come with holes punched in them every 1/2 inch. And you just mount one end to the intercooler and the other end on the bumper supporter.

[Etak28]

Since you don't have a crash bar. You can do this. Theres like a long strip of metal you can get at home depot. The strips come with holes punched in them every 1/2 inch. And you just mount one end to the intercooler and the other end on the bumper supporter.

haha once again will comes thru. Ill go there tomorrow.

I can already tell u will prolly be the one helping me thru this project on here.

Thanks man

[bccentaur3]

You are very welcome. Just let me know if you need any sorts of advice. I can help you out with the ladies, school work, working out. Any thing. lol......

[Etak28]

this isn't really about my turbo, but it is going to have to do with my car.
and well i guess it does deal with my turbo.

so i was looking at clutches and thinkin of gettin this XTD Stage 3 one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...d=p4506.c0.m245

it says it works for 2.2L from 90-97

is there a difference between 90-97 and 99 clutches.

mines a 99 would it work?

[bccentaur3]

No difference. They all use the same S series tranmission. I don't recommend the ebay clutch kit though. If your clutch is still good keep it, until it starts slipping.

[supershannon77]

If you are going to change the clutch..I wouldn't go with a cheap ebay one only bc when you do the clutch you really dont want to have to change it again and drop the trans out and go through all that again...I would research a more known clutch that ppl have tried and liked.

[Etak28]

No difference. They all use the same S series tranmission. I don't recommend the ebay clutch kit though. If your clutch is still good keep it, until it starts slipping.

yea good point

If you are going to change the clutch..I wouldn't go with a cheap ebay one only bc when you do the clutch you really dont want to have to change it again and drop the trans out and go through all that again...I would research a more known clutch that ppl have tried and liked.

yea ill look into that, thanks

[Etak28]

So here's what I've been doing.......... Buying, buying, buying

Here's my part list that is racking up still most of it hasn't gotten here yet:



This is the manifold, wastegate adapter, and Garret Turbo T3/T4 46 trim with a 0.63 A/R exhaust housing and a 0.50 A/R compressor housing with a 90 degree outlet I bought from 6strngs.



Downpipe I bought from ebay.



BOV adapter pipe I bought from ebay.



This is what I'm most excited about, it's the Synapse Synchronic BOV, youtube it, I bought. It's supposedly cheaper and much more efficient as far as BOV's go.



Walbro 255 fuel pump



This is the piggyback ecu I bought, Greddy e-manage

Also from Batman, I purchased my entire oil return setup; oil pan, lines, and rubber elbow

Just as pressure2 says in his writeup, I've bought everything for the oil feed line; except the actual lines so far

All I have left to get, for the most part is:

Tial 38mm Wastegate
Actual Oil Feed Line
RX7 460cc Injectors
Prosport Boost/Oil/AFR Gauges
Wideband
Turbo Timer

There's also a few other things I want, but don't have anywhere near the money for right now so I'll wait on them.


More to come!

[presure2]

that downpipe is usless, its a ct-26 downpipe, and wont work with the t3 turbo.

[DEATH]

True - altho it should be easy to sell here. I think 02bluerolla was looking for one for his CT-26.

[Etak28]

that downpipe is usless, its a ct-26 downpipe, and wont work with the t3 turbo.

oh really, well then which one am i looking for?

and what's wrong with this one, will it not bolt up?

This post has been edited by Etak28: Sep 24, 2008 - 3:11 PM

[presure2]

its a ct-26 downpipe, and wont work with the t3 turbo

you need to have one made.

[Etak28]

its a ct-26 downpipe, and wont work with the t3 turbo

you need to have one made.

oh would the company that you bought urs from make me one, berk technology?

and if so, how much did it run you?

[DEATH]

He's on a CT-27 which is the same basic mounting setup as a CT-26.

[supershannon77]

Yea once u change to from the ct26 to a t3 turbo there are extra parts you need to buy and the setup is a lil different so not everything will work like it did with the ct26 or the ct27...

edit nvm

O btw I would look into an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge just to be safe its good to have them.

This post has been edited by supershannon77: Sep 24, 2008 - 4:16 PM

[6strngs]

as was already mentioned, that downpipe is for CT-26 turbos, not the t3/t4. If you want to stick with cheap, you can get t3/t4 downpipes made for mr2's/celica alltrac's on ebay. like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Downpipe-MR...emZ150288966667

of course, you get what you pay for and it may not last too long, but as I said, I never had any problems with my ebay downpipe.

and the stock 3sgte oil lines won't work either with the t3/t4 turbo. what I would do is get something like this: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=BCS which let's you screw a 1/2 NPT thread into the turbo for a drain line, then get something like this: http://koracing.net/viewproduct.php?folder...amp;product=240 which allows for a -12AN line to be screwed onto a 3sgte oil pan. then order a stainless braided -12AN line with -12AN hose ends and a -12AN to 1/2" NPT adaptor and voila! oil drain line! pretty much the same deal for the feed line but with a -3AN line. all the lines, flanges, adaptors, gaskets, etc. are available at ATPturbo.com.

[Etak28]

as was already mentioned, that downpipe is for CT-26 turbos, not the t3/t4. If you want to stick with cheap, you can get t3/t4 downpipes made for mr2's/celica alltrac's on ebay. like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Downpipe-MR...emZ150288966667

of course, you get what you pay for and it may not last too long, but as I said, I never had any problems with my ebay downpipe.

and the stock 3sgte oil lines won't work either with the t3/t4 turbo. what I would do is get something like this: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=BCS which let's you screw a 1/2 NPT thread into the turbo for a drain line, then get something like this: http://koracing.net/viewproduct.php?folder...amp;product=240 which allows for a -12AN line to be screwed onto a 3sgte oil pan. then order a stainless braided -12AN line with -12AN hose ends and a -12AN to 1/2" NPT adaptor and voila! oil drain line! pretty much the same deal for the feed line but with a -3AN line. all the lines, flanges, adaptors, gaskets, etc. are available at ATPturbo.com.

ohhhhhhhhh ok i see the difference in the downpipes, i didn't see it at first but now i do.

thanks a lot 6strngs i will def get probably everything you just showed me! thanks a lot everyone

[Etak28]

well since i'm buying some of the wrong parts lol it's slowing me down a little

however, yesterday I installed my Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, no problems there

also my intercooler is mounted, just waiting on a new bumper for it

i like the bigger intercooler too, makes the car look beastly


Ill post pics soon, more to come as well

[Etak28]

okay well like i said the walbro is in and here's temporarily how my intercooler looks on my car

it's going to be mounted like this, however a different bumper will be on

[Etak28]

So now that my project is finally rolling together and the bulk of my stuff is getting here it leads me to some questions...


How much boost can I run with this setup and what determines how much i can run?

My goal is to run 12psi of boost, and to ensure that i'm doing what i think is correct which is im getting the tial 38mm wastegate with the 1.0 bar spring which allows up to 14.5 psi...

is there anything else i need to do to run 12psi of boost?


help me out guys!

[presure2]

So now that my project is finally rolling together and the bulk of my stuff is getting here it leads me to some questions...


How much boost can I run with this setup and what determines how much i can run?

My goal is to run 12psi of boost, and to ensure that i'm doing what i think is correct which is im getting the tial 38mm wastegate with the 1.0 bar spring which allows up to 14.5 psi...

is there anything else i need to do to run 12psi of boost?


help me out guys!

you need a smaller wastegate spring.
a 1 bar spring will set your MINIMUM boost to 14.7psi.

not to be a jerk, but you REALLY need to spend some time researching and learning about this stuff before you jump in with both feet like you have.

[pitcelica]

Do not buy that t3-t4 downpipe on ebay that 6strngs post a link about. It will not fit, the flange is welded on the wrong side. If you buy it, you will need to cut and reweld it anyway. Your best bet is to buy a new t3-t4 ouput flange and some 3" bends. Go to the exhaust welder and he will do the work.

[1bwilson]

So now that my project is finally rolling together and the bulk of my stuff is getting here it leads me to some questions...


How much boost can I run with this setup and what determines how much i can run?

My goal is to run 12psi of boost, and to ensure that i'm doing what i think is correct which is im getting the tial 38mm wastegate with the 1.0 bar spring which allows up to 14.5 psi...

is there anything else i need to do to run 12psi of boost?


help me out guys!

you need a smaller wastegate spring.
a 1 bar spring will set your MINIMUM boost to 14.7psi.

not to be a jerk, but you REALLY need to spend some time researching and learning about this stuff before you jump in with both feet like you have.

I was going to say the same thing but wasnt 100% sure. A boost controller bleeds pressure from a waste gate allowing you to "trick" it into think your boosting less then you really are. You can never boost less then what your minimum pressure would be with the controller fully closed.

[Etak28]

So now that my project is finally rolling together and the bulk of my stuff is getting here it leads me to some questions...


How much boost can I run with this setup and what determines how much i can run?

My goal is to run 12psi of boost, and to ensure that i'm doing what i think is correct which is im getting the tial 38mm wastegate with the 1.0 bar spring which allows up to 14.5 psi...

is there anything else i need to do to run 12psi of boost?


help me out guys!

you need a smaller wastegate spring.
a 1 bar spring will set your MINIMUM boost to 14.7psi.

not to be a jerk, but you REALLY need to spend some time researching and learning about this stuff before you jump in with both feet like you have.

Yea, i talked that over with my friend, i get it now. i have been doing lots of research and my friend who is helping me just rebuilt his V8 firehawk and remounted a turbo right in front of me, as well as, has lots of experience with cars such as rx7s. i have a lot of help and am sure i can do this.

Do not buy that t3-t4 downpipe on ebay that 6strngs post a link about. It will not fit, the flange is welded on the wrong side. If you buy it, you will need to cut and reweld it anyway. Your best bet is to buy a new t3-t4 ouput flange and some 3" bends. Go to the exhaust welder and he will do the work.

thanks you prolly just saved me from buying the wrong downpipe again!

[1bwilson]

I dont think Manny is questioning your ability to get the project done. I think hes saying you dont seem like your totally prepared to take the step into parts gathering. Anyone can take on a project like this, its just how much you spend extra due to misinformation. Measure twice cut once type of thing.

[Etak28]

I dont think Manny is questioning your ability to get the project done. I think hes saying you dont seem like your totally prepared to take the step into parts gathering. Anyone can take on a project like this, its just how much you spend extra due to misinformation. Measure twice cut once type of thing.

yea i kno, im just sayin... but my parts are gathered and ive already started, mistakes will happen ive already had a few but i just am trying to do the best research i can thats y i appreciate this support

[Batman722]

did you get a clutch yet ? I have a SPEC Stage 2+ link here I bought for my set up before I decided to swap. It's still in the box and never used, I'd sell it for $330 shipped to you if you want it.

[Etak28]

did you get a clutch yet ? I have a SPEC Stage 2+ link here I bought for my set up before I decided to swap. It's still in the box and never used, I'd sell it for $330 shipped to you if you want it.

na i didnt get a clutch yet but i was looking for stage 3 when i did decided to change it

[RUNNIN-LOW]

no biggy man..you just do what you have to do. everyone is here to help and yeah mistake happens..i remember my first 5s turbo set up...it was pretty bad haha didnt have a car for a whole month..my dumb ass didnt read up on nothing and just decided to do it..didnt even know this web site existed haha..but at the end it all came together..but its good that you listed the stuff you are going to get and the stuff you have already.. just tell us what other stuff your planning on getting and well help..

[Etak28]

So I've got the turbo and such bolted on, however, I'm a little cloudy on oil issues.

I'm pretty sure I have everything I need for my oil lines but I'm a little unclear of how to run everything?

Is it different with the t3/t4?

Can i just get a quick lil writeup maybe with pictures of the step by step process? Manny ur writeups on supershannon's thread are very helpful however idk im a little nervous just going out there and trying.

so anyone wanna help?

[supershannon77]

do you have a oil pressure gauge?

[Etak28]

do you have a oil pressure gauge?

didnt buy that yet, but i need to hook everything else up first and leave a spot for me to hook that up when i have the money to buy it

[6strngs]

You have Tee'd off from the stock oil pressure sender right? that's where you connect the feed line, then you connect it to the turbo using an adaptor like the one I showed you from ATPturbo.com. Use a -3AN line, to connect it to the Tee you'll need a -3AN to 1/8" NPT adaptor. Also, most on here would suggest using a restrictor in the feed line so you don't overfeed oil to the turbo.

For the drain line, connect one end of your -10AN or -12AN line to the adaptor you got for the turbo, and the other end goes to the 3sgte oil pan using the adaptor like I showed you from KO racing. using the proper adapters so you match AN threads to AN threads and NPT to NPT of course...

Also, you need to use teflon tape (it's like $0.99 for a roll of it at an auto parts store) for one of the thread types. I can't remember if it's the AN or the NPT threads you need it for... I'm thinkng NPT but don't quote me on that. Anyway, just wrap 2-3 layers of teflon tape on those threads to ensure it doesn't leak from the connection.

Oh yeah, and that particular turbo is not water cooled, so no need to worry about running coolant lines. You might want to invest in a turbo timer though.

[RUNNIN-LOW]

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

[Etak28]

You have Tee'd off from the stock oil pressure sender right? that's where you connect the feed line, then you connect it to the turbo using an adaptor like the one I showed you from ATPturbo.com. Use a -3AN line, to connect it to the Tee you'll need a -3AN to 1/8" NPT adaptor. Also, most on here would suggest using a restrictor in the feed line so you don't overfeed oil to the turbo.

For the drain line, connect one end of your -10AN or -12AN line to the adaptor you got for the turbo, and the other end goes to the 3sgte oil pan using the adaptor like I showed you from KO racing. using the proper adapters so you match AN threads to AN threads and NPT to NPT of course...

Also, you need to use teflon tape (it's like $0.99 for a roll of it at an auto parts store) for one of the thread types. I can't remember if it's the AN or the NPT threads you need it for... I'm thinkng NPT but don't quote me on that. Anyway, just wrap 2-3 layers of teflon tape on those threads to ensure it doesn't leak from the connection.

Oh yeah, and that particular turbo is not water cooled, so no need to worry about running coolant lines. You might want to invest in a turbo timer though.

thanks man that's all i needed was it all put together like that

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

yea ill post the new set of pics real soon, i may still need some stuff ill have to let you kno



my next question deals with installing the 3sgte oil pan. how do you get the one bolt off that bolts into the tranny and is hidden behind the central frame. The bolt does not go into the oil pan but it goes into the cover over the oil pan that i have to take off to get to the last couple bolts for the oil pan.

how do you get that off????

[6strngs]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

[Etak28]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

[6strngs]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

oh, you mean the black cross member that runs beneath your engine? yeah, you'll nee to remove that too. four bolts on one end, and 3 at the other. pry the little plastic caps off with a screwdriver to see the bolts... it's not fun getting it out, and even less fun getting it back in, but it must be done.

[Etak28]

you need to remove that plate altogether. It's about 6-7 bolts and a nut or two. There's also a bar that runs from that up to the intake manifold as a support. you'll need to loosen the bolt on the back of the intake manifold in order to move that support out of the way to remove that plate. it's a total pain in the ass. after you get all the bolts out, you'll probably still end up needing to beat with a hammer a bit...

yea i figured i would have to remove all that...... theres one bolt tho that is at the bottom of the plate and i loosened it but the frame gets in the way of pulling it out all the way... how did you guys get that one? im about to just cut it or chip away at that plate because idk how you would maneuver your transmission or your frame around that bolt lol??

oh, you mean the black cross member that runs beneath your engine? yeah, you'll nee to remove that too. four bolts on one end, and 3 at the other. pry the little plastic caps off with a screwdriver to see the bolts... it's not fun getting it out, and even less fun getting it back in, but it must be done.

haha oooooooooooooooooookkkkkkkkkkkkk, im very excited to finish this up now

ill keep ya guys posted

[1bwilson]

How are you addressing your tuning? Your installing all this stuff but I havent seen you mention anything about controling your fuel or timing.

[Etak28]

How are you addressing your tuning? Your installing all this stuff but I havent seen you mention anything about controling your fuel or timing.

Bought a Greddy e-manage... my friend is tuning it for me

[bccentaur3]

Did you get a wideband gauge yet?

[Etak28]

Did you get a wideband gauge yet?

na thats the thing ive really been looking for, i really need one thats not too pricey but still a necessity i kno

[bccentaur3]

he best bang for the buck and easy install would be the AEM eugo. I opted to go with the LC1 wideband unit with the DB gauge. Install is about the same, but a couple more wires.

[Etak28]

he best bang for the buck and easy install would be the AEM eugo. I opted to go with the LC1 wideband unit with the DB gauge. Install is about the same, but a couple more wires.

yea i was actually looking into gettin a used AEM, prosport is also coming out with one by next month so i was looking into that...

new oil pan is in and feed line run, now just need to get the -12an return setup

pictures will come soon... i promise lol

[Etak28]

yeah i am doing that right now im useing a 3an oil feed and a 12an return line. make sure to check with koracing they do have a 2nd gen oil feed fitting that goes to the block i would suggest that, its better and the right way to go. you can also tee of the sender but i think its better if you if you use the block feed..im not sure what size the stck 5sfe block fitting is...other then then that yes 6strng is right. man you should have told me i had some extra parts i could have sent you..to use for the oil fitting i had adapters. other then that i agree with 6stngs..do what you can man post it up i want to see

hey runnin, where did you get your -12an return line from?

[RUNNIN-LOW]

got it from a local tunner shop up here..if no shops there have any best bet is to order it on line. but im sure some shops around there has to have some on hand.

[Etak28]

got it from a local tunner shop up here..if no shops there have any best bet is to order it on line. but im sure some shops around there has to have some on hand.

okay ill see what i can pick up

[Etak28]

hey i was wondering if you have the option between two different part # of injectors?

do you have to get the rx7 460cc red tops part number 195500-2010?


or can you get the rx7 460cc red tops below
86-87 13B NT low square center 460cc red 195500-1350

the first are described as having a high rounded center and are what many of you guys use for this 5sfte project
and the second are as it says low square center....

or does anyone have any? or any suggestions on where to get them

[Muggs]

I believe the 1350's require a resistor. the 2010's are plug and play.

[Etak28]

I believe the 1350's require a resistor. the 2010's are plug and play.

if this is correct, how hard is the resistor to find/do?

[LewFX]

you can take off the harness and plug in the ends to the inside of the injector connectors, just get the right ones and its plug and play

[Etak28]

you can take off the harness and plug in the ends to the inside of the injector connectors, just get the right ones and its plug and play

so ur sayin i should get the 195500-2010 and not mess with ones that need resistors... k

[Etak28]

can any one verify that these are the correct 195500-2010 injectors for my car based off looks?
even tho i kno the high impedance 1350's look very similar

[presure2]

can any one verify that these are the correct 195500-2010 injectors for my car based off looks?
even tho i kno the high impedance 1350's look very similar

they look like em, but hard to say without being able to see the pt #.

[Etak28]

so i have a question...

i have the oil running thru my turbo but the turbo is not hooked up to my intercooler piping yet and i was just checking if it was working, however, i do have a hole where the wastegate will go and no dp yet.........

here's the question, is it bad if the turbo isn't spinning???????????????/

or is it because of the hole after the manifold but before the turbo at the wastegate adapter because there is no wastegate there yet?

im not panicing but im thinkin its bc of the hole or because a lack of back pressure.

any help???

[Etak28]

^^^^^^^^^^^ anyone?

[DEATH]

The escaping exhaust gases have two exits on your current setup - out the probably large hole for the WG or across the turbine blades which will require some of it's energy to be partially transformed into rotational energy on the Turbo shaft. Which way do you think they will go?
I would think a properly lubricated and free spinning Turbo would spin some tho - it is in the direct exhaust stream after all.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 27, 2008 - 3:46 PM

[Etak28]

The escaping exhaust gases have two exits on your current setup - out the probably large hole for the WG or across the turbine blades which will require some of it's energy to be partially transformed into rotational energy on the Turbo shaft. Which way do you think they will go?
I would think a properly lubricated and free spinning Turbo would spin some tho - it is in the direct exhaust stream after all.

thats what i would think, a little spin....SOMETHING....

[6strngs]

you have the the very large hole in the adaptor for an external wastegate which would allow most, if not all the air to escape. Not only that, but you also have a hole for an internal wastegate in the turbo (which becomes blocked off when you get the downpipe) which would probably allow any other air to escape. I also assume you are just cranking the engine over, not actually starting it, which means your rpm would be less than 500 rpm which means you have very little air coming through in the first place.

[Etak28]

you have the the very large hole in the adaptor for an external wastegate which would allow most, if not all the air to escape. Not only that, but you also have a hole for an internal wastegate in the turbo (which becomes blocked off when you get the downpipe) which would probably allow any other air to escape. I also assume you are just cranking the engine over, not actually starting it, which means your rpm would be less than 500 rpm which means you have very little air coming through in the first place.

yea thats what i was figuring... u kno it works tho right man?

oh yea and one more general question,,, for the downpipe i will need 3 bungs correct? 2 for the original sensors and 1 for my wideband.

i assume 3 since i believe you have to use the original two and im using a wideband


just correct me if im wrong

[6strngs]

you have the the very large hole in the adaptor for an external wastegate which would allow most, if not all the air to escape. Not only that, but you also have a hole for an internal wastegate in the turbo (which becomes blocked off when you get the downpipe) which would probably allow any other air to escape. I also assume you are just cranking the engine over, not actually starting it, which means your rpm would be less than 500 rpm which means you have very little air coming through in the first place.

yea thats what i was figuring... u kno it works tho right man?

oh yea and one more general question,,, for the downpipe i will need 3 bungs correct? 2 for the original sensors and 1 for my wideband.

i assume 3 since i believe you have to use the original two and im using a wideband


just correct me if im wrong

well, I never used it on a car, but the turbine spins by finger and it's completely rebuilt so I'd be very surprised if it didn't. and yeah, you'll need 3 o2 bungs. one of the stock ones requires the two-bolt flange, which you can get from koracing.net

[Etak28]

thanks again man

so how do you adjust timing on our car for tuning purposes? also what are you guys running through the rpms?

[Etak28]

dont fret guys, not that you were, but the turbooooooo works! i covered up the holes and it's all good now.

also oil is running through finally so everything is golden now.. pictures will come this weekend of the setup


now here is my list of things to do

--Fix oil pan leaks by getting new gasket-tomorrow
--Get dp with 3 bungs -get quote tomorrow
-------buy injectors
-------buy lc-1 kit for my prosport afr gauge

finish wiring and hooking up wastegate, bov, turbo timer, manual boost controller, and then the lc1 kit/gauges


ill keep ya posted!

[6G94celica]

hey man like i said hit me up when your working on it, ill come out there and help. i think i got some vac lines at home but there red and silver.

[Etak28]

hey man like i said hit me up when your working on it, ill come out there and help. i think i got some vac lines at home but there red and silver.

ya bro no doubt i will soon. just ordering a bunch of stuff right now tho

hey i have two more questions

1. Where did you run the hose that normally went into the bottom of the intake, i believe it's the tps

2. If you don't have an intake running off the turbo right away, what do you do with that line that goes from the valve cover to the intake??


I kno what to do with the Intake Air Sensor, however, those two lines^^^^^^^^ I'm not exactly sure. Help?

[presure2]

hey man like i said hit me up when your working on it, ill come out there and help. i think i got some vac lines at home but there red and silver.

ya bro no doubt i will soon. just ordering a bunch of stuff right now tho

hey i have two more questions

1. Where did you run the hose that normally went into the bottom of the intake, i believe it's the tps

2. If you don't have an intake running off the turbo right away, what do you do with that line that goes from the valve cover to the intake??
thats not the TPS, TPS is short for throttle position sensor.

its an air bypass hose, just cap it.

if you dont hook that hose up to some sort of intake, pre turbo, your car is going to smoke like crazy.


I kno what to do with the Intake Air Sensor, however, those two lines^^^^^^^^ I'm not exactly sure. Help?

[Etak28]

thanks manny

[Etak28]

here's some teaser pics of my setup--- haven't updated in a while, but everything is done except i need my downpipe made and a little wastegate bend... and tune












I Do have a question tho. What is the stock injector size for our 5sfe? I need to know what I pulled out for my tuning software, and for some reason i cant find it anywhere...

[Etak28]

k so from what i gathered from bccentaur3, 5sfe stock injectors are 213cc

going with that!

[6strngs]

these aren't the finished pics are they? I still see you need an intake, wastegate, downpipe, and oil filter relocation.

the oil lines look great though. and it's good to see my turbo will be put to good use . you have the top part of that T-fitting for the oil feed line blocked off, right?

[Etak28]

these aren't the finished pics are they? I still see you need an intake, wastegate, downpipe, and oil filter relocation.

the oil lines look great though. and it's good to see my turbo will be put to good use . you have the top part of that T-fitting for the oil feed line blocked off, right?

no they're not the finished pics. everything is done that u just asked about cept the wg and dp.


i'm having a problem tho, possibly with the 2 bar. It seems the 2 bar isn't reading anything but 1.35. when the 2 bar is plugged in im having huge idle problems and continuous idle surge from 500-800 rpms. when the 2 bar is unplugged it idles fine because it seems the computer is guessing that i should be around .85.

why is the 2 bar staying continuous at 1.35??? is the 2 bar broken? is there a way to manipulate it?

note that this is not under boost. I'm trying to tune it to make it drivable so i can get the dp made. i changed the settings for the injectors and am just trying to get the map to work.

i guess another thing i'm asking is, should a 2 bar be any different than a 1 bar in a stock setup. let's say i just swapped the map sensors on a stock car, would anything change? and if so how do i compensate for those changes?

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 2, 2008 - 9:04 PM

[6strngs]

these aren't the finished pics are they? I still see you need an intake, wastegate, downpipe, and oil filter relocation.

the oil lines look great though. and it's good to see my turbo will be put to good use . you have the top part of that T-fitting for the oil feed line blocked off, right?

no they're not the finished pics. everything is done that u just asked about cept the wg and dp.


i'm having a problem tho, possibly with the 2 bar. It seems the 2 bar isn't reading anything but 1.35. when the 2 bar is plugged in im having huge idle problems and continuous idle surge from 500-800 rpms. when the 2 bar is unplugged it idles fine because it seems the computer is guessing that i should be around .85.

why is the 2 bar staying continuous at 1.35??? is the 2 bar broken? is there a way to manipulate it?

note that this is not under boost. I'm trying to tune it to make it drivable so i can get the dp made. i changed the settings for the injectors and am just trying to get the map to work.

i guess another thing i'm asking is, should a 2 bar be any different than a 1 bar in a stock setup. let's say i just swapped the map sensors on a stock car, would anything change? and if so how do i compensate for those changes?

sounds like the MAP sensor might be broken. though you say if you unplug it alltogether, the car runs better? that'd odd because if I ever unpluged mine, the car would not run right at all. it would start, barely, and die after a second or two. The difference is, your car is OBDII, so the computer probably substitutes an approximate value if it becomes unplugged.

as for using a 1-bar, it'll work fine for anything up to 0 PSI... in other words, normal running when your manifold is under vacuum, it's fine. but any sort of pressure (boost) and the car will run like crap cause the sensor can't sense boost because it only goes up to 1 bar, on an absolute scale... where 1 bar simply means just atmospheric pressure of 14.7 PSI, which we usually consider 0 PSI and pressures less than atmospheric to be vacuum.

anyway, what are you using to tune?

[Etak28]

well that sucks. im using emanage blue to tune.

and yea that is what was happening. when the 2 bar was plugged in it was at constant 1.35 but when i unplugged it the car idled great at a guessed value.


This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 3, 2008 - 2:56 PM

[RUNNIN-LOW]

ok the map sensor isnt broken i was runing it in my car before i sent it out. it was working fine..so your sayin when you have the both map sensor off the car idles fine?? that is weird cause all of our cars just die right away or it idles for a min or two then dies??? so the car idles kinda hard huh have u tried and boost the baby at all or drivin the car??

[Etak28]

ok the map sensor isnt broken i was runing it in my car before i sent it out. it was working fine..so your sayin when you have the both map sensor off the car idles fine?? that is weird cause all of our cars just die right away or it idles for a min or two then dies??? so the car idles kinda hard huh have u tried and boost the baby at all or drivin the car??

when the map sensor is in, it's like it doesn't read anything, it just stays at a constant value. im not boosting yet just trying to get the car drivable to go to a shop quick. my car seems to guess the value when it's unplugged, but when the map is plugged in idle surge and everything about idle is horrible.

if its not the map sensor, what is wrong???

[bccentaur3]

Hey, John runninglow my buddy called me and told me about this. I really don't believe its your map. I think it would be because you don't have your downpipe connected. With the DP not connected that means your O2 isn't in. When the o2 sensor isn't in, your ecu isn't reading right. If you had a wideband you'll see that your afrs will bounce up and down.

But you don't have a wideband to read afrs because your dp isn't in nor is your o2.

[Muggs]

Have you installed larger injectors yet? My car would barely idle with the 2 bar MAP and stock injectors, but when I installed the 460s it improved dramatically.

[97celiman]

hey i know this is off-topic but what was the total cost of the project...no need for immediate answer just trying to get a feel for it

[bccentaur3]

Have you installed larger injectors yet? My car would barely idle with the 2 bar MAP and stock injectors, but when I installed the 460s it improved dramatically.

Greg, you could be right. btw did you get a new tv? Cable yet?

hey i know this is off-topic but what was the total cost of the project...no need for immediate answer just trying to get a feel for it

You can easily do it for 1500 depending on where you get your parts.

[97celiman]

and this was w/out doing anything to the engine (internals, pistons, block, spacers?) stuff like that...? for ex. im coming up on 140k...is that safe or should it get new head and whatnot before this is attempted?

[bccentaur3]

does your motor burn or leak any oil? If not do a compression test. If your compression is still good boost the crap out of it without any internal upgrades.

[Etak28]

Hey, John runninglow my buddy called me and told me about this. I really don't believe its your map. I think it would be because you don't have your downpipe connected. With the DP not connected that means your O2 isn't in. When the o2 sensor isn't in, your ecu isn't reading right. If you had a wideband you'll see that your afrs will bounce up and down.

But you don't have a wideband to read afrs because your dp isn't in nor is your o2.

i do have a wideband, but i believe me and runninglow figured it is a vacuum leak going to my bov since its not hooked up yet.
no worries tho anymore, im going to get the downpipe and a bend for the wastegate made tomorrow. ill keep ya guys posted.

Have you installed larger injectors yet? My car would barely idle with the 2 bar MAP and stock injectors, but when I installed the 460s it improved dramatically.

yea im all done with that, have 460s, i only need my dp and wg in yet

hey i know this is off-topic but what was the total cost of the project...no need for immediate answer just trying to get a feel for it

i spent around 2000 total, no internals. if i had to do it again tho, id prolly spend 2500 for a better setup but still no internals

This post has been edited by Etak28: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:48 PM

[97celiman]

how many miles do you have...im not downing your ability or knowledge, but how long do you expect it to hold up? everything i read says that since this is an F series head its not meant to handle boost (i know there are limits for it but i dont want more than like 240) or would you just run it until engine needs rebuilt anyway (which would be sooner considering added power)

does that make sense?

edit: and how many miles do you have?

This post has been edited by 97celiman: Dec 3, 2008 - 10:52 PM

[6strngs]

I turbo'ed mine around 160K, maybe a little less... lasted almost 5K miles... lol. but it wasn't really my engine's fault that my turbo blew up and sent metal into it

[Etak28]

mine has 110k. i expect it too last quite a while

[bccentaur3]

I boosted mine at 208,000 and then 1,000 later mine blew hahaha. Then I did the 3s swap.

[Etak28]

well, i guess that's it guys...

tried gettin my car a few miles down the road to a welding shop and didn't make it... thought the battery was done and replaced it and it still wouldn't work.
not the starter either, it's the engine im pretty sure...

guess im gonna find a way to get home with the car then part out.