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[brk34]

Just a general question for people who own celicas. What typically breaks on these cars (beside the wheel covers falling off/"borrowed")? Which of there items will make the car scrap? Thanks in advance

[GriffGirl]

Just a general question for people who own celicas. What typically breaks on these cars (beside the wheel covers falling off/"borrowed")? Which of there items will make the car scrap? Thanks in advance

User error or neglect. Toyotas are legendary for their reliability, with good reason. They're about as bullet proof as a car can be. But any idiot can run any car into the ground if they try hard enough.

Different models have different "weaknesses" but remember, that's all a matter of perspective. The ST (7A-FE) for example, has weak rods, which equates to if you're gonna try to race a 7A, you can reasonably expect to find one of said rods busting through your engine block. But if you drive it as a normal daily driver, in the manner for which it was built, the rods really shouldn't be any issue. The 7A also tends to burn oil a little more than other engines do.

As for the GT (5S-FE), I don't know, I don't drive one so I've never really payed any attention to what its weaknesses might be. I imagine its weaknesses are probably not a whole lot different than a 7AFE, but I honestly can't say.

It's my understanding that the SS models (super strut) have issues with the suspension and it breaks fairly easily compared to the MacPherson system. But since those aren't available in the US, it's a non issue for you.

This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Dec 19, 2008 - 7:23 PM

[GriffGirl]

Check this link out too
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com...ta-celica-2.htm

[TerryE]

Oh, let's see here, I have A 90ST coupe and a 97GT convertible. (both have manual gearbox and and have 4A-FE and 5S-FE engines and +250K and +150K miles respectively.)(GT was purchased with 111000 miles on the clock).


The answer depends on the mileage, though toyota's ARE nearly bullet-proof, some of my experiences have been:

Disk pads >100K miles, this has been typical since I had my 1977 Celica GT.

ST GT Valve Seals (cap on top of valve guide) start to seep a little after about 125K to 150K, is not as big a deal to live with. As replacement of the seals requires removal of the cylinder head and the process of replacing them will eat up around two to three days of down-time.

ST GT Exhaust system - unlikely under 200K miles as the system is stainless steel.
Flex pipe is a weak point (under woven steel section). Flex pipe can be cut out and new welded in at a competent muffler shop. (Mine cost $80 installed instead of $250 for Factory down-pipe.)

Engine Oil Level is Very Important! Toyota motors are very well made. Though repeated neglect of letting the
oil level get a quart low is going to Hurt your Wallet, Bad!

Oil change interval is not 3000 miles unless(from the manual) unless you're are doing door-to-door service or extreme amounts of idling the engine. Well if you like paying $3 for a Quart of oil! nuff said.
No Flames Please. (this is my experience, your beliefs are... yours).


Toyotas in general last a lot longer if they are driven, letting them sit for days is not a good idea.

The BGB (Big Green Book - Toyota service manual 1990 Celica, normal oil change interval is..... 7500 miles).

ST 135K miles
One Really Big Thing that took forever to troubleshoot, the steering universal joint at the firewall.
Steering would get stiff when driving normally but loosen up to normal after turning steering back and forth several times.
This is common enough that the dealer keeps them in stock, and said they sell a lot of them. About $120.



Some other things I've had to fix /replace.

ST approx 170K miles Battery (90ST) lost one of the cells and didn't have enough amps to crank with.

ST 190K miles Alternator got a bit of sand stuck in brush holder causing Alt light to turn on. About 2 Hours to take apart and and clean brushes.

ST 215K miles replaced brushes myself, Cost for brushes: about 23 dollars. 250,000 miles on original
alternator(knocks on wood)


ST Replaced cap and plug wires a couple of times(w/ factory units(don't ever think it made the difference I hoped for)).

ST Rotor replacement always helps (use toyota parts).

ST Radiator 230K miles, was'nt leaking but 1/2 of the fins were gone. Dealer wanted for $400 -crazy
got identical unit, MIC (made in china) from local auto parts store for $90. Exact fit.
Radiator hoses about that time (1st new set).

ST Water pump at 127K only replaced it because I had the motor out, Due to low oil levels and ignorance caused the #4 rod bearing to die. Replaced clutch, pressure plate and bearing because it was accessible,
(it still had plenty of meat on it).

ST fuel filter (under charcoal canister) replaced once at 140K miles, came out easy, attempted
replacing at 225K miles, things went from really bad to worse. Lower fitting was very difficult to loosen, when it
did, it was still stiff (warning signs going off here!!, stop and check! Didn't Check).

Ended up twisting fuel line in half, replacement of fuel line filter-to-tank major pain, new steel line cost close to $100 and took about two to three days to replace. Upon buying a new filter at dealer, parts manager said they didn't sell many because gas these days is rarely dirty enough to clog the filter.

GT Windshield washer pump. 128K Oddly enough it stopped working, dealer wanted $75-80 for new one,
got one at Auto Zone for $35.00. I know, but the dealer price was a rip-off.

GT 145K passenger side outer CV joint boot split at inner fold seam, (stunned! have had 4 Fwd toyotas in the family and this is the first time I ever saw this happen). Replaced entire right drive shaft, (took less time) with one
made by EMPI (European Motor Parts Inc.) Dealer wanted $450+ dollars ( yes, I checked Conicelli's),
Got mine for $60.00 (+$15.00 core charge) for the whole drive shaft including the center bearing. If I get rich, I'll get the toyota part, right now it's been in for 3wks.
and no problems.


GT 8 speaker system, both subwoofers and woofers, foam speaker surround is rotting out.
GT FactoryCD Player skips easily especially in winter when Heater is on.

Rust

RuST

RUST also known as ASSS- Acute Salt Sensitivity Syndrome. If you live in the Northen States e.g. Michigan

Salted roads are very rough on toyotas, Washing the salt off your baby at 15 degrees is not the most pleasurable experience but doing rust repair is an unbelievable PIT-. It is so much easier to wash it then to practice bondo, metal replacement and painting.

That galvanized steel layer on your is not as durable as you may wish.


My experience is that if its difficult to get to/change e.g. clutch, water pump, use Toyota parts, they are almost always better than aftermarket parts.


Okay Everybody, let's get your input!!

[Stambo]

So far i haven't had any problems with my 7a-fe, i've auto-crossed it numerous times. The car still has no signs of anything failing anytime. I also just replaced all the belts and did a coolant flush (myself). My friend and I replaced the clutch and flywheel. I gotta get a new driver side wheel bearing soon. But, from working at a shop, i rarely see toyotas come in for real big problems, just getting tune ups really.

I agree with TerryE, rust is terrible on the fenders. I usually try to wash the car on random warm days in the winter so i can really get the under body of the car, but sadly its been to cold to do that so i gotta go to the automatic ones.

As long as you treat your car good, check the fluids all the time, and change the fluids when needed i figure your car will last as long as you want it to last.

[trdproven]

typical problems of the door design is rusting towards the bottom.

[brk34]

Thanks for the tips so far only one of the speakers has shored out so I think the car will last a long time, thanks for the link GriffGirl. Although it some times leaks when it rains. The car sees only a few hundred miles a month anyway.

This post has been edited by brk34: Dec 20, 2008 - 1:09 PM

[Euphoria]

hey, all cars have problems, sometimes you will be lucky and other times you will be unlucky, Ok I've had my ST204 since about 175 000km and now it has 200 000km and things Ive had go wrong are...

Water pump and CV joints went around when I got the car, water pump should basically be replaced with timing belt anyway and CV joints go on all cars.

automatic Aerial always break eventually in these cars.

Ive had to replace the belt on the alternator/air con, a little valve from the injectors to the head snapped and I had an air leak, A radiator sensor snapped because of age.

Developed a rear main oil seal leak as I changed to synthetic when the car was getting old which wasn't wise, but rear main oil seals always go on these cars.

Motor mounts front and rear are gone.

Throw out bearing is also another one that is famous on our cars and sometimes can make a lot of noise, no big problem just not a great sound.

Shocks blew shortly after I got the car but that's 14 years on them.

Interior wise I had a bit of sun damage on the centre console and the side of the doors, the gear boot also was ripping.

Sounds like many problems but just been fairly unlucky and the car has never not started, its always been able to run fine with these problems.

[jimmykay]

only problems i've had '99 GT about 145k miles
rust on the bottom of the doors
I just noticed last week when washing my car that I have a slight leak (when under pressure) on the windshield seal.

I've replaced a passenger side front wheel bearing, and clutch/flywheel

[Cutrara]

typical problems of the door design is rusting towards the bottom.

Drain holes in the door are too small and get clogged with dirt. A simple fix if your door is not already rusted out is to drill the holes out slightly larger, and apply a rust sealer to any bare metal.

[macavely]

I have broken maybe parts on 2 6gc in the past 8 years. So have been my own stupidity. Other have been WTF happened. Let me give you a list of the things that have broken on me

Steering Knuckle 2 times

Wheel bearings 3 times

Axel 1 time

Radio Stock . 2 times

Driver Side Seat Ripped at the stitch. both leather and fabric

Plastic trim around radio cracked

Rusted nutz and bolts . I'm still replacing them .

EGR sensor. Well it went back after 240K miles so that really doesn't count . lol

Wheel Split in Half . After market not stock .

Headlights leak . 4 sets.

Tail Lights leak . 3 sets

tie rod . snapped 2 times

Front Strut bent

Front strut Cracked

rear brake calipers rusted closed

I know I have had a lot more stuff brake down on me. but the celi always kept on rolling .