Mike's ST205 GT4 build thread, update: tuned to 200kw Options

[delusionz]

1996 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205, Super White.

Current specs:


Engine



Engine: Toyota 3S-GTE (Rev 3) 2.0L 4-cylinder

Block: JE pistons 86.5mm, Eagle rods, ACL race bearings, ARP main studs, ARP head studs, Decked, Bored & Balanced.

Head: 3 angle valve grind, factory cams

Intake: TTT intake, K&N pod filter

Turbo: Garrett GT2860RS Disco Potato

Intercooler: factory water cooled topmount, TRD rad cap

BOV: HKS SSQV

Wastegate: Tial MVR 44mm external

Exhaust: TTT manifold, TTT full 3" exhaust

Fuel: factory fuel rail, factory 540cc injectors, factory 220LPH fuel pump

Ignition: NGK BKR7EIX iridium plugs, factory dizzy, igniter, etc

ECU/Electronics: factory ecu, HKS EVC boost control

Cooling: alloy twincore rad, TRD thermostat 71c, TRD rad cap 1.3bar, Redline hoses, TTT header tank

Oil: TTT catch tank, factory oil & trans cooler

Power: TBA





Driveline



Drivetrain: 4WD 50/50 split, viscous centre, torque sensing rear, open up front.

Flywheel: factory fly machined, ARP flywheel bolts

Clutch: Clutchmasters FX400 2100lb pressure plate, 4 button ceramic disc

Mounts: Nolathane polyurethane engine & gearbox mounts

Fluids: Redline gearbox & diff oil





Suspension/Brakes



Suspension: BC Gold coilovers

Brakes (Front): 4 piston calipers, 315mm slotted rotors, factory pads

Brakes (Rear): 2 piston calipers, 315mm rotors, factory pads





Wheels/Tyres



Wheels: OZ Crono 16x8" et38

Tyres: Bridgestone Potenza GIII 205/55R16





Exterior



Bodykit: facelift sideskirts, spoiler deleted

Lighting: facelift high beams, facelift tail lights





Interior



Controls: Momo Race Shift knob

Instrumentation: HKS 2-bar boost gauge, red led dash bulbs





ICE



Receiver: Sony Xplod CDX-GT290S cd/mp3/aux

Speakers (Front): Sony Xplod XF-GTF1626 6.5" 2-way

Speakers (Rear): Sony Xplod XF-GTF1626 6.5" 2-way





Started out like this;















This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 13, 2012 - 5:25 PM

[Smaay]

i hate you

[WWSideWinder]

Way Cool and oh how i envy you and your GT4 4wd

When do we start moding the interior lights? :-)

[Valo666]

looks good, how much u buy it for?? And im just guessin, but you bought it off trademe.co.nz right??

[delusionz]

looks good, how much u buy it for?? And im just guessin, but you bought it off trademe.co.nz right??

NZD9K

[kezza-q]

Welcome to the GT-Four family, looks tidy. Do you have performance plans or mainly cosmetics?

This post has been edited by kezza-q: Feb 17, 2009 - 7:56 PM

[trdproven]

why did you steal my car?

[Rusty]

good luck looks good, IMO it needs the spoiler to complete the GT-Four look
cant wait to see it in palmy

[delusionz]

I've got the GT-Four spoiler (well I still need to pick it up) but the holes on the boot don't match, will sort this soon, repairing my SS-III is a higher priority before I even start to try and understand all these fancy new things that I've never had in a Celica before.

Anyone have any maintenance tips for me? Or anything I should know about owning my first Turbo/4WD car? It feels like the other Celicas were just toys and this is the real deal and I don't know much about the extra things I've got now apart from man this thing goes fast and stops fast and it feels like a tank in comparison.

Also, I've got no light up bits at all? The coin box, the cigarette lighter ring and the ignition barrel ring do not illuminate

[delusionz]

Welcome to the GT-Four family, looks tidy. Do you have performance plans or mainly cosmetics?

The aim is to keep it completely stock but tidy as a GT-Four in all it's glory as Toyota intended it to be. Stock GT-Fours are rare as hens teeth.



EDIT: Scratch that. I've owned this car for 10 months now, stock aint for me. This car has changed alot since day 1, and will change a whole lot more from now into the future.

This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 20, 2009 - 9:02 AM

[WWSideWinder]

So STOCK GT-Four are you going to change the lights or leave them Green + Not stock as you already have an extra boost guage. LOL

[TRDGT4]

looks good mate you'll be having some NOW!!! and if you need any info i'm glad to help

[delusionz]

*bump*

New mods

Big thank you to Donald (WWSideWinder) for installing fuel door and boot lid solenoids in my car.

The boot and trunk popper handle was snapped off by the previous owner of the car, it gave me great difficulty every time I stopped at a gas station.

I now have a two way momentary rocker switch mounted next to my fuse lid on the drivers side

1 = boot, 2 = fuel

[delusionz]

[95celgt]

i love those stock wheels!!

[WWSideWinder]

No worries Mate but you gonna have to clean up around the Fuel Cap, I left some dirty prints on it.

How is the car today is the smoke better?

[delusionz]

Just went T10 crazy, got 3 reds in the dash, 2 whites in the park lights and another 2 whites in the number plate lights. Just took a whole lot of photos but I'm lacking a USB -> Micro-usb cable, sucks because I thought it looks pretty awesome.

all changes to date:
xenon blue H3 fog lights
removed bonnet heat shielding crap
light up ignition ring~transparent piece from 5th gen
red led gauge background
white led park lights
white led license plate lights

some other work in progress is water spray bar with boot mounted water tank for the w2a-ic heat exchanger

bidded $10 for this spoiler.

will update this post with t10 led photos as soon as I can.

[delusionz]

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jan 23, 2010 - 9:00 AM

[WWSideWinder]

Looking Good mate

[delusionz]

2 Watt tail light bulbs (2W on brake light, 0.something on tail light). Light comes out slightly deeper in redness, no visibility loss & can be left on overnight. Best of all they don't heat up and melt the sockets.



Right tail piece:- Left bulb new LED, Right bulb original KoTTo bulb





White festoon bulb




White BA9s





I purchase my bulbs from ledbulbs.co.nz

This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 23, 2009 - 6:40 PM

[Rusty]

WWoahh those new lights you've just put in look real nice and bright!! cost much?

[delusionz]

A couple shots from removing sound deadening







Here's half a pile of crap gone


This post has been edited by delusionz: Aug 28, 2009 - 9:56 PM

[delusionz]

A couple new fun bits for the GT4

[delusionz]

Stripped down


Naked boot


Traitor!


Buttshot


Beautiful Celica

[whatthe]

Such a lovely gt4. I really want yours.

[WWSideWinder]

Dude that looks awesome

All you need now is some guages.......


Call me

[3WayStunna]

Lookin good there bro!! So when are you gonna add that boost controller and such! I promise that youll be loving the 1.1bar!!

[delusionz]

GT-Four updates...

* New Windscreen replacement, this one has a nice tint band across the top. This is to fix a 20cm crack from a stone chip.

* New rubber on all fours, Bridgestone Potenza RE001 Adrenalin 215/55R16

Urgently required...

* New left rear wheel bearing replacement due to bearing play. (Already booked in for Monday)

* Oil & filter change - Castrol Magnatec

Still to do...

* New full aluminum radiator due to cracked top tank.

* Gearbox oil change - Redline Gearbox Oil 75W-90NS GL-5 WITHOUT lsd friction modifier













This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 24, 2009 - 11:20 PM

[Rusty]

so nomore 225 on the wheels? what happen to your intercooler?

I'd be careful if you think your wheel bearing is playing up, might be doing damage to your brakes (happened to my brothers EP82)

when you finally get round to do your radiator use toyota longlife coolant I highly recommend that stuff.

[delusionz]

There are no 225 Potenzas in the country at the moment so I got the 215's, to be honest they dont look as good but they seem to hold the road better in the corners.

As for the wheel bearing play, I've had it checked, it's very minimal, but it was enough for to fail a warrant.

The 2000 Twin Entry Turbo sticker was worn out and theres heaps of chips in the paint on the intercooler so I'm half way thru changing it to a brushed aluminum look. I'm going to give it a very light coat of aluminum colour spray paint and put on a TTE sticker or something.

I always use the toyota red stuff in the radiator and charge cooler, castrol brake fluid & castrol magnatec oil, just got a genuine toyota oil filter, I don't use supercheap for the gt4

[delusionz]

a light coat of rattle can aluminum. look like 1998?



This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 26, 2009 - 9:45 PM

[SwissFerdi]

I like that aluminum look. Wish there was a faux-aluminum set for 6GC's.

[Rusty]

hmm came out pretty good. just as long as it doesn't chip right? You know now your going to have to do the rest of it

yea the IC would look pretty tidy all polished up.

[delusionz]

L/Rear wheel bearing done! No more play. My odometer went up 40kms while in the shop... someone must have enjoyed my GT4

[SwissFerdi]

My odometer went up 40kms while in the shop... someone must have enjoyed my GT4

Dude, I would have KILLED. That's ridiculous.

[Euphoria]

L/Rear wheel bearing done! No more play. My odometer went up 40kms while in the shop... someone must have enjoyed my GT4

yeah thats ridiculous, reminds me my dads friend sent his lancia delta integrale to get some welding done and when he got it back he noticed the car was overheating cause some person took it out and didn't put the extra fans on and the brakes were smoking! and just obvious that they took it out and thrashed it.

[SwissFerdi]

Dude, I remember ripping Tahiti up with that car in Gran Turismo 3...that car is a beast.

[delusionz]

[Rusty]

40km's thats along distance to check a wheel bearing, I wonder if they brought it down my ways since I saw this white GT4 locally though needed lots of TLC outside, sounded nice though.

those came out tidy, whats next?

[whatthe]

Pics of the console trim back on?

[delusionz]

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the 3rd piece to the side of the steering wheel, the markings are painted on instead of embossed.

BTW: 1998 factory silver pieces are painted too, I've seen them wear out back to black. They too have the painted markings on the 3rd piece painted instead of embossed, it's weird, like the production lines, they forgot to put the markings in the mold or something?

I may just print 0 1 2 and make a stencil. I'll figure it out.


At the mechanical & tyre shop I found a guy who knows a little bit of history on my GT4, He tells me many professionals have worked on my car in the past including a Toyota employee who worked on it privately. I also found out that in the last 40,000 kms before I bought it somebody had neglected a cambelt change and oil change (Ironically my turbo blew up 1 week after I bought it with a report stating clogged oil galleries & contamination due to neglect) and apparently I'm not the 1st to have the turbo replaced in this GT4.

There is minor body damage on my car (L/Rear Guard & R/Front Guard) from someone having a parking accident 2 owners ago, though for some reason the front crash bar is bent even though I'm assured this car hasn't been in an accident.

[delusionz]

I'm not the best photographer, but up close in real life you can still see the detail of the plastic, it's still obviously coated in paint but unlike other painted interiors I've seen, this isnt ruined by a glossy thick coat that just looks cheap and tacky.

It's not quite the same as the 1998 OEM plastics, they seem to have more Grey in them and aren't so reflective, but still I think it's pretty close.

This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 28, 2009 - 4:40 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Damn man, I like that silver...another thing I might have to steal.

[delusionz]

Windscreen replacement - DONE

New rubber on all 4 corners - DONE

L/R Wheel bearing replacement - DONE

Oil & Oil filter change - DONE

Radiator - Top tank blew off!!! I knew this would happen, but NOW?? How did I subconsciously know that?

Still to do...

Gearbox oil change

Spark plugs?

[delusionz]

A few days after thinking about the urgency of a new radiator, it blew it's top. I rushed to clean the stained paintwork before I took pictures







After trying to refil it, It just pissed out again revealing the location of the crack, It's major


The crack


Off to the shop with this, will get it back tomorrow morning.


Good time to do this


This post has been edited by delusionz: Sep 29, 2009 - 7:04 PM

[delusionz]

Got my radiator back from the shop this morning and put it back into the car, everything seems to be okay, so warmed it up and got my fix of boost

Do it yourself labour - FREE
New radiator top tank - $165NZD
3x 1L Toyota Long Life Coolant Concentrate - $56.80NZD
Getting your fix of GT4 boost after 2 days of withdrawl - PRICELESS

[SwissFerdi]

Getting your fix of GT4 boost

I hate you.

[azian_advanced]

was the crack really that long?

[WWSideWinder]

Hay Dud PM me I haev some guages doing nothing at the moment
Oil Temp
Oil Press
Water Temp

Call or pm me.

[delusionz]

Getting your fix of GT4 boost

I hate you.

You're living in the wrong country buddy.

was the crack really that long?

Indeed, the whole thing was brittle and discoloured for a long time. It was a very gradual process - I live in a cold climate and the 3s-gte generates alot of heat, and I drive boost several times a day and when the plastic becomes the weakest breaking point, weaker than the overflow spring in the filler cap, this is what happens.

Hay Dud PM me I haev some guages doing nothing at the moment
Oil Temp
Oil Press
Water Temp

Call or pm me.

I don't have a water T or a sandwich plate though?

[WWSideWinder]

"I don't have a water T or a sandwich plate though?"

Cheap get it from Jonv82....

This guage set "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244957052.htm"

Plate ($40) "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244788279.htm" 4/3 UNF for our car.

Water T ($24.99) "http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Gauges/auction-244889292.htm" get the gold or red
I have the blue 30mm and it's a bit on the small side but not leakin but the gold 32mm or red 34mm would be better.

Guages and holder cost me $9 x 3 for cups and $58 x 3 for the guages - They are not doing any thing now so for a layout of about $70 (+ new filter) you can use them.

I will not ask for them back as I like the ones I have now.

:-)

[azian_advanced]

most of the time radiators will only leave a small hair line crack. although maybe that's because the non-gtfours end tanks are of a composite type material, while gt-fours are thermoplastic which is why when it fails, it leaves a larger crack. i noticed this while looking at several gt4 engine bays how the rads were glossier, and appeared to be made of plastic.

[chacha]

maybe to save a little bit more weight perhaps....metal vs plastic

[delusionz]

most of the time radiators will only leave a small hair line crack. although maybe that's because the non-gtfours end tanks are of a composite type material, while gt-fours are thermoplastic which is why when it fails, it leaves a larger crack. i noticed this while looking at several gt4 engine bays how the rads were glossier, and appeared to be made of plastic.

Must be different JDM vs USDM? Because my GT4 shares an identical radiator P/N as my old SS-I and SS-III.

[Rusty]

Yeah SS-II/III/GT4 share the same one.... (I see heaps of people running to order the JDM radiators now )
16400-7A080 MT SS-II/III/GT4 ST202/ ST202C /ST205
16400-7A090 AT SS-II/III ST202 / ST202C
16400-7A060 MT SS-I ST202/ST203
16400-7A070 AT SS-I ST202/ST203
^ from Toyodiy
I hope you didn't do any damage to your engine with your radiator blowing off

This post has been edited by Rusty: Oct 1, 2009 - 11:06 PM

[delusionz]

More genuine parts...

Thermostat & Gasket




So after putting my car back together my heater stopped working, my engine takes years to warm up, and my nice red coolant turned to poo brown instantly, I tried to flush it and use up my remaining Toyota LL coolant it still turned to poo brown and my heater still doesn't work. I took it to the radiator shop that replaced my top tank and they tell me my thermostat is fu*ked and that I need a new one and to flush it with the thermostat housing off. Oh joy I thought, another $60 on coolant, luckily the thermostat and gasket were alot cheaper than I expected ($40 all up.)

So hopefully when I get around to doing this, it will be the last time I have to drain and refill my radiator in a while.

[azian_advanced]

you should buy a bottle of coolant system flush while you're at it. a bottle costs $5 and i got more heat from my heater after doing it. plus it's better for the waterpump and radiator that you're running 'clean' coolant without that gunky brown stuff mixed into it.

[schmooot]

Is there somewhere online I can buy an intake like yours? or was it a local source?

[Rusty]

it's a k&n filter, would easy to get hold of?

[delusionz]

Is there somewhere online I can buy an intake like yours? or was it a local source?

It's just a DIY with a K&N.
3" stainless steel pipe (easiest to get from ebay)
3x 3" hose clamps (from auto parts store),
3" silicone joiner (from performance parts store)
K&N filter (ebay or performance parts store, these are expensive so try find a good deal)

Also you'll need 2 mini filters, IIRC the top one was 19mm (oil breather) and the bottom one (idler breather) was 15mm.

This setup is far from ideal anyways, It runs like **** but it sounds cool. It's better to have the bov return the air down the throat of the turbo, or atleast get a 50/50 split of atmo and plumb back, I just don't have the welding tools or skills to do that so my intake is still an ongoing project.

I think Apexi have an ST205/ST215 kit that has the bov return flange on it, I've seen it on some cars, thats the ideal way. EDIT: Sorry it's Blitz here's what I'm talking about

POLSIHED ST205 GT4 HKS/BLITZ INTAKE SYSTEM

New postby jap-spec-performance on 19 Aug 2009 21:54
ST205 GT4 POLISHED BLITZ/HKS INTAKE SYSTEM, THIS WAS ON OUR TUNER CAR WHEN IT ARRIVED AND WE GAVE IT A QUICK POLISH FOR THAT LITTLE EXTRA BLING IN THE ENGINE BAY.

THE FILTER HAS BEEN OUT CHECKED AND CLEANED.



£60 ono + P&P

This post has been edited by delusionz: Oct 15, 2009 - 1:40 AM

[delusionz]

So once again, I've flushed my cooling system... This is getting annoying...

Yesterday I tried to get the thermostat job done, didn't have the right tools to get the thermostat housing off so just made do with a flush. My heater was working better after that but my engine temperature was dropping very low (less than 1/4) at speeds over 80kph.

Today I tried again, this time I got the thermostat housing off, I had to remove the radiator and push the fuse boxes to the side. I flushed the system with the garden hose and installed the new Toyota Genuine thermostat (82 deg C) and rubber O ring seal, put it all back together and filled it with 2.5L of coolant, the topped up the rest with water. Fired up the engine with the heater running and kept topping up the water until full.

The result, engine got up to temp as normal, checked for leaks - no leaks so far, but heater has no hot air at all??? It's now 10pm at night so I called it a day, didn't go out for a test drive incase I get stuck. Will see what happens tomorrow. I checked my diagnostic codes by shorting TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic box and turning the key to "ON" without starting it. I had error code 34 (fuel cut due to excessive boost -- already knew it was overboosting) and error code 54 (intercooler water pump or low intercooler level -- this comes up all the time, just top up the cooler and clear the codes).

Hopefully everything comes right tomorrow...

[schmooot]

Is there somewhere online I can buy an intake like yours? or was it a local source?

It's just a DIY with a K&N.
3" stainless steel pipe (easiest to get from ebay)
3x 3" hose clamps (from auto parts store),
3" silicone joiner (from performance parts store)
K&N filter (ebay or performance parts store, these are expensive so try find a good deal)

Also you'll need 2 mini filters, IIRC the top one was 19mm (oil breather) and the bottom one (idler breather) was 15mm.

This setup is far from ideal anyways, It runs like **** but it sounds cool. It's better to have the bov return the air down the throat of the turbo, or atleast get a 50/50 split of atmo and plumb back, I just don't have the welding tools or skills to do that so my intake is still an ongoing project.

I think Apexi have an ST205/ST215 kit that has the bov return flange on it, I've seen it on some cars, thats the ideal way. EDIT: Sorry it's Blitz here's what I'm talking about

POLSIHED ST205 GT4 HKS/BLITZ INTAKE SYSTEM

New postby jap-spec-performance on 19 Aug 2009 21:54
ST205 GT4 POLISHED BLITZ/HKS INTAKE SYSTEM, THIS WAS ON OUR TUNER CAR WHEN IT ARRIVED AND WE GAVE IT A QUICK POLISH FOR THAT LITTLE EXTRA BLING IN THE ENGINE BAY.

THE FILTER HAS BEEN OUT CHECKED AND CLEANED.



£60 ono + P&P

very good, thanks for the info

[delusionz]

A little video of some extra silver and red bits

[delusionz]

The new thermostat is going well, No matter what the conditions my engine temperature is maintaining the right temp and my heater is working, even when the car is moving!

Here's a video of the old thermostat though, I can't figure out whats wrong with it, It opens in a container of hot water and it closes under cold water.

[Rusty]

didn't your radiator get fixed. might be a fault in ther??? blockage or air bubbles else where?

This post has been edited by Rusty: Oct 22, 2009 - 12:45 AM

[delusionz]

The new thermostat fixed my engine operating temp problem and my heater, all is fine now.

I just don't understand what is wrong with the old one, aside from it looks like crap.

It doesn't open under luke warm water or cold water, it just opens in boiling water which is how it should be. Maybe all it needed was a good clearing out with everything removed?

[schmooot]

air bubbles in the system will cause all sorts of weird problems. It could very well be that just opening everything up and flushing again fixed your problem rather than changing the 'stat. Next time you drain the coolant though you need to jack the front end of the car way up when you refill the system....this allows any air bubbles to escape as the rad fill tube will then be the highest point. Just FYI

[Rusty]

on a completely different note whats the size for your space saver in your boot?

[delusionz]

on a completely different note whats the size for your space saver in your boot?

T125/70D17

[delusionz]

This post has been edited by delusionz: Apr 21, 2012 - 3:07 AM

[SwissFerdi]

At first I thought you meant cleaning...I was like that's still dirty as hell!

Nice touches though, it would be nice if someone made faux-aluminum dash trim.

[delusionz]

Hehe yeah needs a vacuum, The aluminum painted trims is what I've finished off.

I got bored with all black, esp since the door sill and the gear knob are silver / aluminum. I'm happy with it the way it is now, I didn't want to get carried away with it, as I've seen in other interiors where they've painted too much.

[SwissFerdi]

I would probably only do the door handle, switch bezel, and radio bezel. How did you do the gauge trim though? And how did you paint everything else, actually? Looks very good!

[delusionz]

The gauge trim is the 2nd layer behind the clear plastic screen.

[Rusty]

looks tidy bro , hope you used good stuff so it doesn't chip off, and waste all your good work. Yeah theres a line, from tidy up some areas to looking like the ex has emptyed a paint tin in the car.


+1 for a vacuum

[SwissFerdi]

And I'm wondering how your door panels got warped...right in front of the handle. Looks like there are tiny dents/impressions.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Nov 13, 2009 - 12:29 AM

[delusionz]

The door card was like that when i bought the car. I presume someone before me drove with the windows down in the rain.

[delusionz]

Our SS-III and GT-Four Celicas after some waxing.






This post has been edited by delusionz: Nov 26, 2009 - 9:51 PM

[Rusty]

ahh nice and clean

[Quidam]

wow dude 2 Celica's and the best of the best as well :-)

I *almost* considered this SSIII on trademe

But the fact that it was
1) Out of town
2) More expensive
3) Not a red GT4 (lol)

swayed me away from it. But still, super low k's and looks mint..

How "different" are the SS3 and GT4 to drive? I expect the extra power and AWD makes the GT4 quite a different beast..

[delusionz]

They both drive very similarly around Auckland. The SS-III is a little bit more nimble, steering and clutch isn't as heavy and you can definitely feel it has less weight, the 3S-GE is no slouch either and being the SS-III with Superstrut Suspension and front LSD the steering is just as responsive and the traction is almost as good as the GT4.

The similarities end when you get out into the country, the GT4 does turn into an entirely different beast. I've seen V8 Holdens in my rear view mirror almost wipe out trying to keep up with me in the twisties meanwhile the GT4 is just going about its business like its no problem.

Overall the SS-III is impressive, but anything the SS-III can do the GT4 eats it for breakfast lol.

[delusionz]

Bit excited about whats coming next, so I prepared a sneak preview

[Rusty]

$40 what a great buy how much did that guy want for just the blocks? lol


have you got it yet?

gosh the NZ'ers have been busy this week

[delusionz]

Spoiler showed up this morning

The middle hole here lines up to the rear nut in the spoiler, and perfect on the other side too



This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 3:12 AM

[delusionz]

I decided to sand off the middle studs on the bottom of the wrc extenders to save drilling extra holes and I bolted it down, it all lines up perfectly.

Now the plan is to use the rest of the guide from 97lestyousay (cheers for that, good writeup.) In the mean time heres what it looks like...









This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 5:19 PM

[Quidam]

Dude it looks awesome.

I wonder if you can get it rebadged?!?

Alternatively, you could replace the engine driveline

[delusionz]

Spoiler debadged, cleaned and mounted. Drilling was relatively straight forward, now just needs to be painted.



This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 4, 2009 - 5:18 PM

[Tech-Nics]

Looks good. We did the same thing on my wife's 96 ST. Instead of drilling new holes to match the blocks standard slots. We bolted the wing down with 4 dry wall screws each side. We tried to bondo the old holes and the middle one but after a few weeks the bondo was starting to sink in where the middle hole is and the two side ones.

[robby]

Spoiler debadged, cleaned and mounted. Drilling was relatively straight forward, now just needs to be painted.

Use "GT four" sticker on raiser block will better look..............

[Rusty]

Yeah thats what he's planning to do check 2nd post at the top of the page again


you sure it'll be secure? with just 2 bolts? I'd hate for it to fly off on you.

[delusionz]

I drilled it, theres 4 bolts in there now. -- I just fit it on with 2 bolts yesterday just to take photos and see what it looks like, Didn't drive it though.

2 stock holes fit, so left unmodified, then I used that as a guide to drilling the other 2 holes by lining up a headless bolt onto the paint to make a little dot marking where to drill. It came out pretty good, then I had to make a 12mm hole underneath it so that the 10mm socket fits aswell as the washer.

Haven't been on a high speed run yet, But even at low speeds the car feels totally different.

Its a little bit rattly on the boot at the moment as I haven't yet ordered new protector pads, the old ones are compressed and ripped. Will get these along with the GT-Four badges when I go to Toyota next.

I need to get it painted white, I'm pondering leaving the riser blocks silver?

This post has been edited by delusionz: Dec 5, 2009 - 3:26 AM

[Quidam]

I need to get it painted white, I'm pondering leaving the riser blocks silver?

Yeah, my riser-blocks are a little faded, so I'm also wondering whether to get them painted black or stay with red.

To be honest, I think it will look good either way (your car and mine)

[delusionz]

Been a while since the last update,

Haven't yet painted the spoiler, but installed an ST202 Toms magic lip (already super white), It looks a bit funny being for a 96 st202 bumper, but matches the lines of the sideskirts, Will get photo soon.
(Actually considering hacking it up and turning it into Toms splitters lol)

Car is encountering problem after problem, My superstruts are worn and making noise while cornering and my front shocks are busted + a few minor issues.

And it randomly smokes like a chimney People reckon it's my turbo seals but there is no sign of fresh oil in my intercooler and compressor outlet, and sometimes resetting the immobiliser or punching the throttle fixes it. Neither my oil nor my coolant are mixed either...

[Rusty]

nice grab on the tom's lip


stink maybe: valve steam seals, PCV valve, piston rings??

[delusionz]

On idle it sometimes smokes white/grey and sometimes punching the throttle or resetting immobiliser fixes it, It happens most frequently when I haven't been filling up at the same station with the same gas. (Could be a co-incidence)

When I boost hard it dumps out big black clouds.

And a sniff of the idle exhaust has alot more of an oil scent than a petrol scent...



Suspension getting fixed today, New monroe monoflex inserts in the front and a superstrut ball joint repaired

[Random_Stranger]

On idle it sometimes smokes white/grey and sometimes punching the throttle or resetting immobiliser fixes it, It happens most frequently when I haven't been filling up at the same station with the same gas. (Could be a co-incidence)

When I boost hard it dumps out big black clouds.

And a sniff of the idle exhaust has alot more of an oil scent than a petrol scent...



Suspension getting fixed today, New monroe monoflex inserts in the front and a superstrut ball joint repaired

My MR2 Turbo does exactly what you just said, well about boosting hard. I think this is probably because I have an exhaust manifold leak, as I am missing a stud. Does it make like a chirpy sound at start up and some what continue until it either warms up or doesn't go away? I think it might be an exhaust leak, although I do not know much about boost, as I have just gotten this car as my first turbo car, I suppose any leak, whether intake or exhaust can possibly cause that and be addressed as a boost leak. Then again, I dunno. But listen for that chirpy sound in your bay when idle.

[delusionz]

I have a few sounds, the chirpy one u speak of may be the similar to a sound I would describe as a chugging sound on idle.

The chugging sound comes from the turbocharger area, not sure what it is, but I've checked for shaft play and have none.

Theres also a ringing noise on feather throttle or deceleration right on 3000 rpm, sometimes audible in 1st gear, it just happens on the 3k mark, nowhere else.

I do know from what I can see underneath the car that there is a nice dent in the exhaust shielding just after the downpipe and one of the clips that holds it in is loose. - Do you think this would be the main culprit?

[Random_Stranger]

I have a few sounds, the chirpy one u speak of may be the similar to a sound I would describe as a chugging sound on idle.

The chugging sound comes from the turbocharger area, not sure what it is, but I've checked for shaft play and have none.

Theres also a ringing noise on feather throttle or deceleration right on 3000 rpm, sometimes audible in 1st gear, it just happens on the 3k mark, nowhere else.

I do know from what I can see underneath the car that there is a nice dent in the exhaust shielding just after the downpipe and one of the clips that holds it in is loose. - Do you think this would be the main culprit?

That's a loose or missing exhaust stud my friend. I have that same problem not only in my MR2 Turbo, but in my Celica as well, as one of the exhaust studs is loose and for some reason I cannot tighten it back to sit for the life of me. Mine on the Celica happens in 4th gear, but it is more like the ringing noise and the stud is loose but still sits in it's position, just amazes me how it doesn't fall out, but I think the shield is keeping it in place. Even though it has that, it doesn't make the chirpy sound of an exhaust leak, but the stud is loose. So you might want to check that out. I am not sure what a chugging sound might indicate, but if you (probably sure you have already did this) can, locate where it is coming from. Maybe an intake leak through your intercooler piping? I dunno.

[delusionz]

Cool, thanks for that, I'll check it out.

So the exhaust smoke has nothing to do with the missing stud between the down pipe and the mid section, but is probably the cause of the ringing sound?

This may even be the reason why my turbo runs at 18psi on the stock wastegate??

My car doesn't sound like a chainsaw though...

[Random_Stranger]

Cool, thanks for that, I'll check it out.

So the exhaust smoke has nothing to do with the missing stud between the down pipe and the mid section, but is probably the cause of the ringing sound?

This may even be the reason why my turbo runs at 18psi on the stock wastegate??

My car doesn't sound like a chainsaw though...

Well let me see if we can nail this together. Does your car let out a lot or a cloud of smoke during start up until it warms up? I dunno what my MR2 Turbo has exactly, I just know it is on 15psi, it has a down pipe, only the primary cat, and an intercooler. But when I started to car today (and when I have before) it lets out a HUGE cloud of smoke and will continue to do so until it warms up completely and after I have rev'd it a bit. Then it is solid. Then again, it could probably use spark plugs, it has an exhaust leak, possible boost leak, and I dunno when last it had it's oil changed, but looks like it was sitting around for awhile, so I need to do that as well. But I can't really drive it around too much other than the neighborhood, since I still need to fully transfer it in my name and get insurance on it. So I have just started it up and drove it around here.

Anyways, all that is not relevant to this topic except the first few sentences. I just need to get some jack stands when I get some more money and a good jack and I can check it out.