808's car problem thread lolz, done goose hunting for solutions Options

[808celica]

update: 01/02/2010

Code 12

Distributor recently changed

Car died while coming to a spot at a friend's house. Took 3 cranks to get it running. Then died while coming to a stop sign 25ft from my friends house. Then in front of my house. This time tried cranking but no go. Got it kick started and let idle for 5mins. Then tried to rev the engine a bit in the engine bay, car didnt rev and died. Car was pushed into the garage and didnt start for 5mins. Tried 5 times cranking the ish and the 5th time it started with a low 400rpm idle for about 30secs and then went back to normal. I let the car run for about 3 mins while waiting for Herosblade to drive down and revved the car high, low, and medium rpm range. This time the car didnt shut off.

thoughts??

**problem came back, but i have new experiences

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 17, 2010 - 5:24 PM

[luka]

scanned code 21, 43

oil is watery

exhaust smells sweet.

looks like head gasket

[netrata]

Oh boy not good. Yeah Luka that sounds about right. Jon you need to replace that as soon as you can so you can get the car up and running again. Try saving up some cash though as you will be roughly spending anywhere from $100 to $300 depending on what you are going to do during the fix. My suggestion is to find a MLS headgasket for the 5SFE so that you will have the assurance of a better headgasket in the long run then the junk oem composite headgasket. Also, you will need to buy new headbolts since you can't re-use the old ones (torque-to-yield bolts). And send the head to a machine shop to get it rebuilt/cleaned up. Doing this will probably set you around $160 for the rebuilt head with new valve seals. Maybe even cheaper since it all depends on what the machine shop charges. And during the time that the head is gone, you can replace the old t-belt, waterpump, and any other seals that you may want to replace. Also, clean up the block deck surface of all the old head gasket material, but make sure to cover up any holes and water jackets around the cylinders as you don't want debris going into them. Let me know if you need help with the problem. Shoots.

[alltracman78]

As long as the head isn't warped you don't necessarily need to send it to a machine shop.
It all depends on the condition of the head.

You do want to replace the head bolts though.

My suggestion is to find a MLS headgasket for the 5SFE so that you will have the assurance of a better headgasket in the long run then the junk oem composite headgasket.

IIRC the 98 has a metal HG stock....

And composite HG work very well for the most part.
Metal HG are more prone to leakage [not blown, just not sealing correctly] if the surface isn't perfectly smooth.
Composite HG are more forgiving, and tend to seal better on uneven surfaces.
They last plenty long enough, as long as the engine is close to stock.

[808celica]

Sorry Nolan and Mike

The car went clank, boom!! on the way home.

3 cylinder celica FTL. Alas to Kahuku killed my car

[luka]

[netrata]

No way. Don't feel bad cause it also happened when I had the 7afe, only thing I wasn't home to witness what happened So, are you going to go through with the 3sgte swap then or going to find a low mileage 5sfe in the meantime? Just work with what can fit your budget IMO.

This post has been edited by netrata: May 4, 2009 - 9:25 PM

[Batman722]

oh noes ! :haironfire:

[808celica]

My moms co-worker's husband said he could save my engine.

Head gasket kit $160 his labor $600 Sending the Head to get redone between $500-$700 total = $1500

Dad said why not. I say NO! that's almost a 2nd gen 3s swap.

what you guys think.

yeah mike it got worse

No way. Don't feel bad cause it also happened when I had the 7afe, only thing I wasn't home to witness what happened So, are you going to go through with the 3sgte swap then or going to find a low mileage 5sfe in the meantime? Just work with what can fit your budget IMO.

yeah budget is everything. thank god for knowing the right people.

[808celica]

**edit** car runs...................Hawaiian style Nolan, Emarc, Mike, Luke, you will never believe how i did it


posted up an edit in the first post.

This post has been edited by 808celica: May 8, 2009 - 3:47 AM

[808celica]

didnt want to make a new thread. so i retitled mines ( still have same problem) and now with a new problem.

[presure2]

headgasket.
dont get a metal gasket, your block and head are not properly surfaced to accept the metal gasket.

does the rotor have 2 screws in it? or wait, does the federal have the clip on style? if so you can pry at it some with 2 flat head screwdrivers

[azian_advanced]

you just pull the rotor out. it's gonna be tight though if it's corroded.

new cap and rotor part numbers for ya

[808celica]

thanks guys. i just couldnt think straight yesterday

luckily my dad is the ish when it comes to macgyvering things

[luka]

I thought macgyvering things was my job lol...

but I was stuck at work.

tell me again how you fixed it? I was alittle distracted with work stuff...

Going from troubleshooting turbine engines to car engines and back and forth is not a good idea lol

[808celica]

fixed the smoke thing??? car doesnt run again ATM >:(

got shocked trying to figure out what was wrong at alas.
that's then i knew i had juice to spin the starter. you can smell gas. but i guess im not getting enough spark. so imma change the cap and rotor (they look kinda bad) today.

....................soo mike


when you buy your clip let me know i'll buy one too. i can take out a good amount from the bank

[808celica]

soo.........

new rotor and cap. still no go.

bridged the FP and B+ on the diagnosis box and i can hear my fuel pump. I can smell gas too



This post has been edited by 808celica: May 8, 2009 - 9:56 PM

[Bigblock]

Mr. Prez-- altho mine wasn't smoking, it was bucking like a wild horse when it did start.. A member suggested a tune-up-- cap,,wires,,rotor & plugs. No worries since.. Dumb of me to ask but how the plugs? IDK bro-- blown gasket won't be fixed with this.. TURBO??

This post has been edited by Bigblock: May 8, 2009 - 10:51 PM

[Tigawoods]

damn...i missed alot

[808celica]

plugs and wires are fine did rotor and cap the other day. cousin had some things to take care of so i didnt get the compression test done, which is cool, ummm trying to tell my dad that the engine isnt salvagable (right spelling?? im sick cant think) and finding another one will only be more than halfway to the 3s swap.

Match220 said he could swap it for free mad thanks to the guy. as payment he'll just take what he needs from the clip that i dont use.

[netrata]

nice. that's a good deal that match220 will hook u up. BTW, did he ever finish the 6 gen. vert he had?

[808celica]

i doubt it that thing has been waiting to go in for hmmmm 5 years now???

[808celica]

New problem. Posted in 1st post

[Euphoria]

should be able to get the plug from toyota, I got a sensor from toyota although it cost me $80 or so, just ring them.

[presure2]

New problem. Posted in 1st post

PM tweak, or hit a junkyard.
celicas, or camrys, or rav4's of the same vintage will have the same style plug, although you'll wanna look for one that isnt as dry and brittle as ours become over the years.

[808celica]

should be able to get the plug from toyota, I got a sensor from toyota although it cost me $80 or so, just ring them.

K. Toyota is gay here though couldnt find a part number or a reference online so i know they'll give me a hard time. Dont feel like spending 2hrs at Toyota again. I only do that when i wanna get a car

New problem. Posted in 1st post

PM tweak, or hit a junkyard.
celicas, or camrys, or rav4's of the same vintage will have the same style plug, although you'll wanna look for one that isnt as dry and brittle as ours become over the years.

Manny do you know if a 96 manual celica plug will work??

Are all the years GT manul have the same plug???

[808celica]

this is what's left of the connector, pretty sweet huh?? i didnt even have to fight with this to take it off. I just shook the wiring and *poop* it came out



Wiring and connectors seems to be good


Im guessing the rest of the connector is in there??


Just Curious is this important??? Didnt notice this until just right now




I guess this is one of the flaws living in Hawaii Corrosive environment

[trdproven]

Not sure I have to check but I know the one in the center controls the temp gauge in your cluster.

[808celica]

lolz the center one does?? hmm im wondering what that one does that's broken??

[samir0189]

broken blue thing is bimetal(lic) vacuum switching valve. Mine broke in the same way, iirc it was about $50 for the part.

I dunno what it does, something with temperature/vacuum etc. IDK.


Edit: i didnt really even notice any adverse effects from it being broken. Only time i noticed that it was broken was by seeing the hoses hanging while under the hood one day. I dunno what would happen if you capped it or joined it.

This post has been edited by samir0189: Jun 1, 2009 - 9:40 PM

[808celica]

hmmm car seems to be fine *scratch head* cool thanks man. i'll check BvSV at toyota

[terbear4god4life]

i just capped mine off its for emissions!

[808celica]

really?? hahah thank god hawaii doesnt have emission tests

[trdproven]

We have no restrictions for anything here....only hard thing to do is bring in JDM parts through customs like headlights and taillights.

[terbear4god4life]

lol i have mechanical gauges (don't ask) so i just took out the entire plug and replaced it with the mechanical water temp sensor.


no restrictions in Oregon either

This post has been edited by terbear4god4life: Jun 1, 2009 - 11:47 PM

[808celica]

seems like its something we can live without then??

[808celica]

K new problem again edited first post too.

can't get my car into any gear when the car is on, but when the car is off i can jam it into gear. if i do that there is NO clutch feel. not even lifting off 5mm the car starts to roll.
im thinking i shattered my clutch, but i still can shut off the car, put it in gear, turn on the car, and let off the clutch very little (im talking millimeters), but still cant change gears.
my knowledgable cousin Herosblade tells me im thinking too big and that it could be a pressure problem.

so where do i start???

thanks to my cousin Herosblade for towing my sorry ass home

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jun 21, 2009 - 6:22 AM

[presure2]

with the car off, push the clutch in, have someone verify that the slave cylinder is working, and holding pressure, by watching the pushrod extend when you push in the clutch, and hold it to the floor.
(the pushrod should extend, and stay out as long as you hold the pedal down)

if that checks out, the problem lies in the clutch itself.
is it an aftermarket, or stock clutch?

[808celica]

stock clutch. the pushrod moves in and out, but when i try to go bleed it the pedal sticks to the floor.

so now im most certain its the slave then?!?! or would it still be a guessing game between master and slave?

[808celica]

k bled the whole system. new fluid in. still no go

[luka]

all these problems that I never hear about lol...

i'm still waiting on a good clip to show up.

still troubleshooting my egr recirc...but been making progress.

[808celica]

all these problems that I never hear about lol...

i'm still waiting on a good clip to show up.

still troubleshooting my egr recirc...but been making progress.

homie

yeah all this stuff is fairly new to me. dont wanna prolong my axles too

well do drive out my house everyday knowing im beating my car so its expected

[808celica]

Slave and master changed! No go! input anyone?

[808celica]

new problem. i cant get into 2nd gear. when going from 1st to 2nd above 20mph or 4k rpms i cant get into 2nd. it doesnt grind, car doesnt jerk when i let go of the clutch. same as going from 3rd to 2nd when slowing down for a light.

tried rev matching, no go. how ever if i go under 15mph or under 3k rpms i can get into 2nd if im lucky. stick goes into 2nd gear position but doesnt lock in. i get the feeling like its not entering the gate.

new clutch, working reman master and slave, new flywheel,, and everything installed properly.

[808celica]

i heard too much fluid in trans can cause this, shifter cables broken/worn, shifter bushings gone, and driver error.

dunno about driver error cuz Herosblade test drove my car and it happened to him also.

when the car is at a complete stop like at a light i can play around and have the "enter the gate" feeling in 2nd and all gears.
just put in new fresh Royal Purple Synchromesh equivalent to the Pennzoil oil. it only happens in 2nd and sometimes 4th but rarely.

could it be that the bushings on the quick shift be gone??

[samir0189]

My dad put RP in his gearbox of his old truck, and after that he was unable to get 2nd geAr too. I also recently read in a 4x4 magazine that some guy put RP in his Tacoma tranny and couldn't get 2nd or 3rd.

[presure2]

how much fluid are you putting in?
it takes ~2.7qts.

doubt its the quickshifter, ive had mine since 03 without issue.

[GriffGirl]

This honestly sounds very much like what happened with my car when my clutch went out last year. I started w/the slave, then master, bled the hell out of it... no go. Did just fine going through the gears w/the car off, but once the car was running I couldn't get it into second either.

Over 2 or 3 days it got progressively worse to the point where I couldn't even start the car. Then I heard a big chunky metal sound and decided it was time to tow it out to the shop— after dropping the tranny I discovered a big chunk of one of the springs was jammed into some other random part of the clutch plate. Cheap ass POS Chinese junk! Replaced it w/Exedy OEM kit and some Penzoil Syncromesh and it's felt like a new car ever since.

Not that I've ever owned a new car. But you get the point.

[808celica]

how much fluid are you putting in?
it takes ~2.7qts.

doubt its the quickshifter, ive had mine since 03 without issue.

kk i'll just let the trans drain out of the fill hole until it doesnt

This honestly sounds very much like what happened with my car when my clutch went out last year. I started w/the slave, then master, bled the hell out of it... no go. Did just fine going through the gears w/the car off, but once the car was running I couldn't get it into second either.

Over 2 or 3 days it got progressively worse to the point where I couldn't even start the car. Then I heard a big chunky metal sound and decided it was time to tow it out to the shop— after dropping the tranny I discovered a big chunk of one of the springs was jammed into some other random part of the clutch plate. Cheap ass POS Chinese junk! Replaced it w/Exedy OEM kit and some Penzoil Syncromesh and it's felt like a new car ever since.

Not that I've ever owned a new car. But you get the point.

right right. well new everything but the trans. i do what you guys said in chat when i get enough $$

[darthvieder]

interesting.. im going to check this one out.. thanks a lot

commission de surendettement
- commission de surendettement, vous pouvez demander un dossier de surendettement.

[808celica]

yeah sure. played with a couple things and im most certain that my shifter cable is just plain old and wait on its way going out. I now have no bottom gears, however when having someone hold the stick in any of the bottom gears and simply touching the gear selector the stick gives that feeling of it actually entering the "shift gate" once i get my cables and install i will come back here and post teh results.

wish me luck

[808celica]

Yay!! First problem for the damn New Year............ not liking it too
updated the first post with the best description i could.

Used the E1 and TE1 paper clip trick and got 1 flash, pause, then 2 flashes.

Celica_STCali responsed to my text (thanks man ) and replied Code 12.

[Bitter]

double check the connections at the dist, could be a loose wire.

[CelicaST_CALI]

*ahem* its CelicaST_cali...haha glad i could help

[808celica]

double check the connections at the dist, could be a loose wire.

everything seems good except that the connections dont snap in and lock!?!?!
using the CEL sticky link imma check the resistance between each terminal, mainly G and NE.

I really dont wanna buy another distrib cuz this one is pretty damn new, but if it is the problem then i guess im getting the $450 distrib directly from Toyota and i hope i dont have to replace my ecm.

**donkey balls!!!! i guess im heading to the junkyard. hope there's another celica i can rape parts from. there goes my $$ for jdm tails once again

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 3, 2010 - 5:58 PM

[Bitter]

well they should click into place and hold from being pulled out. i would verify that the pins in the terminal are not spread and not making contact with the pins on the dist.

[808celica]

well they should click into place and hold from being pulled out. i would verify that the pins in the terminal are not spread and not making contact with the pins on the dist.

i'll go check that thanks. wells im off to go visit Herosblade at Checker's

[Remy]

Read this thread your having the same problem I was having awhile back, it was my new distributer that was faulty not sending signal to the ecu causing my car to stall and not start. You have the same cel codes I had too. The top connector on the distributor is the culprit for the 1-2 code test that first.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...330&hl=remy

[808celica]

Read this thread your having the same problem I was having awhile back, it was my new distributer that was faulty not sending signal to the ecu causing my car to stall and not start. You have the same cel codes I had too. The top connector on the distributor is the culprit for the 1-2 code test that first.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...330&hl=remy

funny thing is too i posted in there. my problem was the distrib, the coil imploded. so that was replaced with a Napa brand (sadly yes cuz Toy is just too damn expensive). I used a multimeter to check the ohms, the distrib prongs checked out fine according to the multimeter. The old distrib is gone because of the core exchange with Napa.

I did find that the connector is missing the damn locking clip, so the connector just snugs in. only thing with that is i tried moving the connector with the car on and running. I bounced the car and what not trying to see if the connector comes loose. Connector doesnt move but thats only 5mins of moving, not the continuous movement of actually driving the car. I will source out a new distrib connector, if i cant find one im buying from the Doc's site. I really hope my ecu isnt shorting.

Car starts and runs idle fine now, I guess im using it to work for the rest of the month and see if it happens again. So as the car stands the problem isnt solved fully.

[Bitter]

use a ziptie to hold it into place, see if the problem still exists.

[808celica]

use a ziptie to hold it into place, see if the problem still exists.

one step ahead of you. Now I can truely say this car is completely ghetto rigged

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 3, 2010 - 11:18 PM

[Ted95]

this **** is happening to my car now at the moment.. it **** the bed and took soooo many cranks to get it runnin and when i got it running, it ideled lowww and when it was back to normal and gave it gas it gagged... we thinkk its the map sensor but we aint positive.. my codes came up as 24 and 31, one being a temp sensor and the other the map senor... cars in the shop now being looked at

[808celica]

wow that sucks man. Im not getting those codes (knock on wood) everything seems alright ATM, so i'll go drive out for gas.

***01/03/2010 10:12pm I think i found the problem. Fool around with every wire and part associated with the trouble code. Use a zip tie and a rubberband. Test drive, bridge TE1 and E1 terminals in diagnosis box and you get a continuous flashing CEL with key turned to ON. Continuous flashes means trouble gone!!! WTF!!!!!!

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 4, 2010 - 3:14 AM

[Bitter]

then it may have just been a bad connection.

[808celica]

K that didnt solve the problem i just got lucky. with my new experiences now i have a better idea when the problem comes about.

Engine starts no problem when cold, but once the engine is warmed up that's when the idle drops and the car dies. After this I wasnt able to start the car again even with me fooling around with connections.

Now in my garage i warmed the car up then came back and gave the engine gas-------car doesnt stall
Gave it more revs are diff rpms to make sure that wasnt a fluke. This seems good.
Now coincidentally my dad touchs the oil pressure sensor and the car dies (no throttle given)
So i take out the sensor connector and shoot electronic cleaner (like brake cleaner but wont harm plastic)----Car starts (problem solved or a fluke?)
Well.......that was a fluke, car is running regular idle then a little gas was given and car dies. wtf?!?!?!
Car started right away again. My dad and I kept re-creating what we did to make the car die. No go car runs and didnt die out. So i turn off the car and call it a night.

Thoughts??? Next thing I should check is the igniter near the brake master cylinder on the firewall. Might have to drive out with Herosblade's igniter and drive in circles around the neighborhood until the car dies. Then carefully remove my igniter and install his. If the car starts and dont die Igniter is my problem (wont know till i try) If I still stall and die I'm lost

So would a faulty oil pressure sensor cause the car to shut off?? Also those 3 sensors at the end of the radiator hose, would they cause the car to shut off?? Other than that those were the only things my dad and I touched that caused the car to shut off at warmed temp.

[808celica]

k this morning the started the car and took a shower. came back down and the car was still running by itself at warm temp. i gave aboout 10-15 short 2500 revs and the last rev it died. i tried to start it back up but it wouldnt. so i waited 5 mins and tried again, 4th try it kinda started but i had to give gas (1500rpm worth) for the engine to stay alive for 5 secs. after that it wouldnt start.

[808celica]

changed igniter module, problem still exists its not throttle position sensor, idle air valve thing, or vac hoses. Its something electrical but i can find it. Still gettin hte code 12 checked distrib and connection, igniter and connection. what's left to check?? Last thing i know is ECU. help much??

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 1:42 AM

[Bitter]

ya'll got mice and rats on them islands, check all the wiring.

[808celica]

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 4:24 PM

[benzo]

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

i want your clear door lights!!

[OOBE]

I got dibs on the sides.

[808celica]

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

i want your clear door lights!!

just use a tundra clear lens. search for my interior thread or search clear door lens and grab the p/n its way faster for oyu that way

I got dibs on the sides.

sides were ghetto rigged and really damaged

anywho pin 20 and 3 on E5 connector was tested for ignition signal to the ecu. the IGT terminal isnt givng me 0.5-1v when igniter connector is removed and you "crank" the engine for no more than 2secs a time. also it must not read 0 or 5v on the IGT terminal. Problem isnt solved but I think I found my problem, the last option, ECU.

[OOBE]

You getting an IS350? I hate those cars. They're quick, but too uncomfortable inside for a sporty luxury car. The back has no room. Might as well be a Celica, lol.

[DRAGN808]

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

How much you want for the intake?

[mak5603]

how much for the gt4 strut bar?

[richee3]

You're seriously going to part it out?

[808celica]

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

how much for the gt4 strut bar?

^^

You're seriously going to part it out?

Yes, I've bought a new ecu and still the problem exists.

[MaskedMan]

Nooo don't part out and leave us!!! I will come down there and help you figure it all out .

[808celica]

did everything by the book. if it comes down to me pulling the motor just to get to something small im not game.

[Bitter]

i'm telling you, its in the wiring. de pin the wires associated with the code from the ecu harness, pin in new wires (dealer sells pre-pinned leads i think) and run new wires all the way to the offending sensor/part.

[MaskedMan]

did everything by the book. if it comes down to me pulling the motor just to get to something small im not game.

So does that mean if it's something big, you would feel justified to pull the motor and fix it...? hehehe... ::gets wire cutters and plane ticket ready:: I'll be right there to help you!

[richee3]

How about a motor swap? Cheaper than an IS350

Seriously though, it's a shame to hear that you are going to part the car out. This has been one of my favorite cars on 6gc for a while.

If you do part, I might be up for a quote on your TRD quickshifter.

[808celica]

time to bring out the stock springs from the shed and all my stock black interior trims. license plates going into storage too

codes are all gone, like i said car runs normal at cold start and gently shuts off when warmed.

you guys are the best

[808celica]

here is what i might be aiming towards instead of the IS


but like Spolski said, "You'll miss the celica I garauntee it!!" Everyone will need an update sooner or later

[richee3]

Yaris! Oh noes!!! Get the IS!!! Please, get the IS!!!!

I am having a really hard time imagining a Yaris slammed as low as it will go.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jan 16, 2010 - 11:24 PM

[OOBE]

Those freakin' Yaris are EVERYWHERE in this island, lol.

[96stgreendemon]

i swear if you buy a yaris i will personally fly to hawaii and smack the **** out of you lol, what are you thinking? a yaris? why just why they is slow and there is nnoooooo go

[BonzaiCelica]

get the two door yaris instead. It looks way better

[windowlicker]

i swear if you buy a yaris i will personally fly to hawaii and smack the **** out of you lol, what are you thinking? a yaris? why just why they is slow and there is nnoooooo go

and the celica is sooooooo much faster????

[windowlicker]

does your car have a crank position sensor? i see this on the cars i work on a lot. when the sensor is cold, it works fine, but when it warms up the internal wiring starts to expand, then causes the ecu to think there is too much resistance in the sensor which makes it think that there is an open in the circuit. since the ecu needs the input signal from the crank position sensor to run, when it thinks there is no signal, then it will shut off. i'd look into that before selling your car.

[808celica]

yeah my mech friends are looking into that. presure2 told me its near the oil pump area, which means getting near the timing belt. then i'd have to get a new water pump, timing belt, oil pump or seal (maybe), the crank sensor, and all other crap while im there. plus friends time away from more important things. im just not willing to replace things anymore, kinda out of that phase (wanting a new updated car). Thanks for your input

get the two door yaris instead. It looks way better

too small. how does that saying go....

"Four doors for more hoes"

i swear if you buy a yaris i will personally fly to hawaii and smack the **** out of you lol, what are you thinking? a yaris? why just why they is slow and there is nnoooooo go

and the celica is sooooooo much faster????

going fast in Hawaii is old skool. I'd just be going is circlea = No fun

[mak5603]

i swear if you buy a yaris i will personally fly to hawaii and smack the **** out of you lol, what are you thinking? a yaris? why just why they is slow and there is nnoooooo go

and the celica is sooooooo much faster????

all day. every day.

[808celica]

4drs for more hoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its all up to my friends when they have time they can just open my garage door and do whatevers to the car

[CelicaST_CALI]

i swear if you buy a yaris i will personally fly to hawaii and smack the **** out of you lol, what are you thinking? a yaris? why just why they is slow and there is nnoooooo go

x999999

i swear to god jon,if u are actually gonna leave us it better not be for a god dam yaris...

This post has been edited by CelicaST_CALI: Jan 18, 2010 - 12:35 AM

[captb]

just saw this thread and cant believe it.

[EKAn]

Nooooo!

Dibs on the Euro splitter

[Bigblock]

Use your Presidential Power, man!! DEMAND they pay you taxes!!

IF you go to another make, are you still going to stay with 6gc???
You CAN'T just LEAVE US... ... the void could NOT be filled!!!