Advice/Progress Thread, update on pg4, 5/26/10 Options

[captb]

Hey guys, if you have restoration experience i could really use your help.

The paint job and all the dents finally put me in the position to sell the 6g. problem was i couldnt find a car that can match the 6g's "feel" if you know what i mean. Since having a shop repair her is so expensive, i figured ill tackle restoring her on my own. After watching alot of youtube videos and reading how-to's on restoration, im confident enough to try it, but still have a few questions and would appreciate your opinions.

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?

(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?

(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?

(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.

This is alot of info and questions but i would appreciate any input on 1, 2, or all of my questions.

Thanks,
-Joel

This post has been edited by captb: May 28, 2010 - 10:13 PM

[NewOrleans]

Hey guys, if you have restoration experience i could really use your help.

The paint job and all the dents finally put me in the position to sell the 6g. problem was i couldnt find a car that can match the 6g's "feel" if you know what i mean. Since having a shop repair her is so expensive, i figured ill tackle restoring her on my own. After watching alot of youtube videos and reading how-to's on restoration, im confident enough to try it, but still have a few questions and would appreciate your opinions.

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?

(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?

(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?

(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.

This is alot of info and questions but i would appreciate any input on 1, 2, or all of my questions.

Thanks,
-Joel

cant help ya with 1
but for bondo you should use a brand named "Rage" and any kind of hardener would work. but for every golfball size of bondo use about an inch of hardener. When you do this you need to mix the bondo with the hardener until it is all one color. then you only have a few minutes to put it on the car and smooth it out.
Um your gonna need low grit sand paper to get the first layers of paint n stuff off the car. another thing is that when your sanding where the dent is, the actual dent is larger than you can see. And you do NOT need to sand the car to bare metal! after the bondo has fully dried use a little higher grit sand paper to smooth out the edges between where the bondo starts and stops.

3. if you get a body kit you will need to do fiberglass work which i know nothing about lol
4.idk
5

[captb]

Thanks NewOrleans, ill be sure to check out "rage".

anyone else got advice on my other questions?

[808celica]

Hey guys, if you have restoration experience i could really use your help.

The paint job and all the dents finally put me in the position to sell the 6g. problem was i couldnt find a car that can match the 6g's "feel" if you know what i mean. Since having a shop repair her is so expensive, i figured ill tackle restoring her on my own. After watching alot of youtube videos and reading how-to's on restoration, im confident enough to try it, but still have a few questions and would appreciate your opinions.

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?
Maaco is good if you do your own body work, if you have time and money do a DIY

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?
If the dent isnt too deep/big I would prefer Glazing Putty. How ever its softer than body filler (bondo is a type of brand body filler) It all depends on the bumper problem

(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?
IMO just body work what's needed. then make it as flush as you can with the rest of the body. cheap kits will fit like crap. C-One copy kits are your best bet for a gt4 look. Cheap bumpers might need to be cut and reglassed.

(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?
Hmm i would suggest taking off the door panels and seeing where the area is affected. Sadly i dont have a problem (knock on wood) so i cant tell you how to handle it.

(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.
Paint on a warm weekend in your garage, covered, dust free, debris free, and dry. Check the stickies for Coomer's paint booth thread. I used that thread to make my own paint booth. Also and input from my dad.

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.
Have a good spray gun, have 1 primary water catch for the compressor line and 1 before the gun. Get the paint mixing technique right. Paint, Hardener, and Reducer. Primer before paint. Wet sand the whole car and use Joy soap as a degreaser before you paint. Coomer's Paint thread in the Stickies/How to section has plenty of info to get you started.
This is alot of info and questions but i would appreciate any input on 1, 2, or all of my questions.

Thanks,
-Joel



Any other Q's just ask.


Have fun,
Jon

[CastrolCelica]

1. Do you like my car? If so, you'll like Maaco's work IF, and I'm really making sure you hear that... IF it's a good shop. There are 3 Maaco's in the Columbus area and I'd only send you to one if you lived here. Visit them, and feel them out. If they take you in the back to show you their work, that's a good sign. If the guys who work there get their cars done there, like mine did, that's a VERY good sign.

However, like they say, "we can do just as good of a paint job as anyone else, but we also do $200 jobs". IE: The $200 job with no primer or body work will look like crud and last for about as long as $200 should last. My job included the best prep package they had and the best single stage enamel paint (what the car had on from factory) along with an integrated clear coat, and that's why my car looks so good. It also cost over $750, but it's still cheap for the quality.

I know a lot of people say "oh no, Maaco!" and insist on going to a "real" shop. But these guys can do just as good of a job if you pay them enough money to. Also, I did all my own body work (door ding fillings and surface rust repair) which saved me a lot of money. The only body work they did was to repair my nearly fully cracked in half spoiler and it looks brand spankin' new without a crease to show.



PS: By "I did my own prep work" I don't just mean door dings. Taking off the trim, spoiler, rubber, mirrors, ect is VITAL to getting a good job. I didn't take off my door handles or back and front windshield trim because it was hard as plastic and wasn't going to flex, but everything else that flexed was removed. It's a pain in the ass but it saved me their fee of $500 to do this and I have a paint job that lasts now. Basically, anything that can flex and make paint to crack, REMOVE.

[presure2]

these guys, especially 808 and castrol have the right idea.
castrol hit the nail on the head as far as maaco. if they are willing to show you theyre finished work, right out of the paint booth, and it looks good, that helps.
look for paint on any trim, orange peel (the amount of orange peel will depend on if its single stage paint. single stage especially light metallics, tend to have alot more peel than a basecoat/ clearcoat paint job, but cost about 1/2 the price.)
for the doors, if the lower section is rusting on the inside, thats a sign of things to come on the outside.
depending on how bad it is, you can sometimes get away with useing a "cookie wheel" on a die grinder and grinding out all the rust and using somthing like POR15 to stop it from rusting again.
if its rotted, your best bet will be to look for a set of used replacement doors that are in better condition. once the cancer stops, its almost impossible to stop, without replacing the whole thing.

[Bigblock]

Agreed--what ever you can take off prior to sanding will prevent particles of all sizes/shapes from "mystreriously" coming out of all the crevaces during priming & painting.

You may want to consider some type of fresh-air intake/exaust system(fresh in bad out).

Wash/spray the area w/water.Sweep the floor to remove dirt/dust.Rinse.
I'm sure you already know--tape/mask what doesn't get primed/painted.
Your supplier should be able to tell you what you need to use/do for the flexable pieces::fbrglss,plastic,etc...

MOST IMPORTANT--you will need some type of breathing mask that is rated for the primer/paint you use.
Stay legal........
Go at it...When you're done,post-up,have a beer,be proud!

{edit}Maaco does have__ some__ places where the ppl care!!!

This post has been edited by Bigblock: Oct 22, 2009 - 8:48 PM

[CastrolCelica]

{edit}Maaco does have__ some__ places where the ppl care!!!

Yep, exactly. SOME . CaptB, please read our comments well and realize it's really a crap-shoot. If you call a place and you tell them the make and model of the car, and without seeing it... knowing what paint you want... knowing what prep to do, BLUNTLY say a quote over the phone, that's BAD NEWS. Two of the three Maacos did this for me. I have no idea what the quote was for exactly to this day, and the even numbers they named are impossible to obtain by any combination of paints and preps. Lastly, I called both of these cruddy Maacos on the next day, named the same make and model as I did before and they gave me totally different numbers than they quoted me the day before. That's a bad, bad sign.

On the other hand, the third place in Columbus I called, the guy asked me what I wanted, told me what they offered, and gave me an IDEA (not an estimate) of what it might cost. He then, instead of booking me, asked me to come in and see the shop and bring in the car for inspection so they would know what I wanted done to it so they didn't mess up anything.

3 of the painters there had cars painted there of their own.. some of them multiple cars. The one guy who was there that day had his Camaro there coming out of the booth and it was nothing short of gorgeous. I saw some of their $200 paint jobs, and they looked halfway decent I suppose. Most of the bad paint jobs were the fault of the car owners though. There was an 80's Civic there that had rust everywhere (and Walmart plastic rims! Woot ), and ... literally... asked them for a $200 paint job, single stage, in metallic (which looks bad.. metallic is always best in base and clear) and didn't want to pay for any repair. YES, THAT MEANS THEY PAINTED OVER ALL HIS RUST ON HIS QUARTER PANELS!!!! He didn't take off ANY trim or parts like mirrors or windshield wiper fluid nozzles, and it wasn't pretty. To be fair though, the paint wasn't all that bad and they did a phenomenal job taping the car with the challenges brought to them. But again, it was the car owner's laziness and cheap wallet that contributed to the poor job. They were actually embarrassed about it and assured me that what I was doing would make my car look 10 times better.. and it did.



You see, once again. $200 with no prep will give you a minimally sanded (hardly ideal), non primed car over door dings, rust, and unfortunately some trim that can't really be avoided. Am I saying mine is perfect? Hell no. I can name MANY spots were my paint has flaws. But this is also normal to single stage jobs, of any quality. Did I get orange peel though? Nope.. and that's a sign of a good shop. The most I got were little bumps in a couple places from a dirt particle or what not. If I had spent over $1200 and gotten base and clear, which happens with that too, those bumps would have been buffed out easily.

So yes, it's all about how much you want to spend. If you want show room quality, don't even bother with the first two grades.. seriously. They call them "work horse" quality for a reason. If you want good quality, the highest single stage or a base/clear will suit your bill. It's not perfect, but the way I see it, the car looked like the back side of Pumba when I got it, so it's a lot better than it was.

All in all, remember to do your prep. It's a bitch, I won't lie. It took me 2-4 weekends of hard work to get it ready. But it was worth it and saved me about $1000 in the end. It was also a great learning experience and got me acquainted with the car. I retained my knowledge so well that I was able to put the car back together after the paint job in only one single weekend. This is actually quite important as you have an old car. The best thing you can do is educate yourself about how to get to all sorts of places to repair parts in the future that will fail, and prepping your car will help you do just that. I've saved probably an estimated $3000 in service fees because I did the repairs myself. Parts are cheap, labor is not.

Best of luck. If you have ANY questions, let me know.

[CastrolCelica]

PS: If you do decide to paint it yourself, please don't be an irresponsible twat and do what youtubers do and paint the car outside.. with the bugs.. IN GRASS.. and letting all the fumes escape into the atmosphere. There's a guy specifically who painted his car orange on youtube this way, and it ticked me off to no end. I hope the guy had bugs stuck under his clear lol. What sickened me was that he wore a mask to protect himself, but let the fumes drift off across the street to poison the lungs of people having nothing to do with this.

As said before, make sure your ground is wet to prevent paint particles from floating in the air for what seems like ever. I personally wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. I CERTAINLY wouldn't recommend looking at youtube for "lessons" as most people don't even start in the correct first spot, have the spray gun the right distance from the car, or paint in the correct non-stop motion that they're supposed to.

Besides, after paying for the paint, the equipment, the tent..ect.. you're looking at about what it would be to just have Maaco do it for you. Do the prep, take off your trim and learn to use bondo and you'll save money, have a great paint job, and won't ever have to lift your finger on the paint itself and worry that you do a cruddy job.

This post has been edited by CastrolCelica: Oct 23, 2009 - 12:36 AM

[captb]

Thanks for all the advice guys. and i definitely will be weary of any maaco and any body shop for that matter. But right now im on the edge of painting myself. im out to get some supplies to start with the prep work. if i were to paint myself, what would be the cheapest for primer, paint, clear? and assuming i rent out a booth how long would it take after each coat, given that i sand between coats? just wondering if it would be a multiple day kinda thing.

808celica, you're from hawaii too. you know of any places/junk yards/websites where i can get a decent replacement door at a decent price. shipping kinda sucks for us.

[CastrolCelica]

Thanks for all the advice guys. and i definitely will be weary of any maaco and any body shop for that matter. But right now im on the edge of painting myself. im out to get some supplies to start with the prep work. if i were to paint myself, what would be the cheapest for primer, paint, clear? and assuming i rent out a booth how long would it take after each coat, given that i sand between coats? just wondering if it would be a multiple day kinda thing.

808celica, you're from hawaii too. you know of any places/junk yards/websites where i can get a decent replacement door at a decent price. shipping kinda sucks for us.

Cheapest, uh oh.. you're going down the wrong path already! Good paint, clear and primer will run you about what my paint job cost... plus you have to do it yourself. But I congratulate you on trying this though. I hope it turns out well.

To answer what questions I can, you *should* be able to paint your car in one day. Now, being that you're not a professional, I can't guarantee that you can. But yes, it's more than possible to do this in a relatively quick amount of time.

If you want tutorials per say on how to paint the car and what exactly you need to do and what exactly you need to buy, it may be beneficial to find a car painting forum and ask some questions. Trust me there's forums for everything. Hell I even found a bustling forum that deals only with buffing and detailing cars when I had questions about that. Nuts huh?

EDIT: I'm sure you already know this, but if you're doing a base/clear or a single stage enamel, you'll need curing time. So just because it's sprayed in one day, doesn't mean you should go waxing it the next. I'm not 100% sure on base/clear (especially since all brands are different), but my enamel takes about 4 weeks to fully cure. That means no decals or wax in that time.

This post has been edited by CastrolCelica: Oct 23, 2009 - 6:18 PM

[Nartanian]

and suscribed lol

[captb]

Thanks for the advice guys. Honestly, all this input has brought much more confidence that i can actually do this. and I'll definitely subscribe to a forum.

[captb]

Can anyone tell me how to take the window trims off. i saw the sticky on painting them in place but a few people mentioned removing them. any input before i start prying?

[808celica]

Personally i wouldn't. It will be more of a hassle to replace them. I just did a good tape job If you're doing a DIY spray then the less things you take off (unnecessary things) the better.

[captb]

Hey 808, Id prefer leaving the trim on but there is a small rust patch right above the trim that i need to get too. you think i can just treat it like a normal repair? im assuming that with the trims intact i wont be able to remove all the rust though.

oh, and any input on getting replacement doors to hawaii?

[808celica]

getting anything big and heavy shipped to hawaii IS GAY!!!!!! Aww man that sucks wanna take a pic and post up? I really should go get a 6gc shell to cut and fool around with.

[captb]

heres some pictures i have now. ill get pictures of the rust area tomorrow.


BEFORE




I love how my car is so photogenic. Its much uglier in person.

[808celica]

why didnt you say you're from Hi. Is this Waikele/Mililani area?? Got your pm from forumshawaii.net wanna have a 6gc meet at your house?? can drag out the other 3 guys and we'll see what we can do with your car.

[captb]

haha. funny. but ya im the same guy. im pretty sure i told you long time ago when i first joined the site. And as long as i can fit into my schedule, id be down for a 6gc meet.

[808celica]

lolz must've been a long time then. next one is toys 4 tots nov. 28. CCO is coming out (who ever isnt deployed) and everyone in the toy family would be G to have another 6 there.

I wanna say the trims just pops off, but then i dont know if they'll reusable after than. when ever you have free time lmk and i'll call up the guys and we'll do up your car. we had a paint correction day on herosblade(my cousin's car) now its whiter and out shines my car i'm prolly the closest help too HAhahaha since all theses guys aren't in paradise

[captb]

shoots. ill help rep the 6g's.

thanks for the help i know im gonna need it. ill let you know when i got some free time and we can work something out. are the other guys active on this site too?

Dont remember if i complimented your car but its pretty sexy.. and im fricken in love with ur rims.

[CastrolCelica]

I took off the driver and passenger weather stripping. It's on a track that you just pull off. Leave it hanging on there by the corner (don't rip it off from the corner!) and just unscrew the track from the frame of the car, with the weather stripping attached by the corner that it's fastened to.


As far as the back passenger and driver's trim, I didn't take mine off. All I did was tape around it. There's a HUGE gap there, and it was easy for my paint shop to get in there with the spray gun. In fact, there's a lot of "hard plasticy" trim that you really don't need to take off. It all depends on how good of a taper you are really.

[808celica]

I took off the driver and passenger weather stripping. It's on a track that you just pull off. Leave it hanging on there by the corner (don't rip it off from the corner!) and just unscrew the track from the frame of the car, with the weather stripping attached by the corner that it's fastened to.


As far as the back passenger and driver's trim, I didn't take mine off. All I did was tape around it. There's a HUGE gap there, and it was easy for my paint shop to get in there with the spray gun. In fact, there's a lot of "hard plasticy" trim that you really don't need to take off. It all depends on how good of a taper you are really.

He needs to take them off cuz of rust

shoots. ill help rep the 6g's.

thanks for the help i know im gonna need it. ill let you know when i got some free time and we can work something out. are the other guys active on this site too?

Dont remember if i complimented your car but its pretty sexy.. and im fricken in love with ur rims.

Herosblade, 808celica2damaxx, and Luka are the current active ones. Japanboi is MIA. the rest is i dunno How ever i did see that vert that's registered under hawaii, Alas side.

[trdproven]

getting anything big and heavy shipped to hawaii IS GAY!!!!!! Aww man that sucks wanna take a pic and post up? I really should go get a 6gc shell to cut and fool around with.

Imagine all the parts I bought in my profile, and Guam is farther away from the mainland than hawaii is. I hate being on an island sometimes.

[captb]

I've been pretty smomped lately so all the repair material is just sitting in my room. But i did have time to take a few pictures of the heavily damaged area.

Above Window Trim:


Should i remove the trim for repair?

Left Door:





Right Door:






As you can see the damage is pretty bad on the inside but is not visible from the outside. So, Are these doors beyond repair?

[808celica]

Hoooooooooo!!! seriously?!?!?!?! im like right next to the water and my car is fine X___X Now we HAVE to have a 6gc meet at your place. Bubble rust SUCKS!!!!! I got 1 bottle if Rust Treatment from Napa ($18) I'll bring over, was gonna use it for the ol' gen1 but i decided i'm going have to cut, shape, and weld in some places. Lmk man I'll call everyone out

[captb]

Dont want to start a knew thread for this but can anyone confirm that the doors on a coupe are the same as a convertible. more specifically, a 94 gt coupe vs a 96 convertible?

[808celica]

coupe and vert is the same just one has no roof at a point Hahah

[captb]

coupe and vert is the same just one has no roof at a point Hahah

nice. just saved myself $130.

oh, question bout the meet on nov 28. is it cool if i meet up with you guys after 12. i got military sticker so getting in shouldnt be a problem. i got stuff to take care of before that.

[808celica]

its cool we'll be a Kbay base

[captb]

Bump... Please read edited first post.

[freddy121389]

i recently just got a toms lip, repaired it and painted it, it ran me around 350$. I bought it for 160$, bought some urethane bumper repair for about 30$. Then took it to a local auto body shop and had it painted for 180$.

End Result Tom's Lip

Personally I wouldn't buy a toms lip in 2 pieces, the work that you would have to put in to make that look like 1 piece again is just too much work. Just wait that's what I did. Just post WTB's on the buying forum on here and im sure soon someone will jump on it.

This post has been edited by freddy121389: Nov 26, 2009 - 1:26 PM

[808celica]

200 shipped for a cut toms?? hmm where you gonna bring it, to get re-fiberglassed??

[captb]

200 shipped for a cut toms?? hmm where you gonna bring it, to get re-fiberglassed??

Yup. $200 shipped to hawaii. You think i can handle it on my own?

And freddy, im more worried about cost rather than time. How long did it take you to repair yours? i mean, were you able to repair it in one day and prep it on the second day? And how did it turn out in the end, before you took it to the shop for paint? was it decent looking?

Pls let me know guys. i have to say yes or no in 24hrs. Thanks again.

[freddy121389]

i posted a pic, you do not want to use bondo or fiberglass fixer, considering its urethane. Bondo won't last and isn't very flexible. I went to a local paint store here called redshaw and i told them what i needed and they sold me a caulking like tube filled with urethane bumper fixer but that was only because of cracks. With it split in half you will have to plastic weld it and it won't look the same or hold that well considering plastic welding isn't good either but it's the only way to fix it. Nothing else would hold it. IMHO I wouldn't buy it in two pieces way to much work and you'll find that nothing will hold it together considering its directly in the middle and having the most stress it could have on either side. It'll slowly crack and wear over time. You need it to be flexible.

[captb]

i posted a pic, you do not want to use bondo or fiberglass fixer, considering its urethane. Bondo won't last and isn't very flexible. I went to a local paint store here called redshaw and i told them what i needed and they sold me a caulking like tube filled with urethane bumper fixer but that was only because of cracks. With it split in half you will have to plastic weld it and it won't look the same or hold that well considering plastic welding isn't good either but it's the only way to fix it. Nothing else would hold it. IMHO I wouldn't buy it in two pieces way to much work and you'll find that nothing will hold it together considering its directly in the middle and having the most stress it could have on either side. It'll slowly crack and wear over time. You need it to be flexible.

wouldnt the middle receive the least deflection and stress as it is sitting on the bumper?

I really appreciate the advice. im just a little concerned because im almost certain i cant get the lip as one piece because of shipping to hawaii. and i really want a tom's lip.

[azian_advanced]

if you buy from jdm-pro-tokyo on ebay, he will ship it in one piece and through normal postal services.. not sure how he does it but that's how i got mine. he had a couple a little while ago but he doesn't seem to have any at the moment.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Nov 27, 2009 - 1:36 AM

[captb]

if you buy from jdm-pro-tokyo on ebay, he will ship it in one piece and through normal postal services.. not sure how he does it but that's how i got mine. he had a couple a little while ago but he doesn't seem to have any at the moment.

Thanks for the heads up. he actually has one on sale but its a bit on the pricey side. how much did you pay for yours or how much do you think its worth? and i guess i will have to wait a little longer and keep an eye out for an uncut one. let me know if you see anything.

[captb]

k, i've been really busy with school so havent gotten much done. i got replacement doors in my garage and will have alot more time to dedicate on the car during winter break. anyways, i wanted to get comments and suggestions on my plans. so with the extra door i will be cutting out small pieces to weld to cover the spoiler holes and antenna i will be deleting but was wondering if the same process will work for the rust bubble.

i am planning to cut around the rust bubble and use a portion of the door to weld on. so my question is how practical will this be? im not sure what it will look like with the trim removed and was questioning if i would have access to reaching under the metal. meaning, if i couldnt reach under the newly welded piece then it would be just the plain metal, and again more suseptable to rust. am i correct?

also, does anyone know how to remove the side rear window trim. i think its glued on but if i pry, i might destroy it and if i heat it then id most likely warp it. any suggestions on removing it?

[captb]

edit

This post has been edited by captb: Jan 19, 2010 - 12:04 AM

[captb]

getting anything big and heavy shipped to hawaii IS GAY!!!!!! Aww man that sucks wanna take a pic and post up? I really should go get a 6gc shell to cut and fool around with.

Imagine all the parts I bought in my profile, and Guam is farther away from the mainland than hawaii is. I hate being on an island sometimes.

everytime i find an item i want, that actually has free shipping (not that 48 states only crap) it feels as if i just won a battle or something. and i noticed that though shipping for us is high from the mainland, we actually get cheaper rates from japan and hongkong. if i could only read japanese and buy from there sites then everything i own would be jdm.

[captb]

So heres the update, finally found time to work on the car and attempted to remove the bubble rust on the rear quarter window. and well, pictures are worth a thousand words.




For the record, you CANT just pry out the rear quarter window. anyways, i am in need of advice to remove, install and locate a replacement window. if you have any experience or have done something like this before, please let me know.
thanks.

[SwissFerdi]

For the record, you CANT just pry out the rear quarter window.

I'm very sorry...but the way you put the caption just made me .
Anyway, hope you find what you're looking for. I saw your WTB, and I bet some junkyards in your area might have some coupes. Much luck.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jan 19, 2010 - 12:17 AM

[captb]

^Thanks.

wouldnt the coupes and the hatches have the same rear quarter windows? can someone confirm?

ya, im gonna have to check the junkyards again but last time i checked i got zip (was looking for a bumper bout a month ago). So what exactly is the proper way to remove the window? i dont want to go to the junkyard and the exact same thing happen. thatd be an epic fail.

[SwissFerdi]

No, I'm 99% sure they do not. The rear end of the hatch window tapers off more, since the roofline is different.

[captb]

thanks, ill modify my wtb to reflect a coupe.

[CelicaST_CALI]

danggg...that sucks,you need to start sanding!!!hahaha subscribed!

[808celica]

Joel,

there's a beat down coupe at the ABC junkyard in Pearlcity. it's black and pretty gutted go check it out for your window.

[captb]

Joel,

there's a beat down coupe at the ABC junkyard in Pearlcity. it's black and pretty gutted go check it out for your window.

Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?

[808celica]

i would take it off myself. you go in, no tools yet, find the car and what you want. Then go back in with tools get the part and go to where the guys at and tell them $40 for this window glass. Dont budge on the price I really hate those guys.

[captb]

i would take it off myself. you go in, no tools yet, find the car and what you want. Then go back in with tools get the part and go to where the guys at and tell them $40 for this window glass. Dont budge on the price I really hate those guys.

k, ill try to make a trip down there if i find time tomorrow. any advice as to the proper way of taking it out though? my instincts tell me to pry carefully but im pretty sure the outcome would be the same. i noticed that there is alot of sealant holding that window inplace, i think the best way would probably to heat the glue from inside the car until you can easily pry but i dont have a heat gun.

[SwissFerdi]

Hair dryer? Worth a try. You'd have a problem getting an extension cord way out there though.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jan 19, 2010 - 1:41 PM

[captb]

Hair dryer? Worth a try. You'd have a problem getting an extension cord way out there though.

maybe worth a try but ya the extension would be a problem.

This post has been edited by captb: Jan 19, 2010 - 4:03 PM

[808celica]

havent taken a window out before mabye a rubber hammer and a putty knife?? slowly work your way around or you can bring it to a shop and tell them there's a celica in at ABC junkyard with a window go get it and install for me please

[b1gr3d]

i just skimmed through your thread so bear with me...
-DO NO FIBERGLASS ANYTHING BUT FIBERGLASS!
-if you get a toms lip then it will need to be plastic welded or bonded with a 2 part epoxy like said before.

-http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DX%26um%3D1

you need the cold knife and the long knife to do it.

1. take out your interior trim
2.get inside and u will see the pinch weld that the glass is glued to
3.take the cold knife with a 90 degree bend blade shove it into the urethane and pull (careful NOT to put too much stress on the glass or you will have to buy ANOTHER)
4.you wont be able to get in super deep so you will use the long knife to cut deeper
5.push out the glass SLIGHTLY to see if and where it moves and keep cutting where it doesnt
*the corners all are crap to do so just take your time and use a heat gun to help pull the glass away from the body and cut as you are pulling

this is the best i can do without pictures....just take your time and don't cut the trim around the glass because you will reuse it

-do not fill holes with anything but the material it is..IE weld steel don't use bondo-it WILL rust again and ruin the paint job/your hard work

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?
save your money and have a local reputable shop do it. it will look better/ last longer than maaco..which in my opinion is the WORST option

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?
use as little FILLER (bondo is one of many brands-its body filler) as possible...try not to use any because if you bump anything just right it will crack(give pictures for better answer)

(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?
cheap body kit= ****ty body kit. i had a cheap nvader kit and it was just over 1/16in thick. you could get lucky and it fits first try but more than likely you will have to heat it up and bend it into the correct shape...i say go OEM with lips/extensions OR get authentic stuff

(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?
unless there are clear holes do not cut and weld.--your doors can be salvaged pretty easy. you will need to take them off and remove the rubber, use that rust buster wheel in the picture to remove the seam sealer and rust from the door...re seam seal it (seam sealer is in a tube like caulk and is applied the same way) then after it dries you can re paint it--i suggest you strip the rust/seam sealer first...prep everything else then apply seam sealer. i had to do this with both of my doors, although they were much more mild

(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.
how good of a job do you want? is it going to be a color change? these are things to consider as well but for the most part take it all apart-i took my mirrors apart that way there would be no red visible ever. did i have to-no. but i wanted a nice finish. if you do not take them apart then u cant prep insice the mirror and overspray will get in there and eventually peel

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.
basic restoration IS ageless but techniques evolve and materials do too


I hope i am helping and not scaring you away from doing this, i am just trying to make sure you don't regret starting the project and doing it to the best of your ability---mediocrity sucks

This post has been edited by b1gr3d: Jan 20, 2010 - 2:36 PM

[davidfang]

[quote name='b1gr3d' date='Jan 20, 2010 - 2:11 PM' post='828845']
i just skimmed through your thread so bear with me...
-DO NO FIBERGLASS ANYTHING BUT FIBERGLASS!
-if you get a toms lip then it will need to be plastic welded or bonded with a 2 part epoxy like said before.

-http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DX%26um%3D1

you need the cold knife and the long knife to do it.

1. take out your interior trim
2.get inside and u will see the pinch weld that the glass is glued to
3.take the cold knife with a 90 degree bend blade shove it into the urethane and pull (careful NOT to put too much stress on the glass or you will have to buy ANOTHER)
4.you wont be able to get in super deep so you will use the long knife to cut deeper
5.push out the glass SLIGHTLY to see if and where it moves and keep cutting where it doesnt
*the corners all are crap to do so just take your time and use a heat gun to help pull the glass away from the body and cut as you are pulling

this is the best i can do without pictures....just take your time and don't cut the trim around the glass because you will reuse it

-do not fill holes with anything but the material it is..IE weld steel don't use bondo-it WILL rust again and ruin the paint job/your hard work

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?
[] save money and have a local reputable shop do it.

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?
bondo is one of many brands-its body filler if you bump anything it will fix
(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing,Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?
[b]cheap body kit= ***ty body kit. i had a cheap nvader kit and it was just over 1/16in thick. you could get lucky and it fits first try but more than likely you will have to heat it up and bend it into the correct shape...i say go OEM with lips
(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?
unless there are clear holes do not cut and weld.--your doors can be salvaged pretty easy. i will need to take them off and remove the rubber, use that rust buster wheel in the picture to remove the seam sealer and rust from the door...re seam seal it .then after it dries i can repaint it--i suggest you strip the rust
(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.
these are things to consider as well but for the most part take it all apart-i took my mirrors apart that way there would be no red visible ever. did i have to-no. but i wanted a nice finish. if you do not take them apart then u cant prep insice the mirror and overspray will get in there and eventually peel
thanks, ill modify my wtb to reflect a coupe.

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.

.basic restoration IS ageless but techniques evolve and materials do too

Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?

[captb]

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything?

[davidfang]

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same? yallow lamp ugly.turn lamp clean more better

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.
yes i check it passble
and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? :

thanks your anser so clear.but it sound diffcule.clear plastic between the part it possible.it seam difficul. thanks your advice i take few day conseder project resons to 98-99celica ..ok i clean right now

[davidfang]

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything?

Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?

[b1gr3d]

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything?

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'

[davidfang]

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything?

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'

k, ill try to make a trip down there if i find time tomorrow. any advice as to the proper way of taking it out though? my instincts tell me to pry carefully but im pretty sure the outcome would be the same. i noticed that there is alot of sealant holding that window inplace, i think the best way would probably to heat the glue from inside the car until you can easily pry but i dont have a heat gun

[captb]

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'

the 3m fusor or the toms lip.

[b1gr3d]

Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?

[captb]

Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?

its for facelifted coupes/hatches but will fit a preface just fine.

[b1gr3d]

http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1484665/5065235
glass removal

[captb]

http://video.yahoo.com/watch/1484665/5065235
glass removal

dang, that guy made it look so easy. thanks for the vid.

[captb]

i dont get to work on her much but this is how she sits. and my quarters should come any day now.




toms lip, and preface fogs...

still looking for side.

This post has been edited by captb: Mar 25, 2010 - 8:06 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Props on being innovative enough to mold a lip, major props. Very nice man.

[captb]

i seriously did my homework on plastic welding. im probably an expert by now. lol.

[captb]

how bout some input. do you think it needs a grill/mesh?

[808celica]

you might wanna reconsider the front markers. Its mandatory in Hawaii to have reflectors up on the front on the car. Most places wont pass you for saftey, but I got places that pass my car

[captb]

you might wanna reconsider the front markers. Its mandatory in Hawaii to have reflectors up on the front on the car. Most places wont pass you for saftey, but I got places that pass my car

are you talking about the turn markers or side markers? in the pic the turns are actually dangling in the back of the bumper. i really hope ur not talking about the side markers cus i really like the jdm look.

and how in the world do you not get in trouble for clear lens with white bulbs.

[808celica]

turn signals and front marker/sidemarkers are different
I know you seen my car and im running clear turns and markers **knock on wood** I just chose my roads and time of day travel very very carfully

Hawaii Law states you must have a reflective marker both in front and back, the farthest point forward and to the back for safety reasons. To me and You I really hope if in any case the Cop at the time "sees" your turns for both signals and reflective markers

[captb]

turn signals and front marker/sidemarkers are different
I know you seen my car and im running clear turns and markers **knock on wood** I just chose my roads and time of day travel very very carfully

Hawaii Law states you must have a reflective marker both in front and back, the farthest point forward and to the back for safety reasons. To me and You I really hope if in any case the Cop at the time "sees" your turns for both signals and reflective markers

i got a little worried so i read up a bit. and i think im ok. it says that indicators have to be not less than 15in and not more than 60in from the front . and ya, im with you on hoping they see the turns as reflective markers(thats the closest to the front as you can get ) i think ill run amber sides to make it more belivable... for now. hehe. my only concern now is that with this setup the indicators are always lit. you think id get into any trouble with this?

[captb]

ok, the indicator problem is solved now back to body work.

Question:
i have seen alot of people remove dents and apply bondo but i noticed that alot of people featheredge the bondo onto the paint. then they paint the entire piece over it. from what i understood, you have to at least lightly sand the existing paint before applying a new coat. wont the clear coat keep the paint from getting a good bond?

follow-up to this question is when im featheredging the bondo to existing paint, the clear coat tends to peel almost as if it were a plastic wrap. and even when i apply primer it is very noticeable where the clear stops and starts. i cant seem to featheredge the clear. is the best way to sand the entire car till the clear is removed? or do as i have seen some due and apply paint remover and try my best to get it to bare metal? i dont know if this will affect the answer but when i see the paint it seems as if it were applied as a single thick layer more susceptable to chipping.

i have to drive this car even as im doing the bodywork. is it alright that i expose the bondo to the elements for days even weeks(ex. rain) or should i apply a thin coat of primer to any unfinished surface and sand it down when i have the time to work on it again?

last question, im also installing a bodykit. should i use a sealer tape(kinda like caulking) similar to the oem kits on the corollas? and if i should, i have only seen clear and black being sold, im thinking black would look best on a red car, any suggestions?

sorry again for all the questions, im kinda a perfectionist and i need help nearly everystep of the way to make sure it turns out perfect.

[b1gr3d]

I will get more in depth later buy in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

[captb]

Thanks. id appreciate if you could clarify later. and you are correct, i can tell it has been painted base and clear over the oem paint without primer. as for the featheredging, the body filler is fine the problem is when im trying to featheredge of the existing paint. i can show you a picture of what im talking about but the clear seems to either flake off or acts like a saran wrap type of material. so you can obviously see where i have fixed a dent.

I will get more in depth later buy in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

[b1gr3d]

I will get more in depth later but in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

I will get more in depth later but in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

[captb]

looky what i did today..



and yes.. that is coolant on the floor, my new problem.

This post has been edited by captb: May 27, 2010 - 12:02 AM