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> Picking the right wheel spacers, which one to choose?
post Dec 4, 2009 - 5:00 AM
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808celica



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Just got word that FatLace/HellaFlush might be having HellaFlush 4 in Hawaii. I've been putting off getting wheel spacers with the hubcentric ring (not the knock off ones with no hub ring) for a very long time. First i was gonna get them for the GTS rims. Now I'm running my 18's daily, so which one should I get? Both are hubcentric for 54.1 centerbore on the celica. Version 1 comes with extended studs that you put in place of your stock ones. Or version 2 that has studs in the spacer itself and special gold nuts laugh.gif that fasten down your stock studs. V.2 seems to be the easier one to install, V. 1 seems to be safer cuz it's 1 lond stud. I'm only showing the brand Ichiba because they're the only one that's certain to have the extended studs for v.1 (hubcentric) or what v.2 has(lug centric).

sooo.........here's version 1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and version 2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

which one?? Now for the last question what size?? 10mm, 15mm or 20mm. I have 5mm rings that make the rim......so so. Should I get the 10mm and try it out first then go 15mm if I don't like it? or go straight the 15mm and camber the heck out of wheels to be somewhat within safety check wink.gif Either way I HAVE TO raise the car a little in order to stay within Hawaii's Road law "Rim diameter can be any size, but it must be inside of the wheel well."


and yes i did read this:
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=69919

.............all of it biggrin.gif What would Harold_Fastwaker pick?? laugh.gif

This post has been edited by 808celica: Dec 4, 2009 - 5:11 AM


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post Dec 4, 2009 - 10:05 AM
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Harold_Fastwaker



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Well, go take a ruler and measure from your wheel lip to your fender distance. Doesn't need to be perfect just a rough estimate. Since I do not know your current wheel specs I cant give you exact spacer size. But if you think 15mm will poke to much and need a good amount of negative camber then get the 10mm. Try to keep it as close to 0 camber as possible and raise the car back up a bit to even out the whole look.

so, I forgot to add, go with option 1 for spacers.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Dec 4, 2009 - 10:07 AM


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post Dec 4, 2009 - 3:31 PM
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808celica



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Hmm kk I'll get the version 1 15mm v2 20 and 25mm. I measured it and to where i want my wheels to me i need 25mm spcers wink.gif a little more agressive than what most will do.

**found H&R 25mm spacers they only have the lug centric style which im fine with**

Now that i look at it Im more into changeability cuz i know i might want them off and on constantly. Thanks Harold for you input. I guess im goingto have almost $800 worth in spacers laugh.gif just to change up the looks constantly

This post has been edited by 808celica: Dec 4, 2009 - 4:20 PM


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 4, 2009 - 5:50 PM
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95CelicaST



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Nerd. Just buy wheels that fit.


That's one great thing about the MR2. Many places sell staggered wheels with flush offsets for MR2s.


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post Dec 4, 2009 - 6:01 PM
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manphibian



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As long as you get longer studs, and go with a recognized make, like H&R you will have no problems.


If you go cheap, you will be in danger of losing a wheel, damaging suspension and bearings and losing a crapload of performance due to the extra weight that you have to rotate....


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post Dec 4, 2009 - 7:54 PM
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808celica



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QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Dec 4, 2009 - 12:50 PM) *
Nerd. Just buy wheels that fit.


That's one great thing about the MR2. Many places sell staggered wheels with flush offsets for MR2s.


laugh.gif I like these wheels though.
QUOTE (manphibian @ Dec 4, 2009 - 1:01 PM) *
As long as you get longer studs, and go with a recognized make, like H&R you will have no problems.


If you go cheap, you will be in danger of losing a wheel, damaging suspension and bearings and losing a crapload of performance due to the extra weight that you have to rotate....


Fo sho' Boss thumbsup.gif some auctions said that the extended studs only vary with car make/model. I did ask the seller though if the celica spacers for H&R he's selling has the extended studs.


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 4, 2009 - 10:16 PM
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Harold_Fastwaker



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QUOTE (manphibian @ Dec 4, 2009 - 6:01 PM) *
losing a crapload of performance due to the extra weight that you have to rotate....


I am going to put this out on the table. Those of us who go as low as possible with flush wheels and no wheel gap dont care about performance. That was tossed out the door long ago. biggrin.gif


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post Dec 4, 2009 - 10:55 PM
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domyz

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performance isn't affected by 1 pound spacers
you only feel it on no torque civics or integra, if you know enough your car to feel it

each pound added in rotational resistance is equivalent to 3 static pound
our car weight is like 1000 times more than these spacers, so if you convert that to rotational resistance (3), you add like 15 pound max.

the big difference of rotational weight is seen when adding 8 pound per wheel when swapping to bigger wheels. In this case you add like 100pound to the vehicule
post Dec 5, 2009 - 2:59 AM
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808celica



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QUOTE (Harold_Fastwaker @ Dec 4, 2009 - 5:16 PM) *
QUOTE (manphibian @ Dec 4, 2009 - 6:01 PM) *
losing a crapload of performance due to the extra weight that you have to rotate....


I am going to put this out on the table. Those of us who go as low as possible with flush wheels and no wheel gap dont care about performance. That was tossed out the door long ago. biggrin.gif



hells yeah thumbsup.gif


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 7, 2009 - 7:20 PM
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Dragondog



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whut is hellaflush.......and whut r these spacers for?....... sry its new to me but i may have a little bit of an idea....


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post Dec 7, 2009 - 11:33 PM
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epocsirhc

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check this out http://fatlace.com/hellaflush/


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post Dec 8, 2009 - 1:28 AM
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Dragondog



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ok im gettin the idea.....how does the suspention work with all this? must be real stiff? ......so spacers r for the ones who wanna keep their current rims and flush them?.......


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post Dec 8, 2009 - 8:17 AM
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azian_advanced



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QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 8, 2009 - 12:28 AM) *
ok im gettin the idea.....how does the suspention work with all this? must be real stiff? ......so spacers r for the ones who wanna keep their current rims and flush them?.......



suspension has nothing to do with it unless the rims are extended far enough to rub against the wheel arch. but with spacers, i can see that there will be more stress on your wheel bearings.


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post Dec 8, 2009 - 4:22 PM
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QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Dec 8, 2009 - 8:17 AM) *
QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 8, 2009 - 12:28 AM) *
ok im gettin the idea.....how does the suspention work with all this? must be real stiff? ......so spacers r for the ones who wanna keep their current rims and flush them?.......



suspension has nothing to do with it unless the rims are extended far enough to rub against the wheel arch. but with spacers, i can see that there will be more stress on your wheel bearings.



almost. Suspension has a lot to do with it. Need adjustable springs at minimum to lower the car as far as possible for the look, then you will need to run them fairly stiff to keep from rubbing or actually having the tires slam into your fender. Then either buy proper offset wheels or use spacers to fit the wheels to how flush you want them.


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post Dec 9, 2009 - 3:31 AM
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Dragondog



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by job i think i got it...lol......anyway......how do i measure from what to what with what to know what size offset i want

i looked at ur guide and it looks that the back is gonna be a diff offset then front.........so that means rotating tires would look funny

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Dec 9, 2009 - 3:43 AM


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post Dec 9, 2009 - 5:41 PM
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QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 9, 2009 - 3:31 AM) *
by job i think i got it...lol......anyway......how do i measure from what to what with what to know what size offset i want

i looked at ur guide and it looks that the back is gonna be a diff offset then front.........so that means rotating tires would look funny



not necessarily. If you run 17x8 wheels with 30 offset on all 4 corners then your spacers will adjust for the flushness. You can still rotate your tires. But if they have different offsets to begin with then that is a non tire rotating wheel set. Same thing like I have, 8.5 up front 9.5 in rear. No tires can be rotated.


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post Dec 9, 2009 - 5:57 PM
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808celica



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QUOTE (Harold_Fastwaker @ Dec 9, 2009 - 12:41 PM) *
QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 9, 2009 - 3:31 AM) *
by job i think i got it...lol......anyway......how do i measure from what to what with what to know what size offset i want

i looked at ur guide and it looks that the back is gonna be a diff offset then front.........so that means rotating tires would look funny



not necessarily. If you run 17x8 wheels with 30 offset on all 4 corners then your spacers will adjust for the flushness. You can still rotate your tires. But if they have different offsets to begin with then that is a non tire rotating wheel set. Same thing like I have, 8.5 up front 9.5 in rear. No tires can be rotated.


another reason why i wanna flush my wheels and not get another set. Normally rims people buy for these cars have a 30-35 range offset so GET 25mm spacers!!!!!! laugh.gif


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 10, 2009 - 5:18 PM
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Dragondog



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my thoughts are to try and do this without useing spacers.........possible with 16x7 50 or 45.........or 17x8 45...........what would be better performance wise.......or is what im askin basicly tring to start fire with water.....they dont mix

This post has been edited by Dragondog: Dec 10, 2009 - 5:23 PM


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post Dec 10, 2009 - 5:49 PM
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808celica



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QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 10, 2009 - 12:18 PM) *
my thoughts are to try and do this without useing spacers.........possible with 16x7 50 or 45.........or 17x8 45...........what would be better performance wise.......or is what im askin basicly tring to start fire with water.....they dont mix


is the 50/45 the series of the tire or your offset??

16x7wheels w/ 205 or 215/45/16 tires with lets say 5+offset should give you the look. keep in mind though the lower your offset and the wider the rim the more chance you have to rub on something. A Tein S-tech spring drop or 1.5-2in drop should be safe IMO.


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post Dec 10, 2009 - 9:27 PM
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QUOTE (808celica @ Dec 10, 2009 - 11:49 PM) *
QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 10, 2009 - 12:18 PM) *
my thoughts are to try and do this without useing spacers.........possible with 16x7 50 or 45.........or 17x8 45...........what would be better performance wise.......or is what im askin basicly tring to start fire with water.....they dont mix


is the 50/45 the series of the tire or your offset??

16x7wheels w/ 205 or 215/45/16 tires with lets say 5+offset should give you the look. keep in mind though the lower your offset and the wider the rim the more chance you have to rub on something. A Tein S-tech spring drop or 1.5-2in drop should be safe IMO.



sry yes the 50/45 is series...not offset..........................ok so 16x7 45 with 5+ offset would be better performance wise then 17x8 45 and ? offset.........also how flush would the 5+ offset make it?.........


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post Dec 10, 2009 - 9:37 PM
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808celica



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QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 10, 2009 - 4:27 PM) *
QUOTE (808celica @ Dec 10, 2009 - 11:49 PM) *
QUOTE (Dragondog @ Dec 10, 2009 - 12:18 PM) *
my thoughts are to try and do this without useing spacers.........possible with 16x7 50 or 45.........or 17x8 45...........what would be better performance wise.......or is what im askin basicly tring to start fire with water.....they dont mix


is the 50/45 the series of the tire or your offset??

16x7wheels w/ 205 or 215/45/16 tires with lets say 5+offset should give you the look. keep in mind though the lower your offset and the wider the rim the more chance you have to rub on something. A Tein S-tech spring drop or 1.5-2in drop should be safe IMO.



sry yes the 50/45 is series...not offset..........................ok so 16x7 45 with 5+ offset would be better performance wise then 17x8 45 and ? offset.........also how flush would the 5+ offset make it?.........


HAhahahah 17x8 is the better choice. 5+ will make it..........HellaFlush laugh.gif


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 10, 2009 - 10:49 PM
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Dragondog



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ok 17x8 45 +5 offset=hellaflush.....so +5 for frnt and back?........i want a nice clean hellaflush look on the back....even if it it means diff rim size then front.........however unless it will look good i dont want it to be that noticable.......not sure if 18s in back and 17 in frnt would look good......or 17 in back 16 in front......or just straight 16s all over......or just straight 17s all over.....of course with the right offsets....dont get me wrong cuz i also want the front to be flushed as well....and keep in mind i wana keep what little power my car has not make it any slower....this stuff is tuff cuz i dont wanna make a choice and then regret wastin my money on it


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post Dec 11, 2009 - 2:44 AM
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808celica



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for me, i would just get the same sizes all around so you can rotate. Dont quote me on the 5+ though i still have to experiment with my offset to get the right look i want. your best bet would be go to a smart shop that sells rims and tell them you want a flush look.


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post Dec 13, 2009 - 5:08 PM
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Dragondog



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i understand the whole meaning of flush and what spacers r but now i woundering if someone could expain all the numbers and how they all work together such as offset and spacer thickness and how to caculate what offset to go with... and spacers.......i saw the chart mentioned earlyer but to me the offset numbers just look like number and i dnt know the meaning


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post Dec 14, 2009 - 12:52 AM
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QUOTE (808celica @ Dec 11, 2009 - 2:44 AM) *
for me, i would just get the same sizes all around so you can rotate. Dont quote me on the 5+ though i still have to experiment with my offset to get the right look i want. your best bet would be go to a smart shop that sells rims and tell them you want a flush look.



+5 in the front will poke out like crazy. So you better run crazy front camber if you want it to look right. But then your rear will be at 0 camber and the whole look will fail. You cant run the same offset all the way around if you want it to be flush without spacers. You would be better off getting the front flush with no spacer and then add the spacer to the rear.


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post Dec 16, 2009 - 5:28 AM
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QUOTE (808celica @ Dec 4, 2009 - 5:00 AM) *
...Either way I HAVE TO raise the car a little in order to stay within Hawaii's Road law "Rim diameter can be any size, but it must be inside of the wheel well."


do you have recon on urs? if i got strut and springs and dropped say 1.5" back and 2" front would i need recon?
post Dec 16, 2009 - 7:19 AM
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808celica



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haha my recon sticker is kinda legit for some of the things i have on the car XD never went back and got it updated, that's why the car rarely leaves the Kahuku to Kaneohe/ Kahuku to Haleiwa areas. If I get tagged then they can impound my car or just right me a FAAAAAAAATTT ticket frown.gif

any mod to suspension requires recon (in Oahu, Hawaii)

Rims are allowed if they're 2in" above stock size, any bigger you need recon. Also rims must be inside of the fender, they cant sick out. You must pass the 2in bounce test on the suspension, so if you have full coils dont make the setting stiff just yet wink.gif
Tint, need recon, but 2dr cars cant have tint what so ever. 4drs and vans can go limo dark if they want. its up to the recon inspection to deem pass or fail.
Exhaust/Intake doesnt need recon cuz we dont have smog/emission tests
Engine swaps dont need recon if you're staying with the same # of cylinders it can with. i.e. 5s = 4cyl so you can drop in the 3sgte. if you do a v6 swap then most definitely you need recon.
Body kits.......well some say you dont need and some say you need, as long as you have the crash bar you should be okay. IMO bodykits dont apply to recon. Same goes for spoilers
C/F hoods you need the hood pins.

When you make an appointment for recon, you must have a recent alignment print out (especially when going for drop) and you must disclose all mods done to the car. Of course........you dont have to tell them everything, just the stuff you want on your recon sheet.

I forgot the height requirement for the center of the headlight, IIRC it was 22inches from the ground. Also no clear aftermarket lights, you wont pass period. It all depends on the stupid recon inspector, if he like you (which he should cuz you dont seem like the usual.......what do they call it now?? Intimidating kid/teen/young adult). If he's having a bad day, make sure you make it easy for them when they check your car laugh.gif



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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Dec 16, 2009 - 7:02 PM
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Dragondog



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found this....kinda off topic but it helped me learn what the numbers mean........
http://www.americanracingwheelsinfo.com/wheel_offset.htm


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post Dec 16, 2009 - 7:23 PM
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808celica



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nah not off topic man. it goes with the topic. plus i dont mind my threads getting off topic a little. Naturally we have fairly hight offset stock.


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island

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