Installed RacingBeat Rear Links, ..goodbye TwosRUs Options

[azian_advanced]

So here's the story. As i was in the middle of upgrading my suspension from teins to even better teins, i had sheared one of the studs off of the TwosRUs links because it had fused with the sway bar. apparently links should always be greased up since they swivel and rub with the sway bar while going over bumps so i can imagine the heat or friction occurring and cause the bolts to seize. so instead of ordering another pair, i decided to try something else. after a quick search, i found out a couple of members are using racingbeat rear links off of a 90-97 miata without problems.

After a quick comparison between the two I have to say that not only are the RacingBeat links more affordable than the TwosRUs ones ($59 vs. $75 for the pair), but they're imo beefier and better designed. the studs don't have spherical joints unlike the TwosRUs links and instead have urethane bushings so it provides a stiffer connection with the sway bar and the struts. these can also be adjusted in length just like the TwosRUs links.

..so if you're going to upgrade springs and/or rear endlinks, go for these.. just make sure you grease all the bolts and between the washers and swaybar for easy removal in the future. Now I just need to find similar ones for the front...


Link: 90-97 Miata Sway Bar Rear End Links














RacingBeat Miata vs. TwosRUS ST185 Rear Links





The TwosRUs links in their prime






This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Sep 21, 2012 - 2:01 AM

[blu94gt]

I'm surprised no one has done something like this before. End links are pretty simple lol

Thanks for the tip on these though, look like a much better replacement for our cars.

[SwissFerdi]

Very interesting thread, I will need this in the future. Thanks azian.

So can anyone chime in on these versus Autozone or equivalent end links?

[nics]

how long you had those twosrus links? looks like as old as a 6gc

[azian_advanced]

had them for a couple of years.. they look like **** cuz of all the sand and snow on the roads

[99GT]

Very nice.

[jordisonjr]

So how did you know what length to set up the end links at? Did you just set them at the same length of the TwoRU's? Will this add any proformance over the stock rear endlinks?

[BonzaiCelica]

Well since we all know you drive through sand and dirt like you said. So Im sure that if I were to install the two r us end links they wouldnt look so beat up like yours after a few years.

I do live in Southern California where it is 80% sunny all year around, So I dont think my end links would get that bad, but being that the TwoRu's are metal, they would seem to be more rigidy and dont require grease unlike the racingbeats links.

But Im still learning so correct me if Im wrong.

BTW nice Find azain advanced, now we have a cheaper and another alternative to aftermarket end links

[Remy]

Have you ever notified twosrus about that problem azian ?? Mines seems to be holding up just fine right now though they are less then a year old.

[GriffGirl]

That's a good question, about how you know what length to adjust the endlinks to. I have the Twosrus endlinks on my rears, I think I just kep them as they came, which was the same length as the OEM ones I was replacing. What's the advantage to them being adjustable, and how do you know what the correct adjustment is?

[b1gr3d]

typically the shorter they are the more the stiffer they are....hope that made some sense

[jordisonjr]

So If the shorter they are, the stiffer they are, what would be the advantages to having stiffer endlinks over softer end links? or what woudl be the difference from soft to stiff end links be?

[azian_advanced]

i could be wrong on this but since the twosrus links have spherical bearings, during a turn the sway bar will put a horizontal force on the end links, the joints will rotate a bit of distance before meeting the maximum it can bend so technically there is a bit of play before the sway bar absorbs the forces.

right now, i have the endlinks set just a few millimeters shorter than stock (or shorter than how the twosrus links came in as). by shortening the end link length, it sort of tightens the connection between the sway bar and struts so it stiffens the suspension in the rear end. i read up on wiki how shortening the end links "pre-loads" the sway bar so i guess it means the sway bar is always put under some load.

after driving for a few days with these, it really shows in the handling how bad i need to replace my worn rear suspension arm bushings.. i'll be replacing them this weekend or the next, but more importantly, it stiffened up the rear than before. i'm not sure if it's just the links or the fact that i shortened them a bit more than stock, or if it's because of my new gt4 rear springs, but it feels much stiffer than the effect of adding the gt4 rear strut bar that's for sure (which didn't feel any different imo). on semi-snowy/semi-paved roads, it feels easier to break the rear tires loose with quick braking to shift the weight to the front, and a quick turn of the wheel (w\o using the e-brake).

i can't say i'm fully satisfied just yet until i fix my rear bushings and re-evaluate.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Feb 4, 2010 - 12:17 AM

[GriffGirl]

This is great info, keep us updated on your findings please

[b1gr3d]

So If the shorter they are, the stiffer they are, what would be the advantages to having stiffer endlinks over softer end links? or what woudl be the difference from soft to stiff end links be?

i was refering to the action of the sway bar ..read what azian wrote in reference to your question

[playr158]

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2231431
also
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163/do-i-...-stechs-416425/

^good explanation on endlinks and how to use them

(you want the endlinks to be EQUAL lengths, and try to make the sway bar parallel to the ground at static ride height.)

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 4, 2010 - 9:40 AM

[Culpable04]

just ordered a set, I wasn't too thrilled by the whole " you'll be charge for UPS freight charges " so technically, they can charge me 40 bucks for shipping and there will be not much I could do, but will see.

[azian_advanced]

shipping to me was $13.45, which i consider to be fairly reasonable.

[Culpable04]

since they are adjustable, wouldn't the same links fit on the front as well ? they even advertise them for front or rear for the miata, so if hte length is around the same, it can be adjusted to fit on the front as well, or did you measure already and they are way off ?

[SwissFerdi]

Would you mind letting me know how long shipping took? I need these for next weekend.

[azian_advanced]

since they are adjustable, wouldn't the same links fit on the front as well ? they even advertise them for front or rear for the miata, so if hte length is around the same, it can be adjusted to fit on the front as well, or did you measure already and they are way off ?

they can't be adjusted short enough to match the front endlinks.. but i'm pretty sure they can be made to fit with minor modification.. if you have a rethreading kit you can continue the threads so they are closer to the center, then grind off the ends to shorten the stud.

Would you mind letting me know how long shipping took? I need these for next weekend.

delivery was 5-7 business days to Canada.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Feb 9, 2010 - 12:16 AM

[Culpable04]

I have a tap / die set, I'll see when they get here, I'll see how much it needs to be cut and threads extended, if I see it's not much so I can get it done at home, I'll order another set and install them on the front.

doesn't sound like I can't be done

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Feb 9, 2010 - 12:53 PM

[RocketScott]

What are you going to do with the old end link? If you don't want it could you send it to me?

I've been trying to find a cheaper source for these but without much luck. It's hard to scale the pictures and get the sizing right. It would be much easier to walk into the hardware shop with one in hand and ask for a replacement.

Here is what I have found online but I have a couple of shops in Tacoma that sell stuff like this:
Rod Ends

[Culpable04]

did you see the prices ? how would that be a cheaper replacement ? I can see why I would want them, but cheaper ? I don't think so

[RocketScott]

The link I posted was just to show that these aren't custom pieces. McMaster-Carr is always the most expensive but they have just about everything. I have three shops in Tacoma, my favorite being Tacoma Screw , that sell these. I bet they have those for around $5 each end. Add the threaded rod and fasteners and your looking at less than $30 for both sides. The smallest USPS flat rate box ships for $4.85 anywhere in the country. So for less than $35 you could have the same thing as the $75 end links.

If we wanted to get a little more expesive we could get rods made with male threads on one end and female on the other so they could be adjusted without taking them off the strut or sway bar. I might be able to find that part off the shelf so it might not be that much more.

[SwissFerdi]

Well, I'm going to get some from Autozone and see how it goes. I don't have time to order the Racingbeat ones by this weekend.

[richee3]

Well, I'm going to get some from Autozone and see how it goes. I don't have time to order the Racingbeat ones by this weekend.

Sure you do. When I did my suspension swap, I ran my car without end links for about 2 weeks. I used some tie wire to tie the sway bar up out of the way just until I got the end links. If you feel that the quality is worth the wait, then I'd say go for the RacingBeat end links.

[SwissFerdi]

Sure you do. When I did my suspension swap, I ran my car without end links for about 2 weeks. I used some tie wire to tie the sway bar up out of the way just until I got the end links. If you feel that the quality is worth the wait, then I'd say go for the RacingBeat end links.

I know, but how do you think moms would feel if I ghetto-rigged it and then it would ride like ****? She needs to trust the installation. I'm planning on ordering the Racingbeat end links anyway, maybe I can return the Autozone ones.

[chacha]

update if the rear will work with the fronts?

[Culpable04]

update if the rear will work with the fronts?

based on what azian said, they can be made to work, I won't be trying it myself until I get a second set on hand, and I haven't even gotten the first set I ordered, once I get them and mod them I'll post my findings, but a tap / die kit + and cutting tool should be all you need to do this.

[azian_advanced]

update:

so apparently i had one rear bushing go bad.. so bad that it was the cause of my loose steering feeling.. to make things worse, i ordered the wrong set of bushings (i got the non sport suspension bushings instead of the sport suspension) so i'll be putting them up FS soon. anyway, one of the long bolts holding the two control arms to the knuckle on the rear passenger side was seized. my dad and i spent about an hour torching, lubricating, and even used a 4ft pipe as an extension to try and get the bolt out. we got the bolt to turn but it wouldn't come out for some reason. so we gave up and brought it to a nearby shop which belongs to a family friend of ours. even he couldn't get it out at first.. lol. but what he did was he dropped the entire rear crossmember and used a whole tank of propane to heat the knuckle and get the bolt out. so $115 later, my car was back together with the new bushing put in and i was on my way.

now about the end links... it's winter here and i have to say i am liking these endlinks very much.. the rear end doesn't 'roll' as much as the old links did and turning feels better. it added more oversteer but can be a bit tail happy on snow if i turn a little recklessly. overall, i'm happy with the way the car feels now.

[Culpable04]

I received mines last week, I've been playing with them, I think I found a rod that matches the thread pithc so I can install a set of these on the front, need to check if the rod it's the right lenght as is, but these wil go on the rear, a second set will be ordered for the front.

I'm glad you are having a good experience with these links, I like the craftmanship on them, look really solid and beffey, I will install on the rear, this weekend.

[Batman722]

I jumped on the bandwagon.

[IllIllIll]

Nice work. I never even thought about how the spherical rod ends or Hiem joints can be assembled your self. I bought new stock type end links front & rear when I did my suspension work. You can find places that build high quality joints & get some the proper size with a little research.

I noticed that the threads are exposed on the Racing beat ones. Not that it matters, because after you install them most people will probably never adjsut them again, but you could probably get a short length of rubber hose fill it with grease & slide it over the threaded rod before you put the end link together. This would keep the threads from getting all rusty so you could adjust the rod length later with out a lot of corrosion on the threads.

[RocketScott]

Mmmm Tasty...

[95CelicaST]

I was installing my sportlines this weekend and rounded out the oem endlink on the front driver's side, so I initially thought of this thread.



But then I realized the ends of the Racing Beat links wouldn't fit in the endlink housing on the MR2 struts, so I ended up buying a Front and Rear set of High&Tight endlinks from TwosRUs..... at the tune of $217.00.










But I get a free sticker, so that means something, right?

[playr158]

Mmmm Tasty...

win

[ChfNix]

Mmmm Tasty...

Those look sweet!! Can we get some more info on these?!?!

[RocketScott]

Anodized aluminum with stainless steel hardware. I just need to cut some spacers for the rears and put them on.

I opened an account with the supplier of the red anodized bits. The rest of the hardware I got locally because I was just buying enough to figure things out. The beauty of having an LLC with a nondescript name is that I can pretty much make up whatever Rocket Scott LLC "does" when anyone asks.

[kamax]

Anodized aluminum with stainless steel hardware. I just need to cut some spacers for the rears and put them on.

I opened an account with the supplier of the red anodized bits. The rest of the hardware I got locally because I was just buying enough to figure things out. The beauty of having an LLC with a nondescript name is that I can pretty much make up whatever Rocket Scott LLC "does" when anyone asks.

you planning on making and selling those?

[SwissFerdi]

I just need to cut some spacers for the rears and put them on.

Spacers for the wheels? I'd like to see what you go with, since the rears are atrociously sunk in...it'd be awesome if they could be made flush.

[RocketScott]

No I need to make spacers for the end links. The mount on the strut and the mount on the sway bar are offset so I want to make sure the alignment is right and doesn't bind.

If there is interest I can put these together and sell them. There is a pretty steep discount for ordering quantities of the parts to make these. When I ordered these they gave me a break because I was a new account. The allthread also comes in three foot lengths and I only needed 2 1/2 inches for each side.

[Batman722]

the bad thing about those and twosrus are the sperical bearings.
the great things about the miata ones is they are stiff, no ply, just hold the rear in place. I have seen a notcable difference since installing....I will never go back to those...the stiff miata one are where it's at, and I drive my car like it should driven

[azian_advanced]

the bad thing about those and twosrus are the sperical bearings.
the great things about the miata ones is they are stiff, no ply, just hold the rear in place. I have seen a notcable difference since installing....I will never go back to those...the stiff miata one are where it's at, and I drive my car like it should driven

couldn't have said it better myself.. this was the point i failed at trying to get across when i made this thread.
these are so much better than the twosrus links.

[azian_advanced]

.. and is the cheapest, best upgrade under $100

[jordisonjr]

Has anything else been found for the front either then modifying the racing beat rear's to fit the front?

[RocketScott]

Just for comparison purposes everything cost me a little over $100 for all four corners. Buying only two of the male threaded joints made the price a little higher than it could be.

[jordisonjr]

So if you lower your carr, should you have your endlinks adjusted to be shorter than from the factory, Or longer?

Also, is the purpose of having adjustable endlinks so that you can adjust the enlink so there is no preloading in the sway bar?

Sorry I don't meanto bring back a thread, but I read a bunch of links posted, and I got kinda confused. Any answers would be awesome, thanks guys.

[pittfirefighter]

these are just about removing the purpose of the endlink altogether... they are going to add side to side motion to the endlink... which is not possible in the sphere... there is little to no rotational movement - you might as well just weld a bar between the mount and sway bar... it would serve the same purpose as these endlinks

as far as the distance between the endlinks... it makes absolutely NO difference as to how long or short the endlink is as long as you can get it to fit... the adjustable idea is to remove the preload... which as long as you do everything right, you shouldn't have any anyways... getting the bar to be horizontal as stated is the biggest lead on i've ever heard... its the bolt in the endlink that needs to be horizontal... the sway bar is to reduce side to side motion since the invention of independent suspension.... yes the polymounts will give you a stiffer ride for the time being... but you are going to burn out other parts very quickly including your shocks... you are putting all the stress on the shocks rather than on the sway bar, not to mention your a arm bushings are going to get destroyed as well... this is a cheap mans bandaid to the problem of suspension... put the money down and upgrade the parts that need it... first off... thicker sway bar... the stock sway bar is junk

these are in no way a better upgrade than the twosrus endlinks...

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 3:40 PM

[jordisonjr]

So your saying that the twosrus enlinks would be better then these ones? Would the twosrus be better then the stock endlinks? And how would you remove the preload from the sway bar?

From what i've read, I thought that the length of your endlinks and a car would determine if there is preload. Like if you lower your car and have he factory endlinks on, the sway bar will always be pre loaded, unless you get shorter end links. And I've also read that the sway bar needs to be parallel with he ground.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Jun 6, 2010 - 4:18 PM

[pittfirefighter]

NO BOTH OF THOSE ARE FALSE - if you lower your car, as long as both sides are lowered the same amount, there is no preload... it may limit the effectiveness of the endlinks because the bolts may no longer be parallel with the ground, but with the celica setup - the front has NOTHING to do with ride height... the endlinks are attached to the A-Frame, not the shocks, the back it is attached to the knuckle... some of the things said in the thread are ridiculous... i really need pictures to fully show what is going on with these...

the sway bar being parallel with the ground has nothing to do with the endlinks at all... the endlinks affect the degree between the mounting location on the knuckle/aframe and the pivot point... think of it like this... take a piece of wood like a 2x4 for instance that is say 6 feet long - now push on it against a nonmoving object like a wall with the 6ft section between you and the wall.... so one end of the wood is against the wall and the other is against your stomach or arms... you are pushing on it with the width of the board parallel to the ground... now rotate that wood so that is it perp to the groun or at a 45 degree angle... push on in the same way... does the rotation make any difference on how strong it is? the mounts (pivots) of the sway bar to the frame MAKE IT PARALLEL to the ground in the orientation that matters


the racingbeat endlinks will give a stiffer feel - but limit the POSITIVE movement of the suspension... putting terrible stress on other parts... the twosrus endlinks are made to create a stiffer feel while REMOVING stress on other parts of the suspension... if you drive your vehicle once a month at a track event and want the best feel - skip the racingbeat endlinks (the only time these would even be considered) and weld a bar between the mount and sway bar- thus eliminating independent suspension, otherwise for daily driving that is improved while not sacrificing reliability - twosrus are the way to go

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 5:59 PM

[pittfirefighter]

the bad thing about those and twosrus are the sperical bearings.
the great things about the miata ones is they are stiff, no ply, just hold the rear in place. I have seen a notcable difference since installing....I will never go back to those...the stiff miata one are where it's at, and I drive my car like it should driven

thats wrong... the good thing about the twosrus and those ARE the spherical bearings...

the sphere allows rotational motion ONLY
the bushings allow rotational and transverse motion... the bolt can move as a whole from side to side as well as up and down

Toyota decided to use the spherical endlink for a reason - a bushing puts stress on all other parts of the suspension... thus limiting effectiveness and reliability in the long run

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 5:48 PM

[Batman722]

I agree they put more stress on the rest of the suspension, but so does lowering springs, poly bushings, or any sort of suspension upgrades.

Toyota uses many things (like sperical bearings) for better ride quality. Once you do any suspension upgrades you put more stress and weaken many componets in the long run.

[jordisonjr]

Alright so I'm pretty confused on this, and I need to replace my endlinks pretty bad. They are stripped and won't get any tighter and make a terrible clicking sound.
I daily drive my car, SO which endlinks should I get, the racing beat? or the tworus?

[TEAMFaint]

Will these work for the ST205?
Any insight would be appreciated.

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Ive been using the racing beat end links for a coupe of years, the problem ive found is there is a vertical distance between the two ends (sway bar and strut tab) meaning there is unusual twisting on the bushes in the end links. Im pretty sure thats whats squeeking in the arse end of my car (since every single bush is new as of a couple of weeks ago)

[HectortheRican]

Other than the Megan Racing coilovers and a bushing set that I'll get in the near future (no extra money right now) My suspension will be pretty much stock. Would it be a good idea to get these Racing Beat end links?

[ChfNix]

Other than the Megan Racing coilovers and a bushing set that I'll get in the near future (no extra money right now) My suspension will be pretty much stock. Would it be a good idea to get these Racing Beat end links?

I'm in the same boat! Anyone have an opinion on this? I am planning on getting the Megan's, the bushing kit, some new sway bars and these end links, is there anything else I should upgrade while I'm at it?

[HectortheRican]

I'm in the same boat! Anyone have an opinion on this? I am planning on getting the Megan's, the bushing kit, some new sway bars and these end links, is there anything else I should upgrade while I'm at it?

3SGTE? lolol

[ChfNix]

3SGTE? lolol

That comes after the suspension upgrade!

[azian_advanced]

nvm

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Aug 2, 2010 - 10:53 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

how about these for the front sway bar links??? they should be better than the two's r us????

http://cgi.ebay.com/FRONT-SWAY-BAR-END-LIN...=item45f832621b

[HectortheRican]

how about these for the front sway bar links??? they should be better than the two's r us????

http://cgi.ebay.com/FRONT-SWAY-BAR-END-LIN...=item45f832621b

I dunno, but they sure don't LOOK better than the Twos R Us ones. Lol. Plus they aren't adjustable.

[BonzaiCelica]

how about these for the front sway bar links??? they should be better than the two's r us????

http://cgi.ebay.com/FRONT-SWAY-BAR-END-LIN...=item45f832621b

I dunno, but they sure don't LOOK better than the Twos R Us ones. Lol. Plus they aren't adjustable.

hmm ya they look like the thickness of stock ones. I'll just go with two's r us up front just to be safe as other members have used them with good results.

[HectortheRican]

hmm ya they look like the thickness of stock ones. I'll just go with two's r us up front just to be safe as other members have used them with good results.

I already have the Racing Beats in the rear and I'll be getting the ST185 Twos R Us fronts when I buy the F/R ST sways.

[trdproven]

Heres other cars that show they have the same front suspension end links. maybe someone would want to research if these other cars have good aftermarket ones. i kinda doubt cus the rest are grocery getters but something to take a look at. you just have to figure out between the cars if the fronts or rears is the same because you could use a front link for a rear link in another car, depends.

Anyway whats a good endlink vs cost of regular ones. I found these for a 5th gen, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST184...=item20c4e54dff. It looks like its mixing the bushing arm type end link to make it fit our right angle end links. Less of a spherical movement now and just more of a damn bushing to be honest from the picture - similar to racingbeat. What are you guys thoughts on the design? OR get the Mevotechs that are basically OEM replacements that are Beefier. http://www.6gc.net/forums/lofiversion/inde...73360-2650.html

Toyota
Celica (94-99) AT200 ST204
Camry (92-96) SXV10 MCV10 VCV10
Avalon (95-96) MCX10
Corolla (93-02) AE101 AE102 ZZE110
Rav4 (96-00) (2DR) SXA15 SXA10

Lexus
ES300 (92-96) VCV10 MCV10

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 22, 2012 - 7:20 PM

[jordisonjr]

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...-sway-bar-links

Here's some for the front and rear.

[trdproven]

the design concept sounds good because you dont have to worry about adjusting it correctly and it comes with upgraded bushings. OEM are just OEMs and Racing beat/twosrus are adjustable, stronger links but i guess I don't really need the adjustability part, unless that affects how much lower you can go.

[jordisonjr]

I don't think so.
I but the adjustable oens from twos r us, and they are adjustable.
I'm not even sure why or how you would need to adjust them, or what benefit it would have.

I simply installed them right out of the box, as is and haven't touched them since.
How would adjusting them benefit you?

[SwissFerdi]

Doesn't the relation between the two end link mounts change in coordination with the "height" of the suspension setup? Roughly speaking, OEM suspension setup will take a longer end link, whereas using coilovers to lower will require a shorter endlink?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 22, 2012 - 9:49 PM

[trdproven]

^ thats the general concept, the other thing is how much do you adjust besides shortening them because of the lowered ride height, im guessing when studs become horizontal while the car is on the ground or on flat.

[Syaoran]

Doesn't the relation between the two end link mounts change in coordination with the "height" of the suspension setup? Roughly speaking, OEM suspension setup will take a longer end link, whereas using coilovers to lower will require a shorter endlink?

No.

[trdproven]

^ actually, it is common to use shorter endlinks especially when your car is lowered. if not, you have both studs stressing pointing down or up. you can feel the stress they take in order to put them on. I only noticed this on my 7th gen, and it is common talk on forums.

[azian_advanced]

the links need to be of equal length so that the sway bar isn't pre-stressed.
while pre-stressing is not necessarily a bad thing, it just means that you won't get the same roll stiffness doing LH turns as you would doing RH turns (and vice versa).

they're also adjustable so that you can change the direction of force the end link is putting on the sway bar the moment you start getting body roll.
ideally, you want the link to be 90 degrees with the sway bar where it meets the sway bar bushings. it'll allow more torque to transfer from one end of the sway bar bushing to the next during cornering.
basically, it'll maximize the performance of the sway bar.


i made a diagram to show the angle i'm referring to.




during auto-cross events where you're always cornering left and right & putting more cornering loads on the suspension, it'll be better to have it at a slightly higher angle.
for example, if at maximum cornering load the angle (in the picture) reaches a minimum of 86 degrees which is when the suspension achieves its highest length of travel giving you a maximum deflection angle of 4 degrees (90-86=4), then it would be better to have it set to around 92 degrees when static (90+4/2=92) so that deflection angles range between 88-92 degrees and always maximizing the anti-roll performance of your set-up.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 23, 2012 - 10:11 AM

[Culpable04]

^ because of that reason, if you ever take your car to be corner balanced for a racing setup ( or DD pleasure lol ) you'll be require to have adjustable end links along with coilovers. the end links are used to transfer small weight loads from side to side to " balanced " the weight distribution of the car.

[trdproven]

but what are the advantages between spherical and this bushing bolt type? would it be alright to get the GT4 Racing endlinks that have poly bushings but no adjustability?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 23, 2012 - 5:10 PM

[azian_advanced]

the ball-joint type endlinks allow some independent suspension travel before any torque is transmitted through the sway bar. they're ideal for a more comfortable ride especially if you hit bumpy roads often.

the good thing about TwosRUs links are that they have adjustable lengths so that you can adjust the amount of suspension travel but the ball joint's degree of rotation is a little high if you're already on lowering springs and especially if you're on coilovers since suspension travel is already shortened.

those gt4 racing endlinks are not only non-adjustable but they're also overpriced. the racingbeat links are half the price, adjustable, and have better quality judging from the pics.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 23, 2012 - 8:57 PM

[trdproven]

i looked at the racingbeat ones and they seem to be more expensive 65, vs gt4 ones at 50some. which ones are they and arent they only for the rears?

i might end up getting the beefier Mevotechs, idk yet.

[TerBeau]

Didn't read farther but will the sway bars fit too? Just curious

[Syaoran]

^ actually, it is common to use shorter endlinks especially when your car is lowered. if not, you have both studs stressing pointing down or up. you can feel the stress they take in order to put them on. I only noticed this on my 7th gen, and it is common talk on forums.

They are not necessary. They would not be stressed unless presented with excessive lowering, which in turn would mean a decrease in performance. Lowering the car too much doesn't necessarily make it handle better, also "common talk on forums". Aftermarket endlinks are only needed for a road car once it has been lowered beyond what is good for performance, or when aftermarket swaybars are used, or both.

[trdproven]

its not necessary but you can see the studs are no longer in horizontal position and the endlinks become a b*tch to take out because now you have to remove it a certain way. and you f'en destroy those factory length endlinks with a low drop height. plus small height drops to me are waste of money and time to do 1" drop. in general lowering the car does make it handle better cus you are lowering the center of gravity however, suspension is many different factors that must be considered, aftermarket parts and tuning the suspension for a specific application and so on and so forth. but yea you dont need shorter endlinks but you can tell the difference betweeen a good drop height that its tougher to get it in there and out plus companies supply the shorter ones too because of these drop heights. but shorter endlinks or adjustable endlinks is common talks in forums and is known by the industry because of adjustability and drop heights. or else they would just sell factory lengths with just better bushings and no adjustability (adjustability for tuning and length adjustment). my questions for the most part in this thread is just to ask about the products itself.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 28, 2012 - 5:37 PM

[marinos]

I have found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST1...f#ht_1251wt_952

is for the t18 celicas nut if I am not mistaken there are members that use t18s endlinks for the t20s, but again I am not sure.

so what is your opinion on this?

And something else about the polyurethane , I heard that there are need to grease them frequently or else they squeek
is this true or it is a problem of some certain manufacturers?

[jordisonjr]

Not sure about PU in the end links but I've had it in my front LCAs for about a year now and still no squeeking and I haven't greased then since I put then in.
Also, just put PU around my sway bar in the rear and haven't heard anything from then yet

[richee3]

I just installed the RacingBeat end links in my car a few days ago, replacing the 4 year old AutoZone specials. I didn't notice any immediate huge difference with them, but these are definitely much sturdier and much better quality. After a few days of driving and taking a few small corners, I can tell that the car feels a bit tighter. Overall I'm very pleased with these and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

I also ran into a snag with shipping, and customer service was very quick to correct the issue and get them out to me a few days before I was expecting them.

[trdproven]

I have found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST1...f#ht_1251wt_952

is for the t18 celicas nut if I am not mistaken there are members that use t18s endlinks for the t20s, but again I am not sure.

so what is your opinion on this?

And something else about the polyurethane , I heard that there are need to grease them frequently or else they squeek
is this true or it is a problem of some certain manufacturers?

gt4 racing endlinks have been around for some time, but i dont think anyone ever bought them on this site. i was interested in buying them at one point, they have the same design as the whiteline models. I would more than likely get them the 2nd time around if i still have the car or needed it. they were going for like 169 shipped for all 4 to Guam but IDK it might be cheaper to the states. ask the guy for discount, the site is gt4-racing. I'd be interested to know the results of the install.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 27, 2012 - 11:02 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

one argue that you need spherical end links as to where the racing beat is just plain bolt on. so who is right? yes I read with racing beat it wears all other parts alot faster. that with spherical end links you put the stress on the sway bar it self as to with racing beat you put stress on the shock.

when i think of it does the sway bar even move much at all??? if so how much??

ahh found this link. the rear suspension on a subaru is the same as our FWD celica's and the same as gt4 celica's. read the first post on this page as written by a suspension company the difference between poly and spherical end links.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...1293&page=2

also another subaru website:

e offer several brands and styles of endlinks. I've sold a whole lot of endlinks and there have been happy customers with every brand and style we sell. Endlinks are a part that can be designed and built in very different ways each having its own drawbacks and advantages. Up until recently the two most popular styles were spherical bearing and urethane bushing endlinks. Both of these designs have issues. Spherical bearing endlinks are known to make noise in some cases. This is usually because dirt has gotten into the bearing. Urethane bushing endlinks have also been known to make noise in some cases. If a bolt doesn't pass through them at a 90 degree angle it puts stress on everything. Other types of endlinks allow free movement, but urethane endlinks resist anything that is not 90 degrees. In many cases this is not severe enough to cause binding and noise problems, but it is definitely a possibility. The other problem with urethane bushings is they are soft. They flex around quite a bit which puts a buffer between the swaybar and lower control arm. They don 't allow the swaybar to do its job as quickly or effectively, so they don’t perform as well.

The new style I have been running and recommending is called a ball link. Whiteline started offering sealed ball link endlinks in 2010. This style of endlink brings together the best of both worlds. They perform significantly better than urethane bushing endlinks since they don't use spongy urethane bushings. They also fit better than urethane bushing endlinks since they allow free movement, but unlike spherical bearing endlinks they don't make noise. They cost a little more than urethane endlinks, but the difference in fit/performance is well worth the price.


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jan 14, 2013 - 6:53 PM

[azian_advanced]

the difference is with spherical bearings (assuming they are centered), the outer strut is able to travel a certain amount before it puts load on the inner strut while cornering. with polyurethane bushings, there is no room for play in the endlinks so as soon as there is suspension travel one strut, it immediately puts load on the opposite strut and that's why some people are against it as it basically behaves as non-independent suspension. for better ride quality on bumpy road surfaces, spherical is better as it allows for more independent suspension travel. however, if you want more oversteer and don't care much about ride quality, polyurethane is better.

these endlinks are a cheap upgrade for oversteer. since our cars are fwd and have a light rear-end, i actually preferred the oversteer. i also didn't care so much about ride quality since i was already on stiffened lowering springs and also coilovers at one point in time. ideally, you want to start off with an aftermarket sway bar first, see if that suits your needs. if there's still too much sway, then consider getting polyurethane end links, or increasing the stiffness in your dampers (if you have coilovers) and/or switch to stiffer springs.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:42 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

ya here a few vids and I don't see the end link moving much at all. i just can't find the other video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1o-TvZQdek