Blown 7A redemption, attemp #2 Options

[Cevax]

Haven't been here in a couple of years but some of you will remember by 7afte turbo project that was a complete failure. Swapped in a 7a and started the the turbo project and blew up in the highway a few days later.

On my first project I didn't do any of the work outside from some wiring. This time this is a true backyard build anyway my goal is 450 on race gas 380+ on pump. 7.4:1 compression with 25 pounds of boost

Anyway I wont update this a lot since its on other forums

Engine is Fully built, only stock part is the throttle body, wont go into details because non of you really care

Car does no run yet
Stuff missing

New exhaust manifold
Standalone EMS
New FMIC
















VIDEOS

Its loud in there especially when the fuel pump is on





This post has been edited by Cevax: Jun 23, 2010 - 9:59 PM

[Nartanian]

IS that a D series Honda engine is see in there?

[Cevax]

yes its a d,

[Nartanian]

I'm actually curious to know why you used the stock throttle body. What size turbo you plan to run? It'd be nice if you could keep the 6g community updated...

This post has been edited by Nartanian: Jun 23, 2010 - 11:14 PM

[Cevax]

The bigger throttle body wouldnt fit unless I grind down my intake manifold. Its not a stock manifold and I guess it doesnt support that tb. I am not going to bring a grinder to the manifold, so just put the stock back on until I can bring myself to spend the money, on a proper one. Its alot smaller but hopefully it doesnt hinder performance that much.

Been working on the motor for six months now, have changed my mind on things many times. Right now have a slightly modyfied td05h big16g, its ported so flows around 575-600 cfm. Currently mated to an older oem manifold from a different car until the new one arrives.

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jun 24, 2010 - 8:33 AM

[Cevax]

Video below


Hopefully everything goes well and can get this running soon

This post has been edited by Cevax: Jul 23, 2010 - 10:38 AM

[mak5603]

nice build, looks real good, just one question. Why D series instead of a B series?

[HectortheRican]

Maybe this'll give you inspiration
D16Z6 making 700+whp
http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredv...agon/index.html

[95CelicaST]

D series are cheap and pretty stout.


While it isn't running, now would be a good time to shave and tuck the engine bay.

[Cevax]

@95celicast

The only problem is that I have never seen the "cheap" everybody talks about. This motor has cost me a lot more than I though it would. Why no B series, not sure, I never considered it an option while I was deciding what to do to it. Probably because around here if its a honda it has a Bseries, I hear people saying LS, LS, LS in my damn sleep.

On the tuck, well not worried about that right now.


Here is a before and after




This post has been edited by Cevax: Jul 23, 2010 - 3:25 PM

[richee3]

I've got a friend with a 95 Civic hatch who got 2 different D16B's for $600 apiece. That car is pretty quick, even if the owner is a moron. Can't wait to see the numbers that your car will put down.

[mak5603]

I was just wondering your reasons. I know how it is to hear LS, LS, LS V, GSR!!!!1! all day haha, I've got a lot of Honda friends.

This post has been edited by mak5603: Jul 24, 2010 - 4:22 PM

[HectortheRican]

Just do the K20 swap. Pwn everyone. There was a K20 EG hatch for sale where I live and holy crap was it fast. Sexy too, the guy did an excellent job, no hint of rice

[mak5603]

Just do the K20 swap. Pwn everyone. There was a K20 EG hatch for sale where I live and holy crap was it fast. Sexy too, the guy did an excellent job, no hint of rice

My friend just built a K20 CRX...Enough said, that thing IS REDICULOUSLY GNARLY, Six speed gearbox, Custom Ksports, and like $10k on the engine, but he runs 11s 1/4 miles NA

This post has been edited by mak5603: Jul 26, 2010 - 1:37 PM

[HectortheRican]

My friend just built a K20 CRX...Enough said, that thing IS REDICULOUSLY GNARLY, Six speed gearbox, Custom Ksports, and like $10k on the engine, but he runs 11s 1/4 miles NA

That's crazy!! Sorry to go off topic here, but in Puerto Rico (where I'm from.. hence HectortheRican lol) I was at the drag strip and they are CRAZY down there. Crazy swaps all the time. I saw a '73 Corolla there, normally has a crappy little 0.8L motor.. completely gutted interior, light as a mouse (I think they said curb weight at 1,500-1,600lb) and the dropped in a TT 13B Wankel from a '98 RX-7 making 550whp. That thing was doing low 9 second pulls and dipping into high 8's.

[JuMPiiN]

If your talking about that EG for sale in Dallas that's my buddy Angelo's. That think its a beast it was tuned by Tony at T1 in Dallas. He has over 20K in that car, and it is super quick. He also has a NSX, and another fully built boosted EK hatch with a K20 as well.

[HectortheRican]

If your talking about that EG for sale in Dallas that's my buddy Angelo's. That think its a beast it was tuned by Tony at T1 in Dallas. He has over 20K in that car, and it is super quick. He also has a NSX, and another fully built boosted EK hatch with a K20 as well.

This one?

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1837163345.html

This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Jul 26, 2010 - 2:51 PM

[JuMPiiN]

Yep he has that one and a white EK. The rims on the red one alone were almost 3K.

[HectortheRican]

Yep he has that one and a white EK. The rims on the red one alone were almost 3K.

Jesus, I envy him. That is a sweet, sweet EG. The reason I really appreciate super nice, clean EG's and EK's is cause they're really a diamond in the rough amidst all the riced out ones.

[Cevax]

But I don't like K20's ..... nah seriously not a fan of it

Anyway if all goes well big things coming the next 2 weeks, I will post progress here

[stephen_lee]

yay!

[Cevax]

Hmm figure I update this. Ok so yesterday I began to try and figure out why my car smokes like a train after it runs for a few minutes. I know since the motor has seen no mileage the rings aren't seated but damn, its a lot of smoke. Pulled the turbo and all behold the charge pipes are full of oil, my exhaust has oil seeping right through it. That explains some of the smoke, now my turbo has no mileage but I did start the car with it installed a few times and oil pressure is well over 100 psi at 3500 rpm. Pretty sure that killed it, anyway added a few restrictors and began to rethink my return since my scavenge pump should handle that oil pressure no problem. So something is wrong.

Anyway instead of trying to eliminate things I dumped my whole return setup, do it again and if it still smokes try to rebuild the turbo before Thursday before my dyno appointment. First thing was getting rid of those dumb, overpriced bull**** npt fittings and braided hoses. Took of the bung on the oil pan and added a barb fitting. Then it was the difficult task of relocating the scavenge pump. Now this was a problem, I have very little space on my engine bay and the pump is big and heavy, it cant be to far from the turbo otherwise it wont prime well. While I was trying to figure that out I had to take my intercooler off.... for the 1000th time so I put the pump on the back burner and try to mount the damn cooler permanently. The cooler wasn't going on, so I decided to pick up a crash bar which unbeknown to me, would be a 5 hour ordeal. Called around and nobody had it, so decided to go to a junkyard where they wanted 75 dollars for it. Then it was 40 if I pull it, but I couldn't pull it because the bolts are rusted, they have to be cut. Then after all that bull**** they said its too much work for 40 dollars, so I guess they wanted more money. I called one of the places I called earlier in the day, worded my question differently and 3 hours stuck in Boston traffic and 18 dollars later I had the crash bar. So 40-75 at the junkyard and 18 dollars brand new at a parts store... yea how the hell does that work. Anyway, I put the bar on and the cooler now goes how it is supposed to. The good things is that the crash bar gives me a new place where I can put the pump. It sits level right at the turbo, it only has to go up a little bit to go back up to the oil pan, which should make things a lot better. Now I took these pics with a damn cellphone but I will take slr ones tomorrow maybe. Wanted to drive it today but hopefully I can finish this up tommorow

[HeavyD]

well hopefully its just the turbo seal popping out or something, but once i get my license back we gotta see how the supra runs against the d-series, every one says my car is fast but to me its not

[Cevax]

well hopefully its just the turbo seal popping out or something, but once i get my license back we gotta see how the supra runs against the d-series, every one says my car is fast but to me its not

Sure y not, Only thing is that obviously your drivetrain is better than mine, your huge gears and higher top speed will "eventually" catch up to me

[mak5603]

What tranny you using?

[Cevax]

Stock civic VX transmission. The cheapest trans honda has but best for turbo due to the longer gears.

Brought it to the dyno but my turbo blew up, follow the pics and you should figure out what going on. I will do a write up later once I get more done









Turbo exploded



Time to rebuild








Assembly






Balancing





Finished






Some more wrench time and back to dyno to try again

This post has been edited by Cevax: Aug 14, 2010 - 7:02 PM

[Cevax]

Well when i put the turbo back on the car stop smoking, but it was just because the oil started collecting in the exhaust housing and wasn’t burning right away. The turbo still leaked,, The thing with Chinese turbos are the bearings, seals are extremely low quality. The turbines and compressors are fine since they are just backward engineered from real turbos. A turbonetic turbo will survive up to 85psi of oil pressure and a stock dsm turbo will run for quite a bit with a blocked off return. A Chinese replica is recommended 7-15 psi of oil pressure, which alone says a lot about quality. So they just have no room for error, if somebody is going to use one, the setup must be done perfectly since those turbo wont survive much.

Anyway, scraped my turbo setup, bought a new manifold that’s in the way and going to match it with a tial. Bought these snails and just have to decide what to run. They are both a bit big and will slow down my spool, but I can push my motor past 500 horses either one of these.

[Nartanian]

Good info and write up. What turbos are those?

[Cevax]

Good info and write up. What turbos are those?

The turbonetic is a t3/t04e while the garrett is a 57trim m24. They are both in good shape and trying to decide which to go with. One is going to be a backup that way I aint off the road if something happens.

[Nartanian]

Well I think Garrett says the 57 trim m24 flows 53 lbs/min. Couldn't find anything charts on the turbonetics though. Are they both ball bearing?

This post has been edited by Nartanian: Sep 6, 2010 - 5:11 PM

[Cevax]

Well I think Garrett says the 57 trim m24 flows 53 lbs/min and the turbonetics flows. Couldn't find anything charts on the turbonetics though. Are they both ball bearing?

I don't think the turbonetics is ball bearing so its probably at to4b, not sure what it flows. I haven't pulled any of them apart to check the bearing but I would be surprised if the Garrett isn't ball bearing.

Garrett is ~678 cfm
Turbonetic is ~550-678 cfm NOT SURE
Thing is the turbonetic will spool faster

This post has been edited by Cevax: Sep 4, 2010 - 9:00 PM

[Nartanian]

I'd just go with the Garrett then. Might as well start the fun early. It'd be nice to see dyno graphs on it too. Although I hear garrets are really sensitive when it comes to oil pressure or else they blow.

This post has been edited by Nartanian: Sep 6, 2010 - 5:14 PM

[Cevax]

I am STILL at it, Just dealing with some personal problems but not giving up yet.

\\

[Cevax]

many things have happend, follow the pics to get an idea.









Got a 70mm TB








THEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!












So here is a Video below of it all back together again



This post has been edited by Cevax: Oct 18, 2010 - 7:04 PM

[Cevax]

2 Years later





I have changed everything from the date this post was made, it was bored out, bigger pistons etc etc
Also did the entire fuel delivery and air delivery over again. Bigger turbo etc you name it, it was done over again

Its at 10psi in first gear, 18 in second, 26 on 3rd and 4th and down to 18 in 5th.
I have no power numbers, I tuned it myself and I don't race it so no track numbers.

No ebay or chinese parts, everything is now brand name (and I went out of my way to make sure each part is not built in china), and each dug a small hole in my wallet

Seriously though the only Chinese thing left is the radiator hoses, will order some saamco ones when I get the chance. The radiator is staying because it actually works better than the mishimoto one

This post has been edited by Cevax: Oct 11, 2012 - 9:04 AM

[Bigblock]

Sounds like a fun drive!!

[kurt95gt]

No air filter?

[Cevax]

No air filter?

Not at the moment until I can get some bends to be able to fit one on.

[kurt95gt]

Ahh ok.
Good build BTW.
Kinda makes me miss working on hondas. But my v6 celi keeps me busy

[Special_Edy]

Darn backwards engines...

[Zake]

Darn backwards engines...

feller, I think i found your problem, your engine is in here sideways!

[Special_Edy]

Darn backwards engines...

feller, I think i found your problem, your engine is in here sideways!

And half the cylinders are missing to boot! Looks like an entire cylinder bank just fell off the block. Boy howdy!

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Oct 12, 2012 - 10:20 AM

[SwissFerdi]

Darn backwards engines...

feller, I think i found your problem, your engine is in here sideways!

And half the cylinders are missing to boot! Looks like an entire cylinder bank just fell off the block. Boy howdy!

You guys win 6gc for today.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Oct 12, 2012 - 2:14 PM

[RabidTRD]

Darn backwards engines...

Not really... try looking at some VW engines lol. Just means they torque steer the opposite way of a Celica

[Cevax]

This is my toy I have a daily driver but I was going to take it out today, but its 40-45 degrees outside so before I turned it on I checked the oil. I has straight 40 since I don't like multi weight oils. I need to keep it around 20psi idle and I find that when I am pushing it most multiweight breakdown really fast on hot weather(all those additives to make it a multi weight). I am not paying 10 dollars a quart for oil good multiweight, Especially when a good synthetic race oil at straight 40 cost 4.50 a quart.

In cold weather have to switch to a multiweight but since the weather is colder, it takes a lot to get to 220 degress. That is the engine temperature that I see oil pressure dropping a lot on the many oils I have tried.

But anyway checked the oil and its way too thick, not going to drive it until i change it to a multi and prime the engine and turbo since it looks like we are going straight to winter this year.