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> So I Hit Another Car
post Nov 16, 2010 - 10:28 PM
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brk34

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I rear ended another car and the air bags deployed. No injuries but the car is fairly banged up. I now need to replace all the glass and the airbags. I only want the car to be safely drivable. Cosmetic issues are not so important.


I need to repair or replace some other items. The hood was damaged and also was what I believe is, the upper radiator mount.

How much would purchasing these be. I most likely will replace the hood and the mount my self or have them reshaped if its inexpensive.

The bumper looks fine with no damage to the important underlying structure. It look ugly but functional.

I also need a high beam on the driver's side. The reflector is damaged and I think replacement is the best option. Would it be easy to replace myself.

As for getting the parts (if I decide to replace them) should I attempt to buy from a local individual or look in a junk yard. I'm located on long island New York.

Are there any issues I should look for? There are no fluid leaks, suspension or tire damage.
Pictures







post Nov 17, 2010 - 11:58 AM
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jcbass7



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I'm located just across the ferry in New London CT. I have most of those parts you need (hood, headlights, airbags and sensors etc) If you want to fix it yourself, lemme know and we can work something out. If the suspension and the radiator supports/ frame structure upfront are still in good condition, than it shouldn't be tough to fix at all.

PM me if you want to talk more about it.
post Nov 17, 2010 - 12:23 PM
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Bigblock

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Good to know you're ok!! Hope you can save her!!
post Nov 17, 2010 - 12:29 PM
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Same thing happened to me my man! Hope you're alright though!
It's an easy fix, not nearly as bad as mine, check out my thread!
post Nov 17, 2010 - 1:54 PM
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czwalga

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I'll sell you the airbags if you want to replace them.


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-93 Rx7, Turbo 6.1L v8, 725rwhp/760rwtq
-95 Celica GT Rally Car - 3sge/AWD
-10 F150

Always buying stock wheels... PM me if interested in selling.
post Nov 18, 2010 - 12:03 AM
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brk34

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Thanks I'll keep all your tips in mind. Is it safe to use junk yard airbags and associated parts or do I need new ones?
post Nov 22, 2010 - 12:08 PM
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mkernz22



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junkyards usually rip them out right off the bat, well at least all the ones I went to they were missing.
They'll probably charge more for them as for what you would pay on heree
post Nov 22, 2010 - 11:06 PM
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brk34

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Ok I'll keep the idea of buying them from a member in mind. I plan on taking off the front bumper tomorrow and looking at the damage.
post Nov 23, 2010 - 4:30 PM
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cjh4l22

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i have the 2 upper supports if you need them. one for the hood and one for the radiator. both brand new


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proud =3sgte SWAPPED= '95 Celica ST owner [calling it the GT2 or half-trac]
309,000 miles n' .... dead-> ALIVE AGAIN!! ~14,000 miles driven
post Nov 23, 2010 - 7:57 PM
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brk34

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I'll keep that in mind.
Does anyone know if airbags from any year can be used? Do I need to make sure the parts are from an obd II car?
post Nov 26, 2010 - 4:18 PM
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brk34

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Update. I got the bumper off and look like I need the crash bar as well.
post Nov 26, 2010 - 4:32 PM
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get the airbags from a reputable member here. Junkyard, will they work the next time? god forbid, im not wishing you any bad luck, but do you want to risk it?

as for the other parts, everybodys got headlights to sell here, and bumpers and hoods, find someone close to you, or those are things junkyards are for.


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post Nov 26, 2010 - 11:40 PM
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bccentaur3



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I have all the parts needed for your car. Have both air bags and crash bar and pre-face bumper. Hood too. They are all removed from the car and ready for shipping if needed.


--------------------
98 Celica gt red- totaled deer
94 Celica st black DD (bad weather beater)- totaled deer
95 Celica gt silver- chassis sold
88 Celica All-Trac (Burned to a crisp)
94 Celica gt white (sold)

In need of a rust free chassis!!!!
post Nov 28, 2010 - 5:44 PM
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brk34

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I managed to remove the bumper and such. I have a question though how do I remove the highlighted bolts? The factory manual states that these bolts need to be removed in-order to remove the airbag sensors. When I attempt to rotate the bolt the stud also turns.
post Nov 28, 2010 - 8:03 PM
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Spider77



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Not that Ive had to remove anything from around there, but usually if you try to loosen a nut, and the shaft rotates, that means its a bolt/nut combo. My guess, you might be able to get something up in there to hold the head of the bolt (offset box end wrench), or remove the condenser?
post Nov 28, 2010 - 8:21 PM
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brk34

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I forgot to mention this but the other side is a flat metal disk (going by feel). I attempted to grab the edge using long nose plies without success. Though grabbing it might be possible if the bar wasn't so distorted. I think removing the condenser is out of my skill level. I'm working in a driveway.
post Nov 28, 2010 - 11:13 PM
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richee3



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I'm personally a fan of a grinder and new nuts and bolts. Since that isn't a viable option, maybe try a pair of vice grips to clamp the back of the bolt while you try to loosen the nut.


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2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.
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post Nov 30, 2010 - 9:55 PM
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SleekCelica

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I'm with Richee on this one- that would cost you very little vs time spent trying to get them out without doing that.


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Front strut brace, cherrybomb glasspack, intake.
post Nov 30, 2010 - 10:59 PM
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brk34

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I didn't want to drag power tools outside in the winter but I will probably be forced to use a dermal or some such.
post Nov 30, 2010 - 11:13 PM
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oh...
those nuts...
yeahh, they just freely spin if you try to loosen them...
there's no bolt, it circular shaped piece of metal on the back and I couldn't get them off after my accident either...

I'll stop doing the dot dot dot's, but there is no need to get those off unless you are taking your a/c condenser out.
Is yours broken?

And to be honest, I couldn't get it out of either of the cars I have had.
Boots+Kicking=Job Done.

I just don't have AC anymore lol laugh.gif

This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 30, 2010 - 11:18 PM
post Dec 7, 2010 - 1:26 AM
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brk34

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Update the airbags and center sensor came. Glass guy is coming next Thursday. I may take some pictures but it's way to cold to work outside and I have finals.
post Dec 28, 2010 - 8:38 PM
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brk34

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Ok so far I am sourcing the bolts that I striped when removing the sensors. The car is burred in snow so I'm waiting until the snow melts before starting on removing the center sensor and other interior stuff. I will take some more pictures.
I have one question though, are the bolts for the airbag on the drivers side t-40?
post Dec 30, 2010 - 8:39 PM
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Zake



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a little off topic, kinda, but... i love your thread title. hope to see her up and rolling again soon.


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post Dec 31, 2010 - 2:20 PM
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brk34

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It was very warm today so here are some pictures. I'm Still working on taking apart the interior and I stopped because I need a steering wheel puller. I'm thinking of using autozone's loan-a-tool program since I only need the puller once. How should i get the steering wheel nut loose it seems to be stuck on quite good?

New glass is in.

Inside of the dash. There were strange splices on the alarm wiring.

I took apart some of the center dash area.

And I got the driver side airbag out.
post Dec 31, 2010 - 4:34 PM
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bccentaur3



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Breaker bar my friend.


--------------------
98 Celica gt red- totaled deer
94 Celica st black DD (bad weather beater)- totaled deer
95 Celica gt silver- chassis sold
88 Celica All-Trac (Burned to a crisp)
94 Celica gt white (sold)

In need of a rust free chassis!!!!
post Dec 31, 2010 - 4:39 PM
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brk34

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Sounds good I will borrow a large one and give it a shot.
post Jan 3, 2011 - 7:49 PM
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brk34

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I have another question. How do I remove the A/C control module? I'm not sure how to remove the control cables I did get the steering wheel bolt loose and will soon remove the wheel.

This post has been edited by brk34: Jan 3, 2011 - 7:50 PM
post Jan 4, 2011 - 1:00 AM
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bccentaur3



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Theres a cable on the firewall where the heater control valve is. Just unhook from HCV and pull out the climate control unit.


--------------------
98 Celica gt red- totaled deer
94 Celica st black DD (bad weather beater)- totaled deer
95 Celica gt silver- chassis sold
88 Celica All-Trac (Burned to a crisp)
94 Celica gt white (sold)

In need of a rust free chassis!!!!
post Jan 4, 2011 - 5:44 PM
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brk34

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That worked great Thanks a lot. Can I use the 94 clock spring on my 97? The clock spring came with the airbags. It looks like no since the 94 has a lead on both end and the 97 has a lead on only the end that connects to the air bag.
post Jan 16, 2011 - 5:12 PM
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brk34

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I'm putting the passenger airbag in and I noticed that the clips are damaged. This picture shows what I'm talking about. What should I do?
post Mar 12, 2011 - 7:28 PM
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brk34

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Weather was great today. I managed to get all of the HVAC ducts and the wiring loom is attached. I will have some pictures soon. I think the next step is to bolt the dash down and install the gauge cluster.
post Mar 13, 2011 - 6:08 PM
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Got the car back together enough to get it started. Couldn't get it started until I connected the alarm. Now I need to buy a hood and I will have all of the parts.
post Apr 2, 2011 - 2:47 PM
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Bending the sheet metal back and hopefully pictures soon.
post Apr 2, 2011 - 7:05 PM
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thumbsup.gif


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'97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
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post May 1, 2011 - 9:23 PM
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brk34

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Got the air bag system back together. But the light came on. Code 54. I'm following the test procedure to short the connectors and clear the code etc. However it seem like I haven't cleared the code yet. I'm having trouble with the shoring of the connector under the hood. Also I think that I need to short the airbag harness connectors with thinner pieces of wire.
post May 24, 2011 - 3:17 PM
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brk34

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Ok now that school is over I'm working on it again. No luck with resetting the code I'm beginning to suspect that the center sensor is bad. Does anyone have tips on getting the codes to clear?

This post has been edited by brk34: May 24, 2011 - 3:25 PM
post May 25, 2011 - 3:32 PM
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mkernz22



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you need to replace the airbag ECU after you get into an accident. or you could just clear it by unplugging it lol

This post has been edited by mkernz22: May 25, 2011 - 3:32 PM
post May 25, 2011 - 10:34 PM
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brk34

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I did replace it but for some reason it has a code. Maybe I'm not following the clearing procedure correctly.
post May 28, 2011 - 8:41 PM
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brk34

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I got the codes cleared and it's picture time. But now the darned thing won't shift out of park unless I use the override.




post Jun 3, 2011 - 7:09 PM
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brk34

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I found the disconnected connector it was the grey one behind on the ignition switch. However now it won't start. It cranks but i can't hear the fuel pump running. I plan to look at the fuses and relays. Is there a similar relay that I can swap?
post Jun 5, 2011 - 7:37 PM
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brk34

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Project is moving along and I plan to look locally for a hood. Waiting for the epoxy that I used to fix a crack to cure.
post Jun 7, 2011 - 8:50 PM
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brk34

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Epoxy cured fine and I found a hood in a local junk yard. Problem is they don't ship. My options are 1) see if it will fit in my moms station wagon (or on it's roof) 2) rent a truck from home depot for ~$30. Any other ideas?
post Jun 10, 2011 - 9:30 PM
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brk34

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Guess no on the ideas. Found why the car wouldn't start reliably or shift out of park. When it stopped running while idling in my driveway I checked the wring and found a lose plug that I somehow missed despite checking several times.
post Jun 14, 2011 - 11:19 PM
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lilgreenyoda

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QUOTE (brk34 @ Jun 11, 2011 - 2:30 AM) *
Guess no on the ideas.


Out my way, we make friends with someone that has a truck and ask to borrow it and/or make an outing out of the deal...
post Aug 24, 2011 - 5:55 PM
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brk34

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Update
Got done with summer classes and drove to the junk yard and had them deliver the hood. Only $75 with free delivery. Worked out great just have to install the hood. Should be close to getting it on the road. Bumper and interior and it should be good.
post Aug 27, 2011 - 1:52 AM
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You've done some good work. I had to do something VERY similar haha. I found an entire other car for really cheap that had all of my parts. I got one of the A/C condensor bolts loose somehow, the other met a cut off wheel on my grinder lol. But here's my question for you, what did you do to get your airbag code to clear? I never did worry about clearing my codes as I was more concerned with getting it on the road. Should just be a computer reset through the diagnostic port right? I mean, I changed all parts with undamaged components... still screwed. so I am curious. But pm if you have any other questions about putting the front end back together and getting her back on the road. Congrats!


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post Aug 27, 2011 - 11:20 AM
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brk34

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You connect certain pins in the diagnostic port to ground in a specific manner. You also short two pins iirc. Find a copy of the factory manual and you're all set.
post Aug 27, 2011 - 11:39 AM
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ricochet1490



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QUOTE (brk34 @ Aug 27, 2011 - 11:20 AM) *
You connect certain pins in the diagnostic port to ground in a specific manner. You also short two pins iirc. Find a copy of the factory manual and you're all set.

I just wanted to make sure that was how to do it. The Celicatech has an online BGB and that's what it said to do, just making sure we were on the same page smile.gif


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post Aug 29, 2011 - 3:35 PM
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brk34

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Managed to get the hood installed and roughly centered. I will have to clean off the junkyard markings. I will upload pictures when I can.
post Aug 29, 2011 - 6:44 PM
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brk34

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Having problems getting the hood lock back in place any tips or pictures of an installation? For some reason it won't lock onto the hood.
post Aug 29, 2011 - 7:27 PM
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ricochet1490



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it's sitting too low. After i hit my deer, mine was. you have to do one of two things. Either A, find a way to pull the core support up(which means possibly damaging stuff tucked underneath of the lip, wiring etc. or B, what I did, take a side grinder with a cut off wheel, or if you have a plasma cutter or acetylene torch those will also work and my be required.... you need to modify the latch by cutting the holes out to be slots that run downward so you can slide the whole assembly up (some of the sheet metal shielding will need cut as well). That's what I did to get it to close because none of my stuff was busted, rad, condenser etc. and I didn't want to take it out. your latch bolts are flanged, so its no prob as long as you're within about 3/4 of an inch or so, you just need to tighten them down really good. Hope that helps... thats what my issue was anyway Especially if you know that your latch is otherwise functioning properly

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Aug 29, 2011 - 7:29 PM


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post Aug 29, 2011 - 7:37 PM
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ricochet1490



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just looking at your pictures though, they're small, but it looks like your core support went up?! I would check to make sure your latch isn't locked over as if it were "shut"... that is if you can eliminate height of your latch being an issue. When I replaced my hood I literally bolted it on as it can only go in one place, slid it toward the windshield as far as I could and tightened it down, and it nearly latched perfect with the exception of it being too low...gaping and everything was perfect.... good luck


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post Aug 30, 2011 - 3:06 PM
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brk34

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I will check the height of the latch and the position (lock/unlock). I need to upload new pictures since I came up with a way to bend up the core support w/o damage to the wiring bundle.
post Sep 1, 2011 - 6:55 PM
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brk34

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The new hood has a fiberglass? insulater on the underside is this normal? The hood is from a GT, was this a difference between the GT and the ST models?
post Sep 1, 2011 - 11:15 PM
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ricochet1490



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totally normal. That "insulator" is a fire smother. ON the off chance that your motor catches on fire, that melts down around the engine to keep it from spreading and flaming up. It smothers it out. At least that's how I understand it


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post Sep 11, 2011 - 4:56 PM
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brk34

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I managed to get the hood to latch. I removed the wiring harness from underneath and then using a c-clamp, chain and a big piece of wood moved it forward. To push it up I used a long piece of wood and a jack.
post Sep 11, 2011 - 5:07 PM
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ricochet1490



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congrats!


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post Sep 17, 2011 - 2:11 PM
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brk34

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Started putting back the headlight. Noticed I need to bend back the piece that the bottom of the high beam bolts to. The part is named REINFORCEMENT SUB-ASSY, FRONT FENDER, TOP LH 53808‑20010. Looks cheaper to fix it just need to bend it and try to fit it.
post Dec 19, 2011 - 3:00 PM
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brk34

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Back again. Finals are just about done so I'm going to start working on it again. Sunroof is still leaking and it looks like I need to caulk it again.Also some part fell off. Looks like an exhaust hanger. I'll have a picture up soon.

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