Gutted 6G hatch that could trap 150mph in the 1/4 which brake kit? Options

[eazy2001x]

as the title states...

I’m looking form something good enough for drag that would be able to stop a 800whp 94-99 body. I am looking into the Ksport front and rears and would like to use 16-17inch rims, however i need to know if there will be enough stopping power and has anyone incorporated a way to get the e-brake to work.

my options for 16 inch rims are the 11 or 12 inch kit. if i wanted to go to 15 inch rims i would have to use the 11 inch kit. But I dont know what the stock sized rotors are and if i can get away with the 11 inch kit and run 16 inch rims and there be enough stopping power i would go for it.

so my questions are:

which of the two kits would be enough to stop my car?
what are the dimensions of the stock rotors?

Thanks,
Eazy

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Nov 18, 2010 - 2:05 PM

[azian_advanced]

how fast will you be going before applying the brakes? and how much braking distance you're provided with?
obviously both brakes will stop the car eventually, but the question is how hard and how fast do you want to decelerate?

i don't have the answers to your questions but those are some things to take note of.

stock rotor dimensions

[mkernz22]

You could do the Supra caliper setup for the brakes and I believe someone on here did a Porsche caliper setup as well.

[eazy2001x]

You could do the Supra caliper setup for the brakes and I believe someone on here did a Porsche caliper setup as well.

do you have a link to what was done?

and im looking to drag in the 1/4 mile.. with that WHP i figure somewhere between 130-150mph and stopping time.. not quite sure how much track is left after the 1/4 mark on the track before you hit the sand pit. but if the supra upgrade will work it will cost me much less and i would be interested. but i think im 5X100 and the supra stuff is 5x114.3

[eazy2001x]

how fast will you be going before applying the brakes? and how much braking distance you're provided with?
obviously both brakes will stop the car eventually, but the question is how hard and how fast do you want to decelerate?

i don't have the answers to your questions but those are some things to take note of.

stock rotor dimensions

and it looks like stock is aprox 10 inchs.. hmm.. i think the 12 would be better and just deal with the 16inch rims.

[95CelicaST]

Calipers don't have a lug pattern.

If I may ask... because I know I'm not the only one tickled by this thread...

What specific modifications are you planning on doing to obtain 800 whp? What is your expected budget? Why would you put cheap ksport suspension on such a vehicle? What wheels are you going to use? Something 11" wide up front? LSD? Most people with 800 whp and the associated investment typically utilize a parachute setup to handle the brunt of the braking. Which chute setup were you thinking of?

[eazy2001x]

Calipers don't have a lug pattern.

If I may ask... because I know I'm not the only one tickled by this thread...

What specific modifications are you planning on doing to obtain 800 whp? What is your expected budget? Why would you put cheap ksport suspension on such a vehicle? What wheels are you going to use? Something 11" wide up front? LSD? Most people with 800 whp and the associated investment typically utilize a parachute setup to handle the brunt of the braking. Which chute setup were you thinking of?

i am new to the celica world.. i have ben into the MR2 world for the last 6 years or so and i would like to keep this subject about the Brakes.. If Ksport is no good.. please suggest something else that other Celica owners have used on the 94-99 GT Thanks. my thought process is that if he used the rotor and calipers from the super that they would not match up because the rotor on the supra has a different pattern than the celicas which is why I mentioned it.

[95CelicaST]

You aren't using a Supra rotor, just the caliper. If you're going to sink that much money into a car, I would hope for maybe Tein or Cisco or JIC coilovers... SOMETHING that doesn't just cost $800 and lets you slam it.


Wilwood kit all around, to answer your specific theoretical question.


Parachute is the best bet, to give a realistic answer.

But if you could enlighten us by answering my questions I'm sure everyone reading would greatly appreciate it... even if it is off-topic to the thread.

[eazy2001x]

i am going to run the tein flex which is what i have on my MR2 and love it. I am sorry.. I will post information about the build at some other time with another topic. I am not looking to do that nor or kill this topic. I am not looking to prove anything to anyone or anything, just want info on stopping power right now and will deal with other things at some other point in time if thats ok with you. also would you happen to have part numbers for any of the items you listed?

[eazy2001x]

seems that the Wilwood 13" 4 piston would be perfect for 17 inch rims but i would love to run smaller ones than that. unless i can find some light weight 17 inch rims like the 17" ENKEI RPF1 for a good cost in white. the other issue is if they work with the e-brake.

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Nov 18, 2010 - 1:21 PM

[njccmd2002]

[eazy2001x]

come on guys.. help point me in the right direction.. the wilwood site sucks.. and i need to know about thr rears and ebrake..

[Culpable04]

for rears use ST205 rear brake systen, it uses the same caliper as the toyota surpa, but with a bracekt designed for the celica, you'll need to fabricate 5 mm spacers for the caliper / knuncle area to make the caliper aligned with the disc, and it will require no modification for the ebrake to work.

as for the front, you are pretty much asking for a ice cubes to ffed a torch, you can't have big brakes and want 15 inch wheels, is one or the other, the smallest you can go as far as wheels is 16 paired with 11.8 inches disc and ST205 front calipers, and that's cutting it close as that's what I was running for a while. to give you an example about how tight fit it is, I had to pay extra when balancing my wheels so the guy would measure where he can put the weights to avoid contact with the caliper.

so go with some 17 inch wheels, there are plentu light weight ones out there, and as for them being white, you can always buy a 9.99 spray can and make purple wheels look white.

are you a member of mr2oc by any chance ?

[eazy2001x]

yes.. thats me on the Mr2oc.. Eazy2001x :-) and i will deff consider the rear ST205's and go with 17 inch wheels then. for the 17 inch wheels i can go with the Wilwood 13" 4 piston.

Thank you for your reply so do you think i will be find with that setup? and can i just get away with 8mm washers on the rear?

[presure2]

you guys obviously dont know easy...he is well known for some serious work over on mr2oc with the 5sge setup he has been running, you should really take a look at some of his threads over there..interesting stuff.

i agree with culpable...look into the gt-4 stuff..that should do ya fine.

[eazy2001x]

presure2 Thanks man.. and i think ill do what i said in my last post.. Wilwood 13" 4 piston and the ST205 rear.. I know you guys have been begging to hear about this project on the OC for some time now.. I will post info over here as time goes by while im working on things and even start a build thread like my 5Sge thread on the OC when im ready to move on. Thanks for the info guys.. Now its time to find some ST205 rears and some brakes to fit it along with a rebuild kit. or ill just find tem new and get a set of porterfield brakes for the reat ST205's

[eazy2001x]

sorry another question. do i need the ST205 rotor as well or can i just run the stock one?

[Culpable04]

sorry another question. do i need the ST205 rotor as well or can i just run the stock one?

you need ST205 disc and calipers,

since I know the question will come up later

ST205 calieprs use the same brake pads as Supra TT brakes, and same rebuilt kit, so those parts are available within US.

also, wilwood brakes have been known to need weird offset in order to fit behind wheels, so make sure you can source wheels with the needed offset before you buy them.

since you have some fabrication skills, you would wanna take a look at ST205 brakes in the front as well, it's a 4 piston system front 2 piston rear, it wouldn't throw away the bias thus no need for adjustable prportioning valves.

in order to use the fronts there is a little bit more work involve than the rears. but I'd say it doable

[eazy2001x]

also, wilwood brakes have been known to need weird offset in order to fit behind wheels, so make sure you can source wheels with the needed offset before you buy them.

Thanks Culpable for the info.. I dont think i like the stock ST205 fronts and may just do the wilwood fronts and ST205 rears. I will price a set of used calipers and a rebuild kit vs new to see if its worth the rebuild. Ill also have to find out which offset i need to run the wilwood fronts. I really like the 17 Enkei RPF1's even if i have to run a small spacer with extended ARP studs. The rear ST205 rotors i might buy new from toyota unless i can find a set new on ebay that work.

[eazy2001x]

are these good for the rear?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/c-one-slit-rear-br...a-gt-four-60182

[Culpable04]

the picture shows front disc, but yes C-one rear slit ( slotted ) disc would work perfect for it, also grab some race spec pads that can withstand the heat ( EBC red ? )

[eazy2001x]

the picture shows front disc, but yes C-one rear slit ( slotted ) disc would work perfect for it, also grab some race spec pads that can withstand the heat ( EBC red ? )

would you happen to have a pic of the 5mm spacer i need to get it to work?

[Culpable04]

these are not my pictures, these are taken from Lubu's thread

but same thing ST205 rear brake system on a regular celica

you can see he used a few washers until he got the desired thickness





his overall thickness ( of the washers together ) was 5.5 mm


Link to his thread !

in case you want more details on it.

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Nov 19, 2010 - 11:41 AM

[eazy2001x]

Thank you.. you guys are the best and all the post were very informative.. Now its time to buy and build.. Thanks for all the help...

[mkernz22]

are you looking to spend a lot?

there is some good stuff on rpmgarage.com
http://rpmgarage.com/new/detail/?tid=14395

[eazy2001x]

shipping is still going to kill me on thos.. its 150 shipped to my location. Ill figure someting out... The good thing is that i know what i need now..

[Smaay]

well being an avid drag racer. the racetrack MUST have 3 times the runoff as the length of the track, so if its a 1/4 mile then there must be 3/4 mile after the finish line. I have raed several 9 sec Supras that trap 150+ and my 7th gen celica traps in the high 130s so i can tell you the second you pull that parachute, you are gonna stop no problem. I have stock brakes on all my cars. Oh and its also a NHRA rule that if you trap 150 you must have a parachute

[eazy2001x]

i know and have read about the role cage/Para shoot requirements. But those will be the last things to get installed on my car. My first few runs will prob be at ATCO in NJ because i like to race in Englishtown. So if i get kicked off the track at ATCO i wont have problems after i get the shoot installed to race at Englishtown =)

[eazy2001x]

Ok, I have been working with a company that offers a big break upgrade using the Forged Superlite Internal 4 piston calipers for the front and rear. They have designed a kit using 12.8ish/12.3ish front and rear crossed drilled/slotted rotor that will keep the rear drub for the emergence break. They want 1900 for everything. I questioned the integrity of the Forged Superlite Internal 4 piston caliper and they said that it will be more than enough stopping power for my car since I’m only going to be using it for drag. They stated that they use those calipers on cars with weight well over 3k and on road courses with fast breaking for long periods of time and high MPH. I did research on them and it seems that the supra guys se them with no problem and my car will never weigh as much as a supra.

They suggested that for aprox 450 more they can upgrade the calipers to the Billet Superlite 6 Lug Mount. So do you guys think ill need to do the upgrade? And the ones that I am getting are made to be used on 17 inch rims. I have seen MR2’s go into the 9’s on 18 inch rims and drag radials so I don’t think 17’s will be too big.

Forged Superlite Internal

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperLis...?subname=Forged Superlite Internal


Dynapro 6 Piston Lug Mount

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperPro...mno=120-6584-FS

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 7, 2010 - 1:01 PM

[Culpable04]

both kits will do the job for you, so I think is a matter of personal preference at that point.
Personally if I have to choose between those 2 I would pick the cheaper one because it will be more than enough for the job, look just as nice and cost less.

[eazy2001x]

i was thinking the same thing.. I might just go with the 4 piston setup and be done. I was reading more on the supra forums and it seems that the 6 pistons might be a little much for the street although this will end up being a track car.. and wow.. my GT is 2,580 lbs stock.. i thought it was like 2200 for some reason.. I need to work on that.

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 7, 2010 - 2:40 PM

[eazy2001x]

so i got some options.. standard one piece rotors are crossed drilled.. should i leave them like that or do crossed/slotted or slotted only?

[playr158]

i wouldn't touch anything that was drilled and slotted....you'll just crack them.

Solid rotors or slotted rotors.....and if you're going to spend so much money on brakes you might as well do a two piece rotor.

[eazy2001x]

ill just go with slotted and what is the big diff with 2 piece vs 1? do you really feel it would be that much of a diff? from what i understand there will be a little weight savings and they will also run cooler as well and have a slight bit longer pad life because of that. but for dd and track use, do you think ill need them? ill check the price and see what they tell me. i would guess they can only do the front inn 2 piece because of the drum in the rear for the e-brake.

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 9, 2010 - 12:44 AM

[eazy2001x]

oh and i got the answer for 1 vs 2 here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407519

[playr158]

yes advantages are weight and they run cooler, much higher warping resistance.

drag racing = weight is important

sudden high speed braking with large heat generation = cooling + warp resistance is important.

[eazy2001x]

wow.. ok.. for the 4 piston fron/rear/slotted/drum ebrake is 2050. if i wanted to add a 2 pice slotted im looking at an additional 500 for the fronts. hmm..

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 10, 2010 - 2:14 PM

[95CelicaST]

Wait, so now this is a 800whp daily driver/drag/track car?




Popcorn is done. brb.

[Culpable04]

those 500 bucks can lighten up another section of the car other than the front disc.

I looked into 2 piece brake disc, and unless I was getting them from sponsors for free, I would never pay for them.

[eazy2001x]

Wait, so now this is a 800whp daily driver/drag/track car?

Popcorn is done. brb.

Its a car.. it should be drven...

those 500 bucks can lighten up another section of the car other than the front disc.

I looked into 2 piece brake disc, and unless I was getting them from sponsors for free, I would never pay for them.

I’m thinking that.. but less rotational mass = faster.. Maybe I should ask for a weight diff to see if its even worth the 500..

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 10, 2010 - 3:24 PM