B.E.A.M.S., Got myself a christmas present Options

[Dangercart1]

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[richee3]

Nice! Another BEAMS swap. Expected swap date?

[njccmd2002]

nice,,,

wheres the maf and the maf mount. I have one mount if u need it.

Welcome to the club!

[Dangercart1]

Nice! Another BEAMS swap. Expected swap date?

I'm not positive on when, I'm hoping to do it this summer, after I clean it up a bit!

[Dangercart1]

nice,,,

wheres the maf and the maf mount. I have one mount if u need it.

Welcome to the club!

Thanks for the offer, I will most likely need plenty of stuff, I'm also changing from auto to manual so I'm going to need cables, shifters ect.

[Tony-B]

Best of luck with this, you'll love it!

T

[Outsider]

congrats.... can't wait to see another BEAMS on the road.

[Fate]

glad to see you posted finally!

[njccmd2002]

Updates?

[Dangercart1]

Updates?

Not to much yet, I've been slowly working on it, we were recently blanketed with close to 2 ft of snow so I haven't had much time to get out to my shed. I am currently working on removing the wiring harness, and I will have plenty more pictures to come very soon.

[Dangercart1]

For the next one I need some help, the green arrow is pointing to a plug that is supposed to be mounted on top of the that thing that the yellow arrow is pointing at. What is that thing that the yellow arrow is pointing at!? also please don't make fun of the dumb arrows, i was in a rush!

[Rusty]

the yellow arrow is pointing at your 'vvti oil control valve' (you want to be careful with that, thats US $120 right there.)

[Dangercart1]

Ah crap! the plug that the green arrow is pointing at is supposed to go to that but it apparently broke off.

[njccmd2002]

yp the vvti sensor is crap


email aaron at partznet. or cheaptoyotaparts.uk

always ask about that sensor. it breaks easily

[Fate]

bump for updates?

[Dangercart1]

No updates yet, too cold to work, and I can't seem to find the vvti oil sensor anywhere, I called a dealership but they seemed as though they had no idea that the engine even existed. I'm also looking for some other parts, like a good timing belt, a water pump, and I found a part number for an engine gasket kit, but it doesn't apear to exist.

[95CelicaST]

Welcome to owning a beams. Everything is hard to find, and you probably won't find what you need at a US dealership because the motor was never released here.

[njccmd2002]

dude did u contact the guys i told u. also try groupb hes is a 1stgener, well i just pmd him. seriously email cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk

[BonzaiCelica]

water pump is the same as 2nd generation 3sgte engine as well as 3rd gen 3sgte and 3rd gen 3S-GE. Gasket kit your going to completely rebuild the engine. that will cost you around $400. timing belt, you can choose from an oem, hks or toda racing...

do you know the mileage on the engine. Also get the engine compression tested, get the screw in type long threaded compression tester and each cylinder should read at 198.7 psi

do you have the MAF Sensor and intake box??

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Feb 3, 2011 - 4:36 AM

[Dangercart1]

ok, found the parts I need! The guys at cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk were very helpful, however it is going to cost me about $200 so I'm going to get a small list together of parts I need from them and order them all at once. The weather here is finally to become a bit more mild, so hopefully I can get out to the shed soon and begin working on it, as far as the MAF intake box goes, I do not have one, but i will most likely use the cold air intake from my current engine. I'm still trying to work with the wiring harness to, the fuse box seemed to have taken a beating during the shipping process so I'm going to see what I can do about that. all that said I'm happy things are looking up for the time being, thanks for all the help so far!

[BonzaiCelica]

this will work just fine as I am using it for my engine right now!

http://www.amazon.com/Short-Induction-Inta.../dp/B002W5XHI8/

and just get 3 inch piping for any bends that you need. Id say use one 80 degree bend piping that is 3 inch piping so that the intake sits right behind the battery. along with the link i posted and it will idle just fine

[SupraKid]

water pump is the same as 2nd generation 3sgte engine as well as 3rd gen 3sgte and 3rd gen 3S-GE. Gasket kit your going to completely rebuild the engine. that will cost you around $400. timing belt, you can choose from an oem, hks or toda racing...

do you know the mileage on the engine. Also get the engine compression tested, get the screw in type long threaded compression tester and each cylinder should read at 198.7 psi

do you have the MAF Sensor and intake box??

Every compression tester reads differently, the only major thing that matters is consistency between the #s.

[D-Man]

Every compression tester reads differently, the only major thing that matters is consistency between the #s.

uh not really.

A compression tester test the amount of force in a compression stroke. meaning the amount of air "pushed" or "forced" into such a tight space. Same as a boost gauge, Same as a compressor tank gauge, Same as any other kind of compression gauge.

unless you dont know how to properly screw to the right (also known as a clockwise turn) (or moving a handle -> that way), a compression tester should have accurate readings.

* and if all 4 readings are less than a pound, You still got a bad motor.

Geeze Andrew...

[SupraKid]

Some compression tester gauges read differently than others, i used 4 separate testers on my engine last year, every single one read that the cylinders were within 4 psi of eachother, but the testers all had a 5-30 psi difference.

[Dangercart1]

parts orderd, $303 total , can't wait until they arrive though!

[Fate]

bump for update.

[BonzaiCelica]

the 198.7 psi is the standard pressure from the factory. Not some number I made up

[Dangercart1]

after months of waiting the ball finally began to roll, and now after weeks of work, the engine is in and as of last night, it has officially been started with many thanks to my good friend Americo (fate). Now I need the proper shifter cables and to install the axles and it will be on the road.

[richee3]

Nice! Congrats! The first drive is so close. You'll love it.

[Dangercart1]

engine in the car, a few hours before i started it

[Dangercart1]

Little progress made, the axles are on and the car is on the ground, still need gt shifter cables, I also need to figure out where the second fuel line attaches to, but things are on hold for the weekend thanks to Irene.

ordered parts for the exhaust:
muffler: OBX SP Style SP2
Cat: Magnaflow 59556
resonator: Magnaflow 14416

i also ordered the intake that bonzai suggested.

[BonzaiCelica]

Make sure that intake maf adapter is no more than 71mm in diameter on the inside of the piping and itll do just fine.

[Fate]

Pictures and video tonight or tomorrow! Getting it road ready as I type this.

[Fate]

Mini Timeline:













"First pull-out"

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q315/it...ty/920988d6.mp4

[Cuts_the_Pilot]

Haha, no zaust.
Moving under its own power, you have to be happy with that.

This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: Aug 31, 2011 - 2:38 AM

[richee3]

Gotta love the BEAMS with an open header. It's so loud. Congrats!

[Dangercart1]

As was previously posted the car was driven Tuesday, but hasn't move much since, so today being a day off from work and school (this is a rare occurrence) Fate and I finally got a chance to get some work done. The problem with the engine was it was getting no pick up with the air intake attached, the pedal would be on the floor and it wouldn't go anywhere. So first thing we did today was build the intake:


this helped a bit but still not running like it should, so next we tackled the check engine light, four codes came up

21, 24, 31, 78
Referring to the list below we attempted to correct the problems, the oxygen sensor is obvious because I have no exhaust right now, and after resetting the light 78 went away, so the only two i'm concerned about now are 24 and 31, any ideas where i should start? also after resetting the everything the car drives much better, but i still feel it's not its best.

OBD1 Codes
1 Normal Condition.
2 Air Flow Meter signal.
3 Ignition signal.
4 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
5 Oxygen Sensor.
6 RPM signal (Crank Angle Pulse).
7 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
8 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
9 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
10 Starter signal.
11 Switch signal.
11 ECU/ECM.
12 Knock Control Sensor signal.
12 RPM signal.
13 Knock Control CPU (ECM).
13 RPM signal.
14 Turbocharger Pressure.
14 Ignition signal.
15 Ignition signal
21 Oxygen Sensor.
22 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal.
23 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
24 Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
25 Air-Fuel Ratio Lean.
26 Air-Fuel Ratio Rich.
27 Sub Oxygen Sensor signal.
28 No. 2 Oxygen Sensor signal.
31 Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal).
32 Air Flow Meter signal.
34 Turbocharger Pressure signal.
35 Turbocharger Pressure Sensor signal.
35 HAC Sensor signal.
39 VVT-i
41 Throttle Position Sensor signal.
42 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal.
43 Starter signal.
51 Switch signal.
52 Knock Sensor signal.
53 Knock Sensor signal.
54 Inter-cooler ECM signal.
71 EGR System.
72 Fuel Cut Solenoid signal.
78 Fuel Pump Control signal.
81 TCM Communication.
83 TCM Communication.
84 TCM Communication.
85 TCM Communication.

[Batman722]

have you tried cleaning the maf ?

[richee3]

The remaining codes are for the MAF, so let's look closely at that. Did it come with the motor or did you get it somewhere else? Details about the intake? Try checking all the silly common sense stuff like making sure the MAF is plugged in tight and resetting the ECU. Its probably something simple. Is the motor bogging down?

[Dangercart1]

I did clean the MAF before i put it in but it is definitely worth another shot, one sensor came with the engine, the one that sits near the brake fluid resivior, the big one in the middle i ordered from amazon and is from an avolon, which according to other threads is the right one. I will definitely check the stupid stuff it's very likely i'm missing stuff. lol

[BonzaiCelica]

you talking about this one?:

[richee3]

The Avalon uses the same MAF so you should be good there. As sensitive as it is, I would try to stay with a Toyota MAF, but you've already driven the car so that shouldn't be your problem. What do you mean, "built the intake?" I assume you mean you put the pipe and air filter in since that was the first post with the pipe pictured. But you might have actually built one yourself so I'm just checking there. Does the car idle well? Rev in neutral?

[Dangercart1]

yes lol, by built i mean i simply put one tube into another and capped it with a filter, as for idling, sometimes it idles very well, but other time it stalls or shakes violently at idle

[quote name='BonzaiCelica' date='Sep 3, 2011 - 8:39 PM' post='931625']
you talking about this one?

yes, that one, and the big one inside the tube

This post has been edited by Dangercart1: Sep 4, 2011 - 9:48 PM

[BonzaiCelica]

I forgot the name to that blue vacuum sensor. It goes to the charcoal canister I believe. Its not much of an importance at all and will not mess up the ecu if you don't have the on your engine. Guys from the beams forums and on 6gc said that thing isn't very important.

[Dangercart1]

I forgot the name to that blue vacuum sensor. It goes to the charcoal canister I believe. Its not much of an importance at all and will not mess up the ecu if you don't have the on your engine. Guys from the beams forums and on 6gc said that thing isn't very important.

I have it hooked up, but it wasn't set up to the charcoal canister so i did that last night, I also cleaned the air intake and the MAF sensor, the car is still driving weird, it works fine but if the RPMs get to high it bucks like crazy, I don't have a tach right now so I'm not sure what the RPMs are but it happens around 60 in fifth gear, 50 in fourth, 30 in third, and 15 in second, i'm not sure about 1st

[richee3]

60 is around 3K, same as the 5S. I assumed that's what you meant by "built the intake" but I wanted to double check. The blue thing that Bonzai posted is the VSV. As he said, it goes to the charcoal canister and isn't important to us at all. Apparently it makes a difference with a handful of MR2 guys, but not all of them and definitely not us. Does it matter if you're at full throttle or not, or does it just start running weird at a certain RPM, no matter what? Try unplugging the VVT solenoid and going for a drive. The BEAMS guys always like to start with that. It really sounds to me like a MAF issue. Is your check engine light on?

[Dangercart1]

60 is around 3K, same as the 5S. I assumed that's what you meant by "built the intake" but I wanted to double check. The blue thing that Bonzai posted is the VSV. As he said, it goes to the charcoal canister and isn't important to us at all. Apparently it makes a difference with a handful of MR2 guys, but not all of them and definitely not us. Does it matter if you're at full throttle or not, or does it just start running weird at a certain RPM, no matter what? Try unplugging the VVT solenoid and going for a drive. The BEAMS guys always like to start with that. It really sounds to me like a MAF issue. Is your check engine light on?

I can't hit full throttle, at 60 (in fifth gear) the engine just bucks vigorously my thoughts are focused on the 4 engine codes, i also need to reset the ecu again soon to see if i got rid of them but two of them are involving the intake 1 involves the O2 sensor, but again i have no exhaust (hopefully getting that done tomorrow), and the fourth is fuel pump related (i have yet to get a stronger fuel pump) so i'm thinking its the ecu that's throwing off the engine of the lack of fuel, there are a few things i'm going to try, like which way is the MAF supposed to be facing? open end facing toward or away from the filter? Any suggestions are definitely appreciated, thank you all

This post has been edited by Dangercart1: Sep 7, 2011 - 2:28 AM

[BonzaiCelica]

test your fuel pressure directly at the pump with a 12 v battery.

No need to upgrade your fuel pump, the one used on all Naturally Aspirated Celica's from 7afe, 5sfe, 3rd gen 3sge and 3sfe are all the same fuel pump. Just make sure then when you test your fuel pressure, it read 38-44 psi.

[richee3]

Open end of the MAF goes towards the air filter. That could be your issue. Definitely reset the ECU when you change/fix anything.

[Dangercart1]

Open end of the MAF goes towards the air filter. That could be your issue. Definitely reset the ECU when you change/fix anything.

I wish that was my problem, but i've got it facing the right way

[Dangercart1]

so went to get the exhaust done and they said they couldn't fabricate a down pipe, so now I'm on the hunt, would the down pipe from the 1.8 work? I included a link to one of those ebay ones it looks the same, i inquired about measurements but got no response.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CORO...emZ230670304312

[richee3]

It looks similar but I doubt it. The BEAMS uses 2.25" exhaust, and that is only a 2" outlet. It's possible though. There is a BEAMS b pipe on EBay right now- $195 shipped, has the O2 sensor.

This post has been edited by richee3: Sep 9, 2011 - 9:34 PM

[Dangercart1]

It looks similar but I doubt it. The BEAMS uses 2.25" exhaust, and that is only a 2" outlet. It's possible though. There is a BEAMS b pipe on EBay right now- $195 shipped, has the O2 sensor.

ordered the pipe today

[Dangercart1]

The exhaust is finally on and sounds good, unfortunately it's still not running right, and the only thing i can think is the damn maf, is it possible i got a bad sensor? maybe it's the wrong one, i know toyota makes a few different ones with the same size plug. does anybody know the part number?

[richee3]

The MAF is 22204-20010. It's from late 90's Avalons and Camrys with the 1MZ.

http://www.mr2.com/forums/part-numbers/Toy...aster-list.html

This post has been edited by richee3: Mar 3, 2013 - 4:18 PM

[Dangercart1]

The MAF is 22204-20010. It's from late 90's Avalons and Camrys wit the 1MZ.

http://www.mr2.com/forums/part-numbers/Toy...aster-list.html

yep, that's the one i got, I'm going to try and get another, I'm thinking the one i got was bad.

[richee3]

A few questions.

What intake are you using?

Did you reset your ECU to clear the O2 sensor code, and did it clear the code?

You can't hit WOT in any gear, or just 5th? And what do youeans it starts bucking?

It's basically running, correct?

I'm just trying to get a good idea of what your motor is doing.

[Dangercart1]

The top of the intake is the stock rubber elbow, which than goes to a metal tube made for the 97 avalon so i can fit the sensor in it, and the filter came with the tube. Yes i reset the ECU and yes it cleared the o2 sensor. I'm not sure what rpm it is, but no matter what gear I'm in once i hit it the whole car shakes violently. It's like the engine is trying to jump out of the car, and stops accelerating all together. Thanks for the help so far I do appreciate it!

[richee3]

The Avalon and Camry use the same 1MZ engine so the intake should work, theoretically. Can you get a measurement of the inner diameter? There's a slim chance but maybe the Avalon and Camry use different pipes. I'm glad resetting the ECU cleared your O2 sensor code, but I'm assuming the other codes stayed? I'm leaning towards a bad sensor as well, though I would think a bad MAF would be bad across the board. Does the motor rev freely in neutral or does it still jump? It sounds like it might be a mechanical issue if it's jumping that bad. I'm sure you know my BEAMS is acting up as well, and our issues sound similar, apart from the fact that yours sounds much more severe. The help really isn't a problem. Other BEAMS owners have been gracious enough to help me out and it's the least I can do to help you out too.

[Dangercart1]

Sorry for the lack of updates, school and work have been rough this week, also i managed to develop an oil leak out of the valve cover gasket, so i'm stuck doing that this weekend, I'll get that measurement as soon as it stops raining.

[richee3]

Any update?

[Dangercart1]

Finally got a chance to start working on the celica again, I did some tests on the MAF sensor the resistance was fine but i fond no voltage when air was passing through it, so I'm thinking a bad sensor. I measured the intake tube it was almost exactly 3 inches, I also removed the drivers side steering knuckle and dropped it off at a shop to finally get the wheel bearing fixed. Another thing I want to check is the spark plug gaps, anybody know what they should be?

[richee3]

Your intake pipe is slightly large. You need a 71 mm pipe and 3 inches is about 76 mm. I've had 2 intake pipes with a difference of .8 mm and I can feel a definite low end power difference between the two. I would think it will still run though. Spark plug gap should be .44". I've never checked voltage on my MAF, so let me do that and find out what kind of reading I get.

[Dangercart1]

there is no specific level, when you blow into the end of the sensor the voltage should jump from 0 to however hard you blow, mine didn't budge

[Dangercart1]

Been a long time so I figured I would leave an update, the bucking problem was related to the ECU, I managed to find the correct ECU and the engine has been doing great since. Money has been tight with trying to pay for school put I've managed to put some tires and a good portion of the much needed steering/suspension parts on it. Still need the following:

Struts/springs
Throttle thermostat
Lower engine mounts and rear bracket
To locate the power steering leak
and much more.

I'll attempt to get some pictures up tomorrow in the daylight.

[njccmd2002]

good thing...

[Fate]

woohoooooooooo!

[NICOGP]

Mine is doing the exact same thing after swap.
What was your conclusion exact, course I'm about to buy a new MAF.??