WARNING!!! DANGER TO MANIFOLD!!! !@#$, 5-SFE DI Nitrous Build Thread - Dyno Charts Included!!! Options

[94celicadude]

Well after many a nights of being too lazy to post these pictures...I mean too busy to post them *cough* I have finally decided to do this.

This build thread will follow, not quite step by step, the process of my pulling my 5S and rebuilding it. At the same time it will hopefully give some people a better insight on what it takes to do a proper nitrous setup on a 5S.

Well to start with a little background info on my girl, she is a 94 GT hatchback with 260K miles on the original motor, before the motor pull mods included:


- NGK Plug Wires
- NGK Plugs
- Full long tube header
- Full 2.5" Exhaust
- CAI
- Webcams 294 Grind cams
- Apexi Neo Tune

She put down a healthy 119 WHP and 132 WTQ with these mods and a tune.

So here we go with the pics of the build:
(Sorry for the crappy cell phone pictures)


Well underway to taking the old tired engine out


Here it comes... (thats what she said?)


Almost out




Needs a little cleaning...


And here is the culprit for wayy too many speeding tickets.


To be reunited soon


Whiteboy power? (My buddy, not me)


It was definitely time it came out for a good clean if anything!


Tear down




organization is key in a good motor build.


Finally popped the top


260K miles worth of carbon...not too bad i guess.


Factory honing hatch marks?! Wait a minute here...


I knew it was too good to be true...bores are totally worthless and scratched up on the sides,
sorry it may be hard to see in this picture but it was there in all 4!



Bare block ready to see the machine shop.

At this point I brought the block, head, cams, flywheel, crank, rods, pistons, and crank pulley to my machine shop to have them check everything and
dynamically balance the entire rotating assembly.

But of course, as any good story the bad news comes first....



Hard to see, but the head was cracked in about 7-9 different places, I never would have know
if I had not taken it apart, this thing ran like a beast!



This picture shows what happens when a spark plug electrode tip breaks off and rattles around your motor for a while,
car still ran perfectly with this damage, the top of the piston looked the same as the head.

Machine shop also pointed out that the motor was running hot, hence the imprint of the head gasket around each combustion chamber...
so the block got decked, bored .20 over and a new cylinder head and 4 oversized pistons were purchased. Cue the waiting for one piston
to arrive from Japan...

After about 3 weeks of waiting on one piston, finally got everything to the machine shop and got it all back. Work done includes:

- Block bored .20 over
- Block decked to ensure flat surface
- Balanced crankshaft, rods, pistons, flywheel, and crank pulley.
- Polished cam bearing surfaces
- Shot-peened rods to recondition and strengthen
- Cleaned block, intake manifold, and all other items at the machine shop.

So once everything was back in the garage I got down to business.


Masked off the blocked and primed it


Same treatment for the valve cover


Re-man cylinder head gets a combustion chamber balancing







Finally got all 4 combustion chambers to have the same volume within .05 cc
Painstaking process but entirely necessary especially for the upcoming power-adder.


And the reassembly begins:






Now I would like to say that i'm good enough to do this by memory...but I have a little cheat cheat




Freshly balanced crank gets dropped in...


And bolted down.


New pistons happily in their new home


Everything looks so clean...




By the way, I painted the block and valve cover in a fresh Gloss Black...and the new head it on and torqued.


Needs 294's!!!!...soon to come


Oil pump and new water pump installed


Cream on the outside clean on the inside???


This thing is so much easier to time out of the car....


Performance cams happily in their new home as well

At this point i debated for a while on what to do for a power-adder...turbo...somehow manage to piece together a supercharger system...or nitrous.
Well since nobody else has really extensively played with nitrous on this motor, since it makes so much sense to do a 3S swap, I decided to go a little outside the box and dabble in the N02 area...which as far as i'm concerned is still a new area for the 5S, correct me if i'm wrong.

So after some deliberation and thought, I decided to go for a Zex Direct Port Injection Wet nitrous kit, this would ensure that all cylinders will get the same amount of nitrous and fuel and reduce my chances of leaning out one or more of the cylinders. The main reason I did this instead of the easier alternative of just spraying through the throttle body is because I asked the 6gc community which one they would recommend, and I got some great answers from many members. The one that really pushed me to go the direct port route is that from Dr. tweak (Thanks). he stated that the FI intake manifold is designed to flow air and not nitrous and fuel, so there is a great chance that the first 2 or 3 cylinders would be properly fed, but the last one (#1) would get the least amount of fuel, and lean out and possibly crack a piston or maybe even worse.

So after this I decided, ok if i'm gonna do this I am going to do it the right way, and that is why I chose this set up. Also because I dont think anyone else has done a setup like this on a 5S which means I get to enjoy the trials and tribulations of trying it out...oh boy what am I getting myself into!?!?!

So with no nitrous experience before I set off into a new world..for me:


Drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the intake manifold to fit some pretty purple pieces


Like these!


Shiny!!! 8O


Inside shot of the intake runner


Another shot of the same


Starting to take shape


Holy crap!!! Is this really happening?!??


Test fitting to see if it all drops on....


Hot damn! I barely cleared a part of the air pipe on the back of the manifold for cylinder #2...but it works!


Here you can see where the nitrous nozzle is snugly against the air pipe on the right...


I must admit, it looks bad-ass!


Finally she is all back together...just putting the finishing touches on.


Another close up for SnGs


Of course, Southbend Racing Stage 2 clutch...this thing is amazing! (highly recommended)


Find the nitrous solenoids... ok its not that hard.


Nitrous solenoid...not drilling required to mount it.


Same goes for the fuel solenoid.


And a shot of both


Ran the supply line for the bottle trough the shifter cables boot, water tight, and secured to the shifter cables so its not going anywhere.


Just a shot to help locate the solenoids




As far as clearance issues are concerned, this thing fit like it was meant to be! I couldnt believe it when I saw it!!!!


Almost in


Another shot of the lines, hard to tell but it all cleared the exhaust, the steering rack, and the K-member without needing to be repositioned...all luck! I mean skill *cough*


Holy crap! Where did it all go?!?


If you know what to look for you can find it, with the hood off...




And she is all back at home, just need to button it all up and try a first start





At this point I finished up plugging everything back in, primed the motor and turned it over, it actually suprised the hell out of me and started right up on the first turn of the key, I must have done something right at least!

The only thing left to do for the nitrous kit is to wire up the solenoids and the activation switch, the WOT switch is already on the motor, just need to do the arming switch and mount the bottle.

So I started driving the car and putting miles on the engine, everything worked flawlessly, good power, smooth rotation throughout the RPM range, all that good stuff!

Eventually the summer came to an end and I had to go back to school, so I kept driving the car as it is my DD. came home for labor day weekend and some blind old bat decided to do a number on me as I was leaving Wal-Mart


Took out my entire passenger door, luckily the damage was limited to the door only, not the fender, not the rear quarter...just the door...a bit of luck I guess.

So regardless I kept driving the car, took care of all the insurance mumbo jumbo and go a settlement check. Then I was on the way home from school one weekend and halfway home...



Managed to coax her into an AZ parking lot, changed plugs, distributor cap, rotor and it still continued to fire on only two cylinders...FML

So I called AAA to the rescue



And had her towed 112 miles the rest of the way home, first time I have EVER used AAA for my own car...and it payed off, only cost me $36 in the end! Love AAA!!!!!



So I started to diagnose her and did a compression test, cylinders #1 & 2 came up completely dead...which reaffirmed my fear that I had just popped a head gasket... GD!!!!!!!!!!!!

So off comes the head


And sure enough...

About 1/4" of HG is missing between 1 & 2, dont worry the coolant is just from pulling the head in the car.

So I proceeded to fix the blown HG, and managed to make her live again!!!!

The lesson here is that you must bring your reman cylinder head to a machine shop, have them deck it regardless of what it looks like if the head has enough material left, and get them to clean it out as well. As I found out the hard way, there was still some glass beads left over in the oil ports in the head and it almost ruined my 294 cams, luckily my machine shop was able to save it all, and had I not blown the HG I would never have figured that one out either...so in the end it was a good thing it let go then because I was heading home that weekend to finish the nitrous install, and was gonna go spray it for the first time on the dyno...crisis averted!!!!

So now that winter took over she is warm in the body shop getting a new door and maybe a few other goodies

For all those of you that have read this far down, thank you for your time.

This project is obviously still underway, so I will keep updating things as they happen and hopefully I will have on of the first 5S sprayed motors with some dyno charts to show what I got. I know this build may seem like a complete waste of money to some people, but I wanted to be different and instead of doing the all common 3S swap I took a different route.

I hope you all enjoyed this thread, and I hope that you will give me feedback on this build, I am open to hearing people's thoughts and ideas it, good or bad.

Subscribe to it in order to get the latest updates on everything!

Thanks again for your time,

Matt

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: Dec 22, 2011 - 3:40 PM

[NGHTKD]

Awesome thread!!! Going to subscribe!

There is going to be some big 5S projects soon including this one.

Cheers,
Cal.

[eboz74]

best of luck im in favor of the idea way to stand out lol

[Smaay]

awesome thread, im very proud of your pictures and that you used a southbend clutch. they are awesome! this is something that you should have done. use the head gasket from a 98 camry 5S-FE. its a multilayer metal gasket. you blew your HG because you used that crappy paper one. I also suggest looking into ARP studs. Did you use OEM oversized pistons?

This is what i have learned in my experience with nitrous. IT HITS HARD! Its awesome but its not a gradual increase like a turbo spooling up. its just there BAM! that might have also contributed to your HG going.

what size jets were you using?

oh and one more thing, dont use green coolant. use toyota red. yeah its a little more $$$ but considering how much you have in your setup, its worth it.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jan 14, 2011 - 9:53 AM

[presure2]

X2 on the 98+ gasket (all 98+5s motors came with them from the factory) celica/camry/solara, dont matter, they are all the same.
agreed on the ARP studs as well. you'll have to grind a couple MM off the 2 that sit under the slave gears for the cams, but thats not gonna affect the stud at all, as long as you dont super heat it, and dont quench it when it does get hot.

[Smaay]

^^^ thats good to point out. when i did my rebuild, i used a camry engine gasket kit and the throttle body gaskets were actually different.

[94celicadude]

awesome thread, im very proud of your pictures and that you used a southbend clutch. they are awesome! this is something that you should have done. use the head gasket from a 98 camry 5S-FE. its a multilayer metal gasket. you blew your HG because you used that crappy paper one. I also suggest looking into ARP studs. Did you use OEM oversized pistons?

This is what i have learned in my experience with nitrous. IT HITS HARD! Its awesome but its not a gradual increase like a turbo spooling up. its just there BAM! that might have also contributed to your HG going.

what size jets were you using?

oh and one more thing, dont use green coolant. use toyota red. yeah its a little more $$$ but considering how much you have in your setup, its worth it.

I had no idea that the 98+ 5S head gaskets were MLS from the factory, I ended up going with a complete engine gasket kit from Nopi to save $100...and it came back to bite me in the ass lol

I did end up ordering a Toyota head gasket when I repaired it and the one for the 94 model 5S was an MLS head gasket as well, maybe Toyota just decided to replace them all with MLS in the end...not really sure.

I did use OEM oversized pistons because I had a bad experience with some aftermarket oversized pistons when I built my 7A a few years ago, so I went Toyota on everything this time but obviously the gaskets, which I should have.

It is currently jetted for a 50 shot, and will probably stay that way since that spiderweb of lines in the back is hard to get to while in the car, and the fact that I need to change 10 jets if I want to up the shot...so we will see how she likes the 50 for now lol

PS never got to spray the 50, HG went before the bottle was ever in the car! lol

X2 on the 98+ gasket (all 98+5s motors came with them from the factory) celica/camry/solara, dont matter, they are all the same.
agreed on the ARP studs as well. you'll have to grind a couple MM off the 2 that sit under the slave gears for the cams, but thats not gonna affect the stud at all, as long as you dont super heat it, and dont quench it when it does get hot.

I wanted to go ARP but I wasnt sure if they even had anything for the 5S. I guess that is something I should have done a little more research on that while I was building the motor. If I have the unfortunate even of blowing a HG again, I will definitely go with ARP studs and 98+ HG.

Thanks again for all the input! It is greatly appreciated

Matt

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: Jan 14, 2011 - 2:55 PM

[HectortheRican]

Great thread man!

[easternpiro1]

i must say... this thread is full of win. from the topic title to the pics! thumbs up!!!!

[captb]

loving the detail in the thread. I was supposed to run an errand 1/2hrs ago but lost track of time reading this. lol.

[95st-celica]

YOU.

DO.

GREAT.

WORK.

Plain and simple man. Every post i read i am impressed. From your red coupe to this Hatch has been nothing but top notch, execelent work.



" I decided to go for a Zex Direct Port Injection Wet nitrous kit"

Not a bad way to spend 10,000 dollers

HAHA had to do it.

That totally sucks about the HG, but what are you going to do man, **** happens.

No way in hell is this build/project/whatever you wanna call it a waste of time or money. I have been wanting to do a nitrous build for so long, but havent had the time or the resources to do it yet. I really hope you get great results out of this(which im sure you will) Only thing i would have done differently was put in 75 shot jets. You cant go wrong with 50 either though, thats safe and smart for untill the engine breaks in a little bit more. I know for a fact that with a build like this, where everything is new, a 5S will have NO problems at all handeling nitrous. I wouldn't be scared to even throw a 150 shot at it and take it to the dyno for a couple pulls.

Good luck with this man, im going to be keeping an eye on the thread. Hope everything works out in your favor.

This post has been edited by 95st-celica: Jan 14, 2011 - 5:01 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Thank you for the articulate, concise, and informative thread.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jan 14, 2011 - 5:02 PM

[SwissFerdi]

FAWK IT MAKES ME WANT NITROUS

[EKAn]

So sick, cant wait untill your spray it

[captb]

Please Vid and share when you do...

[DEATH]

Awesome build bro!
Yes - to answer your question Toyota only stocks MHG's for the 5S now - they probably should have all along.
I too recently had the only aftermarket parts house part I put in my motor take a $hit on me - Toyota or better is the best way to be bro. So I'm not gonna give you any $hit since I made a similar mistake but why didn't you opt for a MHG in the first place considering it's a nitrous build? Just asking.
BTW - I had a friend with a 5S MR2 who did a similar nitrous install [tho not anywhere near as clean as yours - same parts - same place but yours is just so artfully installed ] and he had KILLER results on 50 shot. We even lined it up with a MR2T and he pulled away so have fun with it but break it in first! [Doubt I need to tell you that judging from your build quality but you never know - you did snag a paper gasket after all J/P - couldn't resist]
Keep it up bro and lets see some Dyno results please!

[mak5603]

Sweet build bro, can't wait to see some numbers!

[Johnnyny]

me likey!

[Hanyo]

good job and keep up the great work!

[94celicadude]

Thanks for all the positive feedback guys, I really appreciate it!

I will be sure to keep you all updated on the latest and especially on numbers when I finally spray it, like I stated in the thread the car is in the body shop right now and it is coming along quite well, I hope to get it back by the end of January maybe middle of February, at that point I will have the nerve racking job of putting it all back together without scratching the fresh paint

Once again thanks for all the + comments! This is why i love the 6gc community!

[Ted95]

was that a 69 Boss Mustang in one of those pics???

sick build btw, def give you props for going outside the box and grabbin the 5s by the nads and seeing what shes capable of, great work!

[94celicadude]

I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice the mustang lol

It is actually a 69 Mach 1 "S" code with the 390 Hi-Po Big Block in it, I wish I could say it is my car but it's a family friend's car that i have done a lot of work on.

Thank for the props, the body work is coming along well and hopefully I will be able to get her back by the end of the month, maybe beginning of next month. I have a few things in store that are a little custom, and unique. I am interested in seeing the response once she's done!

Keep you all posted as it happens!

[stephen_lee]

any updates?

[94celicadude]

Hey all,

Sorry ive been so off the forums for so long.

Updates are as follows.

Graduated college.
Got a big boy job
Sprayed the Celica...and....It still needs a lot of tuning lol

The stock fuel pressure out of my car is about 48 psi which is about 10 psi too high for the nitrous kit, so im still in progress as far as tuning is concerned.

But the last time she was on the dyno.

167.5 WHP and 189.3 WTQ on bottle
132.4 WHP and 145.8 WTQ off bottle

So basically a 35 shot, ive upped the shot recently and it now picks up on the wideband...as in I still spray 10.9 A/F instead of being off the charts.

I will up the shot some more this weekend and hopefully get it on the rollers within the next few weeks!

Ill keep you updated with more pics and dyno charts to follow.

BTW im going for 200 WHP!

[hatchy_gt-s]

Nice thread! I'm glad your floor board didnt fall out

A set of cams and some new injectors and you can hit that 200 mark.

[94celicadude]

She already has a set of 294 Webcams regrind in her

So i'm hoping to see the 200 whp mark quite soon!

PS Wont need new injectors, I have much too high fuel pressure already! lol Which is not a bad thing

This post has been edited by 94celicadude: Aug 10, 2011 - 7:33 PM

[SwissFerdi]

Nice thread! I'm glad your floor board didnt fall out

Man, weird to think how ignorant I used to be. The first time I watched that movie I was around 12, and I just remember thinking "Holy crap, the MANIFOLD? I don't know what it is but it must be hella important." Now I'm like danger to manifold = floorboard falling out WTF son?

CN: Ferdi learns cars.

Anyway, I digress. Nice to see continual progression on this, you have my interest.

[Smaay]

your AF is perfect while spraying, and your fuel pressure has nothing to do with it. you are using the stock FPR on the rail right? oohh wait a sec, where are you getting teh fuel from for the nitrous? pre regulator or post regulator? in my Supra i pull fuel from my rail which is at 55psi controlled by the regulator. if you are pulling fuel from the pump before it goes into the regulator then yeah its way too high.

[stephen_lee]

if im imagining this properly, pulling fuel from anywhere between the pressure regulator and the fuel filter will = injector pressure.

the regulator works like a valve, opening up proportionally to "bleed off" the extra pressure. kinda like a wastegate

the pressure regulator is at the opposite end of the fuel rail to where the fuel comes in, so THE WHOLE fuel line between the pump and regulator = regulated pressure, with a slight drop in PSI in downstream of the filter.

after the regulator the fuel should be at tank pressure (should be ambient or vac) and free flowing. so tapping in after that would mean basically no pressure.

[94celicadude]

I did tap into the fuel line before it bolts into the fuel.

I tapped a fitting into the line from the fuel filter to the rail, so this is pre regulator fuel pressure.

I would not have enough if I had tapped in from post-regulator, because as stephen said it would basically be no pressure.

And i dont agree with the statement that a 10.9 A/F while spraying is perfect...that is so rich its not even funny.

Once again tuning is still a work in progress.

I will update you guys when I do some more work!

[delusionz]

would pay to upgrade the fuel pump though, to make sure you can still supply the same fuel pressure while using the spray

[94celicadude]

would pay to upgrade the fuel pump though, to make sure you can still supply the same fuel pressure while using the spray

No need, fuel pressure holds at a steady 48 psi spraying just as it does when off the juice

[stephen_lee]

yeah 10.9 is richhh

id want it close to 12-12.5 for safety, but even thats a little rich for max power.

i have found my 100% stock motor wants to run 10-11:1 at WOT though, so you are within what toyota wants u to run i bet...

[94celicadude]

Hey guys and girls!

Sorry this thread has been dead for so long, the whole big boy job and everything means I have no time to do anything else, but I do have some money to play with now


Finally got to put my baby on the dyno with the nitrous system all sorted, I had run into some issues a while back with lines getting clogged up after only two bottles through the system, but now it all works and I have a dyno chart to prove it!!!



Only 4 HP shy of my goal

I think with one or two more pill adjustments I should be able to see the 200 + WHP that I have been seeking...and btw did you notice the fact that this thing is a torque monster!!!?!?! 244 WTQ!!!!!

Well I will keep you all updated as the mods continue on my baby, because they will only keep rolling in from now on

PS Here is a close up picture showing the cart...AFR if on the money too!



Happy holidays to all! Hope you have a great end of the year, and lets make next year even better for the 6cg community!

[cheela]

almost there. that's awesome!

[Fastbird]

I must compliment you. VERY VERY good work. Impressive.

[Neon90424]

great build man I just purchased the ZEX 4 cyl kit any comments on the kit easy to install etc?

[94celicadude]

Thanks Fastbird!!! I always had the desire to make her faster than she was after riding in your wifes car all those years ago.

So thanks for the motivation

Neon - did you get the direct port kit for the 4 cylinder? It isn't hard to install, but that's all relative to your mechanical abilities.of course. If you aren't sure, seek professional help, there is plenty of that in the 6gc community and if you have any questions always feel free to hit me up.

It was a little frustrating having to be the first to rely solely on nitrous to make my power since no one else had done it yet...that I knew off, but in the long run it paid off.

Thanks again to everyone for the positive comments during this whole build, much appreciated.

[Neon90424]

Yeah thanks man I got direct port and my mechanic will be installing it...my only beef is that nitrous is 200$ a fill in paraguay so I will definitely not be using it often...

very nice build man

[Smaay]

you are going to blow that engine, your peak torque is at 4000RPM, look at your AF ratios, you are in the 14s.

[Neon90424]

What would fail first? melted pistons?

[94celicadude]

you are going to blow that engine, your peak torque is at 4000RPM, look at your AF ratios, you are in the 14s.

Thanks for the vote of confidence....

I do realize that the AFR is in the 14s as soon as the bottle hits, but to be comepletely honest it climbs out of the RPMs so quickly, I do not believe it to be causing harm at this point.

Now I am by no means a professional tuner, nor did I tune my own car, but I feel that the 5s is a solid motor that can take this abuse...not for ever of course.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, I dont want to sound ignorant by any means.

What do you think would fail first as Neon asked? I know for a fact the bottom end is strong enough, if you've ever cracked open a 5s you know that the rods are beefy as hell, I also had them shot peened to recondition and strenghthen them during my rebuild.

I appreciate all the advise I can get and I do listen to recommendations, but I would appreciate you not just getting on an saying that I'm going to blow my motor just because my AFR is in the 14s momentarily.

[evo_lucian]

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread, what size jets are you running ?

With nitrous oxide one should not rely heavily on wideband readings especially if you are using a fogger system. I highly recommend you learn to read spark plugs. Spark plugs never lie.

Secondly I suspect the lean afr your dyno graph is showing as soon as the nitrous is activated is probably a fuel pressure drop in the fuel rail when the fuel solenoid is energized. What fuel pump are you using.

Lastly I highly recommend you change the distribution blocks that came with your zex nitrous kit. The distribution on these are horrible. The bottom two ports get the majority of the nitrous distribution. These two ports are connected to cyl 1 & 4 so they will run leaner. You may say that your wideband is giving you a good reading so all is well, but unless you have wideband sensors just after each exhaust port then your wideband is getting a "combined" AFR for all 4 cyl . So cyl 1 & 4 may be seeing a 13:1 AFR and 2 & 3 may be seeing 10:1 so when these 4 reading combine in the exhaust manifold before the sensor , its none the wiser. This brings us back to my previous point, "learn to read spark plugs"

All in all , I like your build. Good luck.

[94celicadude]

I'm actually running a factory fuel pump for now.

I have a FP gauge on the car and I see 48 psi of fuel pressure while the nitrous is activated. The kit actually calls for 40 psi, so i know that I'm ok in that regard.

It is possible that the instantaneous lean spot is from the fuel pressure dropping in the fuel rail once the fuel solenoid kicks in, I do agree with you.

Now that i know I am making good HP numbers with the nitrous, I will do some test and read the plugs, I'm running NGK Platinum plugs, which I really like and have had no issue with.

I tried to source a set of those one step colder, and found it almost impossible and very expensive, around $50 for a set of 4

But I do like your input and suggestions, had not thought about the distribution blocks being biased in the...well distribution lol

What would you recommend I change the blocks out with? Brand? Style? Design?

Thanks again for the input! I will let you all know once I've had a chance to read the plugs and see what is going on, will even try to source a stethoscope camera to check my piston tops and see what type of carbon/heat patterns I have.

Cheers!

Sorry I didn't read the entire thread, what size jets are you running ?

With nitrous oxide one should not rely heavily on wideband readings especially if you are using a fogger system. I highly recommend you learn to read spark plugs. Spark plugs never lie.

Secondly I suspect the lean afr your dyno graph is showing as soon as the nitrous is activated is probably a fuel pressure drop in the fuel rail when the fuel solenoid is energized. What fuel pump are you using.

Lastly I highly recommend you change the distribution blocks that came with your zex nitrous kit. The distribution on these are horrible. The bottom two ports get the majority of the nitrous distribution. These two ports are connected to cyl 1 & 4 so they will run leaner. You may say that your wideband is giving you a good reading so all is well, but unless you have wideband sensors just after each exhaust port then your wideband is getting a "combined" AFR for all 4 cyl . So cyl 1 & 4 may be seeing a 13:1 AFR and 2 & 3 may be seeing 10:1 so when these 4 reading combine in the exhaust manifold before the sensor , its none the wiser. This brings us back to my previous point, "learn to read spark plugs"

All in all , I like your build. Good luck.

[KAOS]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand subscribed!

Awesome details! Keep up the great work!

[evo_lucian]

I'm actually running a factory fuel pump for now.

I have a FP gauge on the car and I see 48 psi of fuel pressure while the nitrous is activated. The kit actually calls for 40 psi, so i know that I'm ok in that regard.

It is possible that the instantaneous lean spot is from the fuel pressure dropping in the fuel rail once the fuel solenoid kicks in, I do agree with you.

Now that i know I am making good HP numbers with the nitrous, I will do some test and read the plugs, I'm running NGK Platinum plugs, which I really like and have had no issue with.

I tried to source a set of those one step colder, and found it almost impossible and very expensive, around $50 for a set of 4

But I do like your input and suggestions, had not thought about the distribution blocks being biased in the...well distribution lol

What would you recommend I change the blocks out with? Brand? Style? Design?

Thanks again for the input! I will let you all know once I've had a chance to read the plugs and see what is going on, will even try to source a stethoscope camera to check my piston tops and see what type of carbon/heat patterns I have.

Cheers!

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scrip...p?idproduct=185
"Showerhead" nitrous blocks

As a precautionary measure I would upgrade the fuel pump.

Copper plugs will be fine , 1 step colder.

[evo_lucian]

What jets were used to make the 196 whp ?

[94celicadude]

.54 in all the nitrous side of the nozzles, .19 in the fuel side of the nozzles.

The distribution blocks were jetted to .46 on the nitrous side and .16 on the fuel side if I remember correctly.

I am actually going to take her to the dyno again in the next few weeks to see if I can get the over 200 WHP numbers ive been looking for.

Will keep everyone posted!