ct26 turbine wheels, JDM ceramic versus USDM steel, differences? Are they noticeable or negligible? Options

[Darkchylde]

Soooooooo, I have had to send my 26 out to be rebuilt and in the process have found that the turbine wheels need to be changed. The shop that has the turbo says that they can't get the JDM ceramic wheels so they will have to use steel ones.

1) how will this affect my spool time/ Lag? (new to forced induction, understand the basics but am still a little fuzzy on the intricacies)

2) anyone know where to get the ceramic wheels?

3) any one have a JDM importers # or a 26 or 20b they can spare?

Thanks for your input and assistance all.

[brenton1919]

Soooooooo, I have had to send my 26 out to be rebuilt and in the process have found that the turbine wheels need to be changed. The shop that has the turbo says that they can't get the JDM ceramic wheels so they will have to use steel ones.

1) how will this affect my spool time/ Lag? (new to forced induction, understand the basics but am still a little fuzzy on the intricacies)

2) anyone know where to get the ceramic wheels?

3) any one have a JDM importers # or a 26 or 20b they can spare?

Thanks for your input and assistance all.

u should of sent to atsracing they make ct 27 turbos

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 3, 2011 - 12:23 AM

[Darkchylde]

If I recall correctly the ct27 is a 26 housing with 20b internals correct? ats racing eh? I'll have to give them a ring. On that note has anyone had any luck with the aforementioned turbo either. The ct 27 that is?

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 3, 2011 - 1:12 AM

[brenton1919]

If I recall correctly the ct27 is a 26 housing with 20b internals correct? ats racing eh? I'll have to give them a ring. On that note has anyone had any luck with the aforementioned turbo either. The ct 27 that is?

yeah i was just up there the other day thats one badass turbo because they sure do sell them alot im thinking about sellin my cb20 to get one

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 3, 2011 - 1:56 PM

[Darkchylde]

does any one have the specs for the ct 27?

[delusionz]

ct26 is crap nomatter what they do with it.

for starters the turbine exducer is 52mm in a ct26, its only 50mm in a ct20b (smaller is better here for spoolup)

the standard ct20b compressor inducer is 48mm, the largest one they can fit in the ct26 is a 46mm t04e wheel (up from the standard 42mm)

compared to a ct20b the best you can achieve with a ct26 is same max hp at a higher boost level, with an extra 1000rpm of low boost threshhold and laggy throttle response

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 4, 2011 - 5:38 PM

[Darkchylde]

Okay from what I can tell Delusionz, you ARE definitely a fan of the ct 20b. My question for you is do you speak from personal experience or just a statistical stand point? If anyone out there has a ct 27 please chime in I would like to have a first hand account of spool time, max output an general upkeep? Other threads that I have come across have had many a person complaining about shattering wheels constantly.( if I am correct you are one of the people who said they dislike the constant replacement of the ct's Delusionz. If I am wrong please correct, no sarcasm just recalling.)

Calling Ats in a little while to get specs and make a decision, so lemme know!

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 3, 2011 - 10:20 AM

[Culpable04]

the cost of a CT27 is not worthy. your best bet is to find a CT20b, try to see if Jim has any in stock, you can pick them up personally and for a second gen is the best bolt on upgrade. this turbo will max out your fuel system, so the turbo has enough air flow to make the most out of your stock setup.

[lagos]

Okay from what I can tell Delusionz, you ARE definitely a fan of the ct 20b. My question for you is do you sperm from personal experience or just a statistical stand point? If anyone out there has a ct 27 please chime in I would like to have a first hand account of spool time, max output an general upkeep? Other threads that I have come across have had many a person complaining about shattering wheels constantly.( if I am correct you are one of the people who said they dislike the constant replacement of the ct's Delusionz. If I am wrong please correct, no sarcasm just recalling.)

Calling Ats in a little while to get specs and make a decision, so lemme know!

A ct27 or a ct20b can get you 300hp or more. A ct26 rebuild, trim upgrade, etc... will not make more than 240-250hp
Don't waste your money on a ct26 rebuild!!!! Either buy a ct20b or upgrade it to a ct27.

[delusionz]

Yeah I'm the one that's blown a ct20b and a ct26/t04e hybrid and have gone with a garrett gt28rs

if i could got another ct20b cheap i would, but they are rare since its not just st205 guys that want them, its also st185 and sw20 guys

[brenton1919]

ct26 is crap nomatter what they do with it.

for starters the turbine exducer is 52mm in a ct26, its only 50mm in a ct20b (smaller is better here for spoolup)

the standard ct20b compressor inducer is 54mm, the largest one they can fit in the ct26 is a 53mm t04e wheel (up from the standard 46mm)

compared to a ct20b the best you can achieve with a ct26 is same max hp at a higher boost level, with an extra 1000rpm of low boost threshhold and laggy throttle response

dude they have kits with there ct27 turbo runnin 500 + hp

[delusionz]

I don't know, Someone will try and correct me here but I was running 17psi on the ct26/t04e and it was like the ct20b at 14psi in the top end, it was like not having a turbo at all in the low end.

It barely felt like I had 230hp at the engine

[brenton1919]

I don't know, Someone will try and correct me here but I was running 17psi on the ct26/t04e and it was like the ct20b at 14psi in the top end, it was like not having a turbo at all in the low end.

It barely felt like I had 230hp at the engine

THE CT27 isn't the ct26 u keep saying ct26 the one thing the ct27 has is the ct26 hosing that its when your celica can beat one of atsracing mr2 u can talk all the crap in the world about a ct27 but i dont think that will ever happen i dont even think they have a mr2 up there runnin anything under 450 rwhp go check out these links on youtube this is matt's car from atsracing http://youtu.be/0Imf2NiB1xI.........and thats why u blow up turbos not because there crap because the ct26 is a good turbo but because u ride around on 17psi u are killing that turbo it is a stock turbo not after market it wasn't made to be beat up like that and if your car was stock with no upgrades you are making the turbo do all of the work

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 3, 2011 - 5:37 PM

[korban]

Soooooooo, I have had to send my 26 out to be rebuilt and in the process have found that the turbine wheels need to be changed. The shop that has the turbo says that they can't get the JDM ceramic wheels so they will have to use steel ones.

1) how will this affect my spool time/ Lag? (new to forced induction, understand the basics but am still a little fuzzy on the intricacies)

2) anyone know where to get the ceramic wheels?

3) any one have a JDM importers # or a 26 or 20b they can spare?

Thanks for your input and assistance all.

Stay away from the ceramic wheel, IMHO that's one of the worst things about the CT26. When they get hot they can shatter. If you're running low octane you have to retard timing at higher boost levels to prevent det and the wheel gets hotter while pushing harder. Go with the steel wheel rebuild if it's heaps cheaper than buying a new turbo, be aware that a 2nd hand turbo could be due for a rebuild too (would be more worth it with a '20b'. ST215 Caldina GTT turbo (C15?) will bolt up to a gen3 engine and isn't a bad option either.

[Darkchylde]

Some background, I have a 2nd gen 3sgte, e153 trans and devils own Meth injection and a walbro 255 lb/hr fuel pump. I run 93 or higher at all times, I can get 100 and 116 for future reference I was thinking of transporting some up to the Colt State park meet. @ 10 a gallon. The only thing I don't have for a moderately larger turbo is the injectors. Also with this new turbo I will be puchasing both a Uego w/ or without fuel control and or a Safc.

[Darkchylde]

Stay away from the ceramic wheel, IMHO that's one of the worst things about the CT26. When they get hot they can shatter. If you're running low octane you have to retard timing at higher boost levels to prevent det and the wheel gets hotter while pushing harder. Go with the steel wheel rebuild if it's heaps cheaper than buying a new turbo, be aware that a 2nd hand turbo could be due for a rebuild too (would be more worth it with a '20b'. ST215 Caldina GTT turbo (C15?) will bolt up to a gen3 engine and isn't a bad option either.

I was under the impression that the ceramics allowed for faster spooling and reduced load. Am I incorrect in this assumption.

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 3, 2011 - 10:17 PM

[korban]

You seem pretty well setup there, what ECU are you using?

I know of no advantage from the ceramic wheel, so i'm not sure why you're so keen on it?

I'm upgrading my turbo and will be using a Walbro and factory injectors, should get me to 300hp, then i'll look at upgrading the injectors later.

[Darkchylde]

Not, keen on the ceramic per se, just trying to get the most reasonable and efficient setup for my dollar without sacrificing the smooth operation I have become accustomed to.

I have a stock gen2 ecu.

[easternpiro1]

glad i stumbled onto this thread. I so happen to have a spare ct20b (4th gen) but hearing you guys talk about shattering turbines makes me not want to sell it.

from all the info ive been told, ceramic= lighter and that = quicker spool time. IIRC mine spooled at about 2300rpm it was an immediate kick in the crotch.

and i think i heard jim or death say that the steel wheel is MUCH more suited for higher boost as it wont shatter, but you would sacrifice spool time. IMHO i dont think the spool time difference is alot. maybe 300-400rpms? im assuming on this point.

So to clarify, the ceramic wheels will shatter, but under what load are people shattering them? i want to know because i plan on upping my boost to about 20psi when i want to have some fun, and keeping it stock 15psi when im cruising.
I also plan on installing the AEM FIC to go with the devils own kit i bought.

My power goal is about 330 and im satisfied. ive heard talk of a ct20b beign able to do better than this, but i dont want to push it with my stock 550 injectors

im REALLY sorry to thread jack but im seeing alot of knowledge on the ct20b in this thread and thats exactly what i need to absorb

good luck with your build darkchylde!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: May 3, 2011 - 11:53 PM

[Darkchylde]

Sure you don't want to part with that 20b brother? If it's in good condition I promise a fair price and honestly just want my car running again. This is my daily.

[brenton1919]

Sure you don't want to part with that 20b brother? If it's in good condition I promise a fair price and honestly just want my car running again. This is my daily.

sell it to him bro let him roll with us caldina boy's he wont have the engine like us but at least he will be rolling with the turbo

[easternpiro1]

lol let me get her up and runnin, and rolling for a bit to be sure the one i got is good. i also have to rummage to find it!

[delusionz]

I don't know, Someone will try and correct me here but I was running 17psi on the ct26/t04e and it was like the ct20b at 14psi in the top end, it was like not having a turbo at all in the low end.

It barely felt like I had 230hp at the engine

THE CT27 isn't the ct26 u keep saying ct26 the one thing the ct27 has is the ct26 hosing that its when your celica can beat one of atsracing mr2 u can talk all the crap in the world about a ct27 but i dont think that will ever happen i dont even think they have a mr2 up there runnin anything under 450 rwhp go check out these links on youtube this is matt's car from atsracing http://youtu.be/0Imf2NiB1xI.........and thats why u blow up turbos not because there crap because the ct26 is a good turbo but because u ride around on 17psi u are killing that turbo it is a stock turbo not after market it wasn't made to be beat up like that and if your car was stock with no upgrades you are making the turbo do all of the work

when you own a gt4 or a 3s-gte car with the weight of a gt4 you'll reconsider the ct26. ct26 only feels good to you because even 200hp in a fwd na celica makes it go fast.

the ct26 blew its oil seals long before i boosted it to 17. 17psi is fine on a t04e rebuild, thats how the ats turbo makes its power you think they mess around with stock boost? they wont barely see 190hp at the wheels buddy let alone 450 or whatever you claim.

the ct20b ceramic turbine shattered at stock boost - 13psi.

i already posted what i know, 53mm t04e wheel is the biggest u should get in a ct26, even look on the ATS website they say the same thing themselves, their CT27 is exactly the same as the turbo I had, unless they also do something with the exhaust wheel but as i already pointed out, the ct26 exhaust wheel is 2mm oversized as it is, they cant go with a smaller wheel they can only replace it with a steel wheel which provides better durability, mine remained ceramic.

[Culpable04]

ceramic wheel makes for a faster spool, but is weaker and will break easier when pushing the turbo close to its limits, that's why people pay extra cash for WRC ct20b turbos, they have steel wheel.

I have a spare WRC CT20b turbo but it needs new seals, once I rebuuild it I will sell the turbo I currenty run on the car ( ct20b non wrc ) but I'm in no rush as I'm focusing on toher things on the car, if not that turbo would be yours art.

[brenton1919]

I don't know, Someone will try and correct me here but I was running 17psi on the ct26/t04e and it was like the ct20b at 14psi in the top end, it was like not having a turbo at all in the low end.

It barely felt like I had 230hp at the engine

THE CT27 isn't the ct26 u keep saying ct26 the one thing the ct27 has is the ct26 hosing that its when your celica can beat one of atsracing mr2 u can talk all the crap in the world about a ct27 but i dont think that will ever happen i dont even think they have a mr2 up there runnin anything under 450 rwhp go check out these links on youtube this is matt's car from atsracing http://youtu.be/0Imf2NiB1xI.........and thats why u blow up turbos not because there crap because the ct26 is a good turbo but because u ride around on 17psi u are killing that turbo it is a stock turbo not after market it wasn't made to be beat up like that and if your car was stock with no upgrades you are making the turbo do all of the work

when you own a gt4 or a 3s-gte car with the weight of a gt4 you'll reconsider the ct26. ct26 only feels good to you because even 200hp in a fwd na celica makes it go fast.

the ct26 blew its oil seals long before i boosted it to 17. 17psi is fine on a t04e rebuild, thats how the ats turbo makes its power you think they mess around with stock boost? they wont barely see 190hp at the wheels buddy let alone 450 or whatever you claim.

the ct20b ceramic turbine shattered at stock boost - 13psi.

i already posted what i know, 53mm t04e wheel is the biggest u should get in a ct26, even look on the ATS website they say the same thing themselves, their CT27 is exactly the same as the turbo I had, unless they also do something with the exhaust wheel but as i already pointed out, the ct26 exhaust wheel is 2mm oversized as it is, they cant go with a smaller wheel they can only replace it with a steel wheel which provides better durability, mine remained ceramic.

dude u have no idea what you are talkin about they dont just switch out parts they redo the whole turbo what part dont u understand they dont use nothin from the ct26 but the hosing the ct20b and the ct27 are all most the the same the ct27 hp is maxed out stock with no upgraded wasted gate at 350hp thats just bolting it on to your stock set up with no up graded internals and a stock wasted gate now think if u have a 50mm wasted gate upgrade the internals the down pipe has nothin to do with nothing but use a brek down pipe upgrade your injectors u will see 700hp i dont know how yall do it over there but we dont just ride turbos we redo the whole engine like i said u are making the turbo do all the work if u have stock internals and I DONT HAVE A CT26 i have a CT20B caldina 3sgte st215 the whole engine not just the turbo around here we pay to play ill go to ats right now and buy one of there 2.2 stroker kits and it will be faster than your gt4 i go to ats alot i know what there cars can do ive seen them in person and if that turbo sucks so much i guess not bad because they have cars out the zoo sittin out there shop they couldn't even get me in last week to do my exhaust oh and by the way they use a 46 trim wheel not a 50 whatever u keep tryin to say OH and the ct20b shattered at 13 psi thats bull crap because my ct20b is runnin 15 psi all day and i have someone on here that can back me up with that....ask easternpiro1 hes runnin the same engine i am


This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 4, 2011 - 3:32 PM

[delusionz]

I don't know, Someone will try and correct me here but I was running 17psi on the ct26/t04e and it was like the ct20b at 14psi in the top end, it was like not having a turbo at all in the low end.

It barely felt like I had 230hp at the engine

THE CT27 isn't the ct26 u keep saying ct26 the one thing the ct27 has is the ct26 hosing that its when your celica can beat one of atsracing mr2 u can talk all the crap in the world about a ct27 but i dont think that will ever happen i dont even think they have a mr2 up there runnin anything under 450 rwhp go check out these links on youtube this is matt's car from atsracing http://youtu.be/0Imf2NiB1xI.........and thats why u blow up turbos not because there crap because the ct26 is a good turbo but because u ride around on 17psi u are killing that turbo it is a stock turbo not after market it wasn't made to be beat up like that and if your car was stock with no upgrades you are making the turbo do all of the work

when you own a gt4 or a 3s-gte car with the weight of a gt4 you'll reconsider the ct26. ct26 only feels good to you because even 200hp in a fwd na celica makes it go fast.

the ct26 blew its oil seals long before i boosted it to 17. 17psi is fine on a t04e rebuild, thats how the ats turbo makes its power you think they mess around with stock boost? they wont barely see 190hp at the wheels buddy let alone 450 or whatever you claim.

the ct20b ceramic turbine shattered at stock boost - 13psi.

i already posted what i know, 53mm t04e wheel is the biggest u should get in a ct26, even look on the ATS website they say the same thing themselves, their CT27 is exactly the same as the turbo I had, unless they also do something with the exhaust wheel but as i already pointed out, the ct26 exhaust wheel is 2mm oversized as it is, they cant go with a smaller wheel they can only replace it with a steel wheel which provides better durability, mine remained ceramic.

dude u have no idea what you are talkin about they dont just switch out parts they redo the whole turbo what part dont u understand they dont use nothin from the ct26 but the hosing the ct20b and the ct27 are all most the the same the ct27 hp is maxed out stock with no upgraded wasted gate at 350hp thats just bolting it on to your stock set up with no up graded internals and a stock wasted gate now think if u have a 50mm wasted gate upgrade the internals the down pipe has nothin to do with nothing but use a brek down pipe upgrade your injectors u will see 700hp i dont know how yall do it over there but we dont just ride turbos we redo the whole engine like i said u are making the turbo do all the work if u have stock internals and I DONT HAVE A CT26 i have a CT20B caldina 3sgte st215 the whole engine not just the turbo around here we pay to play ill go to ats right now and buy one of there 2.2 stroker kits and it will be faster than your gt4 i go to ats alot i know what there cars can do ive seen them in person and if that turbo sucks so much i guess not bad because they have cars out the zoo sittin out there shop they couldn't even get me in last week to do my exhaust oh and by the way they use a 46 trim wheel not a 50 whatever u keep tryin to say OH and the ct20b shattered at 13 psi thats bull crap because my ct20b is runnin 15 psi all day and i have someone on here that can back me up with that....ask easternpiro1 hes runnin the same engine i am

what are you on about?

yes the t04e wheel comes with 2 options a 46 trim and a 50 trim, 50 trim is the one i had, it's 46mm inducer, the compressor housing is machined to accept the larger wheel. the stock ct26 compressor wheel only has a 42mm inducer. for comparison the stock ct20b has a 48mm inducer, so both the 46 and the 50 trim upgrades flow less than a ct20b.

sound like you need to go here and learn what trim and inducer and exducer means before you run your mouth.

as taken from atsracing.net

Finally a 300rwhp CT26 upgrade. So different from other CT26 upgrades we had to call it the CT27. ATS Racing machines not only the compressor side of the turbocharger to fit a T04E compressor wheel, but also performs CNC operations on the exhaust housing that are dyno proven to increase flow.

I wasn't aware of of any machining to the exhaust side, but the turbine wheel has a 52mm exducer, it's already oversized, it's only 50mm in the ct20b.

and you make no sense about flowing 350hp into stock pistons and fuel, as for one even the upgraded t04e wheel is slightly smaller than the standard ct20b compressor, so it's flowing less air at the same boost, and two didn't you know the st205 has 540cc injectors and is mapped to 18psi? ofcourse you didn't.

and yeah the turbo does do most all of the work on a low compression turbo engine, go take your turbo off and go for a drive and you'll see.

also your logic fails, you have a st215 swap and run 15psi and haven't had a problem yet, i have a genuine st205 and somehow your swapped celica has something to do with the condition of my former oem turbo?

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 4, 2011 - 5:42 PM

[delusionz]

berk pipe and injectors 700hp are you kidding?

No CT will ever flow more enough for over 400hp.

400hp in itself would be on a tip top condition engine, with way over 20psi with a better anti knock fuel than pump gas (ie race gas, pure ethanol, or pump gas with water/meth injection) and even then 400hp would be a miracle, over 20psi would put any CT out of it's efficiency range.

[Darkchylde]

Alright fellas, play nice. I know everyone has their preference. From the way things are sounding I will be trying to get a Ct 20b. Both of you are essentially telling me to do the same just from different sides of the fence. Thank you all for your time and consideration on this subject. I will be posting a WTB in the Buying and Selling forums, I'll keep you all posted.

[easternpiro1]

i like this darkchylde guy classy guy.

and delusionz is right brenton, a CT20B will not make 700 with fuel and a berk pipe. its too small. needs MOAR air. HOWEVER you can get to 330ish on the ct20b with good fuel and a tune. just be careful. if you plan on boosting the fire out of your ct20b, get some water meth to be safe!


cheers! good discussion!

[brenton1919]

i have unhooked my turbo off of my engine and kept up with a 08 350z ........................dyno from atsracing on a stock block with 22PSI 22PSI 22PSI

ATS CT27 250-370 horsepower ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP ON BOLT ON SET UP ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP JDM STOCK LONG BLOCK SET UP STOCK STOCK DO U KNOW WHAT THE WORD STOCK MEANS


Mods on test car: JDM stock long block, Greddy Intercooler, KO 3" TKO exhaust, ATS Tuned Rom set for 550cc injectors, 550cc injectors, Walbro Fuel Pump, K&N style intake.........22 PSI.................................like i said if u can READ a built motor! with piston injectors cams 3" berk down pipe will get u over 500hp i dont think u have even seen a car with 300hp ............ATS CT27 BLOT ON KIT do u know what BLOT ON MEANS! ....3" exhaust, downpipe, aftermarket intake, and boost controller are highly recommended. Dyno results range from 300 flywheel horsepower at 16psi with primary catalytic converter in place to 330 horsepower at 17psi with 3" downpipe. Choose the dual map option (+$50) to run race gas and up to 19psi and 350 horsepower<===ct27 on a bolt kit...............have u ever built a engine when u upgrade stuff it tends idk to want to go faster wen your engine does more work than the turbo WHEN YOU HAVE A BUILT ENGINE the freaking size of the turbine doesn't matter if u didn't know all a turbo does is blow air in the engine u can blow all the air in the engine u want but if u dont have good internals upgraded INJECTORS your not going anywhere but boom the more psi is just how much air is in your engine and how fast its going threw i have cars that will put your little gt4 to shame non turbo itsnt that funny.. a ct27 turbo runs stock boost a 10 psi and to add on top of all this my friend has a ats ct27 turbo on his 3sgte pushing 400+ at 23 psi im not just runnin my mouth ive seen the turbo work in real life real time ive been to ats ive seen this turbo more times than any of u guys andu keep sayin trim trim trim trim dude ontill you are running 800hp and have a huge t4 turbo a 50 trim really doesn't matter u want a smaller trim for better spool time and less lag low compression high compression it dont matter u can make both of them go fast with out a turbo so since u have no idea what a engine does lets break down the 3sgte reallllyy reallly fast and see how it would run without a turbo ohhh wait they made a engine just like it what is it called hmmmm letttt me think a beamsssss 3sge ohhhh yeahhh that engine wow its a high compression engine yesss guess why because it doesn't have a turbo on it so i wonder how fast a 3sgte will be without a turbo on it hmm oh wait i know this one because ive done it before as fast as a beams that little turbo u have on your car guess what it only adds about 70hp maybe 60hp haha what did u really think a stock turbo ct20b ct26 adds a 150hp yeah never hmm where does all the power come from hmm i dont know maybe the engine ive never heard someone say a stock turbo puts out more horse power than the engine ITS STOCK! the turbo just helps the engine go faster thats why when u want to go faster what do u do u upgrade your internals thennnnn u up grade your turbo so it can keep up with the new horse power u just added to your engine its ohh wait lets upgrade the turbo then the engine haha u wont have a engine to upgrade because WHY! its going to go booom so if u can understand what im saying you can make your engine go faster without upgrading the turbo the turbo in this case is the help thats all im sure u can build the 3sgte engine to 500hp without a turbo easy then put a turbo on to get u up in the 700's maybe low 800s...and therefore i know u dont know what u are talking about because u said u cant take the ct20b pass 13psi when me and easternpiro are both runnin are ct20b on 15psi and he plans on taking his up past 15psi

i like this darkchylde guy classy guy.

and delusionz is right brenton, a CT20B will not make 700 with fuel and a berk pipe. its too small. needs MOAR air. HOWEVER you can get to 330ish on the ct20b with good fuel and a tune. just be careful. if you plan on boosting the fire out of your ct20b, get some water meth to be safe!


cheers! good discussion!

no he didn't read it right i said a built engine but i have heard the ct20b with some extra help can get u over 400+

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 4, 2011 - 10:53 PM

[Darkchylde]

'preciate it 'piro. If you come to a decision on that spare you have, hit me up. I understand your want/concern for keeping a spare, or just checking to make sure your current setup is solid.

By the way I am trying to get this and a few other niceties done by June 10th for the Colt State Park meet, so if anyone reading this has the aforementioned turbo and coinciding injectors please hit me up. Thanks again guys and gals.

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 4, 2011 - 10:38 PM

[brenton1919]

Alright fellas, play nice. I know everyone has their preference. From the way things are sounding I will be trying to get a Ct 20b. Both of you are essentially telling me to do the same just from different sides of the fence. Thank you all for your time and consideration on this subject. I will be posting a WTB in the Buying and Selling forums, I'll keep you all posted.

theres a ct20b on ebay for 600 i think might want to check that out

[Darkchylde]

thanks brenton, Turbo found!!!!! jump for joy hey do you know if these are the right injectors for this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...r%3Dy%26fvi%3D1

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 5, 2011 - 12:54 AM

[Darkchylde]

Well, found the turbo, and the injectors both should be here by Monday. Now for the Uego w/ IPhone capabilities and an EGT sensor. Time to message partz.net for gaskets and such. Thanks for the info and watchful eyes gentlemen, by the by if you own a 3sgte the guys over on mr2oc have a buttload of parts. I should have looked there first there are at least two ct 20b's and a few sets of injectors to say the least. Don't get me wrong I love 6gc and the community you guys are the greatest just sayin they gots maaaaaad parts Yo!

[lagos]

i have unhooked my turbo off of my engine and kept up with a 08 350z ........................dyno from atsracing on a stock block with 22PSI 22PSI 22PSI

ATS CT27 250-370 horsepower ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP ON BOLT ON SET UP ON A STOCK BOLT ON SET UP JDM STOCK LONG BLOCK SET UP STOCK STOCK DO U KNOW WHAT THE WORD STOCK MEANS


Mods on test car: JDM stock long block, Greddy Intercooler, KO 3" TKO exhaust, ATS Tuned Rom set for 550cc injectors, 550cc injectors, Walbro Fuel Pump, K&N style intake.........22 PSI.................................like i said if u can READ a built motor! with piston injectors cams 3" berk down pipe will get u over 500hp i dont think u have even seen a car with 300hp ............ATS CT27 BLOT ON KIT do u know what BLOT ON MEANS! ....3" exhaust, downpipe, aftermarket intake, and boost controller are highly recommended. Dyno results range from 300 flywheel horsepower at 16psi with primary catalytic converter in place to 330 horsepower at 17psi with 3" downpipe. Choose the dual map option (+$50) to run race gas and up to 19psi and 350 horsepower<===ct27 on a bolt kit...............have u ever built a engine when u upgrade stuff it tends idk to want to go faster wen your engine does more work than the turbo WHEN YOU HAVE A BUILT ENGINE the freaking size of the turbine doesn't matter if u didn't know all a turbo does is blow air in the engine u can blow all the air in the engine u want but if u dont have good internals upgraded INJECTORS your not going anywhere but boom the more psi is just how much air is in your engine and how fast its going threw i have cars that will put your little gt4 to shame non turbo itsnt that funny.. a ct27 turbo runs stock boost a 10 psi and to add on top of all this my friend has a ats ct27 turbo on his 3sgte pushing 400+ at 23 psi im not just runnin my mouth ive seen the turbo work in real life real time ive been to ats ive seen this turbo more times than any of u guys andu keep sayin trim trim trim trim dude ontill you are running 800hp and have a huge t4 turbo a 50 trim really doesn't matter u want a smaller trim for better spool time and less lag low compression high compression it dont matter u can make both of them go fast with out a turbo so since u have no idea what a engine does lets break down the 3sgte reallllyy reallly fast and see how it would run without a turbo ohhh wait they made a engine just like it what is it called hmmmm letttt me think a beamsssss 3sge ohhhh yeahhh that engine wow its a high compression engine yesss guess why because it doesn't have a turbo on it so i wonder how fast a 3sgte will be without a turbo on it hmm oh wait i know this one because ive done it before as fast as a beams that little turbo u have on your car guess what it only adds about 70hp maybe 60hp haha what did u really think a stock turbo ct20b ct26 adds a 150hp yeah never hmm where does all the power come from hmm i dont know maybe the engine ive never heard someone say a stock turbo puts out more horse power than the engine ITS STOCK! the turbo just helps the engine go faster thats why when u want to go faster what do u do u upgrade your internals thennnnn u up grade your turbo so it can keep up with the new horse power u just added to your engine its ohh wait lets upgrade the turbo then the engine haha u wont have a engine to upgrade because WHY! its going to go booom so if u can understand what im saying you can make your engine go faster without upgrading the turbo the turbo in this case is the help thats all im sure u can build the 3sgte engine to 500hp without a turbo easy then put a turbo on to get u up in the 700's maybe low 800s...and therefore i know u dont know what u are talking about because u said u cant take the ct20b pass 13psi when me and easternpiro are both runnin are ct20b on 15psi and he plans on taking his up past 15psi

If you're going to argue with people over the internet, then at least learn to use a period and a comma. Why? Because no one here can understand a single thing you just typed.

[brenton1919]

lmfao i didn't know i had a high school english teacher on here

Well, found the turbo, and the injectors both should be here by Monday. Now for the Uego w/ IPhone capabilities and an EGT sensor. Time to message partz.net for gaskets and such. Thanks for the info and watchful eyes gentlemen, by the by if you own a 3sgte the guys over on mr2oc have a buttload of parts. I should have looked there first there are at least two ct 20b's and a few sets of injectors to say the least. Don't get me wrong I love 6gc and the community you guys are the greatest just sayin they gots maaaaaad parts Yo!

haha yeah that why i go to ats to find all the parts i need..........and did u find out if the gen 2 has side feed injectors ?

[korban]

They should fit, and would be the same flow as factory ST205 injectors, should be good for approx 300hp. Most people seem to use SARD 800's, to go further.

[brenton1919]

They should fit, and would be the same flow as factory ST205 injectors, should be good for approx 300hp. Most people seem to use SARD 800's, to go further.

but st205 injectors are top feed injectors he has a gen 2 i told him i dont know if a gen 2 engine has side feed injectors because i know for sure the sw20 has side feed injectors and they were made at the same time but i was wondering my self does a gen 2 have side feed injectors ?

[presure2]

brenton, brent both 2nd and 3rd gen have side feed injectors.
and deliusions, both of you guys need to stop.
if you cant act like adults, and debate the diffrences between the 20b, 26 and 27, ill just ban you both, i dont have time for this crap.

thread re-opened.

no chances, so dont push it.

art, get a 20b, preferably a WRC version if you can.

if you want a 1 year warranty, and prefer a remanufactured turbo, get the ct-27.

unlike these 2 guys, who just have hearsay and no direct experience with the ct-27, i have had both turbos. they are virtually identical as far as performance.

i actually have my old '27 in the garage, needs a new thrust bearing after 5 years of beating the hell out of it.

[easternpiro1]

brenton, brent both 2nd and 3rd gen have side feed injectors.
and deliusions, both of you guys need to stop.
if you cant act like adults, and debate the diffrences between the 20b, 26 and 27, ill just ban you both, i dont have time for this crap.

thread re-opened.

no chances, so dont push it.

art, get a 20b, preferably a WRC version if you can.

if you want a 1 year warranty, and prefer a remanufactured turbo, get the ct-27.

unlike these 2 guys, who just have hearsay and no direct experience with the ct-27, i have had both turbos. they are virtually identical as far as performance.

i actually have my old '27 in the garage, needs a new thrust bearing after 5 years of beating the hell out of it.

manny. i swear i want to shake your hand in person! i was JUST bout to beg you not to close this thread before it wound up getting closed, and just about to beg you to open it up befor it got opened! lol.


but what do you think about the 20b? in order for the blades to shatter i imagine you would have to be doing double what toyota designed it for right? (i assume this b/c toyota seems to build things to be reliable)

[brenton1919]

Iiiiii yessss I'm sorry guys its all good in the 6gc hood ....... and deliusions that's some good info right there sry man. I guess we are just two different gear heads that's all

[Darkchylde]

Thanks Manny, just got a 20B shipped over from PR. I also got some 540's coming.

I opened another thread in the mean time is there a way to migrate it.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=79257

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 8, 2011 - 6:42 PM

[delusionz]

Sorry guys, It was already gone a bit too far and then I completely pushed it off the edge.

Sorry Brent

[brenton1919]

Sorry guys, It was already gone a bit too far and then I completely pushed it off the edge.

Sorry Brent

its all gud

[delusionz]

this is what we call an upgraded ct26 or a ct26/t04e hybrid turbo

it's a ct26 housing, both sides, the compressor housing is machined to accept a t04e 46mm compressor, this is fitted to the shaft and whole rotating assembly balanced on a machine, and then shoved back into the 185 turbo. An ST205 10psi actuator is added and away u go.

The end result is really crap compared to a ct20b. (my fault for assuming ATS does it the same way)



This post has been edited by delusionz: May 9, 2011 - 4:56 AM

[delusionz]

I found another pic of a T04e upgraded CT26 which is way different to mine next to a regular CT26

the t04e one on the left has 7 blades, the regular one on the right has 5 blades, mine only has 6??



This post has been edited by delusionz: May 9, 2011 - 4:55 AM

[delusionz]

And here is Darkchyld's CT20b showing 5 blades

[delusionz]

CT20b we know is 48mm
CT26 is 42mm
Mine apparently is 46mm

What is that monster 7 blade one then?

[delusionz]

And here you can see ATS racing CT27 turbos with 6 blades just like mine



So now what?

If mine was just like the ATS racing ones why did it lag until 4000 and then make less power than the ct20b anyways?

In the UK Fensport make a Stage 1 CT26 which is supposedly the same upgrade as the CT27, some guys on GT4OC with ST205's using them also complain of the same things I did, Lag, poor wastegate control, less power, not spoolup until 4000, etc. They said the experience is less than exciting which quite frankly, remembering my old CT20b, I'd agree.


This post has been edited by delusionz: May 9, 2011 - 5:09 AM

[brenton1919]

CT20b we know is 48mm
CT26 is 42mm
Mine apparently is 46mm

What is that monster 7 blade one then?

yep your right ats uses a 46mm trim on there turbos as well, as far everything else i know the boi with the mr2's love them, and that 7 blade i hear its a ct26 from a supra with a 60mm trim in it i dont know that for sure but ive heard the boi's with those supra's are doing that how.....i have no idea if anyone knows i would like to know

[presure2]

the key to the 27 is the exhaust side work.
thats why the ct27 is superior to just a compressor upgrade.

[delusionz]

thanks presure2, the exhaust side on a 26 is slightly larger than a 20b, i was told there was no point doing any machining or changing the wheel though so what's the secret?

and also our ct20b and ct26 turbos already started with a jdm ceramic turbine wheels which should have less lag to begin with

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 9, 2011 - 6:13 AM

[brenton1919]

[quote name='delusionz' date='May 9, 2011 - 5:53 AM' post='915482']
here some info from one of the guys who make the ats ct27 turbo.......................The CT27 at 20 psi on e85 will get you right about 300whp. However the E85 is going to require some larger injectors and a way to run them. A rom tune could be setup to run E85 using 75-80lb injectors, but the car would be too rich to run on gasoline. A "dual tune" for injectors that size is not really an option either.

The biggest injectors I can tune the rom tune for are 550's plus about 10% more using the ATS FPR. That's only enough fuel to support about 260whp at sea level (or 300whp at your altitude), that's only enough fuel for about 17 psi on a CT27 and high octane pump gas would also support that power level, so the E85 becomes redundant.

If you are planning on a stand-alone ECU, or 100% e85 usage I can come up with a solution.

Aaron
__________________
http://www.atsracing.net

JDM SWAPS in stock HURRY for FREE LSD UPGRADE
606rwhp ATS 2.2 MR2

here's some more info..Owners with well maintained cars are getting 80k+ miles out of CT27's. The Toyota turbos do not have the large bearings that you are used to with your diesel applications, plus I think the turbo gets accelerated and decelerated more with a gas motor, hence the shorter lifespan.

......just a little bit not really on the spec side tho nobody really knows how they make there turbo's as far as all spec go just some of the key parts the main thing is that a ct27 was made to get up a mr2 up around 300hp to 350hp stock. are engines come with a little more power than the sw20. well yalls 3rd gen and my 4th gen. so just think of the ct27 as a upgraded stock turbo, nothin serious. because the sw20 motor comes with around 225hp 230hp if i am right maybe less and that car is lighter than our celica. so the ct27 is a nice STOCK! upgrade but yes if u want more power better flow upgrading to gt35r turbo would be better.

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 9, 2011 - 7:00 AM

[delusionz]

i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000

[brenton1919]

i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000

on a mr2 forum one guy said the slap in the face lol for a ct27 for him was 2500.... a few others said 4000 .... some said great not much lag, others said hella lag ... i know my ct20b going from 3rd to 4th is bam right there but going from 4th to 5th mannnn it feelll like im waitin for new years lol... but once it kicks in im gone...................which is why i love my srt-4 no lag at all every gear is hold on gear.....

[delusionz]

http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/turbo.htm

There are very few options (at least in the USA) for changing the turbine housing or wheel. The single entry CT-26 turbine is easily available, but it does not bolt to the stock MR2 turbo elbow, so serious modifications are required to use it. The most widely available alternative is to clip the turbine wheel. Clipping the wheel does reduce its ability to extract energy from the exhaust, but since there is so much exhaust at the higher RPMs where the stock turbine wheel chokes the engine, clipping is a reasonable choice. Dyno runs with a 12 degree clip have shown ~15 rwhp improvements in peak horsepower and moved the choke point from around 5.5K to 6K RPMs. There is a slight increase in turbo lag, but this can be kept to a minimum if the compressor wheel is kept to a modest size (since there is really no need to go with a large compressor wheel as we determined in the 3S-GTE turbo sizing primer).

At the current time, my suggestion for a twin entry CT-26 upgrade is to add a TO4E-46 trim compressor wheel and perform a 15 degree clip on the turbine wheel. Those who have ceramic turbine wheels (only used in Japanese spec 3S-GTEs) cannot clip due to the brittleness of the material, but the smaller ceramic turbine is already a little less restrictive than the metal one and naturally supports about 10 rwhp more that its unclipped sibling.

[delusionz]

This what ATS do? Clip the USDM steel exhaust wheel? But mine had ceramic so can't be clipped, but still less restrictive than the steel anyways

So either way you look at it, What I had with the T04E-46 is pretty standard procedure, and with the JDM ceramic turbine being comparable to a clipped steel wheel (technically will mean mine has less lag at the cost of 5hp??) It seems my CT26 upgrade turbo isnt far off the ATS 27 after all.

This being the case I can say better off with the CT20b??? 1500rpm earlier spool, 4wheel tyre smoking punch in the mid range, just as good up top?

[brenton1919]

This what ATS do? Clip the USDM steel exhaust wheel? But mine had ceramic so can't be clipped, but still less restrictive than the steel anyways

So either way you look at it, What I had with the T04E-46 is pretty standard procedure, and with the JDM ceramic turbine being comparable to a clipped steel wheel (technically will mean mine has less lag at the cost of 5hp??) It seems my CT26 upgrade turbo isnt far off the ATS 27 after all.

This being the case I can say better off with the CT20b??? 1500rpm earlier spool, 4wheel tyre smoking punch in the mid range, just as good up top?

yeah I think people on your side of the world your upgraded ct26 is better than over here. Just because america is slow at everything we do lol. But ats has a couple of tech's... nobody quote me on this lol but I think there from japan....... so they might have some inside info on things....... but if u ever come over here I would say ats would be the best place to take your 3sgte.. .... or to dr tweak I really know of anybody else that is as gud with these engines then them over here...... its all they do everyday

[korban]

i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000

FYI My CT20b is making 7psi at 3000, 11psi at 3500, 12psi at 4750

[delusionz]

You get a kick at 3000 though, i didn't get a kick until 4000

CT20b throttle response is alot better too, the exhaust wheel is lazy on a ct26

[delusionz]

i vividly remember the limited days i had with a ct20b, i'd go around a corner from really low revs and if i had my foot anywhere past half way, once the tacho needle moved past 2800 the engine would just suddenly go mental and the rear wheels would slide sideways, but it was really nice to drive too in low revs, totally effortless.

then this ct26 (jdm ceramic)/t04e-46 i had after that, everything was smooth but gutless down low, there was never enough boost to even try to go fast until 3500, and then at 4000 it made a very smooth linear transition into power, didnt make good power until 5000 and then between 5000 and 7000 it totally haulled ass, but its hard to compare the top end because the ct20b plateaus at 6000, but its very quick anyways at those revs

[delusionz]

In my opinion to best use a CT26/T04e-46 hybrid turbo you need a 3s-gte stroked to 2.2 thats still capable of revving to 7000.

In that case a ct20b would be no good since it would plateau alot earlier than 6000 and drop off by 7000, but the ct26 rear housing since it contains a larger exhaust wheel would help solve that.

But then you could make a CT26 rear housing/CT20b front housing hybrid which could be even better than machining a ct26 for a t04e-46 wheel since the ct20b already has a 48mm.

Or possibly even a CT20b rear housing and CT26/T04e-46 front housing for supercharger like performance on a 2L

[brenton1919]

i wanna know what spoolup is like on CT27.

Car gives u a slap in the face somewhere between 2500 and 3000 on a CT20b

On the CT26/T04E 46mm I had, it made a lazy transition into power at 4000 and achieving 18psi by 5000. with only 12psi by 4000, 10 psi around 3000, and barely 3psi under 3000

FYI My CT20b is making 7psi at 3000, 11psi at 3500, 12psi at 4750

mine is 13psi at 3000 and 15psi the rest of the way... i think i need a different fuel pump because for some reason going from 3rd to 4th now its like 1 2 3 go i need to find the problem its killing my car

This post has been edited by brenton1919: May 10, 2011 - 7:46 PM

[delusionz]

mine is 13psi at 3000 and 15psi the rest of the way...

see thats what a 20b should be like on a 2L 3S-GTE, if you had AWD or RWD that kick right there puts you sideways if your not careful. I assume in your FWD it gives you instant torque steer if you dont lift off the throttle by 3000?

[brenton1919]

mine is 13psi at 3000 and 15psi the rest of the way...

see thats what a 20b should be like on a 2L 3S-GTE, if you had AWD or RWD that kick right there puts you sideways if your not careful. I assume in your FWD it gives you instant torque steer if you dont lift off the throttle by 3000?

yeah front wheel drive line changin right there... i have to lift off no choice

[Darkchylde]

LONG story short it is in but the waste gate is not returning to the full closed position. The actuator rod is to long, the steel of the plate to move the position of the actuator is too thin and keeps flexing. So while I had it in I bent the bracket that the actuator sits on (or so I thought), during that time I got incredible boost (compared to the 26) at about 50% of the Turbos max output according to my boost gauge. That output @ 50% was about 10-11 psi. Spool up was very smooth and quick, torque steer is off the map though (need an LSD, Be calling you soon Culp). Since then though the steel of the bracket and or it's holding plate has had a chance to relax again, sooooooooooooo... ...Tomorrow is another day. Tomorrow I will be either re-bending the rod to the specifications in how to, altering the bracket to allow for the rod length, or cutting and welding the rod to the proper length of I believe it is 7 3/8.

I have pictures and such but I refuse to post them until I am finished (it's bad luck IMO). I should be completely finished with the gremlins tomorrow.

[delusionz]

Congrats dude, I knew the difference would be incredible

if you have to just cut off some of that rod and weld the end back on, or possibly re-drill the hole where the little circlip is

didnt think there would be a difference since i have a ct20b actuator on a ct26 and theres no sign of any modification

[brenton1919]

[/quote] hey delusionz didn't u say it has he has to grind down on the down pipe? or the waste gate will hit it not allowing it to work right ?

[Darkchylde]

From the look of your profile pick Delusionz you have the GT-4 setup, I don't I have a FMIC instead of the top mount that you have, so I have to "clock" or rotate my compressor housing. When you do that you have to remove the waste gate actuator from the housing because it can either no longer operate at that angle or because of clearance issues with the hood and or coolant lines I believe. When you do this you have to make a bracket plate that is connected to the trans bolts, the spacing compared to that of the original mount point on the housing is shorter in distance than the original placement. Thusly you have to bend the actuator rod to a shorter overall length. That length being 7 + 3/4". Either my actuator rod is too long or the plate isn't rigid enough to withstand the movement. ( Again as before no sarcasm or condescension, IF you already knew this I was just trying to give an in depth explanation)

Brenton1919: I have checked the down pipe and measured the tolerances as well as removed my O2 sensor and visually inspected the movement of my waste gate. I peened the inside of the down pipe to insure that I had an extra 1/8" of room. 1" in from the edge of the flange is where the waste gate sits and it rises about 1 + 1/8" above the flange edge, so I have made extra sure that there are no clearance issue, thank you for the reminder though.(Same as above, no sarcasm, just information)

On a side note, I need to start using other forms of letting people know that I am just explaining, these side notes make me sound all sheepish. So raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwrrr, piss off and stuff!

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 11, 2011 - 12:23 AM

[delusionz]

hey delusionz didn't u say it has he has to grind down on the down pipe? or the waste gate will hit it not allowing it to work right ?

this is my experience with the reverse of what he's doing him st205 turbo on st185 motor, me st185 turbo on st205 motor.

So his should have already cleared fine, but as he's mentioned, he's checked all the clearance and grinded where necessary so that's all good.


Darkchyld: Yeah I didn't realise you clocked it, that explains the need to modify it you're correct there, so if you didnt clock it then it would line up yeah?

On inspection, if you clocked 180 deg CCW, you would have the wastegate actuator infront, then you could make a custom arm coming around the front which goes around and over the downpipe

[delusionz]

Had to grind the red bit here (on the downpipe not the turbo) to the left to make ST205 downpipe compatible to CT26

an ST205/CT20B flange goes on the same except some needs to be grinded where I put the red mark to the left on the flange so the wastegate doesnt get stuck, and theres a 7th hole for an extra stud which the 205/20b uses that the 185/26 does not.

And must use gasket to suit the turbo, not the downpipe!

This post has been edited by delusionz: May 11, 2011 - 12:44 AM

[Darkchylde]

Correct Delusionz< if I didn't "clock" it the fitment would be fine, and that would be one hell of an actuator rod. I believe there would still be issues with the push/pull electric fans though.(Not entirely sure about the fan thing though)

This post has been edited by Darkchylde: May 11, 2011 - 12:50 AM

[delusionz]

Well you wouldn't be able to use the heat shield thats for sure, you'd have to get a turbine beanie

[Darkchylde]

With that actuator rod yeah no heat shield. As much as I really do enjoy the tech talk, I actually should go to sleep. It may be 6:00 pm over there, but it's 2:00 here. So again Thanks to all and have a good evening.

[Darkchylde]

On a much better note I have new news on my old CT 26. The shop in Texas that I sent it to Turbochargers.com, formerly Texas rebuild as you know informed me that my turbine wheels were shot so to speak, that was the kick off to this whole thing, right. Well after informing them that I was just going to buy another turbo, I told them to do the seal kit and put it back together. I figured that I could just list it for $100 or something as "needs turbine wheels" or something to try and recoup a very little dough. Well that was not the case, their resident turbo tech Mark was like "I can't let this thing leave here in that condition", took it upon himself to try to shape and balance the wheels to get them back to a reliably operable state. He somehow accomplished this magnificent feat, But as I was talking to Ralph (owner or partner I am guessing, by the way he represented himself), we got to talking about his twin turbo 2jz Lexus, which is running twin Big 16's. Well Mark then took it upon himself to cut my compressor housing and replace my turbine wheels with that of the Big 16 variety (45.5mm). As if that was not enough Mark then balanced the whole thing out again and refinished the housing completely. I got a message from Ralph that my UEGO and EGT were on their way as well as my turbo, that is when I was told all of the other work occured. To my complete astonishment and delight all that extra work cost me... c'mon guess, you'll never guess. $300...nay, $200...nay, $100...nay, $50...P'shaw...............$0, That's right true believers $0 MotherF$%^in dollars. These guys went above and beyond, to accommodate me while I figured out what I wanted to do with my old turbo and then completely rebuilt and upgraded it for FREE, minus the price of the seal kit that I asked them to do. I was referred to them by a friend of mine, who has an all-wheel 94 Eclipse. He also does not have a bad thing in the world to say about these guys, The do all the machining in house, They even cut Some of their own turbine wheels out of solid blocks of aluminum, for custom applications, have a deal with AEM (Said they would match or beat anyone's price). Check them out @

http://www.turbochargers.com/

These guys are the sh!t.